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boostiality

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Everything posted by boostiality

  1. Boost: Found the link: http://bernardembden.com/xjs/pcvfilter/index.htm You are not going to believe what this guy cooked up! Regards, Maurice. Wow Maurice GREAT FIND! I was trying to find alternatives because of the larger diameter of the bellow pipe and I guess this is the answer. Great inspiration! Hopefully this will be a more permanent solution to this AOS issue.
  2. Here's a general idea off a Subaru. The only issue is that this car has 4 hoses. 2 get taken care off, the other 2 get plugged off. Let's see...
  3. And discovered just how cool it must be for Porsche to charge people $90+ dollars for a part thats 99% plastic and 1 metal spring. I broke apart the case on the little bastard because it made me think I've blown the turbo in my Boxster and as it turns out it was just the AOS. When breaking this thing open, you'll notice the major design flaw. The diaphragm part thats connected to the intake manifold has a very thin layer of plastic (about as thin as a regular condom) that separates the spring. Thin enough to where one can plainly see that with the hot oil and gases that passes through this thing, you just shake your head wondering why Porsche designed the device this way. On my car, the thin plastic part failed sending in 2 quarts of oil into my intake manifold. You can stick your finger right into this diaphragm part and this is where the biggest flaw lies. Porsche could and should have spent 2 cents on a 1 way check valve so only air can enter the device and oil cannot be passed through. Until a real alternative can be made, I decided to build a breather system that still is vacuum actuated but with a fuel filter/oil filter of some sort in line with the intake manifold along with a PCV valve from another car.
  4. Hi Guys I'm trying to T off the oil pressure sensor / sender to feed the inlet of the turbo. Does anyone know what kind the thread / pitch of the oil pressure sender? I haven't removed it yet, but would like to order the Metric to NPT adapter if anyone knows what it is. Thanks in advanced!
  5. Thanks for the info! I actually got the info directly from the guy who started spreading this mod on 6speedonline and rennlist... Here it goes from my post at 6speedonline. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120586 If we break down the relay slots 30 = 12V hot constant 87 = takes slot 30 and sends it to the device 86 = Switched power which in this case will get triggered due to coolant temperature 85 = Is the ground for 86 So the original mod creator told me to put a wire into slot 85 for both relays #20 and #22 connect that to one side of the switch. Next side of the toggle switch will then be used for the ground. Call me paranoid, I just don't like seeing my gauge get in the middle of 8 and 0. From my past experiences when dealing with OBDII based motors is that the computer will start retarding ignition timing a few degrees once it goes past 200*F. More so when your past 210*. So cooler motor=more ignition=more ignition=more power (well not really but more power then what it could be if it was running colder).
  6. It's another one of those "hey it cost 5 dollars so why not do it" sort of things. Partly because of the turbo project yes, but also partly just for peace of mind. I was planning on doing the center radiator as well for the project since Evo does it for their supercharger kit for the 996's but can't right now due to budget. The good thing about turbo's is that their load induced, so as long as I don't give it the good stuff, she'll remain nice and docile. BTW I've been checking my coolant temps with the data logger and it's suffice to say that the factory gauge is a little bit more then deceiving to say the least. If your looking at your temp gauge and it's in between the 8 and 0, your car is actually past the 200*F mark, more like 205-208. I've seen mine touch the middle 0 in the summer but can't replicate it with the temps now, but I'm pretty sure thats the 215* region. The reason why I'm doing this Running hot = good for emissions/Bad for engine life and performance
  7. When dealing with electronics I usually pass it on to someone else that knows what their doing. But this time I want to learn because this is so simple I'm pulling my hair out. Has anyone ever done the fan mod that turns on the radiator fans with a switch? I made a small circuit, uses a simple toggle switch, I'm using the screw that holds the fuse block on the drivers side as a ground. I tapped into relays 20 and 22 on the #86 prong. When I did this I blew the fuses for those 2 circuits. What am I doing wrong?? any help would be appreciated! Joe
  8. FWIW, the original 986 eGas MAF (with a 986 part number) is also used on the 996 TT. When used with the later style MAF program (i.e. 2001), the original runs the engine richer. Good luck with your project (saw on 6Speed as well). (mee a.k.a. arenared) Shweet I can't wait install the system, put in 100 octane, and see what the wideband sensors says. When it's all said and done, I don't think our cars at this level have are starving for fuel, it's merely detonation thats hurting the FI. For some reason I'm having trouble replying on 6speed as it seem to locked me out of their system. I can't email their admins either?
  9. Ryan: Thanks! The shop was just a little hole in the wall shop in South El Monte, CA called Blue Tone Mufflers. Although if you go to it, it's a little hole in the wall father and son team, but they've had done a lot of turbo exhaust setups from honda's to M3's, although I was their first porsche =D They didn't have a mandrel bender so he took his time to create those nice bends for me. He's VERY cheap and does a great job for the price. Falco: You know I would do the 3.6 conversion in a heart beat if I had $$ means of doing so. The turbo kit is just my little band aid till I have enough cash lying around to buy a 3.6. As for where I bought the turbo, I got the turbo/oil lines/flanges/wastegate as well as intercooler/piping/BOV at a place called fatboy racing in El Monte or they go by Kansai Motorsports on ebay. If you want to do a quick search for them on ebay, go to ebay.com/motors and type in 60-1 turbo and they'll usually be the only ones who supply that particular one. The reason I bought from them though is that their pretty close to my place and would work with me on the price without any shipping charges. The turbo I bought is the one most seen on ebay so it really doesn't matter which vendor your getting it from since it's all from the same factories in china. The one I'm using will have "AR50" and has a 3" inlet on the compressor side. My recommendation is to just go on ebay and search for the cheapest one. BTW I chose this size turbo from supra veteran who also sells these particular turbos from www.club-nat.com . I told him I was looking for something that would give more low end and gobs of mid range and he recommended this one. Sinner: Thats right to keep everything cheap I'm just going to bump fuel pressure. It's just a cheap solution to see what if it works, as the FPR in this car is the same for VWs/Audi's and you can purchase a relatively cheap 5 BAR fpr. The only FMU type FPR that I've found is from EVO and they want way too much for it. Now if the DME can't cope with 5 BAR FPR, I'll put the original one back on and opt for the Bosch 044 (aka GT2) fuel pump. At a $150, the thing is an external pump and flows more then the walbaro 255 pump. This path always works for simpler PCMs like MAF dsm's or MAP honda's so I'm sure it'll work for our advanced DME. As for the DME throwing a CEL, I don't think it will. There's no pressure sensor in the motor and theres a few guys who have done superchargers without any DME stuff haven't thrown a CEL. It could potentially over run the MAF, but I doubt it since the sensor along with every other fuel component on the car is the same as the 300+ hp n/a 996. The MAF will be routed before the turbo. Oh btw, I haven't ordered that 5 bar FPR, but I did order a methanol injection kit. Supplementary fuel and cooling right there.
  10. Yes Gary's car is a very good example... in fact it is the only example I know of a streetable FI Boxster that has logged so many miles. And he is still tweaking it. There are a few others from Ruf and Gemballa that have entire race/tuning teams to insure everything is running right. If his car was stolen and he was starting over, would he do another 2.5 FI and repeat his steps, or just drop in a 996 motor that is reliable, powerful, and smog legal... Your absolutely correct about all that. Unfortunately the few of us who are modifying the cars this way got to pay the hard and usually expensive way to feed our habit. However this is just a normal curve that all new cars must face, especially ones that already have a stigma of being complex and expensive by the general public and including most owners. The one recurring thing that I've noticed through my limited research with FI boxster owners is that most rely on the tuners to do all the leg work without monitoring much themselves. Putting this much blind faith on a 2nd party is something that other car cultures out there simply don't do due to the inherent possibilities of what if. At the very least, things like a wideband sensor and EGT are needed which just isn't happening with most owners. The whole "set it and forget it" routine obviously isn't working with that many unhappy or bewildered owners of most of the FI cars, which isn't fair considering their expense... One can totally understand why Gary or anyone else that for that matter would rather go with the tried and true 996 engine transplant if $$ or mechanical ability was something so readily available to them, which as of now I would recommend as well however it looks like BoostWerx system seems to have gotten it right. If there were any noticeable differences between the off the shelf supercharger and turbocharger kits available to our cars is that the only the turbocharger kit has an intercooler where as the supercharger doesn't. Also one company provides a tune with injectors where as the other company comes with a tune but utilizes stock ones. The problem as I see it is that our cars are not starved of fuel with stock injectors, they are merely getting insufficient octane and the non intercooled charge air isn't necessairly agreeing with our 11.0 + compression ratio. Also take note that the most widely distributed supercharger kit (evo) for the 996's uses an intercooler. All this info gathering has led me to where I am right now with my own DIY soon to be single turbocharged boxster. Although I wont be able to tune ignition timing or change injector size, I will have the ability to use methanol injection which in itself is going to be close to 20% of total fuel during WOT ALONG with being intercooled as well. Cheers! Joe
  11. Although not a supercharged car, Gary in BR has an example of doing something right with his car. His car alone has 150,000 miles and has been both supercharged and then turbocharged. It looks like he might have had some issues initially with the supercharger but I haven't found any complaints that he's posted on the forums about the twin turbo set up. I'm pretty sure with 150,000 miles, his car would be a good example of a car thats used daily and see's boost on a regular basis. Joe
  12. Sounds like an awesome idea! My boxster can use a nice road trip to break in all these parts. Let me know if you when you want to set it up as we can just piggyback onto the supra nationals at TX2k8 in Texas. Big time supra meet but lots of vipers and porsches always show up. Multi-day event with drag racing and a nice road course as well. It's a single turbo, just one of those cheap ebay fakes of a garrett. It has a t3 flange so when everything is mounted and sorted correctly, a real garrett will take it's place in the future. I'll take another photo with it next to a pepsi can so you can get the general idea of it's size. Your t25s can definitely flow more then what their doing right now, so if you got the tuning and components that are up to the task you can step it up another notch. One thing is for sure though, methanol injection looks like it's going to be great solution for us. It's like putting on an extra injector but running race gas all the time. Today I'm going to the muffler shop to have them mount and weld the turbo and wastegate. I'll take some pix for ya Cheers! Joe
  13. Just wanted to update those are were interested. So I'm almost there in parts. Heres the turbo (made in china wannabe t4/t3 hybrid), ebay tial wannabe 38mm wastegate, 24x7x3 intercooler 2.5" intercooler Piping Oil line kit and ebay GReddy Type S wannabe BOV ELM 327 datalogger and LC1 Wideband on the way. Oh if pk2 (peter) or Gary is reading this, I'm also going to be doing meth injection too =D
  14. Unfortunately with most OBD II generic readers like the one I'm going to use, there will usually be no data acquisition for knock count. What I will be using is an audible meter though when I begin to tune the car. As long as theres no audible knock nor funny timing maps going on, it should be good to go. With us in California having 91 though, the tune will be a lot more conservative then others in the east coast.
  15. What kind of Turbo are you getting for $350? You'll also need to also figure for a custom downpipe and exhaust manifold. What type of intake manifold you would want to run (stock, custom). I'm assuming stock compression on the engine. VW/Audi Tuners have tonnes of turbo setups based on upgrading the Fuel Injectors and Custom Tuning using the stock or an upgraded MAF. These are closed loop setups, so instead of using an annoying blow-off valve, you would use a Diverter Valve (DV). These systems also work with the stock FPR, and boost is regulated by the wastegate (type of spring you choose). There's a lot of things to consider when going Forced Induction. I would read Corky Bell's - Maximum Boost for the basic science behind Turbocharging. Cheers, Mike Peter: Thanks for the heads up, I've been reading the posts on there as well. I'm going away from WI though since I'm intercooling. What I really wish was possible was something to tune ignition timing for a boost map. I'm pretty sure though that Porsche's PCM isn't all that finicky. People have been turbocharging Honda's and Toyota's etc for years with stock timing maps, and the basic principal of mapping timing vs. load has been pretty much the same across the board. Even if we cant modify ignition timing for now, one thing is for sure though is that the M96 can handle some boost with no issues. Mike: Everything I'm doing is cheap, and I mean dirt cheap. These are the turbos they recreate in china for dirt cheap. This wont be a permanent setup, just testing to make sure everything is working correctly. These turbos are all T3 flanged anyway, so if everything is going correctly I'll be bolting on a better garrett unit later. Theres no reason to and I don't know of any aftermarket intake manifolds for the M96? . I'm not shooting for big numbers anyway, and the stock intake manifold will be fine, in fact I bet theres a good chance it's the same intake manifold as the n/a Carrera's with 325+ hp. As for compression it'll be 100% stock. Folks have been turbocharging Honda's and n/a Supra/lexus motors with similar compression for years, and I'd like to think that Porsche's internals should at least be on par with the Japanese companies in terms of strength. Our MAF sensor is the same one used from the Carrera's so there no restriction there as well as ALL of our fuel components so you know they can at least what the Carrera's do stock. I used to modify the stock MAF on car's prior to the boxster. What they do is modify the signal to use larger injectors. The only problem when you do this is that it also messes with the ignition timing as well which creates even more headaches. Unfortunately theres no piggyback right now for our PCM. Before the tuning scene got big for the imports in the late 90s, there was very little in the way of tuning on a budget. Folks back then only had a few choices of standalones such as MoTec and things of that nature that would cost thousands. So the only real way of bumping up fuel was to raise fuel pressure which can be done cheaply. Thats pretty much why I'm going towards this direction. When you raise fuel pressure from our stock 3.8 Bar to 5 Bar, you'll increase the volume of our injectors to more then 10%. The PCM can also work around this as well so you wouldn't loose any drivability. As for the bov, this car is using a MAF so venting into the atmosphere would be a no no. You can still get the whoosh noise though =) What I'm doing is a rear mounted turbo so I wouldn't need a exhaust manifold, rather I'm utilizing a collector to tie both exhaust banks together where the stock muffler used to be. As for the downpipe, it's a fairly simple affair since I'm using a v-band and a quick bend to my cheapy muffler. Also I'm going to be using the cheapy ebay external wastegate which is going to be set at 6psi. As for Maximum Boost, it's definitely a good read for any gear head. However right now with the number of NA to Turbo cars out there and with current information readily available by the use of google, you can find all the information needed to turbocharge any car out there. One thing you have to keep in mind here is that I'm not shooting for the moon. I'm taking a basic formula thats been used over and over again on modern, relatively small displacement efi motors and applying it to our motors. Even if I can only make a small gain of 60-70rwhp over stock, it would be an accomplishment knowing that all of this can be done with less then $1500 worth of parts. Makes me shake my head knowing how much companies are charging for a filter, shielding, and some pipe just because their made for Porsche's. Cheers, Joe
  16. Well just a quick est. so far... Turbo, wastegate, oil feed and return lines = $350 shipped Intercooler, bov, piping = $250 shipped Datalogger = $50 shipped Wideband o2 = $200 shipped Oil pump = $75 shipped Oil tank or cooler = $50 shipped 5 Bar Fuel pressure regulator = $75 shipped Misc. stuff ? Probably another $300 to be safe So $1350 projected for parts budget. Since I'm going to be doing the labor myself, hopefully I can budget a full day to get the turbo itself on. The wideband and the pressure regulator will probably have to take another day. BTW, if your wondering why everything seems so cheap, I'm doing this project on an ebay cheapy build.
  17. Thank god for insurance ;) The turbo components are actually cheap when you start comparing what a lot of tuners charge for the components.
  18. Or you could try changing it yourself. It's pretty straight forward and you'll learn to turn a wrench a little bit. Also, in the future you can try the DEKA ETX14 battery which is a great mod for some quick weight savings since the thing weighs 14lbs vs. the 40+lb stock battery.
  19. Well it's that time of the year again when I get the bug for more power. I've had my 01 Boxster now for a little while and though this car has been great in almost every way, it would be perfect if it just had power to it. There's just something wrong knowing that my porsche has less horsepower then a v6 camry or v6 accord. While doing some homework, I've realized a few things about these cars. For one, it seems like every fuel component on the boxster and carrera (n/a) of the same years are exactly the same. One could interpret this to mean that the stock fuel system is more then up to the task of handling 325+hp. Also since I'm not shooting for the moon here, I've discovered that we can use the 5bar fuel pressure regulator (from our stock 3.8 bar) to bump up volume just in case. My main goal for this project is to be around 270+/- rwhp with hopefully boost building late in the 2000rpm range and full boost by 3500rpm. I'm not looking for peak power, but gobs of mid-range response. With help from Gary, I've deduced the fact that I'm too much of a sissy to tap the motor for an oil return line. Because of this, I'll be making a self contained oil feed and return system that I'm going to most likely locate in the trunk. The turbo is going to be placed where the stock muffler would have been and the use of a small muffler on the other side would help quiet it down some. As I was going to remove the rear 5mph bumper anyway for weight savings before thinking of turbocharging the boxster, this seemed like a good spot for the intercooler. I figure remove the bumperettes and create a small scoop to direct air to the intercooler this way. Hopefully the wideband o2 meter will tell me that the car isn't leaning out at 5psi but thats in the air till I assemble everything. Cheers, Joe
  20. Cool thanks for the clarification. I guess I cant cheap out on this one.
  21. Loren does the AOS actually pump any oil back into the engine itself seperately, or does it use engine vacuum to suck out the gases then just releases excess oil/gases back into the intake tract?
  22. Thanks for the heads up CJ. Hopefully being vented into the atmosphere would be enough for the heat.
  23. Something popped in my mind when I started to notice some smoke every morning, I'm hoping its merely due to the engine design but... If it is the AOS, can this simply be re-routed and put in a catch can? I figure I can plug the part of the intake manifold as this was what I used to do when I was modifying imports. I know many cars pull this off without tripping the CEL, but those cars were all non e-gas, so has anyone here tried this before? TIA
  24. Once you put the throttlebody back together, grab some carb cleaner and start spraying around the intake tract and intake manifold. There are times where you'll get a intake manifold leak thats minute enough not to flip the CEL but enough to give you the problems that your seeing. Get the car to normal operating temp. Then go to your garage with the door open and have someone watch your idle. Start spraying carb cleaner past the MAF all the way down to the intake manifold, esp around those connections. If your buddy see's a sudden jump in rpm you might want to investigate. If you can get ahold of an OBDII reader, you can also monitor your o2 readings. What your going to be looking for is a lazy o2 sensor thats giving you somewhat linear readings instead of the up and down voltage their supposed to give you. Every once in awhile you'll get a dying o2 sensor thats just not ready to throw a CEL just yet but enough to throw off your mpg.
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