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perleman

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Everything posted by perleman

  1. perleman
    Ahhhhhh OK that explains it - thanks a lot - it must be a 996 only hack.
  2. perleman
    Guys is anyone on this ultra technical forum able to help? I looked above the fuse board & I have a little tray that is horizontal, with the relays in facing up, that is almost impossible to reach. It has 5x relays in it & they are all small brown ones without porsche part numbers on. My car is a 997 C4S convertible - can anyone help!? I'm after the PSE relay, to do the cutout mod on, could it be on relay board 2 behind the seats? I'm wondering if the coupe & cab are different as the cab has a realy board in the back that mainly controlls the roof mech?
  3. perleman
    I thought it was supposed to be above the fuse board in the drivers footwell but I really can't see it at all - help? Car is right hand drive btw... trying to find the PSE relay. THanks
  4. perleman
    Hi, I did have this problem in exceptionally cold weather in 2007, however before I could take any remedial action it went away and never came back. I can only assume that it was due to too high viscosity of hydralic fluid in the unusually cold weather. Have since traded up to a 987 which is far more reliable. Am only posting this so others who may experience this issue might not immediatly start changing parts uneccesarily
  5. perleman
    That article is offensively misleading. There has been a poll going on on Boxa.net about engine failure & there have only been 2 cases in a sample of 100, which is a bit more representative than a sample of 11. What a cretinous half-wit that made that assumption, do you not think if failure was 20% Porsche would have a reputation like Alfa Romeo. What an absolute idiot.
  6. perleman
    Discovered a cracked rad today, it must have been a hairline a year ago that took ages to develop. I'm actually relieved in a way as it explains my recent spate of coolant loss & rules out engine damage issues (for now!) Questions: * To change one rad, do they have to spend a while bleeding / draining the cooling system? * If so, should I save some money longer term by change both rads (car is 10 years old manual 2.5 and neither changed so far) so rust is inevitable I suppose * How will I know if the AC condensors need doing at the same time / is that common? Ta
  7. perleman
    Hi all, scary coolant loss issue. Car is a 98 2.5 manual with 54k miles on * 9 months ago one morning the temp light flashed, I topped up with water & took car to JZM in King's Langley. They spent 4 hours looking for leaking expansion tanks, radiators, coolant lines, and checking the head gasket, and found nothing wrong. * 4 months ago one day the same happened. I took it to PorscheTech in Finchley Road where Andy pressure tested the coolant and found nothing wrong, except a pin-sized hole at the top of the expansion tank through which nothing was noticably escaping (and not worth spending £500 on getting a new tank fitted to fix). I fitted the latest coolant cap BTW. * On tuesday I drove 300 miles * Wednesday morning, flashing light, I put in about 250ml water and light stopped flashing * Thursday morning, flashing light, I drove 2 miles, stopped, inspected it, coolant level was normal & when I re-started, it didn't flash any more! What are your thoughts - should I be worried about coolant leaking into the engine, or if this was the case would there clearly be evidence of oil in the coolant header tank? Surely a leak would have been detected by the 2 places I took it into? Quite worried now.
  8. perleman
    Great idea... I'll try that in th morning... thanks
  9. perleman
    Hi, I'm installing the laser sensor of my roadpilot, and need to place it either behind the number plate (and I'll make a small hole for the sensor in one of the black letters of the plate so it isn't noticable), or on the front grille to the side of the number plate. Where & how can I pass the cable into the cabin? It seems that there is a temperature sensor in the front bumper & the hole for that wire is very small, and the wire seems to come out a lot higher up in the front boot so would I need to remove the bumper to get at it... any help appreciated! Thanks
  10. perleman
    I drive a 986 2.5 manual. TC doesn't seem to do anything much. Only when I have been driving like an idiot has the back started to come out and even then it's controllable so I'd say not to get anything that is likely to make you push it any further
  11. perleman
    The wheels physically fit on but the 987 tyres are wrong so if you're buying a set with tyres on you'll need to change the rubber
  12. perleman
    Have seen these for sale - will they fit my 986 2.5 (1998 MY)? Do they need spacers / different tires? Thanks Porsche 18" Carerra III wheels + tyres Full Set Front 235/40zr18 Rear 265/40zr18
  13. perleman
    Perleman: Just wanted to make sure that you are aware of the location of the 'UP' and "DOWN" relays for the spoiler, i.e., in the trunk, on the driver's side, behind the carpet lining. Regards, Maurice. Thanks for that, I'll take a look & post back.
  14. perleman
    A bit weird this, the spoiler is normally fine, and the switch opperates it as it should so clearly the motor etc is fine. Twice in the last few weeks I have got out of the car after a journey to find the spoiler still up & had to use the switch to lower it. What could it be - I'm assuming either a relay it's not getting speed info to the relays? BTW it's a 1998 2.5 manual 986
  15. perleman
    I currently have a custom box I made myself that goes in the passenger footwell, parallel to the transmision tunnel, about 4 inchs deep - takes advantage of the space under the dash & fits a Pioneer 8" shallow mount sub. Not much of a match for the 10" Alpine I had in the boot of my GOlf before! I'm considering making a large but shallow box that fits the contours of the firewall behind the seat (sealed unlike the other guy on here who made a similar such design). Hoping that this will give me the bass I lust after... will report back. The rest of myy set up is FOcal components, with tweeters in the dash, woofers in the doors, and 2 x Lanzar 1" shallow mounts in a custom box on the rear parcel shelf that looks totally OEM. That has no bass whatsoever but is great for fill-in. I have 2 amps in the front boot mounted on carpeted MDF on the floor, plenty of power for the fronts & sub, with the rears being powered by the (Alpine) head unit's amp.
  16. perleman
    Hi, Just wondering, would a shallow-mount sub fit under where the glovebox should be in the passenger footwell? If so how is the space accessed? I actually mean inside that space, not in the footwell itself
  17. perleman
    It basically comes down to: Should I: A) change the poly rib belt & fuel filter after 30,000 miles and 6 years? B) change them after 42,000 miles 7 years? C) change them after 54,000 miles and 8 years?
  18. perleman
    Sorry... will get on that. I know it won't hurt to do it sooner, my question is, is it problematic to leave the FF & PRB for so long (potentially 7 years)? The car has full Porsche SH to date and these 2 items were last changed in 2002 at 16,5000 miles, so it doesn't need to be done according to milage, untill 64,000 in a year's time, but does 7 years seem a long time to go for without changing these components? I know rubber parts will eventually become brittle and potentially snap etc, so for example, doe a 7 year old PRB sound alarm bells to you? Thanks for help so far.
  19. perleman
    Thanks but my car is a UK car & the manual stated 48,000 miles (the link you provided is for US cars) - my question really is should I do these items sooner than the recommended milage due to the age of the car (almost 10 years old)?
  20. perleman
    Hi, My car is a 1998 manual with air-con. It is due in tomorrow for a minor 12k service. I have just noticed that it last had a fuel filter and poly-rib belt change in 2002, 6 years ago, at 16,500 miles. My car has now covered 47,000 miles, with 12k of that in the last 9 months. The service book says to change these items every 48k miles so in theory it's not due until 64,000 in another 9 months, but is that stretching it as the belt is made of rubber and won't last forever, an the OPC did change them initially after just 4 years. If the belt did snap could it take any auxiliaries out etc? By the same logic, should I have the manual transmision oil changed too although it claims 96,000 mile changes, now that the car is 10 years old?
  21. perleman
    OK that's the problem- the wheels are £700 with good tyres on, and they'll give me 250 P/X on mine (mine are mint). so for £450 I can get the wheels that I like best. But if the tyres need changing that's another £700, and then I might as well buy replicas with brand new tyres on. Is there not a quick and easy way to recalibrate the speedo, or is that not the right way to go about things?
  22. perleman
    Hi, it's the 18" Boxster S II alloys I'm interested in, does the same apply - don't want to damage my suspension
  23. perleman
    Hi all, I'm in the UK and am considering investing in some 5-spoke 987 Boxster S 'II' alloys (the ones with the rectangular hole cut out where the spoke meets the wheel). I presently have 17" wheels. My question is 4-fold: 1a - Is it OK to fit these to my car - I know the very early Boxsters weren't designed for 18" and it could cause suspension parts to become damaged, how do I know mine won't be affected? 1 - Will these work properly without requiring new alignment, ECU changes, spedo recalibration etc, will the rolling radius be the same 2 - Will the handling improve / deteriorate 3 - By how much will the ride quality deteriorate - I have the M030 sports set-up & it's already quite a hard ride. I know this is subjective but it it a significant change, marginal, or somewhere in the middle? Thanks.
  24. perleman
    Thanks all... some more questions... * Is it acceptable to clear out the vents & scoops using a vacuum cleaner / water hose pipe without removing the bumper or is this ineffective? * How can I be sure both fans are working? * Could this overheating be caused by me topping up with a little non-Porsche coolant (that may have glooped up?)
  25. perleman
    "Anyone with a fair amount of mechanical ability and a LOT of patience, witht the willingness and ability to pay attention to detail, can install the top themselves" Just about sums up why I wouldn't even think about attempting it!!! :)
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