Meerzee

Bought this unit after waiting for months for the seller to complete the Porsche specific LCD screen. Put it in this morning, simply perfect.

Only difference in the instructions was that I had 2 Torx (T-20) screws holding my Climate unit in place (instead of 2 phillips as mentioned in the instructions)

It looks simply perfect and after doing one, I could say that I could easily do the whole job in less than 10 minutes including prep and cleaning.

One of the best deals out there for the "Rising Sun" syndrome...... sure beats $600+

:D

Good stuff..... :lol: :lol: :lol:

Please do a search here - it's been covered many times.

I am going through the same problem with my 01 US Boxster - need throttle body cleaning....did a search, but could not find a doc on how to do it for the 986...

Thanks,

Gustavo

It is easy to do. In fact the job I did also was the first time I had opened up the engine compartment at all. The biggest issue for me was the stiffness of the intake plastic tubes. You really have to yank on them pretty hard and loosen up the end opposite of the throttle body intake (to get a little play in there) --- I found a few online DIY places for instructions on getting access to the engine, then I just figured out the rest.

If you have any questions, let us know.

Best of luck.

Two possibilities come to mind.

As RFM said - the headlight switch. These are a fairly common failure that can result in all kinds of strange lighting issues.

Once you have confirmed the headlight switch is either okay (or new) the I would guess the light sensor in the cluster may be bad.

To easily confirm that you would need the Durametric Software, a PST2 or PIWIS tester.

Asumming that it what it is....had to move the Box this morning and decided to tap on the headlight switch (pretty hard) .....POP! all lights came on just fine......

probably a faulty unit or dirty/loose connectors? Is this switch really $113??? Seems high for a headlight switch. Anyone have part numbers and best prices?

Thanks!!!

I would usually start from where this specific circuit (cluster) has originated, but u've already said the fuse is fine.

I took a glance at a wiring diagram for this for a few minutes, LCD & analog are fed off of a same circuit - so we can kind of narrow it down that power is fine.

So I'm thinking fault is occurring between the switch assem ~ cluster terminal.

But there are 2 separate switched hot legs(12V+)1 for the DIMMED LCD + 1 for the DIMMED BULB. Probably why ur lcd is still working.

U might need to remove the cluster, terminal 58D is the DIMMED LAMP BULB(GR/BL wire) junctioned with cigg lighter,ash tay,radio,AC control... etc,,,

First step would be to see if those etc,,, lights working?

Thanks for the help. Keep in mind, I have Litronics BTW.

I did a little troubleshooting (from the seat) --- noticed the following:

1. driver's side low beam halogen is out (when parking lights are turned on nothing but light from only the passenger side headlamp) - probably a seperate issue, no biggie.

2. no light from ashtray - pulled the ashtray, bulb looks OK, couldn't tell you if it ever worked before as I don't smoke, but no light!

3. Cig lighter works and heats as it should. (OK)

4. Radio and AC Control both work perfectly. (OK)

5. I turned the "trip reset" stick & held it to the right or left and nothing! nothing gets dimmer either the LCD or the bulbs. Trip reset works if I push it in (resets the trip counter) but seems like nothing left or right.

So, anyone have any ideas based upon my observations?

What's next????

Thanks!

:renntech:

Hello!

CAR: 02 Box S

Problem:

I noticed the other night when driving home, I switched on the headlights and it was noticibly darker in the cabin. I have ZERO analog bulb lights on my instrument cluster. The OBC/digital lights work perfect.

It is really dark!!! I tried to adjust the "brightness" with the trip reset stick and nothing. I was thinking that the odds of all 3 bulbs burning out at the exact same time was less likely than a systemic failure of a system sensor/fuse or something else. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I hooked up my Durametric Pro and see ZERO errors/alarms or anything that would show a component failure (is this normal???)

I checked the obvious such as fuses for the instrument cluster etc and everything looked perfect. Any advice including the DIY instructions for component/sensor replacement would be greatly appreciated!!! :)

Thanks so much.

Andy

:renntech:

My wife's job is taking me from Miami to Baton Rouge, LA. Does anybody know a good independent repair shop in this area?

Thanks. :rolleyes:

I am here near New Orleans (Metairie, LA) --- There are a few decent indy shops in the NOLA area

I would be interested in the names of the NOLA as well as BRLA shops, as the drive from Lafayette to NOLA is not that much further.

Thanks!

I have brought my Box S to 4 locations: (had poor gas mileage and intermittent idle for my last issue)

1. Greff Motors

2. Lindsey Automotive

3. German Car Care Center

4. Porsche of New Orleans

Details of each above: (my opinion based upon my experiences only)

1. Greff -- beautiful shop, extremely clean --- Very active in PCA -- expensive, did good work, but didn't really solve my issue. (issue was only a dirty throttle body) Treated slightly "different" for not having a GT3 Cup (Randy is a little too impersonal for me especially after I drop several thousand for basic R&R work, PPI and cosmetic repairs --- just kinda "matter of fact" - returned my call 3 days later, not the best for service.)

2. Busy shop - mostly Ferraris (high end), some BMWs, some Lambos, not enough space to do any work, it was WAY TOO CROWDED (I watched them spend an hour moving cars around) - didn't find issue, fair price

(Staff was qutie knowledgable, friendly and had some amazing cars - desperately needs a nicer shop but people trust them with their $200-300K cars so I assume they are experts) - I found them too busy to really focus on my issue quite honestly. Never found my issue, just wanted to change my plugs... (just had a major service done 4 months ago) - Will not be going back to this shop, just got a "bad feeling" -- cant describe

3. Didn't bring it to them for this issue, but have in the past. Good shop, fair price, good work --- owners from Germany --- dedicated and know their stuff. Not close, actually on the westbank of NOLA.

4. Dealership, stealership - nice repair shop - knowledgeable about 986/987s ---> actually do quite good work for the same as indy shops when you can get an appointment (only dealership in town) - Would bring here unless under warranty and I had free service to obtain. :)

Summary:

If I had to bring it to a shop that I knew was going to do quality repair work, racing/cosmetic modifcations (AutoX, track, upgrades), and was going to be quick, I would choose Greff Motors. Even though I don't like the lack of personal attention, the shop is pristine and the staff was knowledgeable & was very concerned about doing a good job. I only wish they would have been more thorough when looking at my mileage/throttle issue. I actually solved my own issue by reading the boards here and getting info from Tom & Loren. I removed & cleaned my own throttle body and had it humming along perfectly in under an hour -- my cost? Some time getting to the engine, can of throttle body cleaner, rags & bottle of Techron for next fuel tank. Pretty cheap if you ask me.

So, that is the pick of this relatively poor litter. Cannot imagine you couldn't find a decent place in BR --- they probably sell more Porsches there per capita than NOLA anyhow. :D

HTH,

Andy

Try 1 of these German Euro plate/ frame kit from Ebay!

Hey guys. Great forum --- tons of truly amazing information...and no drama.

Quick question:

I had a buddy in Germany ship me a couple plates and frames to mount on the front of my 03 Box S. I live in an area where we are not required to have front state plates on our cars. So, I have the front mount "holes" in my bumper, but apparently no inserts or screw holders inside as the supplied about 1" screws for the frame just kinda fall into the holes in the bumper. Any suggestions, are there inserts for this purpose or does the bumper need to be pulled? Any advice or insight would be truly appreciated. If I need part numbers then please advise likewise if at all possible.

Thanks in advance!

:D

I bought a kit with a genuine dealer Stuttgart frame, but I am still missing the square inserts for the frame mounting on the car. I haven't had time to go shopping around, but it isn't that important....

I will try to do it this month sometime... :D

My wife's job is taking me from Miami to Baton Rouge, LA. Does anybody know a good independent repair shop in this area?

Thanks. :rolleyes:

I will find out for you as I am here near New Orleans (Metairie, LA) --- There are a few decent indy shops in the NOLA area, but I have friends in BR that I will ask tonight for you.

Big change from Miami I can assure you.... even though Baton Rouge is actually extremely nice & progressive even for Louisiana.

It's hard to say. Some cars owners idle more than others, heavy traffic areas mean less miles more hours, etc., etc.

The engine hours "should" be reset when changing the engine - but I do not think that always happens.

Porsche doesn't quote TBO for their street cars only their race cars (which is usually 50 operating hours).

We have already seen many early Boxster go well over 150,000 miles without a rebuild.

Simply amazing..... I reset my OBC for the rough MPG readings and I am observing low 20s for the first time ever! :) Quite amazing that I would go from 13-14 to 19-21 by just cleaning out the throttle body and tightening up most of the fasteners on the intake supply system. Well, at least fuel is not rushing out of my Box now.... just wish that some of the "speciality" shops could have came up with 1/2 of the solutions that people here on the forum were able to offer.....Thanks Tom/Loren and the rest of you! Truly appreciated.

Andy

From the Duarmetric website...

You can plot any actual readings.

Loren,

Thanks! Doesn't the hours reading on the engine (2132) seem unusually high for a new engine less than 25-30K miles ago? (Car has 60k)

Is this hour counter engine specific or will it keep reporting the same hours on a replacement engine like the odometer does with the car as a whole? (One would think that is was totally engine specific based upon the remainder of the engine variables, details and figures reported, but just asking)

I know from my piloting hobby, I start getting nervous as the engines reach their TBO limits...I was hoping that this engine would be good for a while

since it seemed (at least initially) to have good #s SMOH. What is the TBO hours guideline limit for a Boxster 3.2 engine?

Thanks,

Andy

Once you put the throttlebody back together, grab some carb cleaner and start spraying around the intake tract and intake manifold. There are times where you'll get a intake manifold leak thats minute enough not to flip the CEL but enough to give you the problems that your seeing.

Get the car to normal operating temp. Then go to your garage with the door open and have someone watch your idle. Start spraying carb cleaner past the MAF all the way down to the intake manifold, esp around those connections. If your buddy see's a sudden jump in rpm you might want to investigate. If you can get ahold of an OBDII reader, you can also monitor your o2 readings. What your going to be looking for is a lazy o2 sensor thats giving you somewhat linear readings instead of the up and down voltage their supposed to give you. Every once in awhile you'll get a dying o2 sensor thats just not ready to throw a CEL just yet but enough to throw off your mpg.

Thanks alot for the knowledgeable reply. The idle is pretty solid at about ~650 now when at normal operational temp. It flucuates just a tiny bit which would lead me to believe that there is still some better cleaning to do on the manifold side of the throttle body or it may have a leak in the air intake as you suggested. Will my cheap Duramtric Pro unit provide any details on the o2 readings or do I need to have a PIWIS or other type OBDII unit?

Also, Can you please shed any light on my initial info pulled?

Motronic 7.2

Vehicle Data

Porsche part number 98661866006

Supplier part number 0261204790

Software version number: 004157029210

Number of ignitions range 1 12289 / 2128h

Number of ignitions range 2 1 / 1180h

Operating hours counter 2132

VIN: WP0CB29862S660238

Type ID DME control unit _986SUS02

Order type 986320

Country code C02

Engine type 9621

Engine number 672

Transmission type G8620

Transmission number 0

Radio code 0

Body color/convertible top color 041A10

Interior equipment SA

Thanks,

Andy

Please do a search here - it's been covered many times.

Ok, got it all done. Idle after running it seems to show up somewhere in the 650-700 range. Seems a whole lot smoother and more responsive with the cleaning. Was a little bear to get that rigid air intake pipe off, but I managed. It was gummed up moderately, but probably enough to affect the proper closing/opening. Figured that after bringing it to 3 Porsche repair centers, they could have at least cleaned the throttle body and the engine compartment. I just don't know where the heck customer service has gone --- I doubt any of them even opened the engine compartment. Feel like taping a $100 bill to the engine and see if any of them actually find it.....people are far too reliant on their fancy diag testers and don't perform proper maintenance and customer care, IMHO.

Thanks for the info --- hope it will help my gas mileage out, but I cannot imagine how much more fuel I was using at idle at 1000rpms vs. 650-700 ----

Going to pickup a 16oz of Techron and run it through likewise.

:D

:renntech:

I had the same problem several months ago and cleaned the intake side of the throttle body. I didn't have the proper tools to actualy take the body off and couldn't get to the other side of the throttle body. The idle smoothed out but started to come back a couple of weeks ago. By then I had the tools to remove the throttle body and cleaned the back side of the throttle body. It was very dirty. That completely solved the problem. I have a 2002 S and your idle is the same as mine. Sometimes it's the simple things.

Thanks, Tom.

What is the proper tools to remove the bolts? It appears to be a Torx --- I really wanted to remove it completely and clean both sides, but even the intake side did seem to help. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Please do a search here - it's been covered many times.

Ok, got it all done. Idle after running it seems to show up somewhere in the 650-700 range. Seems a whole lot smoother and more responsive with the cleaning. Was a little bear to get that rigid air intake pipe off, but I managed. It was gummed up moderately, but probably enough to affect the proper closing/opening. Figured that after bringing it to 3 Porsche repair centers, they could have at least cleaned the throttle body and the engine compartment. I just don't know where the heck customer service has gone --- I doubt any of them even opened the engine compartment. Feel like taping a $100 bill to the engine and see if any of them actually find it.....people are far too reliant on their fancy diag testers and don't perform proper maintenance and customer care, IMHO.

Thanks for the info --- hope it will help my gas mileage out, but I cannot imagine how much more fuel I was using at idle at 1000rpms vs. 650-700 ----

Going to pickup a 16oz of Techron and run it through likewise.

:D

:renntech:

If it were my car I would start by removing and cleaning the throttle body.

I've seen several egas Boxsters that idle poorly and 98.0% of the time it has been a dirty throttle body.

Any DIY help on that? help for a newbie Boxster mechanic? :D

Is this a US car?

Where are you located?

I am located in New Orleans, LA - yes this is a US car.

6-speed 3.2L

I don't no what concerning Durametric, but with the PIWIS you can look in the Actual Values menu.

There is an "Actual Values" tab, but it has about 100 selectable items to monitor. Didn't know what items would be the preferred ones considering my specific situation. Would guess throttle, MAF, fuel delivery etc.

I have a 2002 Boxster S with replacement Porsche engine with about 30K on it. The car itself has about 65K - I have noticed since I have owned it (2 months) that I get extremely poor MPG. It averages about ~14, with my average less than 200 miles per tank. I do not drive wreckless nor overly aggressive. I have all records from Porsche Austin where the work was performed originally including the 15K, 30K, 60K service including replacement engine, RMS job, new clutch etc. Car was extremely well maintained according the records. Since purchasing the car, I have taken the car to 3 different Porsche shops to have various misc repairs and maintenance done (everything basically to make the car as brand new as possible - mostly all cosmetic) - and to research the poor MPG issue --- no resolution, but I don't trust the effectiveness of the shops in my honest opinion.

SYMPTOMS:

Upon starting cold, it will idle at 1000RPM then drop down to about 800RPM, sounds slightly rough with a strange idle flucuation or vacuum that will drop it briefly then kick back in at 800 or so....To me, it sounds like a leak, but I am just guessing. I get no CEL codes, but throttle response and idle and definitely the gas mileage issue does concerns me greatly. Here is my printout from my Durametric vehicle log.

Can someone please help me go through this and figure out what it all means? (specifically # of ignitions range 1 and 2, hours, etc) - What tests should I choose to run on my Durametric to check for this issue further?

Motronic 7.2

Vehicle Data

Porsche part number 98661866006

Supplier part number 0261204790

Software version number: 004157029210

Number of ignitions range 1 12289 / 2128h

Number of ignitions range 2 1 / 1180h

Operating hours counter 2132

VIN: WP0CB29862S660238

Type ID DME control unit _986SUS02

Order type 986320

Country code C02

Engine type 9621

Engine number 672

Transmission type G8620

Transmission number 0

Radio code 0

Body color/convertible top color 041A10

Interior equipment SA

Thanks,

Andy

'01S

just looking around, and would like to know what this is and what is it's purpose?

Thanks.

That was a good question, I was cleaning my throttle body a couple of weeks ago and was wondering the same thing. If you haven't cleaned your throttle body, it's a good idea to do so. Keeps the idle constant and the engine operating efficently.

Tom, can you post a pics or a quick set of DIY steps for doing the throttle body cleaning on the 986 correctly?

Thanks.

Andy

Looks great. I have some type of strange road rash/chips on my TRUNK. (yes my REAR hood) :P that will I think require some repainting down the road. If you don't mind me asking why did you get this done, did you recover with Clear Bra/3M protector, and about how much just for the sanding/prep and paint work for your car? How did your paint color match up, it looks great --- but cannot tell until right up close sometimes.

Thanks, aron. Can you post a pic of your mounting location and finished look? I might think that finding square mounting inserts for license plate holders here in the US might be slightly harder to obtain, but I will check PepBoys or AutoZone today....It is Friday so I actually drove my Box to work. :D

Thanks.

Andy

Does it happen immediately, or after the car has been sitting for a few days? From my understanding, the remote doesn't work if the car sits for so many days - by design.

It happens when the car has been sitting definitely more often (if not everytime) than it does when driven regularly....Is that part of the car just getting upset at you not driving it? :lol:

Funny thing is that it is still flashing the alarm LED so doesn't look like it goes into complete hibernation mode or anything.

Is this by design to reduce battery drain or security?

Thanks.

Hi, i have a 03 Box S and I just started to notice that when I arm my car sometimes it will not "disarm" using either remote key --- it flashes red on my key, but no response from the car. In front, on the side, anywhere --- nothing. All I am left with doing is unlocking the door using the key and then placing the key in the ignition just as quickly as possible. Of course this turns the now "blaring" alarm off, but I wonder what could be causing the alarm to stop responding to my disalarm signals from either keyfob remote. (this happens if I try to disarm using either of my 2 factory original keys)

Also, none of the other keys work either, like the "front or rear trunk" which will usually unlock and disarm the car likewise. It is like it is just "locked up"

Then after resetting the car with the key in the ignition, it works fine --- alarm, arm --- perfect.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks!

:)

Thanks for all of the amazingly accurate and detailed info...I think a front Stuttgart plate adds a little flair.....while maybe not the Boxster's raison d’ être, I find it quite entertaining!

Will post pics soon and thanks. :D

:welcome:

Do you wan the license plates mounts (if so, US or RoW) or... do you want BumperPlugs like this...

Thanks for the quick reply, Loren. No not bumperplugs, I want to mount the german plates on my 03 Box S.

I got a set of German plates with plastic black dealer frames but all I have is the standard "square" looking holes in my bumper.

When trying to mount the frames to the car, it seems that I don't have any screw inserts in the square holes, either that or I need different mounting screws.

(holes feel empty in bumper) if that makes more sense.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Hey guys. Great forum --- tons of truly amazing information...and no drama.

Quick question:

I had a buddy in Germany ship me a couple plates and frames to mount on the front of my 03 Box S. I live in an area where we are not required to have front state plates on our cars. So, I have the front mount "holes" in my bumper, but apparently no inserts or screw holders inside as the supplied about 1" screws for the frame just kinda fall into the holes in the bumper. Any suggestions, are there inserts for this purpose or does the bumper need to be pulled? Any advice or insight would be truly appreciated. If I need part numbers then please advise likewise if at all possible.

Thanks in advance!

:D