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Posts posted by kbrandsma

  1. I recently replace my AOS and the middle oil filler tube. The middle oil filler tube goes from just inside the engine compartment to near the throttle body. On mine it had a mesh sock that is designed to protect it fro the heat in the engine department. It connects to another tube that connect to the engine. When I tried to replace the middle tube, I was not very careful and I snapped the ears off the tube that connects to the engine.

    here is a link to the project as posted in the 986forum


    To replace it you need to remove the tube between the the intake manifolds. It is pretty straight foraward. Some remove the intake on the passenger side (6 bolts) but I was able to install without removing it.

    Good luck.

    K. Brandsma

    98 Boxster

  2. Hi Jay,

    I recently bought the same kit. In the directions they will explain how to use the existing trim kit to fit the opening your suggesting. I placed my AC in the bottom DIN and purchased that trim piece from Sunset Porsche for less than $10.00 including shipping.

    Good Luck! Getting ready to complete my installation this coming week.

  3. I purchased the Pioneer AVIC D-3 and was trying to confirm the hook-up for the rear speaker kit. The rear speakers are currently installed in my CDR-220 Radio via the brown plug to the middle slot in the rear of the radio.

    Has anyone done this HU upgrade and if so did you also connect your rear speakers and if so where?

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

  4. The higher the better. I did mine with half the distance george996 suggests. Also #5 is removed from the front of the car, just the opposite of the other seven. I removed number 1 from up above. To get to #1, I removed the tube from the air filter to the TB and that made #1 very accessible and easy to remove.

    I purchased the 10mm trible square from Autozone, brand name OEM. It comes with a set of three, 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm. I took the 10mm to a local muffler shop and they cut it in half to get it down to a length that would fit. The space is tight around the 10mm triplesquare bolt. SOme people permanently weld a wrench to gain the leverage needed.

    Good luck!

  5. Make sure you cleaned the teeth of the drive shaft. The manual also says to apply a thin coat of grease to the shaft. (Olista Longtime 3 EP or equivalent.) I used a synthetic high temperature grease and the transmission went effortlessly in.

    Did you remove the dual mass flywheel ( DMF) and if so have you removed anything that was used to hold the DMF stationary while you torqued the bolts.I'm just trying to think what else might be getting in the way.

  6. I would second the Zaino Brothers' SYstem including their clay bar.

    The link below is after a wash with dawn, clay bar and four coats of Zaino after my purchase in July 07 of my 98 2.5 l Boxster. I used Zaino's #5 wax, then #2 wax, then #5 wax and then I finished with #2 wax. I used the Ultra Clean Gloss Enhancer #6 between wax coats and I touch up with #6 spray as needed after a quick dusting with my California Duster. I wash monthly with Zaino washing soap. No swirls and daily compliments.

    Press view slide show after opening this link.

  7. If oil is coming out of the transmission crankcase housing where it bolts on to the engine block, you may have an RMS issue. Hard to say without better photo shots. The only reason to take it apart would be to confirm a RMS leak or not. A leak no matter how small may eventually saturate the clutch but more importantly the Dual Mass Flywheel ( DMF). If oil gets on the DMF it will need to be replace and that is a spendy item. ($500 to $700 US plus any markup from the dealer.) When people replace the clutch they usually don't replace the DMF but simply re-install the old one. The RMS is less than $25 US, the expense is the labor to get to it. I replaced my IMS because it had a new redesign since my old but original 1998 was installed. The IMS cost about $90 US. A new clutch is $375-$500 US. The deal is that to get the car torned down to really looking at the RMS and IMS you have to remove the clutch and the DMF. So if the AOS is throwing oil (oil tubes and bellows included) replace and clean everything up. Then drive and wait to see if leak is stopped. You don't need to remove transmission and clutch to get to the AOS. The RMS is above the oil level and won't leak unless driven. If you ship the car to US, it most likely won't be leaking.

    What part of Washington State are you going to. I live in Everett, which is about 30 minutes North of Seattle.

    Good luck and keep us posted!

  8. I had my 98 5 speed apart this winter and replaced the AOS, RMS, IMS, J Tube, clutch, O2 sensors and Oil Filler tubes. I was leaving a quarter size drop of oil every other day or so. When I had it all apart to determine the problem I decided to replace them all. The total cost with some additional tools (like transmission jack) was just north of $1200. I figured at my mileage of 52K, it was time or near time to do most of the items. The RMS and IMS priobably wasn't necessary but I did them anyway because of the convenience.

    This photo shows the RMS and IMS and very little oil saturation from them, but you see the cross member (and oil on it) and the area below the bellows (passenger side) with fresh oil. My oil filler tubes were cracked and the previous owner had just replaced the bellows but not the AOS. I was not careful enough in replacing the middle oil filler tube and so I also had to replace an additional one that connects to the engine block. I had broke off the ears that connects to the engine block. If you like I have some info on that part of the oil filler tube I could send you.


    I would check your oil filler tube and replace if needed. If they are cracked and damaged the AOSmost likely is the problem. Check your AOS and also your J tube for presence of a large amount of oil. Some folks just replace the bellows first so you could check your bellows and replace if needed. If leak is still there then AOS and J tube. You could save the RMS and IMS until such time it is determined that they are the problem. The RMS and IMS requires removing the muffler/exhaust, transmission and clutch. If you do it yourself, probably not a big deal, but if a shop or Indie it will cost you north of $2K. I would highly recommend replacing your clutch if over 30-40K miles or if they are damaged by oil saturation.

    Good Luck and keep us posted. IMHO I think it is ok to drive as long as oil is checked often.

  9. The Air Oil Seperator ( AOS) also has a bellows that looks like a little accordian. The bellows can crack and break apart. The bellows is located on the bottom of the AOS. A failed AOScan also cause your oil filler tubes to contract and expand and eventually crack. Both the bellows and cracked filler tubes can lead to oil on the ground. If the oil is dead center and more to the drivers side these 2 items might not be the culprit as they are both on the passenger's side. But it is possible that oil could be traveling down the main support frame cross member that runs from tire to tire under the car right where the transmission meets the engine block. The Rear Main Seal ( RMS) and Intermediate Main Seal ( IMS) are also at this support crossmember. If the RMS or IMS are at fault you should see more of a heavy nosebleed at the support frame cross member. The last photo is definitely a RMS or IMS problem. The photos below and the search feature on this site can help you find more info. Your new AOS will come with a new bellows and you will need to purchase a new J tube. A J tube is a recommended replacement when doing the AOS. The cost is just south of $30 for the J tuble. You will need your VIN number when ordering the J tube because the part is different after 1998. Good luck?

    Bellows connected to air oil seperator.


    Red A identifies Oil filler tubes Blue B is the J tube that connects from AOS to the Throttle Body (TB)


    RMS and/or IMS problems (red X is rear jacking point and bolts into the rear main support cross member.


    Hi there,

    I am new to the forum, and mightily impressed with the great information here. Many thanks to the great people that make this happen! Hopefully some day I'll be able to contribute. I've only had the car for a couple of months, and haven't had a real chance to get under it yet, so please forgive my uninformed descriptions here.

    I have two problems. As of this morning, I am experiencing the white smoke at startup that is symptomatic of a faulty air/oil seperator. No smoke yesterday, so the problem came on very quickly. I'll call the dealership on Monday for that. At the same time that I was checking that out, I noticed some oil spots under the car.

    The oil spots are not huge, but big enough to worry me. The largest is perhaps two inches in diameter, and there are three of four smaller ones. I take the car out perhaps 2-3 times a week, so I suspect this leak started around 10-14 days ago. They are under the engine, a little left of center. There is a square plate of metal under the car with a bolt in the middle, looks like it could be an oil drain plug? There is some oil around that. However I think there is some oil futher back as well, not far from what may be the oil filter.

    I'm hoping that my air/oil seperator has been dying over the last two weeks and leaking oil and that is all. But I have a sinking feeling that that's a naive idea. The electronic readout when I turn on the key shows plenty of oil. I will check the dipstick to be sure before driving to the dealership (12 miles). My car is a 2001 Boxster with 30K miles on it.

    Does anyone have any thoughts on what this could be? Does an air/oil seperator ever leak under the car, or is smoke on startup the only symptom?

    Any help provided will be hugely appreciated. Many thanks!

    John Wink

    Montreal, Canada

  10. I odered and received a Durametric Tool last week and ran the codes. It indicated a passenger seat belt problem. Sprayed electrical cleaner into the seat belt receptacle on the passenger side and used canned air to dry and clean. Cleared the code and light has stayed out going on a week now. If it comes back I'll will replace the passenger buckle and electrical harness per TSB. The drivers side was done by previous owner in 2006.

  11. Okay, I started the engine and turned the lights on and the spoiler nor garage door did anything....until....I pushed the buttons; and as expected, they worked as they should! Don't get me wrong, I'm glad that the switches work, as they should, but I'm not glad that they don't light up with the rest of the interior lights???

    So I'll have to take the switch plate back off and see if I can find anything (I'm old school.....must 'touch' everything to see if it isn't as it should be???) wrong with my wiring.

    I'll let ya'll know if I find anything,


    I did the exact same mods and placed in the exact same spot. I tapped into TC switch for the light and ran to my spoiler switch, which was in the middle opening. I then tapped into the spoiler switch lights and went to the garage door switch at the bottom. By the way I took some clear gloss and sprayed my spoiler switch which had the matt finish and matched the gloss to the other buttons. Looks great!

  12. I don't follow this part.

    "When I went to add the wiring harness there was already a plug (#2 above) with one wire that went to the white harness #22. Since I already had the new harness made I decided to leave the one I found in place and remove the wire from the white harness (#22) and replaced it with my new #22."

    Other than you are supposed to put a wire in slot #22 of the white connector.

    I thought that might be hard to understand. This was strange. Let me see if I can try again.

    When I went to add my new harness with the five yellow VW wires, there was already a factory installed harness with only 1 wire in place. The the clip portion of the harness was not attached to anything (because there was no 4th stock to attach it to) and the one wire went to the white harness and was installed in slot #22. I knew it was factory installed because it was wrapped in the original factory black tape with all other wires . I probably should of snapped a photo. Go Figure!

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