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racer08

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  • From
    Jacksonville, FL
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    99 C2

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  1. racer08
    So if I do it how your're suggesting, do I need the vacuum lines, vacuum reservoir, etc. Sorry I just don't quite understand. My mufflers arrive tomorrow, so once I actually get them, it will make more sense. Thanks for the help.
  2. racer08
    I got a great buy on some PSE's off Ebay and would like to hook up the electronics to them. Please don't tell me not to bother because I'll love the sound, it's too difficult, etc., etc. I've had bypass pipes on for the last 3 years and I know how it sounds. :thumbup: However I'd like to install the switch so that when my wife is riding with me or I receive a call from the office, I'm not struggling to hear. I have attached the following list from the PSE TSB. Is there anything else I might possilby need in anyone's experience? If I order all of this, I would not need the kit sold by Carnewal, correct? (click on electronics, PSE switch under P96, then retrofit install kit) Any ideas about the parts that do not have numbers (spacer sleeve and retaining bracket)? Lastly, does anyone have this stuff laying around and want to part with it. :thankyou: Forgot to add. The PSEs I bought were the first generation style. The one with the 1 3/4" or so bypass pipe. Does that make any difference to the PSE TSB instructions?
  3. racer08
    PN is 996-106-226-52 for anyone who might need this in the future. Took about 20min to change being careful not to break the new part.
  4. racer08
    This is a thread over from Rennlist. The guy had the same failure as I did. Anyone have a PN for the hose/connector in the picture. Thanks http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...ad.php?t=437977
  5. racer08
    Thanks for the tips everyone. Just measured 130mm from where the white wire exits the harness and my remote is now working reliably at over 100ft. (Even works at the end of my driveway which is great!!)
  6. racer08
    Nevermind. Figured it out. I decided to disconnect the cable and it idled great. Then I noticed the cable wouldn't extend the full length it should to be at the idle position. Then I realized what I did. I installed the black retainer for the throttle cable upside down in the throttle body housing thus shortening my cable by about 3/8 of an inch which was causing the motor to rev. Now it runs perfect. Guess I shouldn't have been doing this at sunset. Oh well no harm no foul. Thanks anyway.
  7. racer08
    I posted a couple of days ago about topping up my oil while the motor was running and my car running roughly afterwards. This afternoon, it was still running very roughly so I decided to clean the Throttle body. This is the first time it has ever been cleaned with almost 77K miles so it was very oily with a lot of carbon build up. Anyhow after removing the T.B. and cleaning and reassembling I expected to start it up and hear it purr but instead it rocketd up to about 5000-5500 RPM. I tapped the throttle a couple of times but it doesn't do anything but rev even higher. I tried this about 3 times and decided to stop as I don't think it's good for the motor to be shut off at 5K RPM. Any ideas? I checked all electrical connections, I triple checked the throttle cable is routed correctly and is not binding. Right now I disconnected the battery and decided to ask for help before I f things up. Thanks.
  8. racer08
    Thanks for checking Loren, Hopefully I didn't screw the thing up. Will keep you updated Well I got home a little bit ago and took the unit back out checked everything, put everything back together and WA LAH! It works again. :clapping: I have no clue. Must have been a loose connection or something. Anyhow thanks for your legwork in trying to help me. Everytime I have come here you guys are always able to help. Thanks again.
  9. racer08
    Thanks for checking Loren, Hopefully I didn't screw the thing up. Will keep you updated
  10. racer08
    Sorry about that, I thought I had that in my signature here (must be on rennlist) Anyway 99 C2 Coupe with manual trans. Thanks for your time.
  11. racer08
    Nobody knows?? I had to drive to work with the window all foggy again this morning. Any suggestion would be helpful. Thanks.
  12. racer08
    Thanks for the reply Loren. I'll give it a couple of days.
  13. racer08
    When I started my car to go to work this morning I noticed it was time to add some oil. I backed out of the garage, popped the rear deck and opened the oil filler cap. I noticed immediately the idle changed but assumed it was just because of the vacuum difference and it would be OK once I finished adding the oil and replaced the lid. However, the idle quality was very rough even after replacing the oil cap. I could hardly get my car to back down the driveway. Once I got it going on the highway it purred just like a kitten (as much as a 996 can purr with bypass pipes) but when I would come to a stop it would idle high around 1600 RPM and slow drop to around 1000 which is about right but it still felt like it had a miss. When I started the car to leave work this afternoon, again the car would hardly idle and eventually died once. I was able to restart it and rev it a little (even this was hard to do) and get going but not sure what's going on. Should I disconnect the battery cable and let the computer relearn its settings or just leave it. Is it wrong to take off the oil filler cap while the engine is running? Thanks.
  14. racer08
    Last night I took out my A/C controls to change the LEDs from amber to blue. However, when driving to work this morning, my windshield kept fogging up because the AC was blowing out of the top vents even though the display said the top was off. Upon further inspection, the AC is blowing out of the top, dash, and foot well vents even when the display shows they are off. Is there a fuse to the motor that controls the vent door or anything else I might check? Thanks for any ideas.
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