kbrandsma

There was a coolant reservoir thread already so I'll not ask any questions about that.

Here is the situation:

I was driving up to paradise WA (basecamp on Ranier Mountain), all the way to the top I had AC on low and everything was running fine, my thermometer was even a little below mid temp. We got to the top, walked around for a half hour and headed back down. I noticed while I was driving that I smelled coolant and my engine was continueing to get hotter so I put it in neutral thinking it would cool down if it wasn't in gear and the temperature continued to rise. on a 60degree day at the top of the mountain and an engine that is quickly overheating i knew something was wrong (obviously). I pulled over and the pressure cap on my overflow tank had popped or blown off and my back drunk was covered in coolant.

A) I knew i had a small crack in my coolant reservoir and I am already replacing that, where should I order a new one from, and is it smart to look in a junkyard for this part?

B) Is there perhaps another issue I am missing with the overheating? I had to get it towed home because i couldn't drive it for more than 20minutes without the temperature beginning to climb to overheated very quickly.

Coolant Tank Cap from Barrier Porsche in Bellevue under $30, part number - 996.106.447.03

Coolant Tank from Sunset Porsche in Portland (Beaverton, OR) around $225 plus shipping, part number 996.106.147.08

Depending on loss of coolant may need more from Sunset Porsche (50% coolant/50% water ratio) around $25 a gallon

Trip to Paradise on Mt. Rainier - - - - - PRICELESS!!!!!!

Luckily its an easy fix. All you need is a new coolant tank cap.

If the there was a sudden loss of coolant and it was caused by a faulty coolant tank cap. WHere did the fluid escape from?

I can find the reference to the cause of this by the AC in the handbook?

I realize there are many posts on coolant leaks, which I have read in an effort to find a solution to my problem. That said, I've not seemed to find a similar problem to the one I seem to be having. I need some ideas and help before I have my porsche carted off to the dealer...which I'd like to avoid.

I have a 1998 Boxster and returned home after a week's vacation. Took the car out and noticed the red oil light came on when I slowed at a traffic light. Stopped at a gas station and checked the oil (always keep a quart of Mobil 1 in the trunk). That said, I added the quart as it seemed to be down a bit. I also noticed what appeared to be condensation on the inside of the trunk lid above the radiator/oil caps. There also seemed to be a slight bit of radiator fluid that seeped from the cap. Cleaned the very small about of fluid and condensation and decided to run the car very cautiously and monitor the problem.

Took the car out two days ago in about 90 degree heat with the A/C running. Seemed to run fine, temp gauge was about 210F and toward the tail end of the 20 minute ride I pulled up to the driveway to let my father-in-law out...backed up so he could pull his car from the driveway and I could put the Porsche away. Noticed a stream of radiator fluid in the street. Pulled the car in the garage and all hell broke loose....fluid started gushing from the passenger side in front of the tire/wheel well area.

Ordered the Bentley Manual, which arrived today and began to review the coolant section. I've gone through the following:

1. Jacked the car up, checked for coolant drips underneath, but the only spot seemed to be what appears to be the overflow hose (a small tube in the vacinity of the rear passenger tire).

2. No sign of any broken hoses underneath. All hoses appeared dry and intact.

3. Checked trunk area to determine if the resevoir had cracked...completely dry.

4. Removed cover to engine compartment to inspect hoses and found no sign of fluid spray, hose breaks, etc. All looked good.

5. Removed panel behind driver/passenger seat to inspect hoses and water pump....no sign of a break, leak, etc. Every thing was "bone dry".

6. Inspected water pump from underneath and found leaks.

7. Refilled radiator with water and found no leaks.

8. Also pressurized the radiator by opening and closing the pressure valve.

8. Ran the car for about 30 minutes at 2500 - 4000 rpm with A/C on and off, with heater on and off....no leaks.

9. The A/C performed normal and cold, the heater performed normal and hot. Temp of engine during this was about 210F.

Does anyone have an idea of what could have casued the problem? I would be very grateful for suggestions or ideas.

The only thing I haven't done was test the vacuum on the radiator cap as I do not have the tool and a replacement cap is probably cheaper. I have changed the air filter and cleaned leaves and debris from the front radiator's. At this point I am puzzled and a little afraid to drive it to the dealer 30 miles away if I have to.

Hi,

No problem, that is normal, it comes from your A/C. it is in the handbook.

Ok, and, Is possible buy you this item too?¿

http://www.euromotorspeed.com/servlet/the-...-Molding/Detail

You can purchase these uphostery and trim tools from Harbor Frieght.

Other thing.

I bought you the 986 Avic kit, but, its allo ok but I don know where I should connect the rear speakers.

I tried to put with rear speakes output in avic, and no function.

Where i should connect it.

?¿?¿

The door speakers and front function good

You connect the rear speakers directly to the AVIC HU

As Loren has said once or twice, "Run a search, it has been discussed many times before." Or click here.

Good Luck!

Scoll down to the bottom of thge attached thread to see a video.

Check the fuses first and if all ok you might have to remove the instrument cluster and replace individual lights as needed.

Great pictures Terry!

My replacement bellows came with a traditional screw clamp. Easy to install and remove.

To use the switch on the dome light above the mirror to power your footwell lights , you will need to run your power from the correct side of the switch. In short you are going to need to run wiring up there anyway. What kid of LED footwell lights did you purchase? I am interested in doing this mod.

MY98 had done that a couple times. I exit the car and used the the key to manually lock and unlock the door and that seemed to release the latch levers. I also had an ignition switch failure at about the same time. I'm not sure what caused it and it hasn't happened since.

I have the AVIC D3 and connected my rears to the head unit (HU). I have the factory rear speaker kit and a 4x40 AMP. It doesn't need much to drive the stock rear speaker kit.

+1 for Zaino as well!

I haven't used anything else.

slide hammer does the trick

To place the GPS Antenna in factory location just give the plastic cover a good squeeze with the fingers and it pops right off. The lead can be routed around the top air duct and fished up the existing opening. You don't need to cut anything.

I had found an odd little contraption in my shop that just happened to be 14mm. I set the seal just a little past 13 and not quite 14mm. When you look at the place the seal goes carefully you will noticed that the opening is not perfect. Two moulded engine castings come together, so I found it difficult to gauge when it was square. I ended up using the scrap metal from my shop to measure the distance from the end of the crankshaft. To get the old main seal out, I drilled a hole in the old seal, inserted a screw and used a hammer bolt extractor from Harbor Frieight, the old seal popped right out. The hammer operates on the same principle as Porsche Tool 9237 at a fraction of the cost.

I meant bolt #4 and it is at 8:00 o'clock, looking towards the front from the rear bumper. It is a 10mm Triplesquare standard. Go to AutoZone and buy the OEM brand. You will need to cut about a third of the end and use a crescent or open end wrench. Also the tranny jack I picked up at Harbor Freight for under $60 bucks.

To hold the flywheel in place check this post

I purchased a clutch alignment tool. I made my own RMS seal press. To see it click here. You are welcome to borrow both just pay shipping both ways.

I used 2x6's and supported my motor during the process, had the car on jack stands and used my hydraulic lift to support the car at the rear lifting point whenever possible. I never trust the lift or jack stands alone and always looked for redundancy whenever possible.

I replaced my AOS. Having the tranny out made it very accessible. While you have the tranny out you might as well change the transmission fluid. Also the bolt at 4:00 o'clock on the bell housing has a triple square head. Strip that and you are screwed. Ask me how I know!

Yes, they can be replaced separately. However, once you remove the exhaust, axles, drop the tranny and get to everything, you should do what is reasonably necessary. That could mean the DMF as well. You really don't know until then. While I had everything apart, I also replaced my O2 sensors and my AOS figuring that 60K was a safe bet they needed replacing. Not that you need to drop the tranny to change the AOS, but it did make it very simple to do so.

I have a 98, 2.5 liter, 5 speed Boxster and replaced the RMS two winters ago (Januuary 2008) with about 58K on the clock. When I had everything apart I replaced the clutch. The dual mass flywheel (DMF) was still in excellent shape and choose not to replace it. I figured it would make it another 60K. I think I would only bleed the clutch and wait until more definate signs appear. A new clutch is cheap $350 compared to labor ($1,500) and the DMF is another $900+.

Good luck!

Put the image on a CD and place in CD in CD drive

Very good, thanks for posting!

Did a clutch replacement last winter. I also replaced my RMS, IMS and AOS while I had everything apart. Here is a link HERE for more info and additional links. The hardest part for me was the 10 mm triple square tranny bell housing bolt.

Good luck!

+1 on Sumitomo HTR Z III. Just replaced my rears for the second time with them. Great price at Tire Rack

$79.00 Fronts and $99.00 Rears for 17" plus shipping and installation. See them HERE