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kbrandsma

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Posts posted by kbrandsma


  1. 947578d9.jpg

     

    1.  Per post #7 above, both sets of lights placed in the footwell are wired together.  The wires (positive and negative) meet on the passenger's side above the foam cover that is under the dash (foam cover is where the new LED light is placed on passenger's side).

     

    2. These wires then are run up the passenger's side "A Pillar" trim piece, then accross the top trim of the windshield and connect to the center interior light switch.

     

    3.  On the switch there is a "Y" lever that determines if the center light is always on, always off or only operates when the doors are opened. The positive wire from the footwell lights is soldered onto the "Y" shaped copper rocker inside the light switch.  

     

    4.  The negative wire from the footwell lights is tapped into the center wire (ground wire) entering the switch. You can only do the positive wire to the switch and ground the negative elsewhere.  I chose to run them together. 

     

    5.  The footwell lights now mimic the center console light including fading/diming after you lock the car. 


  2. None, check the maintenance schedule and follow it. 

     

    If your not sure what was done by the previous owner, then decide what items on the schedule you will do even it means you may redo a few things. Then you know you have an accurate baseline.  If the previous owner didn't keep track of maintenance items, then they probably didn't do it. The only items more expensive than regular maintenance is no maintenance.

     

    Here is the link to the maintenance schedules.  PRESS HERE


  3. I would prefer to do it myself.  I think once you get started there will be more clean-up needed depending on how the old AOS was fairing.  If they stick to that price, they may gloss over some other hoses and clean-up that should also take place.

     

    Here is an excellent DIY by contributing member Hobbes  PRESS HERE .  The write-up is worth reviewing regardless of who you have do the work.


  4. Door speakers usually provide bass that is powered by an AMP. 

     

    Pull the radio and see what is connected to it.  Most likely a brown plug in the B slot (powers dash-front speakers and rear speakers) and a black plug in the A slot (provides, power, ground and illumination).  If you have nothing in the C1 slot (yellow plug) then you have no amp and no capacity for powering door speakers.

     

    The photo below is courtesy of xmac on this board and his post  (#7) can be found HERE

     

    CDR220-PinsonRadioHeadUnitside.jpg


     


  5. Yes, once you get the ATF up to temperature and not over 40 degrees C, you place the car in park and fill until the fluid overflows. The volume of ATF in the tranny is directly related to it's temperature.

     

    There is a great ATF Replacement write-up HERE

     

    The fill design ensures correct transmission fluid level provided the ATF it is at the right temperature.

     

    MVC_115S.JPG 
     


  6. In the 986 Boxster they have the same plug for oil drain as well as manual transmission (different heads but same length and size of  threads).  I stripped the tranny plug.  I used a screw extractor to remove it without a problem. 

     

    As Davet18 says, aluminum strips easy.  When you tighten the plug , don't tighten beyond 19 ft/lbs as stripped bolt heads are much easier to deal with than a stripped oil pan, which would be a real nightmare. 

     

    I would also recommend replacing the drain plug with the correct sized aluminum hard-anodized magnetic drain plug by LN Engineering.  Current cost is less than $30.

     

    http://lnengineering.com/resources/2014/03/03/billet-aluminum-hard-anodized-magnetic-drain-plug/

     

     

     

    106-07-150x150.jpg

     

     


  7. First of all, thank you for your service, keep your helmet strapped, head down and return safely!

    Place several dryer sheets in car before covering and/or purchase some desiccant beads to absorb moisture and place in the interior. Your car will smell better after a long storage period.

    Park your car on plywood (or rubber cow mats) which is forgiving on your tires(since they are over inflated) or better yet move the car 20 inches or so every 3 months to prevent tires from egg shaping by placing in neutral and pushing. Concrete transpires, so your tires will be oblong after storage. Don't let anyone start the car in storage unless they are going to drive it for a full tank of gas or more. Either drive it or park it, hard to do both.

    Also, plug your exhaust with a rag to keep rodents out of the exhaust and tie a note to your keys to remove the rags from your exhaust before startup. In the spring some will push car in third gear without starting 20 feet or so to lube upper cylinder with motor oil before starting. Many recommend changing the oil again after a long storage of 6 months or more.

    Lot of good ideas here, let us know what you do. Did I say thank you for your service!


  8. Kbrand... My C4S E6 fuse shows it's for: TERM 30 TELEPHONE/HANDY, NAV, ORVR. I don't know what the ORVR is? However the fuse is good... I checked the connections on top of the tank and all seems good. When I push the filler pipe door in I hear a solenoid click.

    Is the Figure 1 picture that shows on the Technical Information Sheet, "Fuel Tank Hose Modification" under the fender at the fuel fill cavity? Or in the tank itself?

    Thanks for your reply...

    It is in the tank itself.

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