Dus10R

I wanted to thank all those on this forum for all the valuable information. I completed the install of a 997 shifter into my 996 Turbo MY04 :D . I have not driven it after the install, but the stroke of the shifter seems and feels like an improvement. I will try out the my new shifter tomorrow.

Thanks again,

Art (aquinto)

Curious to hear your thoughts after you drive it; been thinking about doing this mod myself.

My mistake...

P1504 Throttle jacking unit, emergency air position - signal implausible

Possible fault cause

- No adaptation performed

- Throttle part

Throttle jacking is the egas throttle control on the side of the throttle body.

Is it unplugged?

Does the throttle butterfly move smoothly? Does it return closed when released?

It's plugged in for sure.

When I push the butterfly in, it does close smoothly, but I noticed that it doesn't go completely vertical and there is a small opening between the plate and the sidewall.

Is there something I else I needed to do after I put everything back in beside the reset/adaptation?

Just find it odd that it's throwing all of these codes after I cleaned it and put it back together, leads me to believe it was something I did and not just sensors going haywire.

Is this a 2004 996 TT (per your profile)?

P0507 Idle air control at stop - above limit

Possible fault cause

- Throttle is jammed

- Leaks in intake air system

P1109 Input variables, charge measurement - above limit

Possible fault cause

- Heavily soiled throttle

- Throttle adjusting unit faulty

- Mass air flow sensor faulty

P1505 Throttle Jacking Unit, Control Range - Open Circuit

Possible fault cause

- Open circuit

- Short circuit to B+

With all of these fault codes point to the throttle control I would start there.

Either something is not plugged in or something is jamming the throttle or there is an air leak.

Loren,

You listed fault P1505, is that the same as P1504?

Is this a 2004 996 TT (per your profile)?

P0507 Idle air control at stop - above limit

Possible fault cause

- Throttle is jammed

- Leaks in intake air system

P1109 Input variables, charge measurement - above limit

Possible fault cause

- Heavily soiled throttle

- Throttle adjusting unit faulty

- Mass air flow sensor faulty

P1505 Throttle Jacking Unit, Control Range - Open Circuit

Possible fault cause

- Open circuit

- Short circuit to B+

With all of these fault codes point to the throttle control I would start there.

Either something is not plugged in or something is jamming the throttle or there is an air leak.

How much of a gap should there be between the butterfly plate and the walls of the throttle body? And should the plate when its closed be completely up and down or is it at a slight angle? I noticed that the plate never completely closes / forms a tight seal with the wall. What is the "Throttle Adjusting Unit?"

Could my manually opening the butterfly plate hurt the throttle body?

The cars is a '04 Turbo

Car has been idling erratic upon start-up (no CEL's) for awhile. So after reading quite a few old posts I decided to clean my MAF and the throttle body. The MAF looked fine but I cleaned it anyway. The throttle body was pretty guncky on the back side so I cleaned it, removed the butterfly plate and cleaned it really good all around the edges and then I reinstalled everything. I also used the MAF sensor cleaner on the Bosch sensor inside of the "Y" pipe (not sure what the sensor is)

I reset the ECU via turning on the ignition and letting it sit till I heard the clicks in the enginge compartment, then I turned it off, and started it. First thing it did is idle way up to about 2500 and then idle way down and die. I restarted it, and it did the same thing, so I blipped the throttle to keep it running. So I took it for a drive and it drove fine. I did notice that the idle was a little high at stops with the A/C off, so I turnned off the A/C and the idle went up even higher.

Drove on a little bit more and then it threw a CEL. But it drove fine and at stops it was idling high but very consistant. So I stopped at a store and went inside, came out a few minutes later and the car wouldn't start. I reset it again and then it would start but it did the rev to 2500 and then way down and died.

So I got it home and checked the codes:

DTC Count = 3

Fault Number:P1109

Description:Porsche fault code 594 - Input variables charge

Repair Infomation:measurement

DTC Count = 3

Fault Number:P1504

Description:Porsche fault code 410 - DVE fault: necessary intake air

Repair Infomation:positon

DTC Count = 3

Fault Number:P0507

Description:Porsche fault code 32 - Idle control at stop

Any clues? my wife says every time I fiddle with someting it's worse after I mess with it, Im starting to believe her.

Also: what is the correct part number for the MAF? I've done numerous searches and I've seen two to three different part numbers.

I want whatever is the newest version that doesn't require the dealer to reprogram the ECU.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

you will need your ECU altered to use the Hitachi MAF...it is not plug and play...Do you have an aftermarket intake or filter? Any ECU flash? It is better to understand why the MAF is giving a false signal than to just implement potential solutions without understanding the fault. Others have cleaned the MAF to some reported benefit.

Stock intake but using a K&N which potentialy could have been over oiled. So I plan on cleaning the MAF and the throttle-body and then will take it from there. It just seems to me that I read about a bunch of MAF issues with the stock Bosch units and the tuners are switching to the Hitachi types which they claim are more robust. So these are not plug and play, they don't output a digital signal like the Bosch units do?

I see that some tuners are switching over to a Hitachi MAF sensor with thier tuning kits, are these better than the Bosch OEM units? I see where you can even buy a special tube that allows the Hitachi unit to fit "The Mode air intake tube is designed for the Prosche 996TT's needing to run a Hitachi Mass Air Flow Sensor. An opening has been made in the intake tube that allows the fitment of the Hitachi MAF sensor."

I've been having problems upon just starting the engine, especially on hot days, with the idle jumping up and down and sometime it will die. This only happens right when you start it and let it idle for a bit; after it's warmed up or driven a bit it doesn't do it.

I checked for codes and there are none, except one time, right when I started it I got a 115 Hot film MAF sensor code, which has led me to believe that the MAF may be the cause of my idling issue.

Anybody else use the Hitachi unit?

Hmmm...28Psi... I use a Tire Pyrometer to adjust tire pressures via the temperatures that run across the face of each tire (outside, middle , inside)

Last year I noticed that running OE Reccomended pressures caused the middle tire temps to be a lot higher than the avg of the outside and inside temps, which means to much air. I got the fronts down to 28psi which was the lowest pressure I felt safe running and the middle temps where still slightly higher (10 degrees) than the outside and inside temps. The rear I lowered to 36psi and the middle and inside temps were about the same (negative camber) with the center being slightly higher in some runs. But the fronts gave me pause. According to the tire temps they needed to come down in pressure even more but I just wasn't sure how low I could run them without risking the tire comming off of the wheels.

Yes GIAC offers a flashload....but they're a bit more expensive than some of the other competition....for example, when I checked into their X50 flash, they wanted $3,000. I ended up going to UMW and got it for $1295. The cost of a lot of the flash tunes are coming down as of recently......maybe it's the state of the economy....or maybe it's just that more competition is driving the prices down. Do your homework and don't just take the word of one or two folks....we all have our favorites and usually end up recommending what we happen to be running in our respective cars. On Rennlist there was a poll taken on who uses which brand with comments from quite a few folks on the pros and cons of the various tunes....go do a search there...try here too as well as over on Six Speed. Some are definitely better than others....look not only for recommendations....but also ongoing support and the ones that use the OBDII port rather than taking out and sending in your DME for an electronic lobotomy. Some vendors sell you the device that you keep in your possession that plugs into your OBD port and allows you to flash back to your stock map or to invoke different maps for different octane ratings....race gas etc. Those cost more so it depends upon what you are looking to do...what's your goal? Since I dont track my car, I just got the flash and did my diverter valves and upgraded the wastegate....

I want to be able to change Tunes without having to flash the ECU every time. If I normally run 91 octane, but I go and fill up with 93 or 100, I want to be able to change to that tune without having to plug some module into the OBDII port every time and run through a flash sequence. APR is the only company that I've found that offers that ability. But like I said earlier, if someone knows of another tuner that has the same feature I'm interested to know who they are.

Here's a cool little hidden easter egg that hasn't been well publicized.

This is per Porsche's own engineers.

If you lift up on the E-Brake handle just 1 click, it won't engage the E-Brake but it does disconnect the front drive.

Does PSM bypass the VC or is it limited by the VC? Example if the car is starting to oversteer will PSM be able to apply more teh 40% of the drive to the front wheels to correct the oversteer?

I've been driving around in my a4 w/ quattro all week in the snow here in New England and as every season I am more and more impressed with the quattro system. I know the 996 tt will run pretty well in snow with the right tires and wheels, but I can't imagine it will have the corrective capabilities that the audi does if it can't apply more the 40% force to the front wheels...or will it?

PSM has not much to do with the VC. PSM applies a break at any one corner to help reign in oversteer and is meant for dry roads not snow. The owners manual even says to turn it off when driving in snow. However, it will work in snow at slower speeds and will help correct the car from getting too squirelly, but it's operation is pretty evasive and you feel it constantly trying to correct. I tell my wife to keep it on when she's driving it because it will help correct some tail out issues she's not prepped to correct on her own. But with the system turned off, you need to have very quick reactions to what the car is doing. If it starts to slide / oversteer you need to correct for it fast or it will get beyond correctional control and will spin. So no, it's not as confidence inspiring as the Audi quatro system in snow, but it's really not meant to be either.

Great thank you! Sounds like I will have to just see for myself. Maybe I should consider a used STI as a replacement for the Audi.

Thanks,

Justin

Funny you mention the STi, I recently owned both a 2005 STi and a 2005 Evo VIII MR (bought both new). Long story short, the EVO was a better built car.

I'll give a run down...

STi: Cooler dash instruments, better stereo, more torque due to larger displacment, a hair better in snow.

Evo: Better Seats, Better Transmission, faster, better handling, more tuner friendly, more reliable (never in shop except for tune-ups; STi was in shop multiple times for squeaky struts, dash malfunctions, Exhaust rattles, leaky door seals) more solid built (STi rattled and squeaked like a John Deere tractor and water leaked in at car washes)

Compared to an Audi, they're both loud on the inside due to minimal sound deadening materials to save weight.

Both fun cars... but after selling them both I still miss my EVO. This is no joke, my Evo was more stable at 170mph than my Porsche TT (Evo makes more downforce) (STi won't due 170mph, limiter kicks in at 155mph.)

So if you drive in a lot of snow and that's your priority, then the STi is slightly better. The Evo does great in snow too but it's AWD system is more automatic whereas the STi lets you actually lock the torque split at 50/50. But when the roads dry out, the EVO is miles ahead.

Why was the APR Tuner post locked?

I have zilch to do with that company, I'm not employed or paid in any fashion and they have no idea who I am.

The post wasn't angry or argumentative and was meant to help someone that lives nearby to APR get a free tune.

There was an ongoing discussion as to why someone might donate their car to a company for testing when there are multiple tried and true tuners already existing; but it was not a harmful post by any stretch of the imagination.

I was lobbying for APR only because in my humble opinion they offer a product that has features no other tuner has. If any other tuner in existance already has a tune for a 996 Turbo X50 in which you can change maps on the fly via the dash controls would someone please let me know who they are so I can check it out.

There are already a number of established and reputable tuners who have had their products on the market for years...thus passing the acid tests of time and trial by fire (figuratively of course). The only difference I see here is a different approach to capturing more variables....although how that equates to a much superior tune or noticably better performance is yet to be seen. Given the additional variables they claim....I would want to see this system field tested for some time before I would take it over a product that's been designed, R and D'd, and run on different cars for some time.....there's also the fact that some of the better known tuners are coming down in price and are offering some killer deals. This new company would have to compete with those prices as an unknown entity while at the same time trying to recoup a lot of money they spent in R and D.

For guys like me who don't regularly track their cars, we're fairly satisfied with the performance enhancements offered by the established folks at reasonable prices....not to say that there isn't room for a new and potentially better product. I'd also be a bit skittish about offering up my car as a beta test platform for the X50 version of the product....unless there was a clear cut contractual agreement for full engine replacement in the event it messed something up....and that's an easy $20K.

APR isn't a new company, and they're def. not a fly by night tuner. One of the most popular tuners for our Turbo's is UMW, which if you look up their address is a residential home. Not saying they're not good and that the guy doesn't know what he's doing, but even he had to start somewhere. APR is a very well established engineering firm and is no joke in the word of aftermarket tuning. Ask any Audi enthusiast what tuners they lust after and they're going to say HPA and APR. Does this look like the headquarters for a company that's practicing?

Does PSM bypass the VC or is it limited by the VC? Example if the car is starting to oversteer will PSM be able to apply more teh 40% of the drive to the front wheels to correct the oversteer?

I've been driving around in my a4 w/ quattro all week in the snow here in New England and as every season I am more and more impressed with the quattro system. I know the 996 tt will run pretty well in snow with the right tires and wheels, but I can't imagine it will have the corrective capabilities that the audi does if it can't apply more the 40% force to the front wheels...or will it?

PSM has not much to do with the VC. PSM applies a break at any one corner to help reign in oversteer and is meant for dry roads not snow. The owners manual even says to turn it off when driving in snow. However, it will work in snow at slower speeds and will help correct the car from getting too squirelly, but it's operation is pretty evasive and you feel it constantly trying to correct. I tell my wife to keep it on when she's driving it because it will help correct some tail out issues she's not prepped to correct on her own. But with the system turned off, you need to have very quick reactions to what the car is doing. If it starts to slide / oversteer you need to correct for it fast or it will get beyond correctional control and will spin. So no, it's not as confidence inspiring as the Audi quatro system in snow, but it's really not meant to be either.

But then again, if nobody is interested, come a few months down the road I might just take some vacation time and drive down there and let them use my car. It would save me about $2K in the long run. I really have no affiliation with these guys at all, they just told me that they need an X50 car so that they can get the tune correct and then they'll have an option for me. Any technical questions you may have you'll have to ask them directly via thier contact info.

Are you trying to sell this?

No I'm not trying to sell it. I just really like their product and they don't have an option for a X50 Turbo. So if someone close to them lets them use their car they'll get the hardware and tune for free and I'll get to pay full price once they offer it for X50 cars.

From the development process to the technical features, no other tuner offers the same innovation and refinement that you'll get from APR. Many months have been spent developing the best chip available for the 996 Twin Turbo. We go far beyond the traditional steps of just "raising the boost" and "advancing the timing". Extra steps must be taken. Typical data logging software used by most tuners is capable of capturing 4 variables at 3 samples per second. APR's proprietary data acquisition software captures as many as 30 variables at around 22Hz. That's an incredible 55 times more data gathered per second.

"...extra steps other tuners can't take."

To dramatically increase power and maintain factory drivability there are many factors to be considered. One of note is the internal boost-controller, which requests boost according to load measured by the ECU. Inconsistencies and "surging" are things you will not feel in APR software because we properly match the cars actual boost produced with the load-based requested boost from the ECU. This is where "55 times more data" goes from intangible numbers to a smoothness you can feel. It helps duplicate the characteristics normally found only from the factory. Such precise matching you will not find in other software. These are extra steps other tuners can't take.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I've been trying for months to get APR to create their chip for the X50. They just sent me an e-mail that said they would create one but they need someone to loan them an X50 Turbo so that they can create it correctly. Whomever donates their car will get the hardware and software for free. If I lived anywhere even remotely close I'd jump on this in a heartbeat. Their ECU is probably one of the slickest I've seen. It allows you to swap programs via the cruise control function in your car. You can change between "stock," "chipped- 91 or 93," "Race-100," "Valet," "Security Lockout," it even has fault code erase and a throttle body alignment function.

APR EMCS Functionality

APR Tuned 997 Turbo Video

If anyone near to APR is interested please contact:

Chris Gigon

Sales Representative/Financing Manager

APR, LLC. Phone: (800)680-7921

4800 US Hwy. 280 W. Tech: (334)502-5181

Opelika, AL 36801 Fax: (334)502-5180

Most of the X50's I've seen have been full leather interiors...seats, dash, door panels, rear sides, column posts....and alcantra leather for the headliner. I know my previous 99 996 had plastic dash and door panels, but most of the TT's have the leather interiors.

Does anyone have one that doesn't have leather dash and door panels?

It's probably leather, but I just wanted to make sure..

Funny thing... I have a bottle of Maguires Vinyl and Rubber protectant and the picture on the outside of the bottle is of a 996 turbo dash! So it made me question my original thought that it was a leather dash.

Not sure what material the dash is made of, is it leather or pleather? Same with the door pocket lids? I want to clean and preserve them just not sure what they're made of.

i have an 01 turbo with about 9000 miles on it now, when i am cruising on the highway with my RPM floating around 3000 rpm or 3400 rpm with maybe 10-20% throttle the car would misfire/hesitate..

However it does not have any signs of this hesitation when i am on the throttle and just revving the gear out.

Any idea what this might be?

TIA

How bad is it? Is it a bad "loose power" hesitation or is it a quick hic-up type? You could be right there at the rpm range where the wastegate is opening and closing which will cause a very slight stutter.

hi,

I have a 2001 996tt with Tiptronic and have spent some time driving less than perfect roads and have found PSM activating in some interesting circumstances:

a) steep downhill winding tight curves, off the throttle, the PSM activates with no foot brake application, throttle application or oversteer/understeer situation. What I believe is that the PSM detects wheel slip on the tight steep corners (steep hairpins) and applies corner braking to 'help' correct the situation. This happens even if you think your speed is ok for the corner but PSM detects some wheel slip, you might just catch the PSM light, but most times your too busy working out what happened, rather than catching the PSM light flash. you might hear the typical sound of ABS, no event is logged.

B) on rough tarmac with sharp dips and bumps and at speed, PSM activates which I believe is again caused by wheel slip detection as a tyre breaches a dip/bump combination, or the rear end steps off (sideways) on a bump. Again you think the speed is fine and probably is but the road surface upsets the road/tyre contact and PSM steps in. Again it's quick you might notice the brake pedal push back if your decide trail braking, and probably missed the PSM light flash. I've had this happen at 180kph mid corner on a sharp short bump.

In all the cases PSM has activated when road speed has been ok for the corners, but the road undulations cause PSM to interpret a wheel slip/traction issue and then activates, which can be take one by surprise and further upset the cars balance. I most cases the PSM intervention is quick and short and leaves little time for the driver to assess what has happened, except after the event.

Scott

I think you are spot on...

It only happens when going down hill on a fairly steep road, and the PSM light is coming on, I just didn't notice it before. Still doesn't give me any warm and fuzzies... it throws the balance off pretty bad.

... Escort 9500i mounted on the windshield...

Ben

Not to go too OT, but I thought that it was illegal in CA to have anything attached to your windshield (radar detector, GPS, Sat radio, etc.) Any mention of that by the officer?

Ed

I don't think they have a law like that; my truck drivers run a device that's issued by the state called Quick Pass and they recommend mounting it to the windshield.

Went for a drive today up one of our local curvy roads. Car was great up and most the way back; but then I go into a left hand corner and right about the apex I hear a quiet sound that sounds like I just drove over a small cattle guard, the car instantly starts to understeer and pull to the outside of the corner like a brake was being applied, then it stopped and was fine. Luckily I was driving fairly mellow at the time.

It freaked me out a little because I don't want that happening while the pace is upped, in the middle of a corner. So I drove normal for a little while and didn't feel anything out of place; no codes showing. So I upped my pace a little and get into a corner and it happened again. This time I noticed that it happened right around the same time that I came into contact with some small wash-board type bumps, nothing major at all, you woudn't even notice them normally. So the car lurches, pulls to one side, and slows itself a tad bit. hmmm.

So I turn off PSM, wick up the pace a bit and go through some corners now trying to hit the small bumps and I can't get it to do anything. So I turn PSM back on and hit a few corners aiming for the bumps and it's fine. Then I go around another corner and it did it again.

No fault codes on the dash display at all. So now I'm a little freaked and I don't trust the car. I know that if I take it into Porsche and it doesn't read any fault codes there probably isn't a whole lot they can do. They're not going to go actually drive it at a good pace through corners to duplicate the problem.

Anyone have an Idea what it may be?

Are you running different brands of tires on front/rear? What you are describing has happened to me since I made the mistake of mixing tire brands. My next pair will depend on whether the front or rear go first. My guess is the rears (RE050's) will go first even tho they are a better wearing tire than the PZero's on the front, which are better traction tires. At that point I'll put on a full set of som'thin.

I'm interested in how your situation resolves. Good luck.

I'm running Michelin Pilot sport Rib's front and back.

Wow...kind of disheartening. I've been told by others on other forums that this is probably normal. That bites! Not real confidence inspiring to be driving your car through a bumpy corner and the car automatically applies a brake to one wheel which unbalances the car. PASS: Porsche Anti-Stability System. Seems like that would be a very big glitch which could open Porsche up to potential law suits if there happened to be an accident caused by their Stability Management program.

Went for a drive today up one of our local curvy roads. Car was great up and most the way back; but then I go into a left hand corner and right about the apex I hear a quiet sound that sounds like I just drove over a small cattle guard, the car instantly starts to understeer and pull to the outside of the corner like a brake was being applied, then it stopped and was fine. Luckily I was driving fairly mellow at the time.

It freaked me out a little because I don't want that happening while the pace is upped, in the middle of a corner. So I drove normal for a little while and didn't feel anything out of place; no codes showing. So I upped my pace a little and get into a corner and it happened again. This time I noticed that it happened right around the same time that I came into contact with some small wash-board type bumps, nothing major at all, you woudn't even notice them normally. So the car lurches, pulls to one side, and slows itself a tad bit. hmmm.

So I turn off PSM, wick up the pace a bit and go through some corners now trying to hit the small bumps and I can't get it to do anything. So I turn PSM back on and hit a few corners aiming for the bumps and it's fine. Then I go around another corner and it did it again.

No fault codes on the dash display at all. So now I'm a little freaked and I don't trust the car. I know that if I take it into Porsche and it doesn't read any fault codes there probably isn't a whole lot they can do. They're not going to go actually drive it at a good pace through corners to duplicate the problem.

Anyone have an Idea what it may be?

Are you running different brands of tires on front/rear? What you are describing has happened to me since I made the mistake of mixing tire brands. My next pair will depend on whether the front or rear go first. My guess is the rears (RE050's) will go first even tho they are a better wearing tire than the PZero's on the front, which are better traction tires. At that point I'll put on a full set of som'thin.

I'm interested in how your situation resolves. Good luck.

I'm running Michelin Pilot sport Rib's front and back.