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Everything posted by JayUSA123

  1. Oh man. Sorry to hear about that lost screw. What a PITA. Sounds like you solved the problem though. It's so great when intermittent issues are solved! Enjoy your more reliable car! Jay
  2. Okay, it definitely seems to be stuck open. I've also noticed that that when I remove and reinstall the gas cap while the car is hot and running, I hear a howling noise for a few seconds that seems to come from the "bleeder valve" (996-201-143-01). I believe this is one of the symptoms of it failing; however, I'm not sure whether I should add a new one to my parts order now, or replace the vacuum control valve first and go from there. Do you think the howling could be related or should I just go for both? Thanks a bunch! Jay
  3. There is a test you can perform on the CKP sensor with a multimeter. If you haven't done it yet, I'd recommend it. My 99 Boxster had similar no-start symptoms (although no stalling) and no codes. It turned out to be an intermittently failing crankshaft position sensor; however, even though the sensor was only failing intermittently, I was able to get out-of-spec readings on a multimeter very reliably. 1. Remove connector. 2. Connect ohmmeter to CKP sensor connector, pins 1 and 2. Should read 0.8 - 1.0 kOhms at 68 degrees F. 3 .Connect ohmmeter to pins 1 and 3. Should have no continuity (Infinity Ohms.) The continuity test was where I saw an invalid reading on mine. The meter would alternate between no continuity and a high resistance reading. I popped a new one in and haven't had any issues with starting since (car runs better too.) Good luck! Jay
  4. Do you know how it does that with only two connections? It does seem odd that the valve allows air flow in both directions. Is there a testing procedure for it? I can't find any testing instructions for it in the service manuals.
  5. I got a P0446 code on my 99 Boxster. I've gone through the diagnosis steps for the code. Blew compressed air through the purge air line and it seemed fine. The next step in the OBD diagnosis manual is to replace the EVAP canister; however, while I was in the wheel well, I figured I'd check the other related components. I found that the "Vacuum Control Valve" (Part number 996-201-621-02; however, sold only as part of vent line 996-201-255-08 - Arrow pointing to part in image) allows air to flow in both directions despite appearing to be a check valve (arrow on side.) ​My question for those in the know: Is this part in fact a check valve? Should it allow air to pass in both directions? If not, I'm thinking of replacing that first before springing for a new canister. Thanks all, Jay 99 Boxster 105k miles
  6. I just replaced my RF transverse control arm. The Bentley manual states that the retaining bolt (where the control arm mounts to the chassis cross member) must be torqued with the vehicle on the ground and suspension loaded with the weight of the vehicle. How the heck do you do that? I don't see how I could get under there, behind the wheel to tighten it. Could I simulate the load by jacking up the wheel bearing carrier until the suspension is under load? Thanks! Jay
  7. Hit 100k in my 99 Boxster a couple weeks ago! Running great!
  8. An update: I think the new immobilizer might be bad. Since installing it, I've noticed that the interior lights don't seem to behave properly. When I pull the key out of the ignition, the dome light, instrument cluster lights, and door lights all go dark. Additionally, when I unlock and open the door, the lights do not illuminate; however, when I insert the key into the ignition and turn the switch to ON, the lights turn on and things start to behave normally. Is there a setting in the immobilizer that would disable these lights without the ignition in the on position or is this type of behavior never expected? Thanks in advance for any help illuminating this problem (no pun intended.) :)
  9. Yes, it's a cake

  10. Me too. But you already knew that. :)
  11. My key remotes no longer work. I can only (un)lock the car at the door with the key. The car isn't in energy saving mode and the batteries are new. I performed the resynchronization as noted in the factory service manual (turn ignition on, turn ignition off, remove key and press unlock button within 6 seconds); however, that didn't do anything. It's worth noting that I think the remote on one of my keys is broken, since the LED only flashes once/second and when I release the button, the LED glows dimly. But, my other key appears to be fine. The LED flashes nice and bright when I press a button (continuously for the unlock button, and pulsed flashing for the trunk, as you would expect.) Some background: I just replaced my immobilizer after my last one got water damaged. The old one still allowed the car to drive, but things weren't perfect: the remote range was poor, the head/tail lights didn't flash when arming the alarm system. I've been driving the car for the last year or so with the old immobilizer; however, I decided to replace it since I knew it was broken and I am also troubleshooting O2 sensor problems and wanted to eliminate variables. About a month ago, my remote range went from short to non-existent and I had to revert to the old-fashioned "key in the lock" method. I figured the receiver in the immobilizer finally bit it and was thankful that I had a new one on the way. Fast forward to today, I replaced the immobilizer, programmed it with a PST2, transferred the remote codes from the old immobilizer to the new one and low and behold, nothing! The remotes still don't work! I tried relearning the keys into the new immobilizer manually using my key codes and still nothing. I inspected the immobilizer connector for a broken antenna wire, but everything looks okay, additionally the remote doesn't work even if I hold it right on top of the immobilizer, so I don't think it's a poor signal/range issue. Is there anything I'm missing? THANKS!
  12. Hi all. Does anyone have a PST2 or PIWIS in or around Rhode Island? I need to program a new immobilizer. I tried PMing Nick_USA and uk_chris, but wasn't able to reach them. I know this thread is a bit old, so I figured maybe a message here would be my best option. Thanks! Jay
  13. My trunk latches are locked and no longer working. I diagnosed the problem as a failing trunk latch actuator (the servo that locks the trunk latches, part # 996.624.115.01) - undoubtedly, the result of my recent immobilizer water damage. :( Has anyone replaced theirs before? How do I get in there? The PET doesn't seem to help me understand how the whole thing is assembled. It looks like I might have to remove the carpeting in order to remove the bracket in which the actuator is located. Any tips? Thanks! Jay
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