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Posts posted by kbrandsma

  1. Major service is at 30K intervals or 90K. 


    If you have no records or proof of work done from previous owner, it is always good to error on the side of caution and do some things to ensure you are at suggestive mileage maintenance recommendations. If you are not leaking oil from RMS, your Cam Angles are ok (+-6 degrees) and since your clutch is fine, I would wait for your 90K maintenance to do IMS, RMS and Clutch.  AOS is easier when tranny is dropped so if that is ok I would wait unto 90K as well. 


    Brake fluid should be replaced every two(2) years and sooner if  you track your 996.


    When you decide to replace your coolant, then do your water pump and I would upgrade to LNE 155 degree thermostat. 


    During your next oil change, replace stock filter with LNE's  spin-on oil filter and magnetic drain plug.  Also consider mag filter and maybe send sample of oil to Blackstone.  I started testing my oil on my MY98' 986 at 90K and currently have 150K on the clock.


    I'm of the opinion not to replace coil packs unless they are cracked and/or throw an error.  Spark plug change frequency is every 30K. As is the serpentine belt and in the process check idler pulleys and replace if not operating properly. My idlers have never been replaced.


    Fuel filter changes are every 30K, but I think yours is with the fuel pump (front trunk) and should be fine.

    • Upvote 1
  2. There could be a couple of issues.  If you are a contributing member there is are several TSB's (Technical Service Bulletins) that address this issue.  I always keep a 1 1/4 " grey plastic pvc nut (Lowes for under $2) to provide a space between the gas nozzle and the top of the gas throat.  Some service stations have relaxed emission controls and those pumps don't create a problem.  Let me know and I will send more info and photos!

  3. Definitely the center console aux power supply used by many to supply power connections for aftermarket stereos and the like.  So in your case, It doesn't go to anything.


    Should be 4 wires with one being a ground, one switched power and one constant power.  Its the same type of plug connection used in the North America stock Boxster rear speaker kits.

  4. It sounds like you have a parasitic draw on your battery and from your tests indicate  a possible short to ground on your alarm horns.


    Using a volt-ohm meter (VOM). Connect it in series in AMP mode between the battery negative terminal (not positive side) and the ground cable. Also have all doors and engine cover closed and disconnect the trunk light. Measure your current draw. You should get a normal reading of about 50 or so milliamps (ma). Since your battery is going dead, your number will probably be much higher.

    Watching the VOM you can then pull a fuse one at a time. I'd start with the fuse that runs the alarm horns.  When you pull the correct fuse the current draw will drop dramatically. Check against an electrical schematic and see what else electrical is on that same circuit and then thru the process of elimination find the culprit. 


    You may have to re-wire a circuit (or two) to fix the problem. 

  5. Julie,


    If you ever do get a CEL I have a Durametric you can use.  I'm local and would be glad to assist.  As long as your doing the clutch, the  IMS and the RMS, I would also recommend replacing the transmission fluid with a Porsche approved 75-90W oil and maybe upgrading the thermostat with the LN 155 degree one. You also might want to consider getting your oil tested after hitting 90K and upgrading to a spin on filter.   Remember brakes should be bleed every two (2) years.

  6. I've never bought a new one, but have purchased several used from eBay and and also from LA Dismantlers.  I've always followed the directions (in English on Clockspring) without any problems.   You would think the new ones would be dead center, but I wouldn't count on it.  After installing (and wheels facing dead center and true), just lift the stop and turn clockwise until it stops, note the arrow (on the center part you turned) then turn counterclockwise two turns and then continue until the arrows mate up.  The hardest part is getting the steering wheel dead center.  You may have to remove (redo)  and move the steering wheel a notch left or right.




  7.  The out position is preferred and easier to place some plastic upholstery tools behind it.  You can try small screwdrivers with some tape over the blades.


    Once you pull the black button off  you will see the white switch inside the opening. Squeeze the 2 tabs on the side of the switch while pulling the switch out with needle nose pliers. I use needle nose on one side to push that side in while pinching the main part of the switch, push the opposite tab in with a small screwdriver or your finger and pull the switch straight out.


    I have not removed that switch without it being in the ON position (out) and have heard when you pull it while in the off position you could break it.


    You might try freeing the switch by grabbing just the center part of the switch and pushing it in then pulling it out with the needle nose.

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