Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
-
OBD II P-Codes - Paint Codes
- Registry
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
danish
-
Posts
114 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Community Answers
-
danish's post in Gears not changing, wheels not spinning was marked as the answer
Thank you everyone for providing useful information.
O-ring for the filter was the culprit as suggested by Brainz. It was broken when I removed the filter. I put the new O-ring inside the valve body this time and pushed the filter neck in and tightened bolts as Brainz suggested, by hand first, and then torque wrenched one turn at a time per bolt.
Based on the recess on the neck of the filter and recent experience, I think putting the o-ring in the valve body hole is definitely more reliable, considering when I removed the filter for the first time, the original o-ring was not removed with the filter, but was left in the valve body hole.
I was able get about 8-9 quarts in. I attached a 12 liter hand pump filled with 11 quarts and let it pump until the temp reached 40 C all the while changing gears a few times and keeping a bit longer at Park and Neutral. It did drip at various positions but when I was done I had about 1.5 quarts left in the pump. I think about a quart amount dripped during the refill.
Shifts are definitely smoother and can't even notice down or upshifts anymore.
Planning to do two more drain and refill without dropping the pan for the next two months to get remaining oil replaced.
Thanks
Danish