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Everything posted by Jameslovesporsches

  1. So, got rid of the P0455 code with a new gas cap! However, still getting P1123 and P1125 codes. I found an earlier post from Loren, but don't really understand how to look into the suggestions: Initially, I was thinking a MAF sensor cleaning was in order, but that's just me guessing. Need some direction... please help. EVAP canister purge valve... where around the rear of the car do I find it? Thanks for the assistance. James
  2. Tool Pants, On my car, the area of the set screw feels wiggly. Like it's a somewhat loose, is this normal? Or is this area supposed to have little to no flex? I can easily push the clamshell side to side when it is in the air, don't know if this is normal. Thank you. James
  3. Can anybody detail their knowledge about the "slides" for adjusting the Boxster's clamshell? The two front corners of my clamshell are equally lower (not completely flush) with the rest of the car's body. Any suggestions? I was thinking of just yanking on each side by hand to try to get the front of the clamshell flush with the rest of the car. Thanks for the help. James
  4. Hey everyone, Got those 3 codes on a 99 996 tiptronic. P1123, P1125, and P0455. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot. Could all 3 be linked to a gas cap problem (esp P0455)? Also, does anyone know what needs to be fixed to pass inspection in Texas. Codes were read using an Actron basic code reader. Thanks again. James
  5. I am going to flush out my brake fluid and have decided on the Ate blue. However, I have no idea how much (how many liters?) of the brake fluid I need to buy. 98 Boxster. Thanks. James
  6. On the subject of shifter cables, 986Jim, would 1st and 2nd gear "unclear" shift gates be due to need for cable adjustment? From my 5 speed, there are only 2 cables. Could it be that one of the attachments is off spec? I don't think the cables can be adjusted, but I'm not sure. I've only heard that the stick shift can be aligned (and that's it's almost never out of alignment). Is the metal arm under the car (connecting transmission to one of the 2 shifting cables) what people refer to as the shift linkage? How often does that metal arm get bent or otherwise out of spec? Thanks. James
  7. I definitely have wanted to blame my own shifting technique. But I really don't know if it's all my fault. You see, shifting from 1-2 is just very strange. I can go from a stop in 1st gear until say 20 mph, then want to shift into 2nd with the clutch all the way down and no gas, and I'll have to wait until the tach drops down to idling basically before 2nd engages w/o difficulty. Please assess my shifting technique. How is one supposed to do the 1-2 shift smoothly. I really want to believe nothing is wrong with my transmission and that it's all me. James
  8. So, I'm beginning to feel that my transmission is not completely normal. I have a 98 Boxster with the 5 speed manual. Clutch seems completely fine, it's just the shifting that's worrisome. With the clutch depressed at a stop, I cannot freely access every gear like in other cars. For example, at a stop, I can sometimes select 1st, 2nd, 5th, and R, but not 3rd or 4th. At least not with ease. And if I push the transmission into 3rd, it becomes more difficult to choose other gears. Nonetheless, driving is still OK just not as pleasureable as I want it to be. I start in 1st gear, but it never slips in like silk. Shifting into 2nd is not completely smooth either, but it'll still go in w/o force. Twice, when going down an incline with the car in 1st gear at very very slow speeds, the car has even popped out of gear. Every gear is selectable/usable, the shifting is just not smooth. No grinding of the gears or other noise from the gearbox. The car has very low miles (only about 10k) and has not been abused in any way. So, I'm less inclined to think it's an internal transmission thing, at least I hope not. The symptoms have not worsened. Everything is connected under the shift boot in the cockpit. Everything is stock, no short shift kits. Is there any kind of adjustment that could be off, maybe at the cable joining the transmission itself? Or would a transmission fluid change be helpful? Any advice is appreciated. James
  9. Hey All, So, I cleaned the carbon out of the throttle body and the IACV as suggested in another Renntech post that I posted this situation in (How hard to change engine temp sensor?). There really wasn't very much carbon. A thin film on portions of the IACV and a ring in the throttle body around the butterfly valve in the closed throttle position. I also pushed the little metal "swing-door" around in the IACV and it moved freely under pressure, but wanted to swing back in place to its original resting position when I let go of it. So, from what I can tell, it appears my IACV is functioning and not corroded. However, I still have the original problem of the engine shuddering sometimes at idle. I really don't know what it could be. Are there any other suggestions? Everything in the intake/throttle body/IACV appears quite spotless, there is no check engine light, but the engine doesn't idle like it should! Truman at the PPBB board suggested a DME software update that corrects this problem and also makes the speedometer more accurate, but my dealer in Houston totally denies that such a update has ever been made available. I have posted Truman's post to me below. Please help, can anyone advise me? James More on the Software update (from archives) The DME software update was the subject of a great deal of discussion in 1999, and dealt with exactly the problem you describe. The update also improved the speedometer accuracy. You might want to check your speedometer reading when you are in top gear at excatly 3000 RPM. An unmodified DME will show 75 - 76 mph. With the update, it will show 73 - 74 mph. Here is some excellent input from Bob C., October 1999: "My service guy told me all he did was execute "Special Functions" or "Special Options" from the PST2. That took care of everything. On my receipt, it's specifically written that the fix to the speedometer was accomplished with the same fix as the one for the idle." More from Bob C.: "The DME update is a software update for the Boxster's computer(s). Like the majority of cars today, most systems in the Boxster are controlled by computer. Each dealer service department has a computer called a PST2 (Porsche System Tester 2 ...I believe it's a glorified laptop computer) that can plug straight into the Boxster's on-board computer. The PST2 can be used either to diagnose problems or to download software updates. As I understand it, Porsche occasionally releases software updates on CD. My service guy told me that he hooked up the PST2, executed "Special Functions" or "Special Options" or something like that, and then it was done. IMHO, other dealers can deny it or ignore it or call it something different than "DME update" or whatever makes them happy. All I know is that my spedometer is now more accurate by 2.5mph at 70mph, my idle is now steady with the AC on, and my transition from clutch to gas from a stop is now silky smooth." I would check for the DME software update as a first step. Truman
  10. I will clean out the throttle body and IACV this weekend, but have a few questions. 1) Are tightening torques for the screws important? 2) Is it safe to spray carb cleaner inside the IACV? 3) Is it safe to push around the flap inside the IACV? I'm worried that the flap or whatever that the IACV contains is not meant to be pushed around. Also, is cleaning the IACV the only maintenance for it or should I lubricate it too? I just don't know what to expect with the IACV, thanks. James
  11. Reefish, I haven't replaced the spark plugs recently, so I hope it isn't that. Thanks for the suggestion. James
  12. Hi all, So, blackboxster and I appear to have different problems, so I decided to start a new thread concerning my car. My 98 2.5 non egas 5 speed under 10k miles Boxster seems to be having a idle problem on every warm start and frequently cold starts IF the outside temperature is below 60-65 F. What's weird (and good) I suppose, is that the engine kinda returns to normal after I've driven it for a few minutes. There also is no Check Engine Light. This isn't a chronic engine shuddering at idle problem, but pretty short term. And when the engine shudders, it is for like a second before the DME I think recovers it. It is however, really disconcerting because the engine shudder causes the whole car to vibrate. There are 3 distinct categories that this engine shuddering can happen on my car. And each time before I start, I always wait for the 5 second countdown and before going anywhere, let the engine hunt for a stable idle. 1) Engine Cold, Outside Temperature also Cool <60-65 F. In starting, the tach shoots up to like 2000-3000, but then drops real low, causing the associated shuddering/vibration that is VERY noticeable. Then it overshoots the normal 900 or so idle by just a little before settling into normal idle. 2) Engine Warm can be off for like 2 minutes or 2 hours (but still kinda warm). Return to car to start it, starts fine unlike ex #1 and wait for it to idle stabley. Shuddering occurs later though. Shift into first gear, and start pulling into Houston's traffic. At stop-and-go (this is terrible stop and go, can't even get off the clutch completely in the few feet you can move forward), the engine shudders EACH time the engine is back into neutral to idle with the car stopped. However, this goes away once we finally get on our way with a green light and I can stay in 1st or 2nd gear for some duration. Then there's no more shuddering for the rest of the trip (the coolant doesn't even have to be completely up to temp yet either). 3) Same engine warm scenario BUT with no traffic and no upcoming stops, if I can allow the engine to run for a short while in 1st or 2nd gear at any speed, no shuddering. Loren recommended looking for carbon build up on the throttle body and cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve attached to it. And while I was looking at PCA's tech Q&A section, Scott Slausen suggests in other posts concerning idle issues to look also for any intake leaks or a bad MAF. Questions: Idle Air Control Valve/ Throttle Body and Butterfly What kind of carb (carbon/carburator?) cleaner do you guys recommend? Is the Idle Air Control Valve also cleaned with the lint free towel and carb cleaner or is it a flap of sorts that I just push to ensure it's moving well? Is it reasonable for carbon to have built up on such a low mileage but older car? Intake Leaks Can anyone tell me what components are part of the intake tubes, so I can also check them for leaks? I am also really baffled at the theory of this. I'm trying to understand why this idle issue is occuring but not all the time?!? How is it that a warm idle problem can resolve itself after driving for just a while? Am I helping calibrate my engine or some sensors by being able to run the warm engine for a little bit? Please assist me with this. I'm worried everytime the engine shudders the whole car. James
  13. Loren, is this carbon build up/ idle control valve part common causes of problems on the Boxster? Also, how does one go about fixing these two potential problem causers? Should I just remove the throttle body and blow compressed air on it? How about the idle control valve? Where is it located? Can I clean it or replace it? Thank you for the tip Loren. James
  14. Hmmm blackboxster, I was thinking that our problem was the same, but if you only experience this at cold start up and I only get it after the car has already been driven for a while, we may not be searching for the same culprit. Sorry I wasn't of any help. James
  15. My 98 Boxster 5 speed is having similar symptoms, except I do not need to touch the throttle when the rpms drop below 1000 because my engine recovers quickly after it starts shaking after start up. It almost seems like the engine is seeing how slow it can go before dying! Also, blackboxster, my engine only does this after it has already been started up and driven recently. So, it doesn't do this when the car is cold, but if I run errands and have the car off for a few minutes and then return to drive it, it does what your car is doing. I don't know if it makes a difference, but on your car, is this problem happening when cold or warm, like mine? Another factor could be outside temperature. I've noticed in my car, that there's a higher probability for this when the temperature is colder outside (say below 75 F as opposed to the normal 90+ in Houston). While I obviously don't know what is really wrong, I suspect it may be MAF (mass air flow) sensor related. Maybe someone can advise us on this. James
  16. Tool Pants, Thank you very much, your expertise with our cars has once again helped me. Your picture of the cell phone connector was my mystery one. I have velcroed it out of the way and wow, I'm surprised a 98 Porsche came prewired for phone. Fancy. Thanks again. James
  17. Thanks to Rockitman for posting his instructions with pictures. I have nearly completed my console delete modification on my 98 Boxster. However, while removing the front mounting bracket in the attached picture, the thin bundle of wires (also indicated in one of Rockitman's pictures attached here) came loose. Does anyone know what purpose those wires might serve? I can't see anywhere where they might connect. And if they're for some option I don't have, I'm concerned about rattles as those wires and the plug they join at is just flopping around loose under my console delete kit. Where is this small bundle of wires supposed to go? Please help, I'm almost done with this mod!
  18. I have a 98 Boxster with a factory hardtop, SMK. A hardtop on the Boxster has, in my opinion, some pros outweighed by many cons. For example, the sound deadening is a significant difference. There is far less maintenance- soft top is higher maintenance. However, on a Boxster, much of the fun of the car comes when its top is down. Driving top up/down is like driving two different cars, especially when the hardtop is attached vs. just softop being closed. My hardtop is also well attached. For example, the only squeaks from my car occur with the hardtop on or off. Nevertheless, I will say this. The Boxster really as not as fun as a coupe as it is a convertible and that is the major difference. If you really want a closed roof sports car, I would look elsewhere. Good luck SMK. James
  19. I found a fix on PPBB! I'm not sure how to attach the link, so I'm gonna copy/paste. "Gene, I had a very annoying clicking / ticking noise when the top was up that came from the right rear of the top mechanism. It sounded like it was coming from about ear level. I finally found there was a piece of clear tape worn through to the metal it covered on a small cable guide. I covered the guide up with a new piece of 3/4 x 1 inch of packing tape and the noise went away for good (well almost for good, I have to replace the tape every three or four months)! HereÆs how to check yours: Open the top almost fully so that there is about 12ö between the edge of the top and body of the car. Look into the cavity where the top goes, about 6 inches from the end of the door. You will see a red cap on part of the top mechanism. Now look a few inches further to the rear and you will see a cable that terminates on a connector with a star washer and torex screw. Note that the cable is bare for about an inch and then is covered with a black insulator. Right where the bare cable ends you will see a 1ö wide thin metal plate covered with plastic tape that acts as a guide/clamp for the cable. Check to see if the piece of clear plastic tape is worn through to the metal. If it is, just cover it with a new piece of tape and youÆre in business. (Check the other side and you should see the same thing.) E-mail me if this is not clear. Bill" Hopefully this will help anyone else whose car has the same problem. Such a simple fix... and it works! James
  20. I have lately become bothered by a repetitive, almost rhythmic clicking/ticking noise from the area over the passenger side's shoulder. It's not a rattle or a buzzing, but a click- click- click. Not loud but definitely noticeable. The car's top has been up since it is dirty, but I moved the top up and down- no problem. Ticking continues with the passenger window in any position, doors locked or unlocked, and so far, only when the vehicle is in motion and not always at that. I have moved the passenger seat in different locations, so I don't think it's the passenger seat. It sounds like it's coming from over the passenger's shoulder, but the top's hoops seem taut and the rollhoop windblockers are securely in place. I'm not sure how to proceed... I have also examined the trim behind the seats and around the roll bar. Passenger side is a close match to driver's side, but the clicking noise is only from the passenger side. As you can tell, it's driving me nuts. Please help. How'd you get rid of the click-click-click-click... James
  21. For those with the horn problem, I wanted to steer you towards the black hi temp silicone repair. I tried going to Lowe's, Home Depot, and even Ace for the o-ring solution suggested by jporter, but could not find an o-ring #38 or nylon washers of the right spec. Very frustrating. When I took off the airbag, I found that my rubber bushings were all still in place! This intrigued me because everyone else's had tears or even torn all the way through. Nevertheless, the silicone fix has solved my horn problem, and I conclude that my rubber bushings, though still intact, had become exceptionally flimsy, and unable to offset the airbag's weight. Good luck to others with this problem. James
  22. I am looking for the part number for a nonsmoker tray for a 98 boxster. The interior is black but not the A03 color code. I had ordered and returned that part from Sunset as it was the matte black finish. In my car, the seats/carpeting are gray, but the console and shift knob are black, just not matte black. Does anyone know what the correct part number for a nonsmoker tray in this older boxster black interior? Thanks. James
  23. djantlive, Well, the Discount Tire I went to doesn't do alignment, but the technician that examined my car was absolutely confident my problem lay in the tires. I asked about alignment and when he examined each tire, he felt that alignment was fine. Though if my car's problem persists, alignment will be the next course of action. Thank you for your shop recommendation. James
  24. Thanks to everyone who have provided suggestions! Well, I ordered the tires and they'll be installed this Friday afternoon from Discount Tire. I got the Michelin Pilot Sport N rated tires with the Discount Tire's standard warranty and gsp 9700 balancing with road force for around 870 dollars drive out. Their price was extremely competitive with Costco (no road force balancing). The next expense will be alignment if the problem does not improve. I figure the car's age does logically warrant new tires. Can anyone recommend a chain that does alignment well or any specific shop in Houston? Thanks again. James
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