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Well, if you haven't bought the car already and are still interested in it, here's what I say when people tell me its an easy, inexpensive fix: "If its easy and inexpensive, why don't you fix it and then I will buy the car?" this usually results in a "I would but I don't have the time" which results in my saying "I estimate the cost to be 2 hours of my labor and $50 in parts, take $250 off the price and I will buy the car:" The ignition switch is a common probelm but the fix involves a lot of contortions but not much in parts cost. The airbag light might be nothing (just reset using Duramethric or PIWIS) or it might be major. A '98 is 12 years old. The airbag computer sits under the driver's seat. It can easily get wet and contacts can corrode. I would ask them to fix this or take $1000 off the price of the car for you having to deal with an unknown cost repair.
I do not understand why seemingly knowledgeable people want larger and larger rims. It goes against all logic. 1) Larger rims cost more 2) Larger rims weigh more - and its the worst kind of weight you can add to a car. It's called unsprung weight and increases in unsprung weight make handling worse by a factor of 4 over adding weight in the body. 3) Larger rims are less protected from pothole damage 4) Larger rims ride rougher - see unsprung weight above 5) Larger rims will more quickly wear out other suspension parts like shocks, bearings and bushings 6) Larger rims are harder to balance and lose their balance more frequently. There is only one logical reason to get larger rims - if you have large brake rotors that the stock rims will not clear. That's why you see race cars with big rims. Perhaps that's where the general public got the idea. Stick with 18" wheels. Don't be a dedicated follower of fashion.
I suggest showing your dissatisfaction with their ineptitude by changing insurance carriers and insurance agents. I have State Farm and they have a database of features for every car model I have ever bought. They give me the safety discounts without me asking for them.
Everyone knows that the way you spell Boxster has a significant effect on tire wear. If you leave out the "S" you will get 78% of the wear that adding the "S" in your communications provides. Seriously, though, Boxsters come from the factory with lots of rear negative camber. Have yours checked and try to get it set to the minimum (-1.4 degrees will be good). Also have the rear toe set to zero. Is your car lowered? Aftermarket lowered rear suspensions can add to the already high negative camber. Finally make sure your tire pressures are checked frequently and run factory or higher pressures. And don't go to 19" wheels. Extra cost, poorer preformance, less resistance to damage.
Wait for rain, then drive fast. Seriously though, why does the Boxster being a convertible stop you form cleaning the undercarraige at a car wash? Just do the undercarraige and don't wash the rest of the car and don't get the top wet.
Before you spend any money, can I suggest that you try driving the car for a few weeks without any sound system. I really like my music and have many gigs of MP3s on various sources. However in the Boxster with the top down I have no desire to listen to music. The car is very involving and I love hearing the birds, the planes, other cars and the symphony in flat six. We are bombarded by electronic entertainment 24x7. The Boxster is my peace cocoon and a great escape.
There is no reason to swap. You can get the digital display to switch from English to Metric. That includes speed, fuel consumption, tire pressure and outside air temperature. Here's how: SET Basic setting on on-board computer Switching on selection eld “D” Push operating lever forward. Changing the basic setting of the on-board computer Select “SET” with the operating lever. Push operating lever forward. Select the desired function with the operating lever: Reset – Reset all, – Reset average consumption, – Reset average speed, – Reset trip counter Units – Speedometer: km - km/h, miles - mph – Consumption: l/100 km, mls/gal (USA), mpg (UK), km/l – Temperature: Celsius, Fahrenheit – Tire pressure: bar, psi
You cannot get PDK on an '08, only '09. '08 and earlier had a Tiptronic ( a 5 speed, real torque converter automatic) that is inferior in all respects to the PDK. My recommendation is to test drive an '08 manual and then decide. My '08 is def. heavier clutch than my Honda was but not too heavy to be annoying. But I do not have a bad back. Also, I recommend staying away from 19" wheels and getting PASM. The 19" wheels give you less tire sidewall and therefore are rougher riding. PASM in the regular setting is a very comfortable sports car ride. Far more comfortable than an S2000.
Wow. Safety last, handheld cameras on track :-( Glad you had fun and no one was hurt.
I think what you are describing is normal 987 behaviour. Here's what is supposed to happen: 1) If the top is up and the windows are closed - when you open the latch for the top the windows drop about 1/2". When the top is fully lowered the windows go back all the way up. 2) If the top is up and the windows are open - when you open the latch for the top the windows rise about 1/2". When the top is fully lowered the windows go back all the way down. (I don't know why this happens but it does on my 987) 3) If the top is down and the windows are up - when you start to raise the top the windows drop about 1/2". When the top is all the way up and you latch it the windows go back to all the way up