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Posts posted by kbrandsma

  1. Great toys, including the VW microbus!  Nice! 


    In the States they sell "Simple Green" which works great for engine cleaning.  Just hose with water, spray on "Simple Green", let set and gently wipe with cloth and repeat.  Not sure what they sell in the UK that would be similar. You may need to push it out of the garage thou to avoid water in the garage.




    Also,  make sure you mark your serpentine belt and re-install it in the small rotational direction before removal.  Unless of coarse you plan on installing a new one. New belts are bi-directional but once used they need to be re-installed in the same direction.

  2. It depends, the older tops have a plug to connect while the newer ones do not. You may have a newer top on an older model.  I don't have a MY01 CAB Owner's Manual.   If you do, check and see what the connection instructions are. 


    Maybe someone with an MY02 can check the manual for it's connection. There is also 2 different types of rear posts connections as well.    

  3. 9 to 10 hours labor and a $10 part.


    Indy $90-150/hr.   Dealership $175-$300/hr. differs by city and geographical area.


    I would keep oil topped off, have your cam angles checked with a Durametric (+/- 6 degrees) and next oil change have oil analyzed. If it truly is a small RMS leak, I would wait until a few more miles and then replace along with clutch, IMS,RMS, etc.


    If RMS starts leaking more, you also run the risk of oil saturation on the clutch pressure plate in which case you'll need to replace the clutch sooner anyway.

  4. It sounds like the small drip may be a leak in the rear main seal ( RMS).  Not sure how many miles you have but to get to the RMS you have to drop the transmission and it's best to do several maintenance items like clutch, check flywheel, IMS etc. The cost of the labor to get to these items (9-10 hours) is a big consideration and is why it is best to take care of as many items as possible when the tranny is dropped.  If the little drip gets worse, oil saturating your clutch pressure plate is a real possibility. If your MY00 has 100K-KM (60K miles) or more it's probably time.

  5. Removing the Alternator is straight forward  There's a great write up HERE


    It also includes discussion on replacing the voltage regulator.


    I would still recommend becoming a Renntech Contributor to have full access to other technical resources on Renntech like DIY, Technical Service Bulletins (TSB's) etc.  Sign up HERE


    Good luck!

  6. Sounds like you may be on to something and that the alternator maybe the culprit.  This is pretty common and is usually caused by a faulty diode on the alternator.  Some replace their entire alternator which is quite expensive or you can simple buy the appropriate Bosch replacement diode and replace that for under $50.


    As Ahsai mentioned don't short the positive side to ground.  :cursing:


    Here's a video showing a similar problem. 



    Good luck and keep us posted.

  7. It sounds like you have a door lock microswitch problem in the door as the cars still thinks the door is shut/locked and window stays down or goes back up.


    The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately.  


    Part Numbers:

    Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.xx (Same both sides)  (<$50US)

    Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.xx (Left) / 996.613.126.xx(Right)

    (xx is latest version)

    The door lock microswitches are not available separately, and you have to buy the complete door lock assembly, at a cost of around $220US or so.


    I would recommend becoming a contributing member to access the DIY section.   Everything you need to know about door microsensors/switches can be found here in a article posted by member Richard Hamilton.



  8. I would just unplug the light in the front bonnet to take it offline and leave trunk open.  For the driver's door, leave it open and use a screwdriver to flip the latch to trick the car the door is closed.  You now have access to the fuse panel.  Remove the negative battery cable and then connect the VOM meter by clamping it in series between battery and negative cable.  Place the VOM meter in AMP mode and get reading.  Normal should be in neighborhood of 50 milliamps (ma) +/- 10 ma or so after some systems start to power down. Watching the VOM you can then pull a fuse one at a time. I'd start with the fuse that runs the alarm horns.


    If you Google "parasitic battery drain" on Renntech or other sites you should get additional information. The Renntech Google syntax is below.




    I would recommend becoming a Renntech Contributor to have full access to other technical resources on Renntech like DIY, Technical Service Bulletins (TSB's) etc.  Sign up HERE Good luck!

  9. It's fairly straight forward.

    1. Find the screw on the trim ring in the upper middle. Remove the screw. Gently but firmly remove the ring, not the grill.

    2. Once the ring is off, you then can remove the grill. It has 3 attachment pegs, push each one through it's clip and then you can remove the grill.


    3. You will see the snorkel in the hole. Firmly hold it and rock it back and forth while gently pulling. There are no screws used to attach the plastic snorkel. Wear gloves as it is not uncommon to cut yourself when the snorkel breaks free.

    4. Assembly is in the reverse order.

    Takes 10-15 minutes tops! Good luck!

    Here is a DIY project on Renntech, under DIY Projects/Mods in 986 section that provides more information and photos by juniinc.


    I would recommend you consider being a contributing member to have full access to the DIY sections of Renntech. You won't be sorry!

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