Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

kbrandsma

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    1,103
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Everything posted by kbrandsma

  1. I would top it off and leave your vent clip in vertical position. Keep some extra coolant in your boot. If your light comes on, on the dash, top off with extra fluid and keep vent open to allow air to vent until light disappears.
  2. I would follow aftermarket instructions. Dennis Vogel published 986./996 stock heated seat installation information and it can be found by PRESSING HERE.
  3. It almost looks like a bolt from the cam solenoid for the VarioCam.
  4. This was found on the driveway. It is from a 996 and is about 70mm long (hex head) and takes a 3mm allen wrench. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
  5. I’ve spliced the oil fill tube with a plastic tube with clamps on each end. No issues the past 10 years. The tube was stiff enough as not to collapse upon itself.
  6. Getting ready to tackle the cam shaft compressed steel plug after the winter holiday and ran a quick check for codes with my Durametric. I found P1602 (Supply Voltage Open Circuit) and P0341 (Camshaft Sensor Bank 1 Short to B+). I am assuming P1602 was due to removing power for an extended time when dropping the engine. Could the P0341 code be caused by the blown cam shaft plug?
  7. Thanks JFP, Do I just do the threaded plug replacement on the end where the steel compression plug popped out? Or both ends? Other cam shaft? Other bank? Kbrandsma
  8. I have the same exact issue on MY98 986 5 speed as Dharn55 did in 2009 above. I have 180K on the clock. I recently dropped the engine and replaced cam timing chain glides on both banks and a new actuator/solenoid on Bank 2. While I was at it I also replaced the IMS, RMS, Clutch, Flywheel, water pump, AOS and the (IMS to Camshafts) chain pads. On restart the green cap and steel compression plug blew on intake camshaft on Bank 1 (Boxster passenger side) on the side opposite the actuator and cam timing chain. What are the options usually used? Is threading and adding a screw plugs to the cam shafts that Dharn55 did (above) the only option? Can new expansion plugs be purchased and pressed into place? Do I do intake and exhaust cams or just the cam that popped? Bank 2 is holding do I leave that one alone? I'd be interested in what others recommend or have done. Thanks! KBrandsma
  9. I am replacing the cam timing chain ramps/pads on MY98 5 speed. The top pad on bank 2 was completely gone and the timing chain between the cams was chain to metal on the tensioner. The tensioner was toast and I'm replacing it. I was re-installing the IMS chain sprocket to the exhaust camshaft and noticed a crack in camshaft sprocket adjuster . Using my fingers I pressed it out and it split in two. I'm looking for a replacement and can't locate one. Any ideas?
  10. Part Number of #1 Below: AOS 996-107-026-01 - List $125 Check a couple of places, Pelican or Sunset Porsche out of Oregon
  11. I find myself being especially careful now not to hit the leather as I bring my feet across to get in and out. Which is why the carpet became so tattered in the first place!
  12. Year and make of car? Open relief valve flap by moving it straight up (yellow arrow below shows it down) and drive bringing the temp up for a while. Another thought might be if you may have a diverter flap in the heater core that lost it's foam. The flap diverts the air from the heater or from the air conditioner depending on what is called for. Do you have grey/blackish bits of foam coming out of your vents or on the floorboard? If there is no foam covering the flap the heat can't get diverted to the ductwork.
  13. Sunset has up to 30-35% off genuine OEM Porsche parts. Sunset Porsche Sunset Porsche is located in Beaverton Oregon USA and has been in business for over 30 years. They offer RennTech.org members huge discounts with prices a small percentage over dealer cost. Reach them at: Web: http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/ Phone: 1-888-502-5927 Email: http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/contact-us
  14. When you push the Central Locking Switch (upper right rocker switch on horseshoe) do you also get the double beep? error code Fault indication A double horn signal during locking indicates a defect in the central locking or alarm system, Have the defect remedied at an authorized Porsche dealer. I replaced mine last weekend after putting up with double beep and passenger window not dropping all winter long . I called Sunset Porsche and got a new door lock. The difference in pricing is key activated door locking. If you have that, for the passenger door, you'll need: part#: 3B1-837-016-P The price is $350.66 list and $320.99 net (with discount) plus shipping. No sales tax in Oregon.
  15. Thanks! Took about an hour for each side after the panels were removed. I had to take the passenger side off anyway to replace a faulty door lock.
  16. I finally got around to swapping out the carpet on the lower interior doors and replacing it with leather. Tim Austin wrote an excellent DIY article in 2008 and can be found HERE Driver's Door with old faded carpet. Driver's door showing beat up carpet around speaker grill. Driver's door with panel removed. Putting on new leather on passenger's door with added red leather trim and red grill accent. Passenger's Door on re-installation showing finished project and new leather upgrade.
  17. Yes tough work putting that all back together.
  18. I tried spraying some WD-40 behind the belt pulley on the alternator and the sound instantly improved but soon returned. I decided to replace it rather than put everything back together only having to redo it later on.
  19. You should hear the wheel bearing even if you weren't rounding a corner. Is the noise front or back/ right or left? Did you pick up anything that might be hitting or touching the wheel well covers on tire rotation or on turning? I recently replaced my rear wheel bearings and the sound was like a warped rotor grinding every rotation of the tires on the brake disc pads.
  20. Replacing the oil filler tube in tight quarters is tough. I would start with chasing every vacuum hose to see if one came loose! Also, when I swapped out an oil filler tube once the dipstick tube also needed replacement. You can cut out a section and slice in surgical tubing in it's place.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.