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Dus10R

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Posts posted by Dus10R

  1. Would like to ditch the 50 pound Interstate boat anchor that dwells at the front of my car. Does anyboy know of any companies that are making Lithium Iron Phosphate car application starter batteries with A123 System's cells?

    This seems like a wide open area for some company to fill a void. I would love to replace the uber heavy battery with a 13 pound unit.

    Porsche wants way too much for theirs and as far as i can tell the only requirement is 12.8volt 18 plus Amp Hour, 480 amp

    There are tons of Chinese companies making these batteries it just seems they are made for every application besides automotive.

    Ive seen motorcycle specific, but not car yet, except for Porsche's.

    Does anybody know what Porsche's power requirements are to run the car and all of its systems?

    I may just build my own if i cant find one ... Some A123 System LiFePo4 automtive cells, a BMS and a case...done!

  2. Have you done a boost leak test?

    Have you data logged with the Durametric cable (if you have one)?

    Could be N75 valve is bad...

    Is odd that adding good fuel fixed it for a bit, but it may not be the good fuel as much as it was stirring the tank...fuel filter?

    You physically checked both waste gate actuators, arms, and the waste gate flaps to make sure they're not binding up or have some other problem. Waste gate flaps should be pulled towards the front of the car to be fully seated closed. If one is stuck open or a rod has gotten stuck (most likely to happen on psgr side turbo) and can't suck back into the actuator it would limit boost big time.

    Just thoughts...

  3. So it's the end rod? The part that screws onto the rod that is actually sticking out of the actuator? If you can find just that rod end it's easy to put on, BUT you have to balance it with the other side.

    It's a little more difficult on the psgr side ...the driver side is a breeze.

    But make sure the rod end is the one with the bend or kink...not straight.

    But to set it up you need some sort of way to pressure test it against the driver side unit. Some of the brake bleeder units will do both vacuum and pressure, you need pressure and a way to measure it.

    I have a normal bicycle pump that I use...I insert the little plastic cone that comes with the pump for filling air mattresses or little kids floaties and then I bought some vacuum line from an auto parts store and a "T" connector and a cheap air pressure gauge that reads low pressure from 1 up to whatever with 1 psi increment markers. So I took the vacuum line and cut it into 3 sections (as long as you need, made mine long enough so that I can place the air pressure gauge wherever I want it under the car so that I can see it when I'm laying under the car and pumping air into the actuator) so you connect all the vacuum hoses up to the "T" connector, one hose connects to your bicycle pump, one hose goes to your air pressure gauge and and the last hose you will connect up to the waste gate actuator.

    So you want to check first at what psi the driver side actuator is just starting to move. Do this by feel... You can't look at the actuator rod and the gauge at the same time so slightly grab the rod with two fingers and then while looking at your pressure gauge start to pump the bicycle pump. Note at what psi you just start to feel the actuator rod move... Do it a couple times just to make sure...also...it helps if you can find an air pressure gauge with a an air release button on the side of it...this way you can bleed the air off without having to take the airline off every time...you may have to pay a little more for it but it's worth it... The gauge I bought is for checking and adjusting air pressures for motorcycles so it has the round gauge with a little length of hose coming out the bottom and then a brass air chuck on the end of the hose, the brass air chuck gizmo screws off and leaves a perfect little brass fitting that you push into your vacuum line.

    So once you get the PSI for the driver side you now know what you want on the psgr side.

    So to put the rod on you need to remove the whole actuator so remove the nuts that hold the rod to the waste gate arm and then remove the bolts from the bracket that holds the actuator...(easiest if you remove wheel and fender liner)

    Note: be careful with the waste gate arm...it should move back and forth easily but you don't want to push it all the way open as they can touch the turbine blades and get stuck.

    Install your new rod end, don't screw it onto the actuator rod real far, you want it long. Then thread on one of the nuts onto the rod end and thread it on till it stops.

    Then reinstall the whole actuator and rod assembly making sure to fit the rod end into the waste gate arm with the arm fully closed. Make sure that it's not bound up and that the waste gate arm can somewhat slide freely on the rod threads. Be careful when tightening the actuator bracket back onto the turbo, it's easy to strip the threads, use some light bonding loctite.

    So with the rod inserted and the actuator mounted just double check that the waste gate arm is fully seated closed. Now thread on the last nut behind the waste gate arm and just snug it up to the arm, not tight, and then unthread the first nut back so that it's resting against the front of the waste gate arm.

    Now is where you start to adjust it to match the psi you noted of the driver side.

    Turn the rear nut clockwise to tighten it against the waste gate arm and it will increase the psi needed to make the rod move. If it needs a lot of tightening you may need to thread the first nut forward some away from the front of the waste gate arm (towards the front of the car). Get it so that it's starting to move at the same psi as the driver side.

    And thats it!

    • Upvote 1
  4. So I had a K24/18G conversion done with 1 bar waste gates, turbo intake hose kit installed (not boost), diverter valves, exhaust, 5 bar FPR, stock air box, K & N filter and Softronic tune...

    Car is fine driving around normally and is even good upwards of 1.1 to 1.2 bar.

    BUT... if I try to drive it hard from down low, WOT in say 3rd gear, the boost kicks in massively and then it all of a sudden dumps boost, and the CEL light comes on and the gas pedal no longer functions. Engine is still running but wont allow for any gas input and the CEL screem says drive to dealer. Turn the car off and back on and everything is fine...CEL is still on but car drives fine normally.

    Hooked up Durametric and the code is P1508 Torque Comparison Function Monitor - Signal Implausible (Porsche code 408)

    Cleared it and it was fine...

    But now I'm afraid to open it up WOT...

    I've done some searching and some people say that the MAF is bad... but that doesn't make sense because it didn't throw a MAF code. And I figure with electronics they either work or they don't.

    Then others say the DME is bad... and that didn't make any sense either because if it was bad why would it continue to work and only glitch under high load, high boost. It doesn't have any CEL's at all till you WOT under high load condition.

    Anybody else running higher boost (cfm) have similar problems?

    Is the stock MAF not able to handle the additional air flow?

  5. Sad fact is that there are always good years and bad years for any given make and model. The ole addage "never buy a first production year" applies here for sure, especially as it was Porsche's first attempt at a h2o 911. As they used to say when buying a Porche, buy the latest model year you can afford. I say used because things have definitely changed with the brand over the years. I worked for PCNA when they were located here in Reno and there was a big shift in the company to lower the cost of production right around the time they left here and moved to Atlanta which happened to be around the time when the 996 came out. They started emmuating the Japanese lean methods of Kaizen and looked to find ways to produce the cars cheaper. Unfortuatey some people are correct when they say the 911 hasn't been the same since the 993. Not that it was the best car they've ever made but up to that point the quality was the same for all variants of 911's produced. They all had dry sump motors and were pretty much all based off the same platform...then the 996 came out and changed all of that. Porsche now had tiers within the 911 line and still do and its getting worse. The basic 996 did away with a true dry sump motor and went with what Porsche called a "integrated dry sump" which is not a dry sump engine...they did this to lower the cost of building their most sold 911's and to maximize their profits by tricking the buyers into thinking nothing had really changed except a water jacket (tier 1 entry level 911 with cost cutting enhancements). So in the 996 line the only cars to get what has been deemed one of Porsche's finest motors was to buy the Turbo or the GT3, true dry sump motors based from their racing program (top tier highest quality, no expense spared). Same for Boxsters and Caymans, entry level Porsche's with integrated dry sump motors and warnings in the owners manual about cornering too hard can lead to oil starvation....huh? In a Porsche? Even Corvettes have dry sumps now... And so this holds true today, but getting even worse... 997 first and second gens both have cheaper integrated dry sump motors not derived from their racing cars. The 997 Turbo (gen 1) used the same motor from the 996 Turbo with some improvements and the GT cars (2. 3. And 3 RS gens 1 and 2) used the same motors... But now with the 2nd gen 997 Turbo it no longer has a dry sump motor either, they've figured out how to cheapen it up also. Funny thing...the brand new GT2RS which is the most powerful street car they've made to date, didn't use the new 2nd gen DFI Turbo motor, instead they went back to the tried and true racing motor from the 996 Turbo, same one used in the gen 1 997 Turbo. So now in order to buy the true no expense spared, high quality Porshe's you have to buy the limted GT3, GT3RS, GT3RS 4.0, or the GT 2RS... all the rest have been somewhat compromised by old scool Porshe standards.

    So to summarize... Just dont assume because it has a Porsche badge on the hood that they are all the same and that they all share the same quality...this stopped being true with the end of the 993 cars. Hence why their values have remained high. Just look at the resale values of the cars from then on...normal 996's are dirt cheap, 996 Turbos are holding value a little better (best bang for buck going right now) and 996 GT3 is holding okay too. Now you have to pay Porsche a premium to get their highest quality 911 where you used to just have to buy a 911 to get the high quality. Not so anymore...

    I just hope Porsche doesn't get like Ferrari were they could care less about their product quality because they know sheople are going to buy them anyway... It worried me that Porsche has had RMS issues since the 996 and that it continues to be a problem up into the cars today and that includes the GT3's cars... Even Toyota would have fixed that problem within a year or two.

  6. Typing this from my Blackberry in a bumpy car so forgive any errors...

    Have you tried removing the throttle body and cleaning all the gunk out? When they get gunked up its common to have some weird starting and stalling problems.

    After you put it back on (its an easy job, right on top the motor) put your key in the ignition and turn it on but don't start it and let it sit for a minute thirty or so...if its quiet you'll here it reset and adjust itself..sounds like a high pitched whine with a few clicks. When the sound stops turn it off and then you can start it and let it run for 5 minuets or so until it warms up. Should be self calibrated at that point.

  7. I don't think PSM would do anything unless you had more than 8 degrees of slip angle ...ie drifting the rear out at any point. That being said, traction control, which can't be disengaged, would definitely hamper a 0-60 run in the wet. The PSM system applies one or more of the brakes in order to attempt to cure oversteer and you would feel it. Traction control on the other hand is just that....an attempt to control wheel spin and keep traction. You will see a light flash on the dash if any of the above systems were intervening.

  8. The 364 number is the amount of times the engine fired in that type II over rev situation which is a down shift over rev situation... which means it's around 2.8 seconds or so of over-rev. Personally I wouldn't worry about it. These engines are being modified to run 600+ hp with stock internals so the internals are pretty **** tough. Now I don't recommend type II over-revs all the time but I don't think it should be a deal breaker. Just my .02 cents.

  9. I recently picked up an 02 gt2 and while detailing the car, noticed a dollar coin sized crease on the rear bumper.... anyone have any luck with pdr or will the bumper need to be filled and repainted, thanks. Scott

    Unfortunately the Urethane bumpers don't take well to being repainted... you run the risk of the paint bubbling or even cracking. To do it right the bumper needs to be replaced.

  10. You mean to tell me that the RMS problem still exists even with the new 997 NA motors? Or is it a option? Self changing oil.

    Thought about getting a RS but now I'm thinking of just sticking with the TT... they seem to be pretty bullet proof no matter how hard you drive them and I can't stomach paying that much for a car that leaks like a Harley no matter how cool it looks.

    Too bad... they are wicked good looking.

  11. Hi:

    Have 02 C4 Cab in Guards Red with 62K and have the itch for Turbo. Have couple of questions:

    1. Know it's subjective but drawn to lines of coupe but wonder if I'll miss the Cab. Anyone made the transition and regretted?

    2. Have my eyes on a 02 Polar Silver with 14K miles that is showroom condition for $55K firm. Does that seem fair. Being offered $27K for my C4, which is pretty optioned, and that seems a tad low but that's trade in & I don't want to deal with private sale. How accurate is Kelley Blue Book on Porsches?

    3. Does mileage trump year? i.e. all things being equal would you take 02 with 14K miles vs. 04 with 30K miles? Just don't know whether to lean towards later model car which will cost me quite a bit more.

    Many thanks, Fred

    Can't help with you #1, I'm a hardcore coupe guy...

    # 2. Dealers don't really use Kelly Blue Book.. they're more likely to use MMR which is a dealer only auction valuation tool. It tells them what specific cars are bought for by other dealers, nationwide (wholesale price). It's an up to the week tool too, it's values change with the market results.

    So according to MMR your C4 with 62K miles is higher mileage than avg. So from Jul 19th thru July 26th it's saying that on avg. dealers are paying (it has three grade levels) Above: Wholesale $35,8000 Retail: $44,500 Average: Wholesale $30,100 Retail: $37,600 Below: Wholesale: $24,300 Retail: $30,700 ("Above" are cars with usually low miles and they've sold for above the "Average" price, "Below" are cars with higher miles that have sold below the "Average" price.)

    Here's the last 6 wholesale transactions

    Date Auction Sale Type Price Odometer Cond Color Eng Trans

    09/25/09 NEVADA Lease $36,900 46,551 Avg YELLOW 6G 6

    11/04/09 BAY CITI Regular $40,000 33,990 Avg BLACK 6G A

    11/24/09 LAUD/MIA Regular $38,000 22,286 Avg SILVER 6G 6

    03/04/10 MANHEIM Regular $47,000 22,411 Above WHITE 6G 6

    03/09/10 FAAO Lease $27,100 69,048 Below BLACK 6G 6

    05/10/10 MANHEIM Lease $42,100 19,302 Above GRAY 6G A

    As far as the Turbo's go... it's strange. Sometimes the C4's are selling for as much as the Turbo's do, wholesale.

    Here's MMR on the 2002 Turbo.

    For Week Ending Jul 14

    Above Average Below May 2010 Jan 2010 Jul 2009

    Sale Price $36,407 $30,500 $24,593 $34,850 $37,000 $32,750

    Odometer 42,844 61,557 80,270 55,424 50,542 76,475

    Total Sold All 6

    Jul 19 - Jul 26 2010

    Above Average Below Aug 2010 Jul 2011

    Auction $47,300 $43,400 $39,500 $43,300 $42,100

    Est. Retail $63,000 $53,800 $44,800 $53,700 $50,700

    Date Auction Sale Type Price Odometer Cond Color Eng Trans

    07/01/10 RIVRSIDE Lease $30,500 61,557 Below BLACK 6G A

    05/06/10 GTR TMPA Regular $37,500 48,021 Avg SILVER 6G A

    05/05/10 W PALM Regular $32,200 62,827 Avg WHITE 6G A

    04/15/10 NEVADA Regular $39,000 35,659 Avg YELLOW 6G A

    04/01/10 MANHEIM Regular $39,500 35,323 Avg SILVER 6G A

    03/25/10 RIVRSIDE Regular $39,500 42,322 Avg SILVER 6G M

    Here's the 2004 Turbo's MMR

    For Week Ending Jul 14

    Above Average Below May 2010 Jan 2010 Jul 2009

    Sale Price $48,554 $43,500 $38,446 $0 $0 $0

    Odometer 11,639 23,277 34,916 0 0 0

    Total Sold All 1

    Jul 19 - Jul 26 2010

    Above Average Below Aug 2010 Jul 2011

    Auction $45,400 $42,100 $38,800 $41,900 $37,500

    Est. Retail $56,300 $51,900 $47,500 $51,600 $45,800

    Date Auction Sale Type Price Odometer Cond Color Eng Trans

    06/23/10 SEATTLE Lease $43,500 23,277 Avg GRAY 6GT 6

    05/04/10 RIVRSIDE Regular $25,000 64,522 Below GRAY 6G A

    04/20/10 BIG H Regular $40,000 44,962 Avg GRAY 6G A

    03/30/10 FAAO Regular $39,900 43,888 Avg SILVER 6G A

    11/19/09 RIVRSIDE Lease $48,000 41,265 Above BLACK 6G 6

    10/22/09 RIVRSIDE Lease $49,000 25,318 Above BLACK 6G 6

    Something else to think about.. sometimes low mileage sounds good in theory but if the car hasn't been driven that often in 8 years you could run into some issues if you plan on driving it a lot. Cars don't like to sit they like to be driven, if they sit too long parts like, hoses, gaskets, etc start to dry out. So you may have some small issues with a low mileage older car.

    So if I were you, I'd try to squeeze a little more out of the price they want to give you for your car, say $29K if it's optioned nicely and in great shape. Stick with your guns, tell them you're not even interested in any car on their lot until they agree to a price you want for yours and then make them put it in writing.

    $55K for the '02 Turbo seems okay... the "Est Retail" price that is listed above isn't so realistic these days. The dealers are lucky if they can get $3K to $5K above what they paid so figure you can probably come off their asking price by a grand. Also consider that they're paying as much or more for lower mileage examples of your C4 Cab than they are for normal mileage examples of Turbo's.

    Turbo's are a stellar deal right now...consider the window stickers on most were north of $120K.

  12. I am having a hard time periodically putting my car in first gear. It has a EVO short shifter which was installed by old owner. Clutch is good and working with no slippage. This happens at complete stops and normally i have to "double clutch" and force it in gear. Dosent happen all the time and if I put in first at rolling stop it has no issue. Anyone have a suggestion on what is going on? thanks.

    I had the same problem when I first bought mine... hard to get into first at a stop, sometimes I thought it was in first and then I'd let off the clutch to go and it would pop out and I'd be clammering to get a gear before the honks started. My first fix was to swap over to the 997 GT3 shift mechanism, and when I went to install it found out that the previous owner had installed a aftermarket short shift mechanism. Ahhh Haa! So I installed the new 997 GT3 mechanism and it fixed about 95% of the problem. Every once in a blue moon when I come to a stop it will be a little harder to put into first but its a rare occaison and it justs harder to push it in, not the false first I used to get.

  13. Last night I measured my afr and i would like to share with you guys and tell me what to you think about it

    at normal driving: 14.5-14.7

    ~3000rpm: 12.8

    4000rpm: 12.5-12.7

    5000rpm: 12

    6200++:11.7

    Thanks!

    The 14.7 at normal driving is good if you want good fuel economy...it's the stoichometric number for best use of Air and fuel, but... it's not the best number for power.

    But it looks like your car is fattening up the fuel the higher it revs so that's good and the fact that it's 12.8, 12.5, 12, etc is awesome. If you can keep the AFR close to 12.5 without detonation than you're optimal for power too. You just don't want to run that lean of AFR at high revs on a boosted car if you're getting knock. Looks great to me...

  14. Removing the BOSE speaker enclosure

    post-1-12710421057_thumb.png

    Removal Instructions

    1. Remove the cover trim 1 at the left and right towards the front.

    2. Unscrew the fastening screw 2 at the left and right.

    3. Pull the sound package 3 in the direction of the arrow out of the bracket 4 and fold over.

    4. Disconnecting the plug connection. Press plugs 5 together and pull apart.

    Then lift the carpet/foam cover. You can see the strut mounts in each corner.

    post-1-127104287679_thumb.jpg post-1-127104288032_thumb.jpg

    That was the directions that I was missing! Perfect!

    Now for a second question....

    Never having seen these installed on a car, does this look normal? There's a secondary spring on the PSS10's and with my car sitting on the ground it's practically bottomed out, doesn't look like that secondary spring can even move. Is that normal? I had them installed at a very reputable local shop, owner was even a crew chief for a Porsche Cup car... the only reason I'm questioning is that when I wentto adjust the rears (Thanks to you Loren) one side of the Bilstein adjuster was maxed and the other was Full Soft... seemed like a pretty rookie mistake.

    post-25218-127113069125_thumb.jpg

    post-25218-127113070872_thumb.jpg

  15. Carpet covered foam - that' all.

    There seems to be more to it than just pulling out some carpet... The shelf behind the rear seats appears to be attached somehow. The two Bose wooofer horns don't have any fasteners that I can see and I don't see any fasteners anywhere else.

    I have a .pdf service manual and it shows removing everything on the car except that rear interior...

    Clueless... anyone else with PSS9's or PSS10's attempt to adjust their rear struts?

  16. I have a 2001 996TT that is coding faulty rear wing lift. I checked the wing and the left hydralic is slighly leaking. Can this be repaired? If so how? I have read that the whole system has to be replaced. Any suggestions?

    Shoot me an e-mail (dustinr@nvbell.net) and I'll send you the 996TT / GT2 service manual. There's a good section about rebuilding the rear wing hyd's ... if anything, find a hyd. repair shop and show them the service pages and I bet they could fix it. Call a heavy equipment rental company and ask them whom they use to repair hydraulic pumps and cylinders.

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