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Posts posted by kbrandsma

  1. Actually Flitz is designed for plastics.  The text below is from their website:



    • Removes oxidation, tarnish, rust, water stains, heat discoloration, lead and powder residue, scuff marks and more
    • Easy to use cream formula Our signature product. A concentrated cream that is unsurpassed in its ability to clean, polish, deoxidize and protect. Nothing works faster, easier or better. Use on: brass, copper, silverplate, sterling silver, chrome, stainless steel, nickel, bronze, solid gold, aluminum, anodized aluminum, beryllium, magnesium, platinum, pewter, factory hot gun bluing, painted surfaces, Formica , cultured marble, Corian , glass, Plexiglas , plastics, fiberglass, Eisenglass, and Armatel . Removes: tarnish, rust, water stains, chalking, lime deposits, heat discoloration, lead and powder residue, oxidation, bugs, tar, oil, fingerprints, tree sap, bird droppings, graffiti, dyes, black streaks and scuff marks. Not for: Electroplated Finishes.

  2. I have a MY98 Boxster and the valet key works exactly like the other key fobs except no radio/wireless access to doors and rear trunk. 


    The valet key is cheaper to replace.  Anytime a new key is added to the vehicle the dealer will want all keys.  They program them to the car and remove any keys that are missing.  Most Porsches can have up to 6 keys.  That way if you lose a key and add a new key to replace it the old lost key gets removed from the system and your car can't be stolen or taken for a joy ride.  If the lost key gets replaced the dealer may need to have the 40 digit code to add the lost key back to the car.

  3. It is not uncommon to have a faulty bleeder valve.  Part number 996.106.347.02.   Fits 986, early Cayman and some Carrera's.  Cayman photo shown.  You would need the entire kit, comes with 8 hexagon-head bolts (part #3 in photo). 


    Word of caution these bolts strip easily so don't over tighten. The bolts don't strip the plastic they screw in to does.  Priced recently at Sunset for about $75.  Easy DIY.



  4. An AOS replacement shouldn't affect the cooling system.  A Durametric tool can check the radiator fan speeds.  I would check the ratio of antifreeze vs. distilled water in your coolant.  I would also check the radiator cap for the most current version which I think is 05. 


    You may just have trapped air in the system. Check your water fluid level and top off if necessary.  Flip your bleeder valve up and run a few drive cycles, then recheck coolant and close the bleeder valve. If you have no constant or flashing red light by the temp gauge on the console your OK and you may just have a faulty gauge.

  5. If the AOS is original to the car and has never been replaced, (14 years and 60K miles) its time to replace.


    To test for a faulty AOS it can be as simple as starting the car and while at idle, try and remove the oil cap in the rear trunk.  A faulty AOS creates a stronger than required vacuum and will make the oil cap very difficult to remove.  With the engine off, you should also take the tube (J tube) off of the AOS that connects to the throttle body and see how much oil is in the tub.  I would suspect some or a film (that's normal) but if it's filled with oil the AOS is definitely gone.  Having the J tube off will also give you an idea how much oil went from the AOS through the J Tube and into the throttle body. Also, with a faulty AOS the middle oil fill tube collapses and expands and eventually may crack as it gets older and brittle, so always look at that as well.


    A more sophisticated (but inexpensive) testing tool called a slack tube manometer can be used to test for a faulty AOS.  How to build one can be found on a DIY post by logray here on the Renntech Board  PRESS HERE


    Photo of logray's setup.



    Here is a link to Pedro's site regarding the AOS.  It explains how to remove the J tube, clean the throttle body and ICV and maybe eventually replacing the AOSPRESS HERE


    Here is a link to a Pelican Technical Article on replacing the AOS  PRESS HERE


    If you do end up replacing the AOS, there are some shortcuts you can take during removal to make the job a little easier.

  6. Its probably indicating a bad MAF.  I would still do #4 and #5 on post #2 above.  If you need info on a AOS test, let us know.  I also wouldn't totally eliminate a faulty oil fill tube.  What does your engine bay look like.  When my AOS went it also created a cracked center oil filler tube. 


    Your car has three oil filler tubes that connect together from the rear trunk fill location to the 3rd tube at the top of the engine close to the fire wall .  It is usually the middle tube.  Each tube is about $30 US. Be careful if you replace the middle tube as the 3rd (last) tube as little ears that bolt to the top of the engine & hold it in place.  The ears are easy to snap off by forcefully moving it while replacing the center tube. Breaking those ears will cause you to replace the third tube also.


    I'm not sure if you are the original owner or if the previous owner had accurate service records.  Depending on that and how many miles your MY2000 Boxster has, you may end up to doing everything.

  7. First see if you can clear the codes to see if them come back.


    The codes mean:


    P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 Above Limit
    P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 Above Limit
    Possible fault causes:
    Incorrect signal from MAF sensor
    Intake air system leaking
    Fuel pressure too low
    Volume supply of fuel pump too low
    Fuel injectors fouled
    Exhaust system leaking


    This tells you that your O2 sensors are working and they are telling you something.  I would always start with the most obvious and also least expensive.


    Do 1-3 below and clear the codes again to see if they return.

    If that doesn't work then clear the codes after 4, then 5, then 6.  MAF is most expensive.


    1. Clean your air filter and/or replace it.

    2. Clean your MAF.

    3. Vacuum Leak could be a bad oil cap (if you have a yellow one replace it).

    4.  Check your throttle body and "J" tube for excess oil and clean thoroughly.

    5.  If in there is a lot of oil and your car smokes more than usual at startup, I would suspect a bad AOS, test and replace.

    6. Replace MAF


  8. When I repaired my seats, I thought I would also replace the cushions and the leathers.  But after I took them apart, I ended up only replacing the leathers as the cushions, springs and frame were in great shape. If you end up taking things apart, I would suggest strongly considering adding heated seats.


    Here are some before and after shots as well as a part schematic. Let me know if you need part numbers.







  9. Yes,  You can switch sides with both.  On the door side of both seats, you'll need to cut out the leather to accommodate the controls.  Conversely you will have a hole to patch on both seats when you make the swap, because the old hole will be now on the inside.  The patch will be fairly inconspicuous because it will be mostly hidden my the center console.  

  10. 1997 Boxster, 5 sp, silver, black interior, made in germany.


    I want to install floor lights on driver and passenger side.  I understand that this feature was optional?  In any case, I'd like the p/n for the lamp holder/shell - I am going to install it myself.  Since mostly all boxters have these lights, i am not to picky about getting the one for my 97....anything from 1997-2007 or later will probably work.





    All Boxsters have the door panel lights and there was an option "IXX2 Illuminated footwell, (at least in the Carrera).  Not sure about the Boxster. So unless you have this option you'll have to do a work around.


    I added footwell lights on my 986 Boxster over three years ago. It would be an identical installation for you.  It is a very worthwhile mod!  I used super thin LED lights and connected them to the overhead light switch so that they have the same on/off properties as the rest of the interior lights.


    Press HERE for the link.

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