kbrandsma

You might want to get your motor serial number to determine if the original engine has already been replaced once before.  Renntech Contributing Member Mdragon went to upgrade her 2003 996 IMS only to find out that the original engine was already replaced by Porsche and the replacement engine had the newer IMS that can't be upgraded. 

I still recommend to keep the oil topped off, have your cam angles checked with a Durametric (+/- 6 degrees) and next oil change have oil analyzed. A failing IMS with have Cam anglr problems and oil anaylsis will also be a telltale sign.  If it truly is a small RMS leak, I would wait until a few more miles and then replace along with clutch, IMS,RMS, etc.

If RMS starts leaking more, you also run the risk of oil saturation on the clutch pressure plate in which case you'll need to replace the clutch sooner anyway.

Lots of good information in these searches.

PRESS HERE

I'm not sure what year your Porsche is, as your Profile doesn't specify.  The PCM is very common.  Check this thread out.

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Fix_Sticky_Radio_Buttons.html

As far as the passenger side umbrella tray, just replace the pad.

There are only a handful of screws and a rivets.  If this project is beyond your talents, you are in for very expensive Porsche maintenance and repair bills. On a scale of 1-10 with 10 being most difficult, this is a 3. 

Get in there and get your hands dirty!

Is it possible the wiring harness from the alternator to the battery (+) supply post has shorted?

fpb11 - For your MY03 then nothing else is done to activate the rear window defroster?

I've installed double din sound systems in both dash types, but never tried a swap of the central horseshoe/vents.  You may have to try it and let us know.  You could probably pick up a used newer version online.  Removing the dins is pretty straight forward.

Might want to follow this thread.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/48867-2000-porsche-996-battery-drains-the-alarm-horn-is-a-constant-3v-and-hums/

I think it might be wise to also get a second opinion on the alternator.

Great toys, including the VW microbus!  Nice! 

In the States they sell "Simple Green" which works great for engine cleaning.  Just hose with water, spray on "Simple Green", let set and gently wipe with cloth and repeat.  Not sure what they sell in the UK that would be similar. You may need to push it out of the garage thou to avoid water in the garage.

Also,  make sure you mark your serpentine belt and re-install it in the small rotational direction before removal.  Unless of coarse you plan on installing a new one. New belts are bi-directional but once used they need to be re-installed in the same direction.

Some create a special vacuum attachment tool (like a crevice tool) to clean it.  I remove front bumper each year and clean out behind AC consensors and center radiator.

Sounds like you have a two stalk system (upper left stalk and upper right stalk) with no cruise control or On-Board Computer (OBC).

It's not uncommon for the hi-low beam switch to need to be replaced. 

New 2 stalk steering column switch - part # 996.613.213.10 lists for about $175.

It depends, the older tops have a plug to connect while the newer ones do not. You may have a newer top on an older model.  I don't have a MY01 CAB Owner's Manual.   If you do, check and see what the connection instructions are. 

Maybe someone with an MY02 can check the manual for it's connection. There is also 2 different types of rear posts connections as well.    

9 to 10 hours labor and a $10 part.

Indy $90-150/hr.   Dealership $175-$300/hr. differs by city and geographical area.

I would keep oil topped off, have your cam angles checked with a Durametric (+/- 6 degrees) and next oil change have oil analyzed. If it truly is a small RMS leak, I would wait until a few more miles and then replace along with clutch, IMS,RMS, etc.

If RMS starts leaking more, you also run the risk of oil saturation on the clutch pressure plate in which case you'll need to replace the clutch sooner anyway.

It sounds like the small drip may be a leak in the rear main seal ( RMS).  Not sure how many miles you have but to get to the RMS you have to drop the transmission and it's best to do several maintenance items like clutch, check flywheel, IMS etc. The cost of the labor to get to these items (9-10 hours) is a big consideration and is why it is best to take care of as many items as possible when the tranny is dropped.  If the little drip gets worse, oil saturating your clutch pressure plate is a real possibility. If your MY00 has 100K-KM (60K miles) or more it's probably time.

You'll need a 5mm Hex allen wrench to remove the coolant plug.

Great, sounds like you got it replaced!

^{Nice!  Good work Poze123!}

10mm ratchet box wrench works great.  Here is a DIY write up that might help.

PRESS HERE

Removing the Alternator is straight forward  There's a great write up HERE

It also includes discussion on replacing the voltage regulator.

I would still recommend becoming a Renntech Contributor to have full access to other technical resources on Renntech like DIY, Technical Service Bulletins (TSB's) etc.  Sign up HERE

Good luck!

Sounds like you may be on to something and that the alternator maybe the culprit.  This is pretty common and is usually caused by a faulty diode on the alternator.  Some replace their entire alternator which is quite expensive or you can simple buy the appropriate Bosch replacement diode and replace that for under $50.

As Ahsai mentioned don't short the positive side to ground.  :cursing:

Here's a video showing a similar problem. 

https://youtu.be/2x0o4-bNCvY

Good luck and keep us posted.

Nice, post more photos!

It sounds like you have a door lock microswitch problem in the door as the cars still thinks the door is shut/locked and window stays down or goes back up.

The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately.  

Part Numbers:

Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.xx (Same both sides)  (<$50US)

Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.xx (Left) / 996.613.126.xx(Right)

(xx is latest version)

The door lock microswitches are not available separately, and you have to buy the complete door lock assembly, at a cost of around $220US or so.

I would recommend becoming a contributing member to access the DIY section.   Everything you need to know about door microsensors/switches can be found here in a article posted by member Richard Hamilton.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/217-door-microswitches/

You can lower the top and that turns off the sensor too!

I would just unplug the light in the front bonnet to take it offline and leave trunk open.  For the driver's door, leave it open and use a screwdriver to flip the latch to trick the car the door is closed.  You now have access to the fuse panel.  Remove the negative battery cable and then connect the VOM meter by clamping it in series between battery and negative cable.  Place the VOM meter in AMP mode and get reading.  Normal should be in neighborhood of 50 milliamps (ma) +/- 10 ma or so after some systems start to power down. Watching the VOM you can then pull a fuse one at a time. I'd start with the fuse that runs the alarm horns.

If you Google "parasitic battery drain" on Renntech or other sites you should get additional information. The Renntech Google syntax is below.

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=parasitic+battery+drain+multimeter+site:www.renntech.org

I would recommend becoming a Renntech Contributor to have full access to other technical resources on Renntech like DIY, Technical Service Bulletins (TSB's) etc.  Sign up HERE Good luck!