kbrandsma

The flex in the oil filler tube is not there to handle vibration but to make the tight corner immediately after leaving the trunk. Here is a shot of mine (without) the mesh sock. The photo is from the underneath side. I had my tranny out to replace the RMS and clutch this winter and also replaced the oil filler tubes. You can also see my label from this angle. The oil filler tube can only go in one way and matches the slots or groves for the keys on each tube on the ends respectively.

Sunset Porsche can get the part no and price for the mesh sock. The price of the middle tube is about $25 plus shipping from Sunset.

K. Brandsma

'98 Porsche

Everett, WA

I turned your photo to orient myself. This is a shot if standing by the passenger rear tire. The red arrow (A) is pointing towards your middle oil filler tube. This tube connects just inside the engine compartment near the trunk and goes forward toward the engine. It connects to another tube (red arrrow on right) that actually ends and empties into the engine, just underneath your air intake. The tube (red arrows-A) is installed correctly and it looks like the mesh sock is missing. The mesh sock protects this tube from heat. It appears someone replaced the messed sock with some type of tape (maybe reflective tape) to protect the tube or a poor replacment of the mesh sock. The blue arrow connects the AOS and runs to the throttle body. I refer to it only to make sure you are not referring to it as it is accordian in nature too.

I hope this helps! Good luck and keep us posted.

K.Brandsma

'98 Porsche

Everett, WA

I recently replaced my oil filler tube. The accordian elbow is closer to the trunk than the engine. Check this thread out on this board regarding the same topic. There is also other links that spin off of that thread as well. Good luck.

Click here to follow link

K.Brandsma

'98 Boxster

Everett, WA

Hi,

'01 S 46Kmiles

I disconnected my battery to work on my stereo - I have done this in the past to work on speakers, but this time I replaced the head unit and installed a new amp (removing the HAES).

After reconnecting the battery, all seemed normal until I sst the alarm. Everytime I set it by pressing the lock button on my key, the parking/signal lights blink twice (as normal), but after about 1.5 seconds, the horn beeps once and the intertior light comes on for about 2 seconds then dims out. It behaves like I was setting it to bypass the interior sensor by pressing the lock 2x.

I checked the center console, it is closed. I verified that all doors, hood, trunk, are all closed. No water under the seats (never as far as I know), bone dry.

Any ideas what might be going on?

Thanks!

There is a contact inside the radio console. If it lost connection it will cause the alarm to behave in this fashion. When you removed and replaced the HU did you replace this contact?

__

Type CDR 220

Model Number BE4462

Serial Number X5033624

Try 0327

or

0325

Hi Loren,

0327 worked.

Thanks!

Karst

Type CDR 220

Model Number BE4462

Serial Number X5033624

Check this recent post

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=16350&hl=

K.Brandsma

Gustavo,

So sorry to hear about your top. I would consider upgrading to a glass window if doable. I have a hard top as well with a rear window defroster. I think a soft top can also include the rear defroster.

Good luck and so sorry. Keep us posted!

K. Brandsma

Everett, WA

98 Boxster

My airbag light is on. I bought my 98 Boxster in July 07 and the airbag light was on. The previous owner had recently had the driver's seat belt & harness replaced, the light disappeared but eventually reappeared, literally right before I bought the vehicle.

When I ran the codes with the AutoZone code reader, I could not find a fault code. What are my options?

it was leaking into the trans bell housing

What did it set you back?

K.Brandsma

I have that faceplate. I will IM you later this evening.

Kbrandsma

'98 Boxster

Car ramps don't allow you to remove your wheels. Good for oil changes though.

I think the hockey pucks are more to ensure that their is a good solid foundation/connection between a jack stand and the lifting point. Never work on your car when it is only supported by a hydraulic jack. That means for most people jack stands. The stands I had did not mate up well with the Boxster so I used hockey pucks to mate the two.

Here is a link that explains in detail what I did. CLICK HERE

Good luck and let us know what your solution was.

There is lots of threads on this via the search engine on Renntech and others. Here is one I found via a thread search not to long ago.click here

Thanks for the detailed reply kbrandsma. I should take a closer look at other pipes near there for cracks. But my oil level gauge is always full so if there is a crack, I'm hoping that it is very small.

Quick question about the oil fill cap checking method though. Check while car is idling right?

In your case I don't think this would be a good test. If the middle tube is damaged there will be no back pressure to test. I don't think it matters if the engine is running or not, you can check it right after you cut the engine. You may see the tube collapse if it is real bad even with the engine running I suppose. I've never seen that however and I am only guessing.

Here is another thread that might be interesting to you. Check the thread here.

Good Luck!

K.Brandsma

98 Porsche

I found a very little amount of oil like couple of drops in TB while I was cleaning.

Btw, where is the mesh sock located?

The mesh sock is normally located between the accordian elbow and the spring clip on the middle oil fill tub. It is usually about 8-12 inches long. I can't tell if it is missing on your first picture or more than likely it is just completely saturated with oil+dirt.

If I want to correct this problem since it does not sound normal, I should change my AOS, middle oil fill tube, and mesh sock?

Thanks for all the replies.

That sounds about right. Be careful in removing the middle oil tube so you don't break the ears off of the forward tube as well. Make sure the forward tube hasn’t cracked as well, but it is usually strong enough to withstand the pressure. If it is cracked a new forward piece would need to be ordered and installed. Lots of good info on replacing the AOS check out Mike Flocke's site here.

You should also check your j-tube that connects the AOS to the throttle body and see if oil is in that tube. Make sure it is not cracked or damaged as well. You may need to remove it and clean it thoroughly to determine that it is ok. A new AOS may require a new j-tube. Ask the dealer when ordering. I got mine at Sunset, for about AOS $90.00, J-tube $22.00 plus shipping. I have a 98 - 5 speed with 52K on the clock. And they checked my VIN # to determine that I also needed a new J-tube. I would definitely invest in a pair of Craftsman's clamp pliers. The back clamp by the trunk on the middle oil filler tube is tough to get at but not impossible. Since you will be replacing it, once it arrives some people remove it in pieces. (like cutting it at the elbow). They do the same thing with the AOS and the bellows. A new AOS comes with a new bellows and one spring clamp. I would replace the lower clamp with a screw clamp on the bellows. It will be much easier to install

Before the oil filler tube collapses you could have also checked to see if pressure kept you from opening the oil fill cap in the rear trunk. A good sign besides white smoke that your AOS is failing.

Good luck!

I found a very little amount of oil like couple of drops in TB while I was cleaning.

Btw, where is the mesh sock located?

The mesh sock is normally located between the accordian elbow and the spring clip on the middle oil fill tube. It is usually about 8-12 inches long. I can't tell if it is missing on your first picture or more than likely it is just completely saturated with oil+dirt.

The pipe covered in oil is the middle oil fill pipe. I recently replaced mine. When your AOS goes bad it can cause a vacuum in the oil fill tubes (collapse and expand) and eventually crack them. I'm not sure if that is what happened in your case. Heres a link to a recent thread on 986forum.

http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15127

It looks like you will also need a new mesh sock.

Good luck and keep us posted.

I have a 98 5 speed and the bracket is also used to support the engine from up above when the transaxle is dropped to replace the clutch and flywheel and also to replace the RMS and IMS. It also provides a support for the little ear that protrudes from the intake tube that connects the air filter and the throttle body. This is the same intake tube that connects to the MAS. I recently had to reinstall the intake tube and found it real easy once I removed the bracket totally and then reinstalled it once the tube was in place.

13806 is the Bosch number (I think).

Are you sure they are properly plugged in?

Because it is acting like they are not connected.

I cleared the codes and unplugged and replugged the rear O2 sensors.

I'll drive it and see if the codes reappear, I'll get back to you!

Are you sure they are the right sensors and all the wires are connected?

The O2 sensors were new Walker's 13806. The exact codes I received were P1117 and P1121. The following codes were pending P1115 and P1119.

P1115 Oxygen Sensor Heating 1 Ahead of Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit

P1119 Oxygen Sensor Heating 2 Ahead of Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit

P1117 Oxygen sensor heating 1 behind catalytic converter – below lower threshold

P1121 Oxygen sensor heating 2 behind catalytic converter – below lower threshold

Very odd that you would get all four O2 sensors with no heating. Something get disconnected?

I'll need to pop off the engine cover and take a look. Should be able to get to it on Saturday. Any ideas? It wouldn't be vacuum hoses that I spliced back together?

I also was replacing my RMS and had removed the exhaust system to drop the tranny. While I had everything disconnected I also replaced O2 sensors.

Got it all back together and threw a few CEL codes after about 50 miles. The codes are P1115, P1119, P1117 and P1121.

Any ideas?

Just counter hold the motor from turning by placing a socket on the front pulley crank bolt.

thanks, todd. i take it the torque spec on the pulley bolt is such that it won't loosen when i back out the fw bolts?

I used fifty cents of 10 gauge electrical wire I had to hold the flywheel. I saw this on a BMW site and it worked by cinching the wire to the three pins on the fly wheel.

The bolts are those that were taken from the bell housing to engine block.

Hello.

These Vacuum hoses are connected to the flexible rubber sleeve.

You should have 2 vacuum hoses, one on each sleeve. (see pictures)

You need to reconnect them to avoid a check engine light.

The Porsche part number seems to be like regular pipe 000 043 205 01

Good luck

Thanks for your help. Here is where it is coming from. You can see it got mangled and actually separated.

and here is where it is going to.

I purchased some vacuum tubing from Autozone and fixed the tube with a splice.

K. Brandsma

98 Boxster