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kbrandsma

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Posts posted by kbrandsma

  1. First of all, thank you for your service, keep your helmet strapped, head down and return safely!

    Place several dryer sheets in car before covering and/or purchase some desiccant beads to absorb moisture and place in the interior. Your car will smell better after a long storage period.

    Park your car on plywood (or rubber cow mats) which is forgiving on your tires(since they are over inflated) or better yet move the car 20 inches or so every 3 months to prevent tires from egg shaping by placing in neutral and pushing. Concrete transpires, so your tires will be oblong after storage. Don't let anyone start the car in storage unless they are going to drive it for a full tank of gas or more. Either drive it or park it, hard to do both.

    Also, plug your exhaust with a rag to keep rodents out of the exhaust and tie a note to your keys to remove the rags from your exhaust before startup. In the spring some will push car in third gear without starting 20 feet or so to lube upper cylinder with motor oil before starting. Many recommend changing the oil again after a long storage of 6 months or more.

    Lot of good ideas here, let us know what you do. Did I say thank you for your service!

  2. Kbrand... My C4S E6 fuse shows it's for: TERM 30 TELEPHONE/HANDY, NAV, ORVR. I don't know what the ORVR is? However the fuse is good... I checked the connections on top of the tank and all seems good. When I push the filler pipe door in I hear a solenoid click.

    Is the Figure 1 picture that shows on the Technical Information Sheet, "Fuel Tank Hose Modification" under the fender at the fuel fill cavity? Or in the tank itself?

    Thanks for your reply...

    It is in the tank itself.

  3. Is you vehicle a 2007S? Is the passenger side occupied? Or just the driver's side? Need additional information.

    Sometimes if the passenger seat is in the full back position and incline is back most of the way to the engine, the friont of the seat gets elevated and causes the light and chime to go on.

  4. I have searched the forum and also the web and can't find anything that gives a brief overview of when and when not to disconnect the battery. I was wondering if anyone could give a quick run down?

    I.e. Is there a simple set of rules to abide by?

    Thanks

    When the car is throwing codes or has MIL lit, do not disconnect the battery, otherwise you will lose all the accumulated diagnostic data about what is going on. Get the car scanned first before disconnecting the battery.

    If no codes or once codes are cleared, I would remove negative connection to battery when working on any electrical or anywhere near airbags. Steering wheel removal, door panel removal, seat removal, starter, ignition switch, sound system components, air bags, headlamp switch are the most obvious. If in doubt I always remove the negative battery cable. I place the negative cable clamp in an insulated boot (sock) to prevent accidently connecting it back to the post. Sounds unlikely but you'd be surprised.

    Also, get in the habit of removing the key from the ignition as air bags are never really deactivated until the key is removed.

    Thanks. This is just what I was after. As codes discussed above..... Contemplating getting a durametric........ However, they seem quite pricey and my friend who has a 996 who I could share with is selling it shortly due to another baby. I am certainly not interested in the fake route, and also want to ensure that I can run the latest version of the software.

    The only reason I have hesitated in buying is that the enthusiast package doesn't allow coding, but the professional is over twice the cost! Would you say that the enthusiast is ok for what I would need it for, and to just pay someone with professional if ever required (like retrofitting cruise control et al)?

    Where is the best place to find a genuine with 1 slot left? Does the price reduce significantly due to this? Have searched ebay for past couple of months but haven't come across one during this time period.

    Cheers

    I would make a post on this site under the "Classified Section". I bought the enthusiast package but later upgraded to the professional, just because I needed it for more than 3 vehicles. Also I don't believe the enthusiast version will activate the OBC. I would call the good folks at Durametric. They are very helpful.

    Classified Section PRESS HERE

  5. +1 Broken cable from the transmission back to the motor. Easy to fix. Also check all parts on both sides for broken parts or missing clips and also check lining for tears and future leaks.

    Sometimes the transmission cable will fail because it's trying to turn broken or stuck or frozen levers.

    Thanks. I like the easy to fix part. Any good source on the steps to do? Any issues with timing the transmission after cable replacement? I should just replace both cables while I am at it.

    You can use a battery operated drill to get both sides (levers) exactly equal or exactly at the same position. I'll post a link with excellent photos and steps to follow. PRESS HERE

    Also search for Top articles by 1schoir on this site! PRESS HERE or HERE

  6. Three years ago I was replacing my winter tires when the last tire's lug key broke my tool. I took the last tire to Roger Job's Porsche in Bellingham, WA. They gave me the right tool (key) to borrow. I changed it in the parking lot and returned the key. They took the part number and ordered a new tool (key) for me. Apparently the 986 has a total of 17 different key patterns. Total cost was less than $50.

  7. If no codes or once codes are cleared, I would remove negative connection to battery when working on any electrical or anywhere near airbags. Steering wheel removal, door panel removal, seat removal, starter, ignition switch, sound system components, air bags, headlamp switch are the most obvious. If in doubt I always remove the negative battery cable. I place the negative cable clamp in an insulated boot (sock) to prevent accidently connecting it back to the post. Sounds unlikely but you'd be surprised.

    Also, get in the habit of removing the key from the ignition as air bags are never really deactivated until the key is removed.

  8. That's not all to uncommon.

    Here are a couple of leads for you to try. (check venting)

    http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/43505-gas-filling-problem-solved/

    Lamborghini fix for similar problem. I carry one under my gas cap and use it every 12-15 fill-ups:

    http://www.lamboweb.com/Repairs_Section/Gallardo_Repairs_Gas_Fill.htm

    There are also a couple of TSB's under Boxster worth looking at. (again venting)

    http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/getdownload/87-94boxster-fuel-tank-hose-modificationpdf/

    You will need to be a contributing member to access TSB's on this site.

    • Thanks 1
  9. Anti-seize is not recommended. Myself, I would not worry about cleaning it off. Next change omit the anti-seize.

    Not sure what you mean by coil tubes. Do you mean the spark plug tubes or the coils themselves. No lubricant is needed for the coil themselves. But the tubes are inserted with new O rings with a little lubricant on the O rings. I would not replace tubes or coils until they fail. Tubes fail when oil is present. Inspect the coils every spark plug change and look for cracks and if present replace individually as needed.

    Here is an excellent link PRESS HERE

  10. The 210 has a metal cage with bendable ears that hold it in to the center console. When you upgrade to the CDR-220, the metal cage gets removed and the 220 slides directly into the center console. The ground wire that connects to the metal cage should be wrapped with tape or heat shrink to keep it from grounding out and causing the infamous beep when the doors get locked.

    Here is a DIY write - up that might help PRESS HERE



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