3ball

Loren, if i was within 1000 miles, I'd hug you. Ordering one later this month from you guys!

2002 Boxster, standard (manual) transmission - looking for the PN for the clutch itself, no flywheel needed.

2004 Cayenne Turbo - Transfer Case (if there's a kit needed to replace one, the kit part number would be appreciated instead!)

I forgot to add: The wine project adds the .NET infrastructure for the durametric... finally. Pictures will be coming when it doesn't look like I've got a gutted computer sitting in the passenger seat. Ive got the setup done well designed enough to keep the PC in the glovebox, and replace the existing screen with the touchscreen.

I can post pics of the interface, the parts, the horrible temporary installs I use each weekend, and upload my custom ISO for anyone interested. Or if you're in the Houston, TX area, show you in exchange for help on the wiring of the PCM :)

Update:

I'm going forward with a few slight changes since this was updated.

I've since changed the computer to a fit-pc2 (http://www.fit-pc.com/web/) with a small SSD (32gb). I've managed to configure it to automatically use my jailbroken iphone as a tethered internet device using bluetooth or USB (my choice), as well as . Up to this point, I've had to rely on a windows installation, but I've gotten enough lead time now on the project I've been able to use Ubuntu 10.04 and Wine to create a distributable ISO of the drive to replicate easily to other users. I'm still not ready to modify my dash permanently, but it's coming. I have a 9 inch capacitive touchscreen I ordered direct from China (roughly $280) I have in a temporary mount as the display. I'm booting to a self-modified Gnome gui for presentation (I took chunks of the netbook remix and the HP Mini ubuntu distro and massaged them into a coherent theme) that has touchscreen in mind. I've changed the fontsize and scripted behavior to open each application you hit into a different desktop (for easy retention and recall). I have a small automotive PSU with a small battery for gentle shutdown. My biggest hurdle left is how to implement the screen without disabling my PCM - I hated the touchscreen overlay idea. It worked but it looked too amateur for me. That project is for later this summer when it's not 95 degrees outside. Total cost to me so far is a ridiculous amount, but most of that is due to trying different screens, software packages, computers, etc etc etc. Actual projected cost for another installation would be in the $600 neighborhood.

Currently, I can:

GPS location

- navigate using google earth. it's not as application specific as i want, but it works perfectly and is free. It updates maps by itself, and keeps my location in realtime

Websurfing

-I typcally use chrome, but I found 'touchscreen access' for firefox which works great!

Music Applications

- Pandora iPhone app: I use this because it's unlimited and free. The website has a cap based on monthly usage I want to avoid

- streaming websites

- in-dash controls using a m0bridge audio interface

control the computer itself using the touchscreen

-use a bluetooth keyboard/mouse for additional input

- i'm working on a voice command solution, but that's months off, and I want this finalized before Thanksgiving!

act as a wireless access point for any in-car laptops/devices using WPA2-TKIP

monitor my system using the Durametric Enthusiast adapter

-pretty much permanently installed the way I have it now; too big of a pain to remove frequently

-can be removed, but I'll need to modify the USB port locations. I want to place one near the OBD2 port so I can just yank it and take it to another car

Monitor my car with the computer

- updates my website with the last known GPS location and speed (from Durametric read) every 60 seconds

- dumps the durametric log every 24 hours

- enables a VPN connection to my website. I can actually use this to communicate back to the onboard computer. So far it's limited in application, but I can eventually do an OnStar style remote disable (need an EE before I get silly with this part - I could do some permanent damage), as well as other fun things - maybe video conference whoever's driving, take pics of driver, voip call the car, etc.

Software needed:

Ubuntu 10.04

Wine 1.1.41

Google Earth (v5.something)

Durametric Porsche Diagnostic Tools 6.0

Hardware necessary:

fit-pc2 (diskless) - $345+shipping

8.9" capacitive touchscreen - $306 (was my cost)

Durametric Enthusiast - $287+shipping

Optional Hardware:

internet providing device (jailbroken iphone, 3G wap, whatever you want)

bluetooth mouse/keyboard ($50+)

relocate and mount USBs (about $40 so far in cords, mounts, etc)

m0bridge Audio (I can't remember, it's been years)

I'm looking for three parts for a 2004 Cayenne Turbo:

one covers the bolt on the rear wiper assembly, as seen below.

the next part is the license plate light assembly. There's two of them, i'm missing the one on the left, as seen below.

The third is easy; my rear gate's lifting capability is underpowered. I replaced this part in a mustang about 10 years ago, it was just a pressurized hydraulic cylinder. I'm hoping it's an easy piece here too!

Anyone have these part/kit numbers?

I was at 78k and change when it started acting odd. And I'm very sure I won't run across a Japanese car (outside a GT-R) that has a 7 thousand dollar transmission...

I've done some horrible, nasty, dirty things to a nissan stanza that should get me beaten by the engineers, and it still ran like a champ for another 6 years (and I never told my ex-gf about it either, man that was fun!). Based on my experience, I'd figure the Cayenne just had a few engineering flaws, which I expected, but not that I was prepared for. I am part to blame because I still love the CTT; it's staying in the stable. I'm just irritated.

What sort of driving behaviors cause automatic transmissions to fail? Could I have done something weird? I feel guilty, but I can't figure I did anything out of the ordinary. I did take TCS off about once or twice a week for fun...

So I a while back when I posted odd behavior, i took my 04 CTT to the dealership in Mobile, AL.

Symptoms:

increasing frequency of denial to shift out of neutral at stoplights (would move to N and sit there), then would drop to first gear and burn all four tires snatching you across the intersection. VERY UNSAFE.

increasing frequency of shifting from any gear to 5th on easing off accelerator, for no reason at all, and refusing to go back (luckily I live in a flat city, or this would have been massively expensive for me and someone behind me)

They told me I needed a new transmission, and it would cost $8000+labor. I balked, since I drove it there, and drove it home. That's flat out insane. So instead I took it to a local transmission shop who replaced it with an porsche reman for under $6000. Still rough as hell, but it runs perfect now.

I haven't done anything crazy or out of the ordinary driving the car. I have a perfect service record. This will be my last Porsche ever, after this miserable experience. It took a lot of effort not to just offload the car for anything Japanese.

I'm very displeased with the entire experience. The only saving grace so far was I didn't require yet another trip back to the dealership. I can say that I was pleased with the dealership itself; their service personnel did seem polite though not very helpful in explaining the resolution besides "it aint workin! You want to write a check for a new transmission today?"

So for the immediate future, I've delayed my plans to modify the Cayenne's nav system. Luckily, I've designed the system independent of the platform, and have successfully tested it outside of the vehicle. I've designed it with open-source in mind, so anyone can put this system on their car/truck regardless of make or model. Code works fine for ipod and zune integration, *most* DVD playback (blu-ray hasn't been tested), mp3/wave/aac all work, and wireless access point through tethering a USB modem/phone works. Touchscreen is still difficult; I am trying to find someone will to code me a linux driver cheaply with little luck. But at least I made it that far...

I just had this happen yesterday. Did you happen to get any coolant leak into the intake. My mechanic found a slit trace of coolant on the intake valves and is not positive it's from this or a head gasket. I really don't want to have to replace my head gaskets on a guess:) Thanks for any advice!!!! Bill

There was coolant everywhere. If you're getting a slight trace, it's probably not the pipes. This piece is known to break lengthwise, and the coolant line is under pressure so it will be a large volume escaping when it finally loses integrity.

I think you've got a different problem based on my experience with this fault.

As far as the process to replace this part, it's not bad. It's listed as a 4.5 hour job, and does not require any porsche specific tools. It will require taking the upper off to reach the part location below, but that's not real bad if you're comfortable with say, a head gasket.

A little more research says the P0700 code indicates the transmission has thrown a fault code, and is a pointer to the other code, which is the actual problem. Now, to figure out what "Input shaft speed inductive pickup" means...

Fault Number:P0700

Description:Transmission Control System

Fault Number:17105

Description:Input shaft speed inductive pickup

Transmission either hesitates then revs pretty high on 1-2 shift, or from red lights, it will stick to 5th gear and make me roll out on that. Scary prospects either way! I finally managed enough time to hook the durametric up to it, and got the above codes. Any suggestions, besides drive off a cliff?

Hi guys!

I've been working on this project for over a year now, and I've finally felt comfortable enough to announce my specs.

I have managed to put a PC (converted from an ASUS eee 901 netbook) as an alternate input on the video display. It allows normal stock data plus tomtom/XM/bluetooth/internet on the go, with a touchscreen overlay. It's cost me about $2500 in test parts, but I figure the actual cost to be ~$500 in parts for a good model with my setup. I'm working on an open-source XML interface now based on ubuntu linux that can just be installed to the hardware with the interface/touchscreen/gps package pre-configured. I've got it to tether internet with my iphone, so I can charge/play music from it.

I chose a cheap netbook to assist me in power management and the EEE is the most ubiquitous model. I'm real sketchy when it comes to linking into the existing power, so I set the power for the laptop to be tied into the CDC circuit. I chose the CDC since I installed a m0bridge ipod unit a while back, and because familiar with the wiring/power settings on that loop. I have the laptop's AC charger set to an inverter that connects to the DC supply during engine-on phase. I have the netbook set to put itself to hibernate after 2 minutes. That puts the netbook in a quickly bootable state and allows it to stay more or less permanently on given I drive the car at least once a week.

I have used a resistive TFT screen overlay for a touchscreen. I'm still struggling with this though; I went through several types to find some that don't suck. I'm still looking. I'd prefer a capacitive touchscreen, but they are still fairly new tech and WAY expensive for this project (would probably double the cost). I'm tempted to wait and see about gesture commands and a pinhole webcam, but that would take to **** long to be ready.

I'm using two different physical EEEs. One is set with XP (there's a LOT of premade interfaces for xp!), the other is my linux test ride. I WANT to go all linux, but I also want to take advantage of the Durametric tools. If only they'd program in anything but .NET!

I'm not going into detail about the linux setups just yet, I manage to break them constantly. As soon as I have a stable release, I'll sourceforge a copy if anyone is interested. Yes, it will be entirely open source. I'm hoping I can learn enough to set it up as a normal update that can be pulled easily, but that's WAY down my list. I'm looking at doing bluetooth when possible, so I can just get in the vehicle and not worry about it. Enabling the wifi tether burns the battery if you leave it on, and requires manual intervention to enable/disable. I'm not a good enough reverse engineer to script that function without a bluetooth hook, so no bluetooth on the v2 linux setup.

So far, Both versions have stable releases, but I'm a little OCD about presentation. I'm still iffy on the XP one (the response is somewhat laggy, but I'm still working on it), but unless Durametric decides to port to a more OS-friendly language, I'm going to maintain a windows version. The linux version is not bad, and performance is acceptable.

XP install price (in USD): $566

EEE 900: $165

StreetDeck 2.0: $99

LCD TFT overlay+usb interface: $45

XP license: varies, but I'd estimate $100 depending on your method. (I use TechNet myself)

LCD VGA aux tap: $88

Earthmate GPS BT-20 with Street Atlas USA 2009 PLUS: $69

Linux install price: $397

EEE 900: $165

LCD VGA aux tap: $88

LCD TFT overlay+usb interface: $45

GlobalSat BU-353 USB GPS Receiver: $39

Bluetooth OBD2: $60

XP:

itunes (allows iphone tethering, fair music play)

Durametric enthusiast v1

StreetDeck (interface, media player, etc)

GPS: Street Atlas USA 2009 PLUS

Linux software packs:

Try 1: Ubuntu 8.04

http://icculus.org/obdgpslogger/ for GPS/OBD2 (no Durametric available for linux...)

jailbroken iphone bluetooth tether

Try 2: LinuxICE for interface, media, navigation

I prefer this setup, and will be using this for the linux version.

jailbroken iphone wifi tether

-----------------------

Next step: posting screenshots of the interface in action. I'm still working on it, but it's ugly. I will post a work log when I get to the point of a linux release candidate (ETA - September-November 09, next time I get enough time to make progress!)

I understand there is no way to turn off the traction control.

I have a button on my dash that disables traction control. Red triangle, top dead center button above the display for radio/nav. I'd expect you have the same, but no guarantees.

04 turbo owner here, I get ~11mpg if i drive aggressively, and around 15 for normal city cruising steady at 40-50mph.

The mpg decreases drastically the faster you go over 70. That's all I'll say.

It could be just about anything, really. If I read it correctly, you say there are two LEDs and no switches, so no chance of input. Since there's two of them I would assume there's a reason to have two outputs. Radar might be front/back, but if he spent enough money for a custom setup he better have gotten the good one which does sides too!

Are the lights always on? always off? do they ever change status? Are there any other custom wires visible anywhere under hood? (custom wires would be ANY wires visible).

13-15 mpg daily on a 04 Turbo, and i "drive it like i stole it" about 1-2 days a week.

I noticed towing milage to be in the low teens at best, I'd say 11-13. I was towing 4200 lbs over 140 miles at 45-65 mph.

The difference between turbo and S is nothing, until you want to feel some speed. The S is respectable, but not quick. It's just a standard SUV when it comes to quickness. The turbo is rediculously fast; even powerful sports cars will need to be on their toes just to pass you.

More seriously... consider the fact if you're worrying about gas milage, you're *really* buying the wrong vehicle.

Why do you want a locking fuel cap? Doesn't your fuel door lock when the doors lock? My 06Cs does.

04 turbo, my fuel door locks as well. I've heard sad stories of cruel fees from dealerships for using 3rd party fuel caps.

hi there,

definatly the plastic coolant pipes

they are known for cracking or beaking on early 03/04 cayenne S models

the pipes are just under the inlet manifold,

dont drive the car!!

get them replaced

I had this happen to me. $700 "upgrade" kit and $1000 later, it is fixed. You won't be able to drive it for long with that leaking; it's pretty darn critical. And it could potentially be a destroyed engine if you get low on coolant! Just man up and get it fixed. I have pictures of the kit, before, during, and after on my Cayenne's open-heart surgery of this if you want.

Hi,

I bought a 04 Cayenne tt with 60k miles on it, and one thing I notice is the turbo boost gauge only will reach 0.6. is this normal?

Push the skinny pedal harder. :D

Seriously though, turn off PSM and try again. Can you feel the boost on acceleration? The vehicle should surge in power after an upshift from high RPM.

I put a Extend Waranty on my '05 Cayenne S for another 3yrs/36k for $2500......... I am still in factory-warranty til May '09 but after that....

If I had bought an extended warranty, I would have almost paid for it with a SINGLE repair. ONE REPAIR.

If I did it over again, I would not have balked, even if it were 6k. If I get slammed with another repair over $3000 anytime soon, I'm going to claim it as a loss on insurance; after you calculate the value lost over the last year or so I figure buying the vehicle cost me $3000 per month in depreciation and repairs for 14 straight months.

I'm pretty sure the color of the brake calipers signify a configuration. Might want to think twice about; that if you do paint them, I would make SURE that's documented and on the checklist to notify whomever works on the vehicle's brake system. But then again, it would probably be obvious to someone who works on brakes all day!

The 2004 Cayennes used a CD-based nav system, not a DVD-based nav system. The CD-based system loads into a CD slot on in the dash - there's nothing under the seat (just an empty drawer). I'm not sure if the DVD system will read the data from the CD - it sounds like it might, but I'd try to find the newest DVD maps and software and install those. They should be readily available at the dealer.

The DVD and CD Navigation systems are in no way interchangeable/swappable. Each requires a different hardware spec. To move from one to the other requires hardware.

Either A. buy the new DVDs, B. buy a used set on ebay, or C. replace your Nav system. Garmin/Tomtom make good enough temporary solutions, and can migrate between vehicles. I'm still working on a custom double-din solution myself; if I can get it to talk to the MOST system i'll update and post a worklog. It works great... in a Saturn test car.

Porsche recommends only FGR 6 KQE.

If you're running an S or turbo, I'd go with Loren/Porsche recommendations.

I don't have any great advice here...maybe someone else has encountered this problem, however, no other replies. I looked at my latch assembly on both the '06 and '08 and it is very simple...the problem is there is not a way to release in between the cover and storage area (e.g. latch locks below the console). The release will need to come from the assembly where the latch came apart (front of console at latch assembly). Have you checked with the dealer to see if they can provide you a schematic of the assembly? You might PM Loren or RJM to see if a schematic is available.

Good luck!

Bill

Dremel + 2 earth magnets. Fix it for $1100 less than replacement cost!

They are actually under your intake manifold.

This attached photo shows the black plastic intake installed (yeah, it's broken).

--edit: Well, I was going to post images of my intake that busted and the aluminum intake upgrade kit, but this board is either A. incompatible with both Chrome and IE7, or B. Vista. PM me your email and I can send you install photos, closeups, and images of the new kit and old part.