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GT3.My
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Everything posted by GT3.My
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Will do. Thanks!
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Sad to say, I haven't had time to drive the GT3 in a while. The battery is completely dead and I can't open the boot to jump start the car. Any ideas? Thanks!
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Hey LVDell, thanks for your considered reply. What I'm looking for is to ease/eliminate the feeling (that's backed up by tyre wear) of the car being driven solely on the rear axle. I realise that that's a very vague explanation of what I'm trying to achieve! Unfortunately, there aren't any commercial race shops out here that deal with the 911.
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Yes, I'm running 235/40 PS2s inflated to 32psi cold. No, I've not tried that yet. How much should i deflate by?
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Hi, does anyone have any recommendations as to how to increase grip/traction/tyre wear over the front axle? I'm already running -2.5 degrees of camber.
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Hey, I've got the PSS9s on my Mk1 in combination with 996 RS springs. I've been very satisfied with that combination thus far, though I feel that the components from Tarett (www.tarett.com) have probably made a bigger difference to how the car behaves and handles than the shocks/springs themselves.
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Hi, I follow the recommended tyre pressures of 32psi front and 39psi rear. I measure these pressures late at night when it's coolest. I don't bother messing with the pressures even when I track the car and, its worked fine for me so far.
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I was referring to item 6- the spring hanger. But, I've found and downloaded the PET. Thanks!
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I've got a LWFW, a GruppeM intake and the Europipe exhaust. Lastly, I got the car dyno tuned using a Unichip.
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Hi, does anyone here have the part number for the Mk2's rear spring hat? Thanks!
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Nope, it was done on a Dyno Dynamics. Wow, 15-20%? I'd have thought that that's the figure for a front engined, rear wheel driven car and that, rear engined, rear wheel driven 911s would have a much lower figure- say around the 10% mark.
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After tuning the car (it was running rich before), I've noticed that the bits of the bumper surrounding the tailpipes have started to melt, approximating an appearance much like melted cheese. Also, the driver's side (RHD) side of the rear bumper, immediately next to the muffler, has began to bulge ever so slightly compared to the left side. Now, I think the increase in engine/exhaust temps is probably due to the car running not as rich as before and, that's what's causing the bumper issues. My question is; does anyone know if there ways/products to contain or manage the excessive heat? Like a vented rear bumper, perhaps? Thanks.
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Anyone here have any data on what the transmission loss for a 996 GT3 is? I just dyno'd my car, a 2001 Mk1 with a couple of mods and, got 350hp on wheel. Thanks.
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I just discovered that I've been driving around with the bleed valve open the entire time!
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Am thinking of going for straight pipes, ie. Fabspeed headers + cat bypass + muffler bypass. I'm not too worried about noise/vibration issues. I'm just wondering how the car will be to drive after that. Will there be a good power increase? Will there be weird throttle feel (as suggested on rennlist)? Thanks.
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Right, thanks!
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I've had a poke around but, I can't find the bleed valve/vent. Anyone care to point me in the right direction? Thanks.
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polar, i presume you should be filling up with coolant when the engine is cool so, would it be advisable to rev it up to 5k and hold it there whilst water is being poured in?
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I had a similar problem with the MK1 leaving nice big puddles of water underneath it when parked and having to top up the reservoir every so often. Turns out my problem was the water pump and after having changed it, there are now only a couple of drops of water on the garage floor, which shouldn't be in an indeal case but, it's a major improvement! If you are referring to the MK1 overheating in traffic, I get that too and, turning off the air conditioning seems to work. Nowadays I just don't drive it in traffic unless it's absolutely necessary. I guess these are the problems with owning a non-homologated for tropical weather sports car!
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I get that initial struggle and pop noise too, IF I've washed the car the day before and not given it a hard drive after to dry things out. Though I have no idea why the moisture would cause the brake/handbrake components to 'stick'. Similarly, I've noticed that if I haven't had the chance to drive it for a week or two, some fuel seems to pool somewhere because it makes a loud 'pop' sound (like how unburnt fuel detonates in the exhaust) once I'm outta the driveway and give it some throttle. I wouldn't use the handbrake if I'm parked in the Pits in-between lap sessions, when the brakes really get up to temp but, beyond that I've not heard of nor experienced any need not to.
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Thanks all for the replies. Took the car out again this evening and the hesitation's still there. It's quite annoying but does encourage one to keep the revs above 5k all the time! David, the plugs were changed by the OPC as part of the major service I requested they undertake when the car was in there, hence I would be appalled if they did not notice any rusted ignition coils! Still, I will bring it up with them when I put the car in, again, on Tuesday. Clord, I would hope that the reasonance characteristics of the GruppeM work with the factory's flap timing, as the intake was developed specifically for the MK1 and mine's completely stock ECU-wise. Still, even if it doesn't, it looks **** good in the very sparten GT3 engine bay and I would hesitate to remove it! Alright, so the current checklist of potentional problems reads: 1. Cam sensors/Hall sensors; 2. Ignition coils, and; 3. Vacuum leak after MAF. If anyone has had any similar experiences please feel free to add to the list. I will keep everyone appraised of any additional information I have after Tuesday. EDIT: Thing is, will the above faults/problems show up as faults in the Porsche diagnostics tool? Or will it be a down and dirty process of elimination? Have a tight schedule this week and would like to be prepared.
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Hi, first post on this board, am hoping I'll receive some input on my problem. Thanks in advance! Some background- I recently sent my Mk1 GT3 touring into the workshop (the local, Malaysian (KL) OPC) for a little mid life upgrade- (the ones relevant to this problem are:) had a lightweight flywheel w/RSR pressure plate, a shortened final drive and, a GruppeM intake installed, the former two purchased from Carnewal. After I got the car back, I've noticed that the engine seems to hesitate a little around the 4k RPM mark, just a little dip in acceleration but, enough to cause a little jerk. It happens regardless if I'm on full throttle or part throttle but, does seem to be worse when I'm in either 5th or 6th full throttling from a low (around 2.5k) RPM, whereby it seems to hesitate twice on the way to the redline. If revs are kept above 5k, the engine responds without any problem. After doing some research on the various forums, it would seem that this could be a potential cam position sensor (hall sensor?) problem and, in some cases, seems to clear itself up through some hard driving (which I have tried to do but with no avail). Questions are: will a faulty sensor show up on diagnostics? Or could my symptoms be caused by the mods or combination thereof? Also, the car has been sat around the workshop for the last 3 months and hence I'm quite hesitant to put it back in IF there is a chance it'll clear itself up. I miss having the car at my disposal! Thanks!