Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Just got my car back this week - guys from carreramotors did an excellent job, they even kept me updated with regular progress pictures whilst I was on holiday. Engine was completely rebuild, all wearable parts replaced, and had also the coolant tubes replaced by titanium ones upon recommendation, same for the waterpump. The job also included wheel alignment, airco refill, test drive, etc.. In the end it cost me some 13K€ with the additional replacements, but I should receive (haven't received it yet) a payback from Porsche Germany for the main parts (pistons & engine block). Better then nothing, although it leaves a sour taste, since no apparent "fault" or reason other then maybe 5th cilinder out of tolerance (manufacturing defect) could be found...the other cilinders were shining like mirrors. Anyway, I've got an engine now with zero mileage, 1 y warranty on parts again, end well, all's well..:-) Thank you all for your support & reactions! :-) Cheers, Gunther.
OK - the diagnose is set at the Porsche dealer in Belgium - appears my 5th cylinder (that is the frontmost one from the left bank) is worn in and the sound is actually the piston hitting against the cylinder wall due to too much space. On attached picture you can see the damage. So RFM, you were right about cylinder liner damage! The engine will indeed be revised - new cylinder block etc - the cost is about 12400 € (near 20.000$?) which I'm paying out of my own pocket! :huh: It feels kind of strange to have the 2nd hand warranty just expired, a 3 year old car with 95.000km now, and then reading this is a common issue with the Cayenne Turbo. RFM, do you have more information about this? I feel a little bit like I've bought a chinese radio with 6 months warranty; you expect it to be defective after 7 months :angry: ...but this is a Porsche.. Any comments/considerations anyone? I bought the car in Germany, so I will ask for the German porsche center's reactions on this one, before maybe approaching Porsche Germany HQ.
Did your engines sound like this? Mine is going in on the 18th; I'll report back after that.
I've made a small video; should have done that in the first place instead of trying to describe the noise.. anyone else recognize this?
Thanks RFM! They will indeed check each cilinder with a microscope via the spark plug hole prior to taking the engine out. If liner damage is the case then I guess I would better go for new cilynders + pistons etc (complete revision), no? The car is going in on August,18 for 2 weeks straight. I want inform myself on beforehand off course. Thanks for your swift reply! Cheers, Gunther.
I'm having this metallic noise at idle ( tap tap tap) in my 05 CTT (90.000km or about 60.000 miles); when the engine is cold it's allmost unhearable, but when it's at operating temperature it is very distinctively there. (suspecting thick (cold) vs thin (warm) oil is having an effect; that's why I immediately started suspecting a bad hydraulic lifter) When making more rpm's, frequency of tap tap tap increases also, and around 2000 rpms it either disappears or is drowned out by overall engine noise. when decelerating rpm's, and the idle pick's up again, it seems to be gone for an instant but then is there again. I can hear the noise also during decelaration. I've used a stethoscope and according to me the sound is the clearest around the valves on the driver's seat bank, first cylinder from the front. Then again I'm not sure if it might not be the variocam system on that side. I should admit a number of weeks ago I first starting hearing the noise a couple of days after full load conditions (about 240km/h and accelarating when certainly the engine icon started flashing). In my memory I somehow link the two together. I've tried teflon additives on recommendation from my Porsche dealer, and also a lifter clearing additive, but all to no avail. Seems like the only solution, according to my Porsche dealer, is to take the engine out of the car (because you cannot dismantle valves/lifters/camwheels with the engine mounted) and that will take about a week...his rough estimate was about 5000 euros (that's about 9000$ I guess) My dealer claims he has been asking around with other dealers and the importer and I seem to be the first one with this problem. No fault codes were found. Oh, and did I mention my Porsche 2nd hand warranty just expired the month before? Just my luck! Can I have your opinions please? Are there more diagnostic tests which can be done prior to dismantling? Is it true the engine has to be out of the car to be able to replace/inspect the hydraulic lifters? Does 1 week sound right to you for that? (my dealer argued it is a turbo..) Any other known common sources of this kind of noise? (I've been reading about a pulley producing a more plastic clack clack noise, but this is clearly a metallic noise...) Should dismantling of the engine be the only option, would you recommend to change anything else? (thinking about bearings, piston rings, etc) Your feedback is greatly appreciated! Cheers, Gunther
gunzie started following 2004 Navteq CD - updated maps?, metallic noise - tap tap tap - CTT05 - bad lifter?, Replica Wheels (Porsche Technique) and and 2 others
I turn my PSM to "off" every now and then, but not always. It isn't really practical for driving slowly around town... always holding 3rd gear, etc. Sometimes I upshift with the tiptronic controls on the wheel in combination with PSM off. It is certainly the way to go for spirited driving. Same here...turn it off now & then but generally drive with it on...the standard program has been optimized for fuel economy and thus emissions/CO2...great for commuting.. Chipping will yield more engine torque, thus indirectly affecting gearbox behavior I rather put the tiptronic in manual mode, making a downshift with the stick rather then to use the selectors on the wheel because they will hold a lower gear only temporary (forces it to manual for about 5 seconds, then goes to D again and upshifts)
Is the 589.6hp the ACTUAL dyno number or your guess as to what the crank number would be? Or is it just the number you arrived at by adding up the advertised numbers? You do realize that if you just added up the advertised numbers then you are likely waaaaaaaay off. That's just not how it works. If it was then my Cadillac (supercharger, headers, exhaust, intake and tune) had about 700hp. Post up your dyno when you get a chance. I'm guessing you're only making around 420-440hp at the wheels (assuming about a 20% drivetrain loss). Also, if you chirped a gear in that 5800lb AWD automatic behemoth then you better look into new tires b/c that shouldn't happen at those power numbers. Anyway, congrats on the mods and enjoy your car! It's interesting to see the true (guessing that GTECHdevice is a dyno) reported hp's vs the porsche advertised ones (489 vs 500); with most gen1 cayenne turbo engines the difference was even bigger (around 415 vs 450). My '05 reported 412 on the dyno at the tuner; after customized software mod this was 478 (dyno)...I should go in for a new dyno (changed air filter to K&N ones + coil crack problem solved + fresh spark plugs + "good" gasoline (my tuner claims in Belgium shell & jet give a measurable difference) should yield around 500hp..) cheers, Gunther
Hi, My 05 CTT does the same - when you kick-down it actually makes you wonder if the car is asking "oh you want to go faster?" for a second, and then takes off like a rocket after shifting down 2 gears...this can be hazardous in overtaking attempts...so indeed I put it in manual or use the tip and shift down 2 gears before flooring it... I've also noticed with the PSM off, the car shifts noticeably faster, but doesn't upshift anymore (at least in high gears as described below/ I need to verify that) Only downside to driving with PSM off is you disable all safety measures. So no, I'm also not happy with the response to the gaspedal - note that my transmission shifts very smoothly, no issues there. I might go for a testdrive with one of the newer models to see if it behaves in the same way. To me, this is the biggest turn-off for the car, especially when comparing eg with the new BMW X5 I wish some of the tuners would come out with their own "sporty transmission" update. Cheers, G.
Hi, I even have 22"x10" on a Gen1 with Toyo Proxes ST 295/30/22 - some considerations : -I don't think your wheel arches will be the problem, but watch the ET (einpresstiefe or offset) -in my turbo there's a tyre size setting for the TPMS to be made; (Summer 275/40/20 is the biggest selectable in the menu), I lost TPMS functionality and I'm guessing the nav computer also uses this to compensate distance errors. -you're fuel consumption will slightly increase due to higher roll resistance (so slightly less acceleration power & slightly less top speed as well) - I felt the difference from upgrading from 275/40/20 to 295/30/22.. -maybe the most important consideration : my rims always touch the curbs first, the tire wall isn't protecting them anymore...(well depends on your personal situation off course...I'm living in Belgium, Europe where we have tight parking spaces/narrow streets in the cities so curb rash is inevitable in this case; California is a different story I guess..) -..but it makes your car look **** sweet! (even the 20" looks "small" on the Cayenne) Have fun! Gunther.
If I'm not mistaken the difference between the Turbo S and the regular Turbo is already a higher turbo pressure (+200 psi?) and bigger brakes..so you've got a decent setup already...probably little luck with chip tuning there... you might want to checkout the famous ruf porsche tuner in Germany...fitting bigger turbo's+wastegate etc will yield ya over 600hp but will typically set you back 20.000$
I've got a 2005 DVD (Europe), what do you want to know? I've also contacted Navteq about updates; same bull**** answer, no updates available, contact your porsche dealer, and at my porsche dealer can't even tell me if it's worth upgrading (number of streets/cities/POI's added etc) How are you progressing with the project?
I have etabeta tettsut's 22"x10" with Toyo Proxes ST 295/30 on it - upgrade from OEM Techno 20" with 275/40 - and I have to say it didn't take a week to get curb rash on all my wheels, and I never had this problem with the 20" OEM's (more tyre protection). Ride comfort is not notably different (air suspension) on belgian blocks. More precise steering however. Agree with the TUV approval, but the curb rash is annoying. If anyone can recommend a tyre over the 295/30 Toyo Proxes ST with some more sidewall, I'll be thankful. Oh, and the 295 width over 275 also partially annihilated my power advantage from the chip upgrade (480hp). Cheers, G. Couldnt agree more. If wheels have been TUV certified I dont see why they should be necessarily inferior...aside from perceived superiority you get in justifying the extra $$$ shelled out for non-reps....
My 2005 Cayenne turbo (81000km) uses about 2 liters in 5000km - I've heard especially the turbo is an oil-eater. I'm using castrol 10W60 instead of prescribed 10W40 in Europe upon dealer recommendation. Oil consumption can be initially higher (due to engine not yet ran in), so continue monitoring it happy cleaning! Gunzie
Hi, I payed about 80 euro for it - had no problems ordering it in Belgium. I'm not happy with the sound quality of both the speakers and the mike, especially not when comparing with the sound quality of the original GSM module. So I use the original GSM module more often, despite the clumsy telephone book.