Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

HairyPotter

Members
  • Posts

    36
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by HairyPotter

  1. When I start up my 98 Boxster, I get a white smoke coming from my exhaust. The smoke goes away after I drive it but it's every time I start the car in the morning regardless of weather condition. Is this is a serious problem? My boxster is a manual and has 63K miles. Appreciate any feedback.

    Thanks,

    Tom

    Possible cause is the AOS (air oil separator); I'd advise having a look inside the air inlet pipes on the top of the engine for oil (a little oil makes a lot of smoke). Fairly cheap and easy fix if you're a DIY'er - I think there's a guide on here somewhere.

  2. BTW... a single beep means there is a fault. Two beeps means there is an alarm failure.

    My '00 Box just started doing this (2 beeps then unlocks)... I can't seem to lock the doors using either the remote or with the key in the door. Is there a quick fix? I don't like the idea of my car sitting on the drive with no security whatsoever!

    There may be a quick fix - but first you need to hook up the Durametric software, a PST2 or PIWIS to find out where the alarm fault is.

    Cheers Loren; figured out how to lock it at least (2 quick stabs on the remote or 3 turns of the key in the doorlock) so at least there's some security.

  3. BTW... a single beep means there is a fault. Two beeps means there is an alarm failure.

    My '00 Box just started doing this (2 beeps then unlocks)... I can't seem to lock the doors using either the remote or with the key in the door. Is there a quick fix? I don't like the idea of my car sitting on the drive with no security whatsoever!

  4. Get someone with durametric software to monitor the o2 values as you drive. That's about the best way to see if you're running lean. However I sure do think that would cause a CEL but it's entirely passable that you're just on the limit.

    good idea - my neighbour plugged his new durametric in yesterday while I was putting the sport headers back on and no faults were stored - I'll get him to bring it along for a drive

  5. My 2000 2.7 feels like it's running as flat as a pancake. I've recently replaced the MAF and thought it might be poor quality or faulty but it made no discernible difference when I disconnected it and took it for a 5 mile run. The car has an electronic throttle and idles evenly at just over 600 rpm on the tacho.

    I changed all the spark plugs (checked for correct grade) and coil packs approx 12 months / 5,000 miles ago. When I fitted the new MAF I took the opportunity to clean out the throttle body and air intake system as I previously changed the AOS due to failure. I have remade every join in the air intake system to make absolutely certain that additional unmetered air isn't getting in. I even swapped the exhaust headers back to standard but this seems to have made the situation slightly worse if anything (at least now I think the headers are better than OE).

    The air filter (OE) is as new, no CEL, all the visible vacuum pipes, electrical connectors, etc are connected and intact and draw through the oil filler cap is fine (not too strong). I have coasted the car from speed in gear and in neutral so I don't think it's unwanted friction in the brakes or drivetrain. I usually run it on BP Ultimate fuel.

    I'm thinking fuel delivery or pressure - possibly a partly blocked fuel filter.

    Anybody got any further suggestions?

  6. $116... Wow! Can you provide me with any more info on the seller please - I couldn't find it on eBay.

    item no 230342113640 on ebay.co.uk, seller is partsdome (99.6%/6406 pos feedback)

    Got one! Thanks mate - you just saved me a lot of money!

    Arrived (and fitted) today. Took the opportunity to clean the throttle body, the pipes between the inlet manifolds and knock some dust out of the air filter element. Bit hesitant at 2000 and 5500 rpm to start with but went for a 15 mile run to settle it in and all's good with the world! :jump:

  7. Hairy,

    Did u try cleaning it? There are sprays (mostly alcohol) that u can get at the autoparts stores that you can use to clean the electrode in the MAF.

    Might save u some more $$.

    P

    I have cleaned the old MAF 3 or 4 times (including when I pulled it at the weekend to double-check the part number. It helps briefly but it struggled through the emission test a couple of weeks ago and doesn't feel like it's fuelling correctly. For 76 quid it's not worth the hassle.

  8. If your car already had the 986.606.125.00 then the 986.606.125.01 will also work fine as your DME has already been updated.

    Do not use 986.606.124.00.

    Thanks for the prompt answer Loren, I thought it would be ok but thought I'd best ask first.

    Cheers mate.

    Ordered one at a very reasonable £76.46 incl delivery ($116)

  9. Hi

    I'm looking at buying a new MAF for my 2000 2.7 Boxster and on pulling the old unit I've noted the part numbers as follows:

    Bosch - 0 28 218 055; Porsche - 986.606.125.00.

    A seller on Ebay (UK) is selling replacement MAF's for reasonable price and includes the following statement on his ad:

    "Bosch 0280 218 055 For models with M620 e-accelerator, for original 99660612400 or updated 98660612501 Porsche units. Please double check your part number and comaptibility before the purchase."

    Obviously the Bosch p/n is identical but the Porsche p/n is suffixed 01 instead of 00 - does this have any bearing on the MAF working correctly or not or is it just Porsche listing an updated p/n?

  10. 2000MY, Boxster S, 100800miles.

    hi guys, last friday morning when i go start my car, a big puff of smoke came out. i thought i blew my engine. then the smoke slowly burned away. so i did a search here and all the symptoms point to a failed AOS. Along with the big white puff of smoke, i also felt lose of power lately and a fluctuating engine speed when idling.

    after some search i found the part number for the AOS (996-107-023-04) but i need someone to confirm with me that i will need a Y-tube NOT a J-tube correct? i will make the purchase as sson as someone can help me confirming this. is there anything that i'll need?

    so far i had my car for about 7 years, i have only changed the O2 sensors, the MAF and the ignition key switch myself. i don't even consider myself qualify as a weekend warrior (DIYer). but since i was also laid off last week, money is a little tight. is this something i can do myself? can someone send me the post if someone has already posted before? if not, does anyone knows what is the approx. labor cost at a shop?

    thank you all in advance for helping me.

    LINK

    third pic shows a J-tube, if yours doesn't look like that then you need the Y-tube!

    I replaced mine a couple of years ago and took me about 4 hours and was the first job I did on a Boxster. You will need to access the engine from both top and bottom so axle stands are a 'must have'.

  11. I decided to replace my belt yesterday on my '03 Boxster. This was my first time lifting the lid so I snapped a picture of what I found. There appears to be a little bit of oily mess on the top as you see in the picture. Is this normal for a car with 67k on the clock? How should I go about cleaning this and fixing the problem. Would there be any negative effects if I hit the engine with a degreaser and a hose? Judging by the way this looks I have a feeling that cleaning the throttle body is also in order.

    The engine itself is treated/coated to prevent corrosion of the aluminium (sic - British spelling) and shouldn't be cleaned if I remember correctly; might be a good idea to inspect inside the tube from the AOS (air/oil separator) where it joins the air intake system and check for oil deposits, the oily marks could be an AOS failing

  12. Hi All,

    I took my 1998 2.5 Boxster to my local garage for a MOT as it was convenient rather than a Porsche dealer. It failed on excessive emissions, the garage could not diagnose the fault as it did not have the equipment and was told to take it to a specialist.

    Anyway looking at the exhaust emissions it seems to be ok on cold start but once it warms up, it gives out a slight tint of yellow grey colour and i would imagine the rest is just aspirated steam.

    Can anyone put any light on the matter, as I have to wait 2 weeks to get the car looked at. Wondering if it is the CAT or some sort of sensor. I only use the car on weekends and did have Tesco 95 ron petrol in??? EEEEK.

    Thanks

    sorry to hear about the fail, if you have the emissions print out from the test centre please add that data to your thread

    HI,

    Fast idle test:

    Fast idle HC (ppm vol) : 271

    Fast idle CO (%Vol) : 6.48

    Fast idle Lambda : 0.822

    Second Fast idle test:

    Second Fast idle HC (ppm vol) 293

    Second Fast idle CO (%Vol) : 6.44

    Second Fast idle Lambda : 0.822

    Natural Idle test:

    Idle CO (% vol) 4.93

    Thanks

    looks to be miles out on emissions, from my recent MoT test the parameters for my '00 2.7 manual are:

    Fast idle HC: max 200 (yours 271 & 293 FAIL)

    Fast idle CO: 0.200 (yours 6.48 & 6.44 FAIL)

    Fast idle Lambda: 0.97 - 1.03 (yours 0.822 & 0.822 FAIL)

    Natural idle CO: max 0.300 (yours 4.93 FAIL)

    not an expert by any means but looks to be way too rich; what's it like to drive? (flatspots, throttle response, exhaust smoke); has air filter and air intake system been checked for blockages? Is a major service due? If not I would suggest getting it plugged into a diagnostic machine to pinpoint the problem (though probably not at your local tyre/exhaust centre)

  13. Hi All,

    I took my 1998 2.5 Boxster to my local garage for a MOT as it was convenient rather than a Porsche dealer. It failed on excessive emissions, the garage could not diagnose the fault as it did not have the equipment and was told to take it to a specialist.

    Anyway looking at the exhaust emissions it seems to be ok on cold start but once it warms up, it gives out a slight tint of yellow grey colour and i would imagine the rest is just aspirated steam.

    Can anyone put any light on the matter, as I have to wait 2 weeks to get the car looked at. Wondering if it is the CAT or some sort of sensor. I only use the car on weekends and did have Tesco 95 ron petrol in??? EEEEK.

    Thanks

    sorry to hear about the fail, if you have the emissions print out from the test centre please add that data to your thread

  14. Not a dumb question at all, your right it is a bit of a glorified crankcase vent however it does also keep the bubbled oil from entering the intake.

    it's supposed to keep the oil from entering the intake but as it's now on its 4TH REDESIGN we can safely say it's been a bit of an Achilles Heel for Porsche

  15. Hmmm I must not have done my research this time... what's the difference between the "e-gas" boxster, and the other one? Also, I ordered the "J-Tube" so I'm not sure what the part # (or #s) that I need instead. I was replacing the AOS as a precautionary since I'm creeping on 75k. Didn't want to take any chances... unless there's a difference between the e-gas one and the other one where I don't really have to replace the AOS because it's not an issue?

    The AOS is the same whether e-gas or not... the new AOS may look different to the one on your car but it will fit ok. Clean any oil out of the Y-tube you've got and return the new J-tube. Did your AOS come with a new bellows pipe for the bottom connection? If not you will need a new one.

  16. No, I connected the clutch wires and it still does the starting sound without actually starting. I t is like there is no spark. I would attempt to look at the spark plugs, but still have yet to figure out how to access the engine. If I don't get any suggestions, I will end up taking it in next week when the Porsche mechanic has an opening.

    spark plugs only accessible from underneath the car; perhaps your battery current is marginal, enough juice to spin the starter moter but not quite enough to fully energise the ignition system. I bought a new battery for mine last week and that turned the motor over but wouldn't start it without an initial boost from my other car.

  17. Just a quick note about a newcoming 'improvement' in our California smog checks.

    It is already the case that the dyno measures vehicle weight, because what was happening was cheaters would bring in their Ford truck for a test but put some little Toyota on the dyno so it would read well to the computer. So they required weight measure and only subsituting the same type vehicle could you cheat. Well...people still did.

    So now the new addition is that all smog shops will be equipped with real-time cameras that link to the computer and to The State. These cameras will record the entire transaction, check license plate, watch dyno etc., and be yet another step to stop cheaters. Naturally our smog test fees will again increase to cover this new cost.

    America, Land of the Free :huh: I thought we (in Britain) were subjected to a lot of needless nanny-state government interference but this thread reads like a horror story. Does the condition described (disconnection of battery affects running and code output until the car has had time to relearn and settle down) affect RoW models too? Reason I ask is that my '00 2.7 had a new battery last week and I didn't realise there was a reconnection procedure until after I'd taken it for its annual MoT test, it passed the emissions test but the tester had to 'help' it to pass and told me I should get a diagnostic sorted before it did some valve damage. I read up on and carried out the correct battery reconection procedure and this seems to have made a big improvement on the driveability but still not 100% on what is was before the battery change, will my car 'get better' with usage? I've only done a few miles since the reconnect.

  18. It's taken longer than I'd hoped but it's finished (sort of....), got it back last week and MoT'd it on Friday but combo of poor weather and manflu have curtailed too much driving as yet. Total cost (parts, fitting and paint) just under £2k* so very pleased with the end result.

    *£2k including new s/s manifolds, new fixings and a rear box from a 3.2 S.

    post-22560-1212582963_thumb.jpg

    post-22560-1212582983_thumb.jpg

    post-22560-1212583010_thumb.jpg

    post-22560-1212583033_thumb.jpg

    post-22560-1212583048_thumb.jpg

    post-22560-1212583064_thumb.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.