GregD

It sounds like your car has the GT3 console delete. Find someone who has done the GT3 console delete and see if they still have their old parts, or find someone who wants to swap parts with you. If you search for console delete, the instructions should go through all the steps of what to take out and what to install. See the pictures in this topic to find out if that's what you have

Thanks Geoff - but I don't think my car has ever had the centre console. As far as I know it was a factory option (code M581), and this code doesn't appear on the sticker under the bonnet on my car.

Can anyone shed any light on whether the fixings for the console are already there under the carpet of the transmission tunnel?

Greg

Thanks for the info DC.

At the moment, I have nothing but carpet and a big empty space under the dash, so I'll need all of the parts on the diagram.

If anyone can tell me how this attaches to the floor (and if it is attached to the underside of the dash, too), that would be great.

Greg

Hi,

My '99 Boxster does not have the shelf unit under the dash in front of the gear lever, and I'd like to add this unit to my car to get some extra storage space.

Has anyone had any experience of doing this? I've searched already and found loads of posts about deleting the console, but none about adding....

On the console delete posts, it looks like the console bolts to the floor via a steel bracket in front of the gear lever. Would the holes these bolts go into be there already on my car, under the carpet? Would I need to cut a piece of carpet out to fit the console?

Does the console physically attach to the underside of the dash, too?

Thanks

Greg

Hey all,

I have just installed a new rear center console, which i am very :D with! However i can't work out how to get the lid off the lockable oddments box right at the back. The instructions say something about a hinge replacement kit for '99 and '00 models (mine is a MY00), which is all well and good but that doesn't have anything to do with the lid, does it??? Any help would be most appreciated!

Thanks

Martin

If you open the lid, you'll see about 8 or so torx head screws on the inside of the lid. Remove these, then slide the top (armrest) part of the lid (backwards or forwards - can't 100% remember) and it should come away from the lid frame.

This will expose the metal hinge pin which you'll need to tap out to one side with a pin punch. Once removed, this should leave the lid free to come off.

The hinge repair kit is needed if the plastic brackets on the centre console (into which the hinge pin fits) have cracked - it's a really poor design as the centre console plastic is quite brittle so will crack if you open the lid with too much rearward force.

The kit itself is really easy to install and leaves you with a strong metal hinge in place of the plastic one - you'll need a pop riveter and a few basic tools, and it'll take about a half hour. There's more info in one of the TSBs on this site - which takes you through the process step by step....

Good luck!

Greg

Sorry folks, I'm being a muppet.

It's a case of RTFM: Page 80 says "close windows with the rocker switch".

Ok - plugged in my shiny new reader and it's come up with a single code - P0306 - Cylinder 6 misfire.

I guess that could mean it's as simple as a dodgy spark plug or coil, but does anyone have any experience of other stuff that can trigger this sort of code?

Also please can someone tell me which cylinder is no. 6?

Thanks

Greg

Sorry - it's a 1999 2.5 with a manual gearbox (not sure if the last bit is relevant for any microswitches etc..)

Hi,

I've noticed that when lowering or raising the convertible top, the windows drop a couple of inches (as they should), but then don't automatically re-close once the top has finished moving.

I need to "manually" press the electric window buttons to get them to close.

I'm pretty sure they should close automatically (they do on my friend's 996 cab).

Anyone know what could be causing the problem?

Cheers

Greg

I'm gonna presume

you know that CELs are backed up with diagnostic codes and that the first thing to do is to get access to a code reader and see what the codes tell you.

http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/acheckenginelight(cel)

That will lead you to more information and then an approach can be suggested.

Good luck.

Thanks for the advice guys. Looks like I need to get hold of an OBDII reader. I'll post back when I've got some codes.

Greg

Hi,

Took my Boxster out of the garage for a drive this morning, after about 4 weeks of not moving it.

The car fired first time and seemed to run as normal for the first 6 or 7 miles, by which time it was fully warmed up.

Then suddenly, when accelerating from 30 mph out of a village at low-2000s rpm, the car was very hesitant and didn't want to gain rpm. It had a kind of stutter / misfire and after a couple of hundred yards the check engine light flashed on and off about 3 times then stayed on permanently.

I pulled over and the engine was sounding a little lumpy at idle, as well as smelling like it was running rich. I could get the engine to hold the revs constant at any speed above idle and the car sounded fine, but trying gain rpm resulted in the same misfiring behaviour. Turning the engine off and turning back on again had no effect on the condition and the CEL remained on.

A friend who had been driving behind me all the way said there had been no smoke or other tell tale signs from the exhaust.

I turned round and headed home, and the problem gradually subsided to the extent that by the time I was back on the driveway the car was running as normal, but the CEL remained on.

The car is a '99 2.5 manual with 86k. I've only owned it for about 3,500 miles, and although the car has been serviced at independents I'm not sure how well it has been maintained (last OPC stamp was at 48k).

I'm not really sure where to start with this - Can anyone help me?

Cheers,

Greg

Ok thanks all. I'll have to do some investigating next free weekend but it doesn't sound too serious....

Hi,

My front brake discs were pretty much worn out, although the pads were not completely worn and the brake wear indicator on the dash was not showing.

So, at the weekend I replaced the discs as well as the front brake pads, wear sensors and fluid.

Since then the brake pad wear indicator light on the dash has been permanently on, although clearly the pads are brand new (and the ones on the back are approx 50% worn so should not trigger any warning).

Is it necessary to perform some sort of reset on the wear indicator when replacing the pads, or is this as straightforward as a dodgy connection on one of the new wear sensors?

Thanks

Greg

Hi,

The climate control on my 1999 986 has never worked in the 6 months I've owned it (the perils of buying a car when it's 3C outside I suppose).

Prompted by another post I had a look around in the bumper air intakes and found (see attached photo) that the driver's side (on my RHD car) condenser is damaged at the lower outside corner and looks as though it's been leaking, presumably through corrosion caused by leaves collecting there over the years.

Obviously I'm looking to sort this in the most cost effective way possible, so can anyone tell me if replacing the condenser is a straightforward DIY job? Looking at the schematic in the parts catalogue, it just seems to attach to the refrigerant circuit with a couple of screws with o-rings to seal.

I've no idea how long this problem has existed and understand that if the leak has been there for a while, the desiccator might need replacing as well. Is this true and if so is this also possible to DIY? Although I can see it on the schematic, I have no idea where the unit actually is - is it near the battery compartment?

If I can get all this done myself then I guess all that would be required would be to get an AC specialist to re-gas the system?

Thanks

Greg

Hi, I'm having a similar problem at the moment. I've located the switch and twisted it to remove it, but how to I take it out to clean it? Is there a clip or does it just pull apart from the wires? Its seems pretty solid and theres so little room I just dont want to completly mess it up and be forced to go to a dealer

Once rotated 90 degrees, the switch (attached to the socket and wires) should come clean out of the metal bracket in front of the pedals.

Once you have it out, you should be able to separate the switch from the socket with wires - there are 2 tabs either side of the socket (see photo - these are on the left and right of the socket as you see it).

To clean the inside of the switch, you just need to use a small screwdriver to pry apart the brown and black plastic parts of the switch (or red and black if it's the clutch switch). Be careful as the switch contains a loose spring which is liable to fall out at this point.

Greg

hi got a 1998 996 C2 and recently changing rears tires from contis to Good Year F1s and handling all of a sudden terrible and dangerous! tried adjusting pressures but appears leat bad at recommended 36 psi. the car steers round bends and corners better than it ever has but in a straight line at 30mph towards just wanders all over the road just as if it's getting blown across the road, i can be holding the wheel dead straight and i'll just move across the road! **** scary! can't think what is wrong so any help would be great..... as i said i've lower pressures to 32 up to 36 but no change. COuld it just be the change of tires? i would have thought alignment but it was perfect before the new tires, thanks

Hi,

You might want to check that your tyres have been fitted the correct way round - Eagle F1s are available as both directional and asymmetric versions - both of which need to be fitted correctly to ensure they perform properly.

Check the sidewall of the tyres for markings indicating either the direction of rotation or the which is the inside/outside edge. This should tell you if they're fitted correctly.

Greg

Hi,

My '99 2.5 has the factory fitted cruise option - but it doesn't work!

When I tap the button on the end of the stalk the cruise indicator light comes on in the cluster but I can't actually set any speed with the stalk.

Looking at the image posted by Tool Pants earlier in this thread, I'm wondering if the control unit attached to the pedal is faulty.

I also wondered if the fuse could be the culprit but looking at the fusebox diagram the cruise chares a fuse with the brake lights and these are working OK.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks

Greg

The door lock cylinder mechanical extension is not engaged in the door lock. You forgot to test the door lock manually after reinstalling the lock with the new bow den cable. I hope that you can still open the door with the remote in one or other way. If not call your dealer.

Success.

Thanks RFM. Hopefully it doesn't sound like I've caused any permanent damage.

Does anyone have any photos of the lock mechanism so I can see what it should look like when properly assembled?

Hi,

I replaced the Bowden cable (linking the interior door handle to the door lock) on the driver's door of my '99 986 2.5 last weekend (using some very helpful instructions at http://boxster.wikia.com/wiki/Interior#Doo...owden_Cable.29).

When I came to drive the car this weekend, the remote locking/unlocking had powered down because it had been more than 5 days since I last used the car, so I went to unlock the door "physically" with the key in the lock, but this did not work.

The key freely turns 90 degrees either way, and will spring back to the centre position, but the car won't unlock.

In the end I had to use the emergency access to the front compartment and disconnect the battery. After I reconnected it the remote unlock worked again (but not before I deafened myself after about 90 seconds of the alarm siren blaring!)

I think in replacing the bowden cable I may have dislodged/damaged some part of the lock mechanism. Before I strip down the door (again) to have a look, has anyone else had this problem, and if so, how did you solve it?

Thanks

Greg