KevinMac

First off it looks like you have an 2001, so what suspension warranty? Secondly, the recommended installer is not correct! Page up a little bit and see what the N designation is.

Go here: http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/peex1.html

Go here these should fit: http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/peex1.html

JamesD - better do your homework, Mercedes have a very bad reliability record, at least accrding to rports and cost more to repair than a Porsche. Just an FYI before you hit the switch better do your research!

You may want to try a claybar kit first then hand wax.

Actually you just said they were tested...read your own quote. Well actually I was not wrong: "Specification tires are fine-tuned tires designed by O.E. tire suppliers in conjunction with Porsche to meet its traction, noise, comfort and treadwear needs. Tires are rated from N0, which are mostly snow sport tires, to N5, the tires found on the GT2. The number on the N rating is the number of times a specific tire size from a particular tire manufacturer has gone through the homologation process. N-spec tires wear an N-spec badge on their sidewalls and are available through Porsche's dealer network" In order to meet the stated specs they have to go through a certification process which involves testing. "European homologation step is the testing of those components when fitted to the vehicle: field of vision of rear view mirrors, lamp installation, tire fitting etc. Parallel to those installation tests all other applicable safety- and environmental-related tests are conducted." But my whole point was the "N" rating should not have insurance consequences.

This is not quite correct....I refer you to this thread: tirerack and N rated tires I have used the Bridgestone S02s (OEM), PS2s, MPSC...but my favorite so far is the Yokos...Neovas for 18 and Advan Sports for bigger. "In checking with our Michelin engineering contacts, they confirmed what we already knew, that OE tires are developed in conjunction with the vehicle manufacturer, and their exact design specifics are considered proprietary and confidential. Therefore, Michelin was unable to provide any details on the functional differences between the conventional Pilot Sport Cup and the N0 Porsche-OE derivative fitted to the new GT3. As I siad the N rated tires are tested and designed to meet Porsche specs.

Well since they are doing all the fitting, painting, deactivation of the lid spoiler, and installation. doesn't seem too far off to me. I think anywere from 2200 to 3000 is probably where this would fall into. I am sure they are quoting U a price based on longer fitment times. Sometimes things have to be tweeked a little and lined up.

Had side skirts painted 4 months ago, $200 in a high end shop. I provided the paint code and installed them after they were painted. Is the price U got qouted include the installation also? I am going to instal the car graphics front end spoiler and lip again $200. Did you replace the front bumper. Then I can see paying more!

Being N rated should have no bearing on insurance as long as you have the correct speed rating. The N level just means that Porsche has tested these tires on their vehilcle to meet handling ride etc specs.

Hi C2cab, Do you have any idea what the value of such Mod would be...and whether it would have a negative impact on the engine's life. In addition, I would assume that would make the car very difficult to market if in a few years I decided to trade-up, right? Thanks, Gus Gus, From what I have heard, there are no issues with reliability on these mods. I know the supercharger kit on the 996 runs about $10K for parts. I think the Boxster kit is $6-7K for a 40% increase in HP. Probably another $1-2K for install (just a wild guess). Not cheap, but good bang for the buck, especially when you consider the transaction costs of a trade-up (sales tax, licensing, titles, inspections, etc) It would certainly make your car better performing, but you are right, you probably wouldn't get your money out of it when you sell it. If you plan on keeping the car for a while and are just looking for better performance it may be a good bet. If you think you may still get rid of the car in a couple years it probably isn't a financially astute decisoin. That said, you probably won't get your money out of any mods you make to it. Good luck, and keep us posted. Gotta be careful with supercharging, these engines run over 11 to 1 not very tolerent of boost. The best way to do it is to reduce the compression by changing major parts.

Looking for parts go here http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...CFReQGgodj2UgCA

Try this site: http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm

Bridgestones RE960's - have a UTOG of over 400 and a 40K tread wear out waranty. Not many tires in this class have this! U may want to try the RE 960's. Have an excellent survey result as it deals with traction noise ride etc. Check them out @ The Tire Rack for more info.

ViolaGT3 - The 960's and GY Eagle F1 are on my short list, What intrgues me is both these tires have a high UTOG rating with the Bridgestone 40K tread wear waranty. Both have great survey ratings. Keep us up to date on the 960's.

Very nice enjoy it!

Loren........... superb!! That has made me smile! :D Good because some who think thy have all the answers better read it. The ECU in OBII has a cold paramater that is embeded within the table. This paramter can be changed under tuner conditions. The cold paramater preset by the factory is usuaully in the 60 degC to 80deg C. Once this temp is reached it goes to an off state which basically means that sensor input controls mixture. Until it reaches the preset value, the vehicle will run at another mixture value other than the 14.7:1 This is basic OBDII. So anyone that says that once the O2 sensors reach their preheated temp the mixture goes to 14.7:1 does not understand the paramaters embeded in the ECU. Basic paramter setup by the manufacture and can be changed!

Loren........... superb!! That has made me smile! :D

Oh really, so what determines exhaust temp. Based on your comment all you have to do is wait for exhaust temps temps to rise. Hate to tell U, exhaust temps will run cooler when rich. You are partially correct, but the coolant temperature sensor controls almost exclusively the amount of fuel enrichment during times of cold running. More rich lower exhaust temps. O2 sensor does not come up to temp, open loop mode. Drive the car under laod, coolant temp comes up faster, sarts running more lean, exhaust temps come up quicker, O2 sensor goes into sending based on temp, and it now is in closed loop mode. The air injection system pumps air into the exhaust system, bypassing the engine entirely. Your O2 esnors are also electrically heated. Educate yourself on the system and you'll learn how it works. Better yet, hook up your scanner and measure the time it takes the car to go closed loop, both ways. I agree the pump bypasses the entire combustion process, so now tell me if the entire combusted mixture is not lean how the exhaust temps go up! Air pump simply dilutes the rich exhaust gasses with more air diluting the hydro carbons in an already burned fuel mixture. Combustion already took place. BTW since the coolant temp has not come up the ECU will not have enough input based on the table to actually make the car run at the proper 14.7 ratio, until the temp has come up. True closed loop mode is when the ECU can make very minor adjustments to the mixture. Otherwords a fully warmed engine, based on the coolant temp, O2 input, air temp, air flow etc. will it be in true closed lop mode where minor adjustments can be made. No one is debating if the O2 sensor is heated or not! But when in true closed loop mode the O2 sensor will have more fuel ratio input then when the engine is cold. The secondary air pump is strictly an emission device to ward off the rich fuel pollutants. when the engine is cold! As far as a scan tool your tool measures exhaust temps and exahust emissions? I bet the tool you are talking about only shows the O2 sensor coming up to temps and sending input to the ECU! So no education needed!

Oh really, so what determines exhaust temp. Based on your comment all you have to do is wait for exhaust temps temps to rise. Hate to tell U, exhaust temps will run cooler when rich. You are partially correct, but the coolant temperature sensor controls almost exclusively the amount of fuel enrichment during times of cold running. More rich lower exhaust temps. O2 sensor does not come up to temp, open loop mode. Drive the car under laod, coolant temp comes up faster, sarts running more lean, exhaust temps come up quicker, O2 sensor goes into sending based on temp, and it now is in closed loop mode.

Or you can buy the CD storage to replace it. Here's a place to buy the shelf: http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/interiortrim3.html

Certified is most probably out based on the year U are looking at. So a pre inspection,is a good way to go. Personally just because it's a Porsche it has no more risk than any other used car to make the trip.

This place offers 2 colors black and granite gray based on year. Looks like for the 04 only comes in black. Not sure of the differences. http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/interiortrim3.html

I agree the car does run rich on cold statup, it's in open loop mode meaning using a predetermined fuel and spark map. It's not until certain paramaters are met that allows it to go into closed loop mode with dependance on sensor input to actually try and achieve the proper ratios. The more rich blow by produces more contaminates in the oil, not to mention washing the cylinders walls more. The faster you warm the engine up, the quicker the condensation internally boils off. Not to mention a too rich a mixture for a prolonged period of time cause carbon. No myth!

What i found on the climate control if you divert all air to the dash vents, no need to have the AC on, the windshield will not fog. I noticed it when the control was set to have air released to the deforst vents and the front vents. Was just a matter of pushuing the select button.