KevinMac

We gave always the car's fuel lid as example + the paint code, to match the right color, to the paint mixer or factory.

I have a 996 With Ocean Blue metallic, codes 3AY/E1, or 3AZ/E1, have both the aero II side skirts and front lip spoiler to match. no problem matching the color!

When changing out my coolant tank, I used Porsche coolant from a dealer, it's a light pinkish color.

Kevin, what spoiler did you add, what suspension do you have and what is the front clearance? Thanks!!

Even though I have not expierenced what is being mentioned here. I will say I notice maybe I am crazy, that the addition of a font lip spoiler which I just did, not only improved the front lightness condition, but also seems to keep the temp lower at high speed. I did notice without the lip spoiler a full tank of gas helped.

The spoiler droped the front 2 inches, stock suspension. The spoiler used was a razzi. It was a nice mode on the 2000 C2. I also have the Aero kit II side skirts for the 2002 and up.

I liked the razzi, because it is not fiberglass and has flex to it, paints nice, and keeps me from spending a fortune on a bumper change out. The actual appearance is even better then the pics. Was really easy to install. It fits like a glove. I am now contemplating putting a lip on it to lower more.

www.razzi.com.

Even though I have not expierenced what is being mentioned here. I will say I notice maybe I am crazy, that the addition of a font lip spoiler which I just did, not only improved the front lightness condition, but also seems to keep the temp lower at high speed. I did notice without the lip spoiler a full tank of gas helped.

Mine have mostly been interior updates along with Aero sideskirts, front lip spoiler, Litronic headlights, front bumper plugs, rear wheel spacers, clear side markers, window tint, painted center caps valve stem/valve caps.

I don't buy the HP gains made by the intake and exhaust mods! Think they over state the HP gains. Besides when they state those claims you have no idea what else has been done.

The only thing that may help a little is a tune download based on your engines configuration. Not sure you will really feel it though.

this is my problem

i have a Owner's Manual in german not in english

where can i find a Owner's Manual in english on the web?????

I't pretty straight forward, in the back on the passanger side just above the air tube going ot the throttle body.there is a black cap that says hydraulic. Twist it off and check the dipstick connected to the cap. When the engine is cold the fluid should be at the cold mark as indicated on the stick

I don't see an issue since the 17" were standard and the 18's were an option.

Probably one of the valve lifters is leaking (internal) some oil, not uncommon after a month of standstill. It become more critical when the interval became shorter, every two days or every day when start up cold. However an oil and filter change doe's any harm.

I'm at the understanding starting th engine cold and if the tap noise is there for a couple of seconds it's normal, as long as it goes away!

May I also suggest that you replace the IMS seal also. Might as well since you are there! Some take the RMS as the leaking agent but at times it has been the IMS seal.

I know the 2000 book calls for fuel filter replacement @ 30K miles, think it was extended to 60K miles on newer years. Maybe someone has a manual for your model with the schedule in it.

The way I understand it is to smooth exhaust exit, not for power but to keep resonance down!

I had a coolant tank leak, and I could not find the leak no matter how much I felt around. I removed my tank and it was on the very back side up where the tank gets welded together. I would see coolant on the floor after using the car in the size of a quarter. The coolant actually dripped off the header when parked. The tank would only leak when under higher pressure.

To get the tank out support the engine with a jack at the jacking location, not oil pan. Remove the rear left motor mounting nut, drop the engine and it will drop on the left side making it a much easier job! Gives you the necessary clearence. After i removed the tank sure enough there was an orange residue at the two leakng locations, but dry as a bone. I also replaced the hose clamps to all connecting hoses with full SS ( home depot, car parts stores are not full SS) ones that can be tightened via a crew.

If you remove the tank be careful of the coolant level switch located in the bottom of the tank.

Just make sure you read the fine print. My credit union offered me a Route 66 Extended Warranty when I financed my car. I think it was 3 years or 30,000 miles for $1500. It had a $100 deductible and covered everything except normal wear parts. However, when I started reading through the fine print it had a line that said, "Total repairs or reimbursement not to exceed $3500."

$3500 doesn't go far on a Porsche engine. Might as well keep my $1500 in the bank as guaranteed money towards repairs versus gambling on getting an extra $2,000 out of the deal - especially since I drive almost 20k a year.

Agree read the fine print, lot of these companies require proof of service and by an authorized servicer. So from that persepctive the DYI is out.

Yup look like you have proper combustion. Porsche calls or plugs to change at 30K miles for that year car. But you just poved they can go further.

win911 If I am not mistaken the base were 17's and the option was for 18's.

bohemia It sounds as though the belts seperated and new tires are in order. You may want to opt for higher speed rated tires!

Never posted so please excuse any errors.

2002 996 c2. Three weeks ago, notice oil spots in the driveway, turned out to be RMS. I thought this problem was corrected in the 02 3.6 engine, I guess not.

Took it to my Porsche guy and fixed problem along with new clutch. Two weeks later, It would not go into 3rd and 5th, next day it would not go into 1st (intermittently), Took it back, he bled the clutch and it's seems to have resolved the problem.

Hope you benefit from this info.

Hopefully he changed out the IMS seal also. It sounds now like you have a cable problem. Just a wild *** gauess!

Well if the clear coat has been etched, u may have to revert to a polishing compound. It's more abrasive than the scratch removers but less than rubbing compound! If its really bad maybe even 1200 wet sanding than rubbing compound then, polishing compound. Just be very careful not to kill the color coat! But if it were me, and the polishing compound failed i would consult with a pro.

iridium, will proabably net better plug longevity, but these engines burn pretty clean even that is a wash! After 30K pull the orignal plugs, they are usually in very good condition. So I guess one can surmize if using iriidium, the gain will be, you will never have to change the plugs again!

I doubt any HP gains between a clean regular and a clean iridium plug will ever be realized!

wheel bearing?

Forgot to say that the car has only done 17,000km

You didn't say if the wheels were17, 18 or 19 inch, and the size of the tires, and or if the car was lowered.

Why waste your money?

I do notice a difference when the gas tank is full.

Morning all.

The wife's Cabrio is currently running 285 30 18 rears. Just been offered a pair of 35 profiles at a bargain price. Other than making the speedo under-read slightly, anyone know of any problems using these?

Pete

Speedo indicates 60mph, you will actually be doing 62.7 mph

Stock revs per mile = 815

285/35 reavs = 780

Stock Sidewall = 3.4inches

285/35 sidewall = 3.9inches

Circumfrence stock = 77.7 inches

Circumference 285/35 = 81.2 inches

Well you might notice less handling higher sidewall and probably less footprint, and better make sure they 35's dont rub anywhere.

Porsche tunes it's suspensions to the use specific tire sizes. Personally i would not do it!

Porsche tunes their suspensions based on certain criteria. This tuning provides max performance. The 99 an 2000 were spec'd with a max of 18 inch wheels 8x18 in the front, and 10x18 for the rear. It sounds to me that when swuitched to 19 inch wheels, someonme tried to keep the same circumfrance and overall diameter as the 18 inch configuration by using the tires stated. Unfortuneatley it did not happen and the overall set are actually larger. Hence the problem with the rubbing. I think your only alternative to use the 19's is to switch to a smaller tire.

Some interesting read.

http://www.europeancarweb.com/tech/0505ec_...ires/index.html

This following calculator should help you in getting the correct tire sze. Use the 18 inch setup as stock (rear 265/35/18, front 225/40/18), and then try and find a similar overall size in 19.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Thanks for the replys guys. Bruce I have been driving the car now in manual mode (mine is a tip). Mileage went from 22 mpg to 19 mpg. No big deal if the car isn't driven much but I put about 600 miles per week on the car.

I am considering sending my exhaust to Fister for the mod. I may also try to do it myself since I have a MIG welder. Easier than dealing with shipping and so forth.

After going to the afterhours site, I can understand your complaint. You basically have straight thru pipes. They are pretty loud. Watching the video for internal noise, that would drive me crazy on a long drive.

If I am not mistaken Fister mod is for stock or sport can type mufflers, not the straight thru you have. They route the first chamber to the out pipe. So if you want the Fister mod send him your old mufflers.

Cracked coil pacs, that got hit with coolant! Cracked coil pacs are common issue! I agree with Loren! Let us know!