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kbrandsma

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Posts posted by kbrandsma

  1. When I repaired my seats, I thought I would also replace the cushions and the leathers.  But after I took them apart, I ended up only replacing the leathers as the cushions, springs and frame were in great shape. If you end up taking things apart, I would suggest strongly considering adding heated seats.

     

    Here are some before and after shots as well as a part schematic. Let me know if you need part numbers.

     

    IMG_0324_zps5449e109.jpg

     

    IMG_0335_zpscff9e64f.jpg

     

    1-21-20141-41-23PM_zps4e378cce.jpg

  2. Yes,  You can switch sides with both.  On the door side of both seats, you'll need to cut out the leather to accommodate the controls.  Conversely you will have a hole to patch on both seats when you make the swap, because the old hole will be now on the inside.  The patch will be fairly inconspicuous because it will be mostly hidden my the center console.  

  3. 1997 Boxster, 5 sp, silver, black interior, made in germany.

     

    I want to install floor lights on driver and passenger side.  I understand that this feature was optional?  In any case, I'd like the p/n for the lamp holder/shell - I am going to install it myself.  Since mostly all boxters have these lights, i am not to picky about getting the one for my 97....anything from 1997-2007 or later will probably work.

     

     

     

     

    All Boxsters have the door panel lights and there was an option "IXX2 Illuminated footwell, (at least in the Carrera).  Not sure about the Boxster. So unless you have this option you'll have to do a work around.

     

    I added footwell lights on my 986 Boxster over three years ago. It would be an identical installation for you.  It is a very worthwhile mod!  I used super thin LED lights and connected them to the overhead light switch so that they have the same on/off properties as the rest of the interior lights.

     

    Press HERE for the link.

  4. 947578d9.jpg

     

    1.  Per post #7 above, both sets of lights placed in the footwell are wired together.  The wires (positive and negative) meet on the passenger's side above the foam cover that is under the dash (foam cover is where the new LED light is placed on passenger's side).

     

    2. These wires then are run up the passenger's side "A Pillar" trim piece, then accross the top trim of the windshield and connect to the center interior light switch.

     

    3.  On the switch there is a "Y" lever that determines if the center light is always on, always off or only operates when the doors are opened. The positive wire from the footwell lights is soldered onto the "Y" shaped copper rocker inside the light switch.  

     

    4.  The negative wire from the footwell lights is tapped into the center wire (ground wire) entering the switch. You can only do the positive wire to the switch and ground the negative elsewhere.  I chose to run them together. 

     

    5.  The footwell lights now mimic the center console light including fading/diming after you lock the car. 

  5. None, check the maintenance schedule and follow it. 

     

    If your not sure what was done by the previous owner, then decide what items on the schedule you will do even it means you may redo a few things. Then you know you have an accurate baseline.  If the previous owner didn't keep track of maintenance items, then they probably didn't do it. The only items more expensive than regular maintenance is no maintenance.

     

    Here is the link to the maintenance schedules.  PRESS HERE

  6. I would prefer to do it myself.  I think once you get started there will be more clean-up needed depending on how the old AOS was fairing.  If they stick to that price, they may gloss over some other hoses and clean-up that should also take place.

     

    Here is an excellent DIY by contributing member Hobbes  PRESS HERE .  The write-up is worth reviewing regardless of who you have do the work.

  7. Door speakers usually provide bass that is powered by an AMP. 

     

    Pull the radio and see what is connected to it.  Most likely a brown plug in the B slot (powers dash-front speakers and rear speakers) and a black plug in the A slot (provides, power, ground and illumination).  If you have nothing in the C1 slot (yellow plug) then you have no amp and no capacity for powering door speakers.

     

    The photo below is courtesy of xmac on this board and his post  (#7) can be found HERE

     

    CDR220-PinsonRadioHeadUnitside.jpg


     

  8. Yes, once you get the ATF up to temperature and not over 40 degrees C, you place the car in park and fill until the fluid overflows. The volume of ATF in the tranny is directly related to it's temperature.

     

    There is a great ATF Replacement write-up HERE

     

    The fill design ensures correct transmission fluid level provided the ATF it is at the right temperature.

     

    MVC_115S.JPG 
     

  9. In the 986 Boxster they have the same plug for oil drain as well as manual transmission (different heads but same length and size of  threads).  I stripped the tranny plug.  I used a screw extractor to remove it without a problem. 

     

    As Davet18 says, aluminum strips easy.  When you tighten the plug , don't tighten beyond 19 ft/lbs as stripped bolt heads are much easier to deal with than a stripped oil pan, which would be a real nightmare. 

     

    I would also recommend replacing the drain plug with the correct sized aluminum hard-anodized magnetic drain plug by LN Engineering.  Current cost is less than $30.

     

    http://lnengineering.com/resources/2014/03/03/billet-aluminum-hard-anodized-magnetic-drain-plug/

     

     

     

    106-07-150x150.jpg

     

     

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