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Everything posted by minny

  1. Finally decided to try to replace the tensioner. Got a Febi one for only £55. Removed the alternator and the tensioner was clearly visible. The 2 bolts holding it to the mount were just about accessible but the middle one holding the rod to the pulley was obstructed by a pipe. There was no way of moving the pipe as it is rigid. To change the tensioner would have entailed more dismantling so I chickened out and replace everything. I guess I just have to put up with the belt slip after a heavy shower or washing the car. As I can get Gates belts for £15-20, I've been changing it every other year (about 12 k miles) case it's weakened by the slipping.
  2. I haven't had the chance to sort it and mine is still doing the same thing after a storm or washing the car. I cleaned all the pulleys and put a new belt on again with no change to the problem. I have a new Febi tensioner to put on but inertia ( and terrible UK weather ) is a terrible thing. I guess I've lived with the problem for 2 years it's becoming something I've accepted will happen when it's very wet and hasn't caused any harm. If I get round to changing the tensioner I will update this post.
  3. Good to know I'm not alone. Still plan to change the tensioner. I can get an OEM one for less than half the price.
  4. In your case the belt is nearly 10 so would have hardened or become glazed. I would replace it in the first instance as it's cheap and easy to do. My problem only relates to the belt slipping on the alternator pulley when it is very wet and first started. It doesn't affect the steering or occur during driving. I've replaced my belt 4 times in the last year but it still occurs.
  5. It is the black spring bit that I am thinking of changing as I've replaced the pulleys, idler rollers and various belts. Might take off the alternator first and have a good look to see how accessible the bolts are before attempting to do it.
  6. Thank you JFP as usual. Your advice is always invaluable. The instructions in the link show the tensioner roller replacement. I will probably try to replace the actual tensioner body as well. From the parts diagram and turbo technical manual, it looks like it can be done once the alternator is out of the car.
  7. Thank you JFP as usual. Your advice is always invaluable. The instructions in the link show the tensioner roller replacement. I will probably try to replace the actual tensioner body as well. From the parts diagram and turbo technical manual, it looks like it can be done once the alternator is out of the car.
  8. I've done all the above except the tensioner which I suspect is the problem. I've used 2 Porsche belts on top of the Gates and Contitech one in the last year and 8k miles. My water pump and alternator is new. Replaced the P/S pump pulley and also the 2 idler rollers. Only thing left is the crankshaft pulley and tensioner. Can the tensioner be replaced with the alternator out and engine in situ or is access too awkward? I was hoping that with the alternator out I can reach round the back of the tensioner to get at the bolts holding it to the block.
  9. I've checked the belt routing. I've read a previous post where the OP routed it differently and it worked fine except for slipping.
  10. My original alternator had a fixed pulley but the brand new Bosch replacement had a freewheeling pulley. I thought that was it so tried a new Bosch one with a fixed pulley but problem persisted. I am starting to wonder if it is the tensioner. It feels as strong but this is subjective. I need to exert about 13kg using a 23.5cm long socket and bar to turn the tensioner using the 15mm bolt. At about 10kg force it's just starting to move.
  11. My 2004 turbo Tip does this strange (or not so strange) thing that whenever I have washed the car or it has rained quite heavily, the serpentine belt slips on the alternator pulley when the engine is first started for about 10-40 seconds with the voltmeter registering at 12V until the belt stops slipping. Looking in the engine bay, the alternator pulley is turning but obviously not enough to give a charge until a little chirrup when the belt grips fully. It doesn't happen with a light drizzle but any moderate rain (which in the U.K can happen daily) would make the car do this. When I park the car the rear is slightly up hill and I wonder if this is enough to angle the water directly on the belt. I've tried a new Porsche, Contitech and Gates belt and all do the same thing. Looking at a previous post, I've checked the routing as the belt can be installed a couple of ways in the car. There is no oil leak but i cleaned all the pulleys with brake cleaner anyway. My alternator is a brand new Bosch one. Anyone else have this problem?
  12. My car did exactly the same and after working round new pulleys, P/S pump, alternator, I replaced the 11 month old (2k mile) original Porsche belt with a Contitech one and all went quiet. The problem I have is that on the new belt, the noise has returned after 1 month and slips when wet so the voltage at start up registers 12V for a minute or so until the belt grips again. When I replaced the belt the last time, I cleaned all the pulleys with brake cleaner and a brush. There is no oil leaking anywhere near the belt. I wonder if my tensioner is duff. I have replaced everything else. Does anyone know if the tensioner can be replaced with the alternator removed or does the bracket it fits into have to be removed from the engine?
  13. I've checked the voltages at different points - when the alternator is pushing out 13.8v, it reads 13.8v at the engine bay power point and the cable connection next to the tip box and 13.65v at the battery so there is a slight voltage difference. Voltage difference from +ve battery terminal to engine bay power point is about 0.1v. Resistance from +ve battery lead to alternator is 0.2 ohms. There is no resistance from alternator body to body ground.
  14. Can I use the alternator with the free-wheeling pulley for the manual cars on my tiptronic that usually has the fixed pulley? I've been offered a refurbished Bosch free-wheeling pulley one for half the price of one with the fixed pulley due to surplus stock. If not can I swap the pulleys over from my existing alternator to the new one?
  15. Being a fool, I found this thread via the search facility and forgot to mention that my car is a 996 turbo tip. I know it also suffers with similar problems. I heard that on the turbo tips the engine may have to be dropped to change the alternator to starter power cable.
  16. I recently had the alternator on my turbo rebuilt with new bearings and a new Bosch F00M 144 136 regulator. When cold, it charges at 14V at idle and engine revved (with or without accesories turned on). After driving for 30 minutes, it drops to about 13.5V at idle and engine revved. If i turn on the aircon, both heated seats, air blowing at max, all lights including main beam and fogs and rear demister on, the voltage at idle drops to 12.4V. If I rev the engine it increases to 13V. I used my Techno tools battery tester and it said that the charging was fine and ripple was 96mV. It gave the alternator the thumbs up. Is this normal behaviour?
  17. I finally got round to replacing the roller and as Fedmax posted, the bolt does indeed hit the engine carrier. I was about to start removing the exhaust to get at the engine carrier bolts and engine mounts when the idea of a long block of wood as a lever against the engine block moved the engine carrier enough to remove the bolt and fit the new roller. Hope this helps anyone intending to tackle the job.
  18. Did you manage to replace the idler on the right of the tensioner (below the air con pulley) without removing the engine carrier? Someone on the 996 turbo forum found the bolt was just a bit too long and was stopped by the engine carrier and couldn't remove it after undoing it. i need to replace mine but am trying to work out how much time I need to budget in case I need to remove the engine carrier or drop the engine slightly to do it.
  19. Thank you. Will have a look at the manual about the engine carrier. Was hoping to get away with no major dismantling.
  20. I need to replace the same idler roller on my turbo. Did you ever manage to remove the bolt and pulley without moving the engine?
  21. An update on the above P1502 code. After replacing the throttle body and throttle jacking unit, the light still appeared. Connections were checked and the DME was finally replaced which solved the problem.
  22. Hi Loren, we replaced the throttle body and jacking unit but the light came back on so we replaced the units from a same model year identical car that was working fine but to no avail. There are 2 MAFs listed for MY 2000 boxster s so we tried both but there was no joy. Checked the wiring and connectors again but all seems well. Could it be a faulty DME. There are no other codes recorded.
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