X51

Cross posted this q on rennlist. I'm pleading ignorance. How do I unplug the coupling to release the wiring harness for the tail light assembly? Thanks.

Can anyone tell me which of the following OEM parts are carried over for use with the PSS10 installation?:

Front: stop plate (upper and lower), bearing collar, support ring, compensating plate

Rear: stop plate (upper and lower)

Thanks.

Hi X51..... I'm not sure exactly what you are asking for, but, here's some info. Let us know if you want more.

The stock GT3 MKII suspension is different from the stock C2 parts. It's height adjustable coil-overs. The springs are H&R. The front lower control arms are split at the inner ends to accomodate spacers such that additional negative camber can be had beyond what can be done at the front strut tops. The rear lower control arms are not split (but the GT3 RS ones are). The dampers are not adjustable. The ride height is about 30mm lower than the C2.

Let us know what else you want.

That's great information and much appreciated. That tells me what I needed to know. Thanks.

What is the standard Porsche OE suspension on the GT3? I own a 996 C2 Coupe with X51 package. Currently running Bilstein PSS10s with GT3 sway bars, but can't seem to get the Bilstein package adjusted to my tastes. Live in the midwest where the roads are full of asphalt patching from every winter's potholes. Smooth roads it's great, bad roads and washboard sections of regional tracks it tends to porpoise and lose compliance in rough sections. Thanks.

On a 996 C2 (narrow body)

50 or 52 mm offset will fit for the front

and

63 or 65 mm will fit the rear just fine.

Thanks, Loren. I appreciate the help!

Will the 993 Turbo wheels fit my 996 C2 narrow body (2002)? The fronts appear to be no problem as the 996 owner's manual says 50 or 52mm offset on the 18" wheels is acceptable, while it lists 40mm for the rear. The rears of the 993 wheels are 65mm. It doesn't seem to me that they would fit, but my Porsche service tech at the dealer says they will (20 years experience). I don't want any handling issues, caliper issues or anything else. The offset is what's bothering me, so I thought I'd ask this group for their experience. Please advise.

I bought an extinguisher (halon) and Brey and Krause (B&K) mount through CDOC online. Best pricing and great service. The mount mounts on the driver's or passenger's seat track and moves with the power seat. Put it on the passenger's side and avoid banging the bottom of your legs on it while driving. It fits great and is close at hand.

My 2002 996 C2 has been making the short horn chirp when I lock it as well, but this just started after I had it into the dealer for service. Is this also a setting that's available with the locking mechanism, as opposed to just indicating something is open?

Can anyone tell me why the rotors on my 2002 996 C2 with 16k miles on it are cracking / checking? I have hairline cracks spreading out from the drilled holes in the rotors. An indy told me when the cracks "join up" or run out to the edge of the rotor, it's time to replace them. I've looked at a lot of friends' Porsches and no one else's is doing this, several with 2 to 3 times the mileage. Can anyone shed some light on why this would be happening with so few miles?

Thanks much!

HEAT IS YOUR BRAKES AND ROTORS ENEMY along with a heavy foot. :(

I've only owned the car for 2,000 of its 16,000 miles and they just started to appear. I'm about as anal about my cars as you could be, so I know it's not a heavy foot or unusually high heat. I thought that's why they cross drilled them anyway - to help dissapate heat. So far in my ownership I've been more impressed with my BMWs I've owned in terms of braking power, feel, and durability. This is disappointing to say the least. It's a great car and I love to drive it, so I'll obviously replace them, but it's too bad they don't last longer.

Thanks for the input.

Can anyone tell me why the rotors on my 2002 996 C2 with 16k miles on it are cracking / checking? I have hairline cracks spreading out from the drilled holes in the rotors. An indy told me when the cracks "join up" or run out to the edge of the rotor, it's time to replace them. I've looked at a lot of friends' Porsches and no one else's is doing this, several with 2 to 3 times the mileage. Can anyone shed some light on why this would be happening with so few miles?

Thanks much!

I start with 8-10 lbs under factory recommended. It depends on the track and the temp of the track. Long tracks with sweeping turns as opposed to short tracks with many turns (tires will get hotter on the latter). Track temps in the morning can be 50F or 90F. The other factor is how you drive, i.e. first DE so you are cautious and in traffic v.s. Solo group with the the other banshees. Finally the tires and how the tire wall rolls over (stiffness)

So, first time out, do 5 lbs under. When you get off the track, measure the pressure and reduce further if needed. Look at the wear marks for tire roll and see if you are getting the corners. If you are new to DE, your instructor will be a great resource to help you with that too. The more events you do with different instructors, they will all have different perspectives. So learn from all.

For comparison, Here in the Carolinas, I have run 14 lbs under when the track temp is 140F and I run CMP, lots of turns and shorter track. Falken Azenis RT tires.

John, on the wheels, I use old spare wheels for track days. Keep my nice wheels for street only. Just a suggestion so you don't hit a gator on a turn and bend a nice wheel.

Thanks Izzy. That helps clarify things a lot. The gators won't be a problem at Laguna-Seca, they're not rumble strips, they're a series of little ramps (all relatively new). At my first DE event in March, we were warned that these were new and to watch out for them. It was not a problem, people actually began USING them at times to get more traction on the outer tires. I admit I am doing the reverse of what most people do with street vs. track wheels/tires - I have 17" street tires on plain twist wheels, and 18" track tires on nicer 2-pc wheels, but that's only because the Pilot Sport Cup tires came with the 18" wheels when I bought them, so it's just temporary until I use up the Pilot Sport Cup tires, then those wheels will wear a set of street tires and become my daily drivers. I am still planning to stay in the novice group this year and probably part of next year.

Anybody use simulators as well? I have GTR-2 with the Logitech G25 wheel & pedals, and it's really amazing.

Izzy,

Thanks for the info as well. John - thanks for asking the question again. I'm running the Carrera open spokes (18") on the Contisports (ugh), so once I scrub those tires I''ll be in the market for a dedicated track set of wheels and tires as well. Would like to get the same wheels I have (OEM), but improve the rubber. These tires were on the car when I bought it a few months ago. I will experiment with pressures and take input from the instructors as well. I'm driving at Mid American Motorsports - a couple year old track in the midlands.

Thanks again.

Hi Guys

What type of helmet for DE events?

Buy an SA2005 rated helmet. PCA chapters allow SA2000 or M2000 or higher rating, but 2005 is the current rating. SA is for auto racing; M rating is for motorcycles. If you buy an SA rated helmet with a 2005 rating, you'll be set for any auto event for the next several years. You can get a great full face helmet for under $400.

Doing a Porsche DE this weekend and wondered what people have found to be the most optimal tire pressures to run on the track. I have a 2002 996 C2 with the 18" OEM wheels and tires and have been running the recommended tire pressures for street driving.

Any and all input welcome.

Thanks.

NO way that's worth it. The S is a faster car, but the 6-speed trans isn't known for its smoothness. Additionally, you're going to be spending big bucks to get the clutch and brakes done unless you DIY.

The fact that it's black with blasted paint (too hot in FL!) and a smoker's car makes it a deal breaker. I cannot tolerate cigarette smoke in any quantity.

Just keep your '99!

Concur with Rodger. If you're that interested in upgrading, there are plenty of better examples out there for the money. Keep looking and be patient, or be satisfied with what you have, since you know it better than anything else out there!

If you ask the people at home depot there is a adhesive neutralizing product they have that is really good. It basically smells like kerosene, but you just squirt a little onto the top edge, give it a second and then using the attached to the bottle plastic scraper get under the adhesive goo and then one more squirt and it'll come right up. The best part is that the adhesive neutralizing is only temporary so after you get it off the car it is ready to go back on in a minute or so. The dental floss method is effective if you are careful if not the adhesive on one end can cause you to pry into the paint on the opposite end from which you are lifting. Kind of like opening a soda can. I've de-badged all of my cars just something I picked up in Germany.

If you're using the dental floss method, make sure you heat up the emblem thoroughly with a hot hair dryer before you pull the floss underneath the emblem. That will help minimize the sticky residue that's left. Goo gone should be sufficient, but the adhesive neutralizer sounds like a good product as well.

Listmates,

I am looking at some carbon fiber parts for my 996. Prices from Porsche are exorbinant! I once bought an overlay set for a truck and some of the pieces fit and looked great, others were shabby. I don't intend to put junk in my Porsche, but I would like the carbon fiber look for under say, ten grand. Any one use those overlays that go on with 3 M tape, and if so, were they worth doing?

Thanks in advance.

What parts are you looking for - interior or exterior? Interior parts can be purchased through Bumperplugs.com - they will do center consoles, trim, etc. Go to their site and peruse the "order" tab to see all the parts they offer.

IMHO - a total waste of money.

Your car has the same strut braces (already in the car) that racing Cup Cars use.

Thanks, Loren. You just saved me a couple hundred bucks.

New member here looking for some insight. Bought an '02 996 C2 about 8 months ago after driving an '01 M3 for several years. I had a strut brace between the towers on the M3 and it provided a lot of stability for cornering. I've seen Rennline makes a strut brace for the 996 and wonder if anyone has installed one, how much they helped and what other brands people have tried.

I'm still getting accustomed to the rear engine handling and "lighter" feel of the front end and thought this might help the handling and cornering feel as it did in the M3.

Thanks.