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kbrandsma

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Posts posted by kbrandsma

  1. Wiring setup for most back-up cameras:

    * Run a lead from the Dynavin Head Unit (HU) to the rear of the vehicle. Usually a yellow RCA Connector (may also have a white RCA Connector which is audio that is not needed).

    * Run a lead off the positive reverse light in the rear of the vehicle to the camera (usually red wire on the camera.)

    * Connect the lead from the HU the lead to the camera (usually yellow RCA to yellow RCA.)

    * Use the backup light ground for the camera (This is usually a black wire to camera.)

    IMPORTANT!!!

    Don't reverse the red and black wires as you will cause serious damage to your backup camera that will not be covered by any warranty.

    When you put the vehicle in reverse, the HU will briefly show the PDC screen, then automatically switches to the camera feed. When you take it out of reverse the HU will resume ordinary operation. You can also manually turn on the camera moving forward by turning it on with the HU. I use the camera this way most of the time as it removes all of the blind spots that the rearview mirror misses.

  2. Make sure your seat is fully reclined, the motorized controls won't work if the seat is not fully back.

    You could have a faulty switch. That is usually more common. Some take the switch apart and clean everything and then re-assemble. This is usually easier with the seat removed but not required. If you take the seat out, remove the ignition key, disconnect the negative battery cable to avoid triggering the seatbelt error light.

    Make sure you place a tray or something when you crack open the switch to catch all the pieces. Some contact parts may need a little cleaning with light sand paper or emery. If you take it apart use a little dielectric grease to hold everything in place.

    If your not mechanically inclined, contact cleaner can be used as a first step before trying to remove, taking apart and cleaning the switch. Remove the switch out of the seat enough to see the small holes in the switch housing. Using a spray can of contact cleaner (WD40) with the straw type nozzle, spray contact cleaner into the switch and operate the switch back and forth several times in all directions.

    Reinstall the seat and connect the battery if you removed the seat. Then, using your key turn on accessory power on the ignition switch and try the switch to see if you brought it back to life.

  3. Run thru the bulkhead thru the rubber grommet above the accelerator pedal, under the battery tray and thru a second grommet into the front trunk.  Remove the trunk carpet liner and run behind passenger light assembly and then into the fender liner.

    427351225208_0_ALB.jpg

    I penetrated a grommet next to the existing one. Cut an X with a razor knife and then seal with chaulk before you put carpet back. Fasten with zip ties to existing wires to make it look nice.
    497271225208_0_ALB.jpg

    Then remove the battery and tray it is attached to and run the cable in the moat and enter the cabin via the rubber grommet behind the battery on the driver's side.

    452781225208_0_ALB.jpg

    350881225208_0_ALB.jpg

    The grommet opens into the cabin right above the gas pedal. Careful pushing things thru as you can also push the grommet thru. I think it is better to have a partner help you with this.


     

  4. Hi Jetflyby,

     

    Yes, all the lights come on when you turn your key prior to startup.  That way you can tell if any bulbs have burnt out. 

     

    Check battery first, run a test across your terminals of your battery with a multimeter. It should read 11.8-12 volts before starting and 13.8 - 14 volts when started. 

     

    I would suspect a clutch safety interlock switch.  You can always bypass the switch with a jumper to do a test. The switch is there for your safety, so Ieaving the jumper in place is not a long term fix.  If not the clutch by-pass then most likely a faulty ignition switch. 

     

    For more information run a search on this site or click HERE

     

    Good luck!

  5. Try installing a ground loop insulator. 

     

    It sounds like you’re suffering from a classic ground loop problem. Ground loops occur whenever two components are grounded in different locations that have different ground potentials. The right way to fix the problem is to make sure that everything is grounded in the same place (or at least that every ground has the same potential). The easy way to fix the problem is to use an in-line noise filter.

     

    The right way to fix the problem is to trace down your sound system wiring and attach the grounds from components like your head unit and amp directly to the chassis in the same place. Usually under the instrumental cluster.

     

    Ground loop isolators basically consist of an input, an output, and a transformer. The audio signal enters the isolator through the input jack, passes through the transformer, and exits through the output plug. Since there is no direct electrical connection between the input and output, the ground loop (and any interference it generates) is effectively “isolated” from the signal.

     

    Here is a ground loop isolator noise filter available on Amazon for $8.00 plus shipping or free next day if you have Amazon Prime. 

     

     PRESS HERE

     

    51f3-b0EvcL.jpg

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