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Posts posted by blitzkrieg

  1. I bought my '99 3.5 years ago with 71K on the clock. Over that period I put on 8K miles.

    Mechanically during that time I replaced one pre and one post cat O2 sensor, a power window assembly and the infamous vario-cam sensor o-ring.

    All in all the car was very dependable and I loved it.

    It recently suffered a failed rear hub assembly (not from abuse or curbs, etc..) and ruined the hub, axle shaft/cv, speed sensor, rotor and some other tertiary items. They also found the front cv boots cracking so those needed to be replaced.

    I've owned a LOT of vehicles in my life and I wish most of them would have been as bulletproof as the Carrera proved to be. I regretfully parted ways with the Carrera today (building a new house and some toys needed to go) but the Carrera is on the books as my favorite car of all. Second favorite was my M3. That is some pretty good company IMO.

  2. Here is my advice:

    1) Porsche's are not inexpensive cars to buy or maintain. Go into it knowing you are not buying a Corolla. You want cheap, look elsewhere.

    2) A Carrera is about as far removed from a Trans Am as a filet is from a bean burrito.

    3) I have a '99 C4 and at 80K miles it has been flawless. I cannot speak to the Tiptronic because I'd never own a sports car with anything but a manual transmission.

    4) I've owned a lot of cars. Corvette, M3 and everything in between. Once you go German, you won't go back. Once you go Porsche, you won't go back.

    5) Don't worry about the radio, if you are like me you'll never use it. The music from 3 feet behind you is better than anything playing on the radio.

    6) If you do buy one, read the DIY and other forums here thoroughly. Everything you need to know is within these hallowed walls.


  3. I don't subject my C4 to winter here in Colorado except for the occasional blast around the E-470 loop when the roads are dry and gravel free, but I can tell you that I've driven the car in snow with my Yokohama summer tires a few times to see how it does and the car really surprised me how well it performs in the slick.

    There is no ground clearance so you would be screwed if the snow got too deep, but hey, these cars aren't built to plow roads.

    I think if you use your truck for the bad weather days you'll be pleasantly surprised at how well the C4 handles in the wet and slick.

  4. No. Regardless of vehicle make the check engine light will stay on until it's reset. When the check engine light is on that indicates the computer has a fault code(s) stored.

    Most auto parts stores can hook up an ODB reader for you and tell you the fault code and you can research it from there.

    If you think it was a fluke and want to reset it, disconnect your negative battery cable for 5 minutes. Beware you will lose all your radio presets and such.

    Before you do that, I would find out the code first to be sure.

    For the record, a survey was done a few years back and the #1 cause of shop visits for a check engine light was a loose or defective gas cap. That will generally show up as an evaporative emissions system fault.

  5. I had an M3 before purchasing my Carrera and while I loved the M3 the Carrera is my hands down favorite of any car I've ever owned.

    I never use the radio because the music coming from the motor is the sweetest sound my ears have ever heard.

    They are a true sports car and ride like one but tires can and do make a difference. I went with Yokohama S-Drive's a year ago which are a little softer compound than my prior tires and they made a world of difference in the ride. They are wearing pretty decent too.

    Have fun!

  6. Well, after screwing around with this for almost a year (I only drive the car about 2500 miles a year) I finally broke down and took it in to the dealer yesterday.

    Here is are the details per the mechanics notes:

    - Confirmed complaint. Found that the cables to the regulators are loose and failing. Replaced the window regulator, tested and test drove for wind noise. OK. Completed.

    Parts: $ 320.32

    Labor: $ 300.00

    Overnight Shipping for Regulator: $ 24.02

    Owning a Porsche Carrera - Priceless

    Replacing a Porsche Carrera Window Regulator - $ 620.32


  7. blitz:

    If you have never removed a door panel before, the whole job, including replacing the regulator, etc. from start to finish should take no more than 2 to 3 hours, depending on your experience and on your need to be meticulous.

    After you have removed the door panel once or twice, it can be reduced to around 1 hour or so.

    Then, with the money you save, you can buy a nice present for your wife. ;)

    Regards, Maurice.

    Thanks Maurice. I am a pretty competent mechanic so I'll probably do this myself and buy my wife a nice present based on your advisement. :-)

  8. Huh Pete???

    My '99 has 76K on the clock and it burns less than 1/2 quart of Mobil1 in 3K miles.

    This car is not my daily driver but I do run it like it was meant to be driven and thus far it has been bulletproof short of two O2 sensors going south over the years.

    While I agree that like any high strung engine there may have been some issues early on, at least in my case (I speak only for myself) I'd say a proper break-in and these are very good motors.

    One thing I am pretty sure of is that my original 3.4 is not going to be ready for the scrap heap anytime soon.

  9. Let us know if you replaced it, and what you found.

    Remember the cautions about the airbag light and disconnecting the battery.

    Regards, Maurice.

    I'm still debating on whether to tackle this myself or take it to my dealer Maurice.

    I'm going to go through the step by step one more time and then make a decision. I've got so many unfinished projects around the house that my marriage may be the better for me just letting the dealer fix it if it's going to be an all day deal. :-)

    Either way, I'll definitely post up what the root issue is.

  10. I just went out and held my thumb on the window while pulling the door handle and 1/16th" is overstated I guess. It makes noise and it moves down but probably only like a couple millimeters.

    Inside latch definitely does NOT move window.

    I can push the window down by hand about 1/4", passenger window cannot and both latches lower window about 1/2".

    You still think regulator Loren, anybody else?

    Almost definitely your regulator. Plus, the microswitch behind the inside door latch may be faulty or it has become disconnected.

    Regards, Maurice.

    Thanks all for the help!

  11. I just went out and held my thumb on the window while pulling the door handle and 1/16th" is overstated I guess. It makes noise and it moves down but probably only like a couple millimeters.

    Inside latch definitely does NOT move window.

    I can push the window down by hand about 1/4", passenger window cannot and both latches lower window about 1/2".

    You still think regulator Loren, anybody else?

  12. Soliciting advice here:

    I've read all the posts that I could find here so tell me if what I am thinking makes sense please.

    (1999 C4 Coupe w/ 75K miles):

    About a week ago when I shut the driver door the window binded and hit against the roof seal while closing the door.

    If the car is unlocked and I lift up lightly on the outside door handle I hear the window drop, but it's not dropping much - maybe like 1/16th of an inch at most.

    Lightly pulling on the inside door handle does nothing. No noise, no drop.

    Using the key in the door lock the window fully opens and closes as it does using the inside window switches. No issues there.

    Am I headed down the right train of thought that I've got a micro switch out?

    Thanks for any advice!

  13. Forgive me here for my potential lack of knowledge on this motor - I've never rebuilt the motor on my 996.

    However I have rebuilt the motors on numerous other vehicles and multiple high performance inline four Japanese motorcycles and the bearing shells on those are primarily made of a copper/tin/lead composite core with an alloy aluminum/nickel coating. The bearings contain very little magnetic steel based materials if any.

    Additionally, I've had oil analysis done on my highest output bike motor since it had 600 miles (now at 12K).

    My experience has been that bearing wear will generally show up initially as high aluminum readings mixed with progressively higher copper/tin/lead readings.

    If you are showing high iron or chromium levels IMO we are most likely talking crankshaft or camshaft surface wear. Of course this is not good.

    Also, FWIW in all of the samples I've sent in for analysis if you scrutinze things closely enough you WILL find little tiny shiny particulates. Its called engine wear. The critical factor is WHAT those particulates are made of and the concentration, and for the life of me I've never been able to determine that by just looking at them. ;-)

    I have used Oil Analyzers Inc. for years and always been happy with their service.

  14. Nice job! It's amazing what comes out of there isn't it?

    Just a thought and don't crucify me, but has anybody tried sticking a lawn vac/blower nozzle up in there a bit to try to suck all that crap out?

    With the small nozzle on my Toro it will pretty much suck the chrome off of a trailer hitch if you position it right, or be as delicate as a toothbrush if thats what you need.

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