azzar0

Just crossed the 100k miles mark...

I bought my '98 Boxster in 2007. It came with 16" wheels - I replaced them with 18" wheels and Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 Max Summer Performance tires. Replaced front and rear brake pads and sensors, painted calipers red, replaced shift knob with short shift silver / black, added spoiler button, garage door opener button, replaced convertible top transmissions. I did the 60k miles maintenance - oil change, fuel filter, spark plugs, polyrib belt, cleaned radiators, replaced air and cabin filters. Then I replaced all amber lights with LED lights and clear side markers, euro LED clear rear lights, and added Xenon lights (6k). Did the 75k maintenance, repalced parking brake switch, replaced hinge on the console, replaced all 4 O2 sensors, and just completed 100k maintenance (changed spark plugs, coil packs, air filter). Shortly after 99,000 miles the car started hesitating. Loren suggested a new MAF sensor - I replaced it and the car runs great again.

Next spring I am planning on replacing the water pump / thermostat (just in case) and take a look at the suspensions, tie rod, bushings, etc.

Thanks Loren!

It seems the MAF sensor was going bad. I replaced spark plugs and coil packs (needed to, I had over 30k miles on the spark plugs and 100k, current milage, on the coil packs) - that made a small difference but did not fix the problem. I ran without the MAF for a couple of days and, for the most part, things were OK. I ordered a new MAF sensor and put it in, and so far (70 miles later) the car runs smooth, there is no hesitation, and no CEL light on.

Thanks again.

Hello,

I noticed that lately my '98 Boxster started hesitating, especially at high RPM. I couldn't get it over 5500 RPM in 3rd gear, for instance.

I replaced the spark plugs and it has the same issue. If I give it gas it almost chokes and backfires. I don't have the check engine light on. Idle is fine.

I sprayed water on the coil packs while idling to see if one of them has a leak or something - I didn't notice a fluctuation in idle speed...

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance

I took my 98 Boxster with (now) 77K miles on a few long trips. Last trip was in September, when I went Ohio to Vermont, then back from Vermont through Philadelphia to Ohio. More than 2000 miles in less than a week. The car ran like a champ, no problems whatsoever. I also drove 3 times Ohio - Philly round trips in the past, no problems at all and I am planning another long trip next weekend :)

Drive away and enjoy it. Hope you have good weather

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7062

It's a bit uncomfortable with the car on jacks but it's definitely doable.

Good Luck!

Awesome thread,

Azzar0,

Congtrats on doing the 60k service yourself. That is very cool. I have done almost all the work on my car as well. (except where I needed a lift..I like you do not like being enderneath the car on jacks.) I took my rear bumper off yesterday just to see how it comes off lol!

I was able to clean everything and polish up my pretty stainless Fabspeed mufflers (I swear the car is faster with shiny mufflers :D .)

If anyone in the L.A. area has a DIY planned and would like some help I would be glad to offer my assistance. I would really like to do a clutch job with someone and see that process.

Congrats on your success and that money you saved is sweet indeed!! :clapping:

:cheers:

Hi Phillipj,

How did you remove the rear bumper? Do you have a link for a DYI? Just curious, much like you I'd probably do it just for the heck of it :)

azzar0:

Excellent work, excellent industriousness, and excellent results! :clapping:

Thanks for sharing your work and the links!

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice :)

I am getting ready to do my 75K maintenance tomorrow. Changing air filter, cabin filter, and oil. Last time I had the car up on jacks but I may try to get the oil change without lifting the car up or just lift it on one side to get to the bolt and lower it and let it drain.

The dealer quoted me $707 for this. I spent less than $100 in parts and oil...

Hi Everyone!

I'm totally stoked about the Boxster I bought:

2001 Boxster S

Arctic silver metallic/black cloth top

Black leather interior

58,000 miles

Smoooooth...

Anyway, my dilemma is that I want to get a quality outdoor cover, and I think I found one. Before I order it, I need to know if my car is fitted with an Aerokit. Being a "newb", I don't have a clue, and the photos I looked at online didn't help. Will any of you fine Porsche-o-philes take a minute to check out my Boxster pic and tell me whether I need the cover that fits the aerokit or not?

Love the site- it's very helpful, and you folks all seem very kind and knowledgable. I look forward to being a part of the Porsche-owner community!

See you on the road,

Fudgie

As Loren said.

I wanted to add that you might have the aerokit side skirts, but I can't tell from your picture. If you had a side view of the car we'd be able to tell.

Spark Plugs DIY:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7059

I am assuming that you are correct, that the wheels you have in hand are 18x10 ET42. I am also assuming that in order to fit your Boxster, you need ET47.

The bottom line, no matter what on-line calculator you use, or who you talk to, you can't make your ET42 wheels into ET47 wheels. You'd actually have to machine 5mm off of the mounting surface of your ET42 wheel to get ET47 (and that is definitely not recommended!). Following the simple logic first proposed by jmatta in an early post: If your tires were rubbing on the outside to begin with, and you added a wheel spacer to "push them out," then you just made the situation worse.

I think where people can get confused is in the symantics of "adding" a spacer. For instance, it's incorrect to think that if you "add" a 5mm spacer, you should "add" 5mm to ET42 and "get" ET47. If you're still not convinced, what is your offset if you "add" a 42mm spacer to your rear axle and use your ET42 wheel? Is it ET42 + 42 = ET84? (No, it's ET0, or zero offset.) Also, I think that calculator in the link uses some potentially confusing terms, like "extend," which I think may have burned you.

--Brian

Interesting. So bare with me... Again, I am not arguing, nor am I questioning your logic, I am just trying to understand the complexity of the offset issue. If my understanding is correct, the definition of a wheel offset is the distance between the center of the wheel and the outer edge of the wheel, where the center of the wheel represents ET0. If the offset is negative than you would need to 'shave' the wheel in order to fit (because you are too close to the strut housing). If the offset is positive, then you would add a spacer to fit - is this correct? If the wheel says ET42, doesn't that imply a positive offset? If it was a negative offset shouldn't it be marked as ET -42? Following the notation logic, since you are 42 mm out and you need to be 47 mm out, doesn't it follow that you would need to add 5mm in order to accomplish that offset?

I think the confusion is between negative and positive offsets. It appears that most people I've talked to assume a positive offset whereas you and jmatta assume a negative one.

Also, if it was truly an offset issue, wouldn't I see this problem on BOTH sides? It is clearly happening only on the left side, not at all on the right side. Upon close inspection, I was able to confirm that the right fender was already rolled (the inner lip is tucked in) while the left fender has not been rolled (the inner lip is sticking out). My suspicion is that the left fender was replaced at some point in time, hence the difference; which would, in turn, explain the issue.

With that said, I am more confused than ever :huh:

Thank you for your input and patience

The wheel in this case is ET42, which is a positive offset of 42mm. Adding a 5mm spacer makes the effective offset 37mm, not 47mm, and obviously aggravated the fender rubbing condition in this case. If you need ET47, you can't get there with ET42 wheels. Simple drawing and definitions here, at tirerack.com.

--Brian

Hi Brian,

I used this wheel offset calculator, in addition to talking to various other dealers and shops:

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

The offset calculator came back with the same results - EXTEND the wheels out 5 mm

I am going to a Porsche clinic this Saturday and I'll ask my mechanic again about the details...

I like the baseball bat technique....

Please post pictures and video if possible :rolleyes:

Just like JMatta said - make sure you heat the paint (with heating gun / hair dryer), then slowly roll the bat and push the lip in. Google "fender rolling" and you'll even see some videos on how to do it (as well as how not to do it :>)

Are you sure these wheels have a positive offset of 42? If so, they should have been rubbing the inside of the wheel wells, not the outside. I have 18 x 10's on the rear of my '02 S with an offset of 47...I am tight on the inside, but certainly not on the outside.

Your statements are confusing to me...

Yes, I am sure. I am not trying to confuse you :rolleyes:

The difference is that your car is an 02S while mine is a 98 base. I believe later and S models have bigger wheel wells to accomodate larger wheels, that's why you're not seeing an issue with the outside. My wheels are tight on the inside too, but not enough to cause a problem.

:renntech:

I'd be inclined to get it rolled professionaly. There is something just not right about bending the metal on a Boxster with a "rod".

You must really love those wheels to go through that.

I am thinking about bringing the car to a shop to have them do it. The basic principle, however, is the same. Something pushes the lip inward; whether that something is a baseball bat or a roller dictates how smooth the surface and the overall lip looks when completed. You still have to apply heat to the paint (so that it doesn't crack), regardless of which approach you take. Aesthetics are not an issue, in my opinion, because you couldn't notice imperfections (should there be any) tucked under the fender.

In any event, I only pushed in very very little, not the entire fender. I will talk to a couple of shops and see exactly how they do it and if the price is right I might have them do it.

For a 986 Boxster - rear wheels that are 18 x 10" wide need a 47 mm offset. If you have added a 5 mm spacer (and longer wheel bolts) then your offset is correct.

Thank You Loren, for validating the offset. Yes, the kit came with GT3 (longer) bolts with red sleeves.

If you were already hitting the out fender lip, why would you put on spacers? Your wheels are the wrong offset already. You can probably remedy the problem by removing the spacers and adding more negative camber, though it will increase tire wear.

Perhaps I don't understand your statement - the correct offset for 10" rear wheels is 47 - 48, as Mike stated. That is POSITIVE offset, not negative. So, since my wheels have a 42 offset, adding 5 mm makes it 47. I am not talking about camber, that I agree that it should be negative, but the actual wheel offset. In any event, I had talked to my local Porsche dealer, TireRack, and a couple of other shops before I ordered spacers, to make sure I end up with the correct value. They all told me the same thing - 5 mm spacers.

I don't know much about wheel offsets, and I am the first to admit it, therefore I ask those who know. Please explain why the wheels have the wrong offset, I would like to know. If anything I can go back and question the dealer, should you have a valid explanation.

Thank You.

For those of you who are interested - the answer, aparently, is fender rolling. It is basically a procedure that pushes the inner fender lip inward, thus creating more room for the tire. My neighboor, who knows everything about everything, immediately showed me why it rubs on the left and not on the right - the lip on the right side is not flat but bent upwards, whereas the left fender lip was horizontal. Long story short I used a rod to push the lip in a little bit, took the car out for a drive and it certainly diminished the rubbing, significantly. It still rubs if I go over big bumps (huge ones) - I may need to further roll the fenders (or take the car to a body shop, they have a special tool for rolling). The tool can also be rented from various sites on the internet, but a good ol' baseball bat works just fine if you heat up the paint and do it slowly...

Anyway, mystery solved!

Thanks all for your suggestions.

47mm to 48mm is the ideal offset for a 10" rear on a 986.

Right, which is why I added the spacers. So now the offset is 47 (42 + 5).

Hello,

I recently installed 18" wheels on my Boxster (MY98 base). They are 18x8 et 50 front and 18x10 et 42 rear with Michelin Pilot Sport PS2s. I noticed that in certain circumstances, when I go over bumps at high speeds ( >70 MPH), although sometimes if the bump is big enough it happens even at low speeds, the left rear tire touches the top of the fender. I've had the new wheels installed for about a month and I put about 500 miles on them. The left rear tire has a mark on the outer edge from where it touches. It is not deep, but certainly noticeable. When I first heard the noise I ordered a 5mm spacer kit for the rear wheels. I got the kit and installed the spacers, but the tire still touches. Since it is only the left rear tire, I doubt that it has something to do with the offset or the size, otherwise the right wheel would show the same symptoms. Now I am thinking maybe it is the left rear suspension? Could it be on its way out? I've had the car for about 2 years, and it now has 76K miles on it. I do not know if any suspension work was done on the car - I doubt it.

Is it possible that I might need to replace the suspension? What tests can I run to better determine the state of the suspension and/or the cause of the rubber hitting the fender?

Thank You in advance for all your help.

Edit - I mistyped in the title and put right instead of left. It is the LEFT (driver) rear tire that is touching.

For what it's worth, I run 18x8 et 50 front and 18x10 et 47 rear on my '02 S without issue (car is lowered).

I just put 18x8 et 50 front and 18x10 et 42 rear on my '98 base. (with Michelin Pilot Sport PS2s).

I had to tie the hand brake cables to the longitudinal axle (as per Porsche's bulletin) as it was touching the rear tires - did you have to do that too on your '02 S?

Yes, noticed it immediately. I used some heavy duty black cable ties to pull them to the control arm...problem solved.

soopster, I think if you looks around, you can get Carrera lightweights (replicas) for less than than that (made in Italy).

One source that comes to mind is Wheel Dynamics.

I don't want to hijack this post, but this is relevant to this discussion, I think.

I noticed that at high speeds, if I go over bumps, I hear a 'rubbing' noise from the back. I am assuming it's the tires hitting the shock plate, but I am not sure. This only happens at high speeds (over 75MPH) and bumpy roads. The noise only lasts a fraction of a second and I only heard it twice in ~ 100 miles with the new wheels / tires.

Since my rear offset is 42, that means that the height of the tire is less than a 47 offset, and sightly wider. According to Porsche all Boxsters '98 - '04 can 'wear' 18x10 in the rear, as long as the parking brake cable is tied up.

Should I be worried about the tires touching the plates (even though it doesn't happen often enough)?

Should I get spacers? If so, what size? I went with a 42 offset to make sure that I have more room vertically and I really don't want to push the tires out any more than they are...

What are my options?

Thanks!

For what it's worth, I run 18x8 et 50 front and 18x10 et 47 rear on my '02 S without issue (car is lowered).

I just put 18x8 et 50 front and 18x10 et 42 rear on my '98 base. (with Michelin Pilot Sport PS2s).

I had to tie the hand brake cables to the longitudinal axle (as per Porsche's bulletin) as it was touching the rear tires - did you have to do that too on your '02 S?

I was just wondering whether replacing the passenger side bulb on the ICQ kit solved your problem with the flickering headlight...

I haven't replaced the bulb, but the problem sometimes comes back...

All the best,

Gus

Hi Gus,

Replacing the passenger side bulb made the headlight work again with the HID kit, yes, but it did not solve the flickering of the side markers, which are LEDs. The headlights never flickered to begin with, it's just the sides that do.

Is your headlight flickering?

Euro Dezigns H7 8500K 55W

These look interesting - how bright are they compared to stock / halogen and/or compared to HID lights?

I had H7 blue lights in my fogs but took them out because they were not bright enough (worse than stock).

I have heated seats in my Boxster, as well as my wife's Saab. Couldn't do without it now...

I wish there was a way to have air conditioned seats in the summer time though, because the back of the seats get really hot with the top down. I was thinking of running a tube to the side, by the seatbelt buckle, but I don't know if that would work. Anyone have any ideas? :)

Regarding heated seats though - I recommend it, but that's just me

If you go to: http://s192.photobucket.com/albums/z231/tr...nt=100_0309.flv you will see the decal I added to my spoiler. We spent Christmas day driving up and down the highway so others in a "chase" vehicle could see the fun :P

I have that too, mine is silver to match the exterior color ;)