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Paul Fraser

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Posts posted by Paul Fraser

  1. Yes, engine was up to temp. I replaced the sensors about 3-4 years ago with a couple of cheap and cheerful ones. This time I'm going to get a couple of Bosch ones.

    Thanks to you both for your help. And also Durametric for their code reader -- it proved useful a couple of years ago when I had a couple of ABS sensors pack up.

    Suspect that I'll have to replace the cats as well: they are 14 years old now and all that HC contamination will not have done them any good...

  2. Hi, got out the Durametric and got the following fault codes:

    P0154 O2 sensor ahead of cat

    P1115 Resist limit O2S ahead of cat B1

    P1119 Resist limit O2S ahead of cat B2

    P0134 O2 sensor ahead of cat bank 2?

    Cleared them and rebooted the software a couple of times but only P0130 O2 ahead of cat conv bank 1 appeared after that.

    Other readings:

    O2 sensor voltage 0.14V steady and 0.08-0.67V fluctuating

    FRA 1.28/0.94

    TRA 0.08/-0.06

    MAF 1.35V 14.5 kg/h @ idle; 1.92V 44kg/h @ 2500RPM

    The readings seem to point to the right hand O2 sensor being dodgy, but the reoccurring code seems to point to the left hand one...

    Over to you, and TIA.

  3. Took the 986 for its MOT yesterday and filled up with 97 RON fuel rather than the usual 95 RON just before (long story) so that it went into the test with probably a 60:40 mix of 97:95

    Would this (dumb) fuelling error have contributed to the following awful emissions numbers? No current CEL lights and the car seems to drive fine at the moment.

    2500-3000 RPM

    CO 5.09% actual 0.30% Max

    HC 413ppm actual 200 Max

    Lambda 0.91 actual 0.97-1.03 Allowed

    These numbers seem to say to me that the fuel/air mix is too rich. If it is not the fuelling mistake any suggestions as to where to start (I would have said cats but the low Lambda number doesn't seem to be consistent with that; if it were those I would expect the Lambda figure to be too high).

    TIA.

  4. At the risk of teaching you to suck eggs did you put in anti squeal shims in when you replaced the pads? I transferred the old ones when I replaced the ones on my 996, but there weren't any on the Boxster so I just used a smear of copperslip. You might want to try either/or/both of these if you haven't already.

    PS Just read the original post -- the Porsche pads don't come with the antisqueal shims attached, they are a separate part that just ends up sticking to the pad over time. If you take a wallpaper scraper you can split them apart from the old pads and reuse.

  5. It's the driving horn/fanfare at the wire/horn connection under the front bumper. I picked up a cheap replacement set of horns off of Ebay as the connectors looked the same but the internal pins are small spade connectors rather than the pin connectors that the Boxster has. I'll probably go to the local OPC and get a Porsche set today but I am now like a dog with a bone about what type of connectors these are, can you adapt them for a Porsche, etc.

    Will look at PKs link in the meantime, thanks.

  6. Hi Nick, I have just been going throught the same thing with my 996: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=21574&hl=

    I upgraded my code reader to a Durametric to get the deeper codes (I was getting P301-303 initially from my OBD2 reader as well) and confirmed my hunch that the variocam solenoid was unserviceable. I've had two of these done on a Boxster I had and suspect you are in for one as well.

    Which Scottish OPC was it you got diagnosed at? From your description it sounds like Aberdeen but £600 seems well cheap for a variocam solenoid change from them as it is supposed to be an engine out job. I paid around £450 at Ninemeister three or four years ago while visiting Warrington.

    PS From what I have read our cars have an on/off solenoid; later models (post 2000?) have a hydraulically variable solenoid.

  7. OK, had another look at this tonight. Put the wheel on and took the Jesus nut off. The tension bolt came out easily, and better, far enough so I didn't have to take the shock absorber off. After I turned the hub (wheel off again) to the left I had good access and after a couple of good swings at a drift with a large hammer the remainder of the sensor popped out. The tension bolt goes back far enough to retrieve the remainder from the rear of the hub.

    New sensor fitted after cleaning the hole with a piece of sandpaper, Also put a skim of copperslip around the circumference of the sensor.

    My Durametric shows that the associated code had cleared leaving me one on the back right which I think is a wiring fault. I hope so; I can see that being more problematical otherwise.

  8. While trying to remove a speed/abs sensor in my '97 Boxster it broke in half as it had become well and truely stuck in the hole. Surprising as the sensor is plastic cased... I have subsequently been trying to dig/drill it out but have gotten nowhere.

    Anyway, I am now planning on removing the wheel hub and dismantling so I can hopefully knock it through the hole it is in.

    Can anyone confirm that if I remove the tension bolt (5) I will be able to do this, i.e. that the hole isn't blind? I assume the reason the tension bolt has a toothed circumference is that this alters current produced by the magnet in the sensor and so provides a signal to the ABS unit?

    post-2280-1248689054.jpg

  9. Just the obvious one: why don't you try again and if that doesn't work email Rick (Cannell) and tell him. From what I remember of him on the PCGB or Tipec forums (I forget which one) he is pretty agreeable.

  10. I would suggest that they may just be preparing you for the possibility of replacing the flywheel rather than actually planning to do it. When I had mine in for a clutch change (996 with 36000 miles that was getting an RMS done so I elected to do the clutch at the same time) I asked if it would need a new flywheel and they sensibly said they would let me know when they could see what the current one was like. Maybe your garage doesn't want the car blocking one of the slots in the garage while they wait for a flywheel to be delivered, if it needs one...

  11. OK, more on this (I moved house a year or so ago so the car has been mostly sitting in the garage).

    Got a durametric reader (good piece of kit) and pulled the following codes:

    P1531

    Unknown DTC: 1531

    I've edited this as when I cleared them this was the only one that kept coming back. It indicates a timing chain problem, how could this have happened, if indeed it is that?

    Anyone care to hazard a diagnosis and what do I do next? TIA

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