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There is a creak or a squeek in my drivers side door and it is very audiable cause it is by my left ear. When ever the car is going over uneven payvment or a bump or just general driving it creaks. This creak seems to be timed with when the body flexes. I have isolated the door as the problem because when I open the door it stops and I have adjusted the striker in all directions to no avail. I need help it is driving me batty. this past weekend I took it to New orleans, had the creak in the left ear and the fiance yappin in the other for 300 miles. what a dissaster! Thanks in advance :lightbulb:
I capped the 996 107 146 00 vent line at the throttle body and ran some vinyly hose from the separator down to vent to atmosphere I did this to by pass the emissions requirement of having the fumes from the separator burn through the engine because the separator is gone and it is sucking up oil from the separator because of the negative pressure in the plenum. And since then no blue smoke on startup and no P1128 P1130 codes ran for about 30 mins. But I will keep an eye on it If I run into problems I will post. That other hose is a another vent hose for emmissions leading to the oil breather Mickey found me that info Thanx :cheers:
There are two tubes (one rubber and one plastic) that split off the connector on the plenum after the throttle body I Broke the plastic one 996 107 146 00 one which I think leads to the oil separator. However I am interested to know what the thin rubber tube below it (lower arrow) is and where it is leading and Part number ?I found oil in my throttle body and plenum and am trying to isolate where it came from I have temporarily capped the broken tube with some plastic and rubber band ( not driving car ) I ran the car like this and it ran fine. thanx for the help thus far mickey Thank you
I recently got a deal on a black hardtop for my 986. I got the hardware from sunset and I installed it over the weekend. It looks great however I have 2 questions. 1. On un even pavement or turns the top is giving an annoying creaky sound. I'm sure this is to be expected however it is really frequent and annoying. Im not sure if it is creaking due to sheet metal or if it is from the rubber weather stripping on the sealing surface. 2. To ensure proper care of the weather stripping what kind of weather stripping protectant should I use. I have heard some stories of crappy products that end up reducing the life of the rubber rather than extending it. Could someone please recommend a product for the rubber weather stripping. If there is any other insight into the creaking Thank you in advance!
Pull the codes and list them all definitively. there is no point in speculating and going after the problem without a full list. Is the secondary injection for both banks or just one?P0410 Secondary Air Injection System - Signal Implausible (Cylinders 1 - 3) If you list all teh codes you would hava better idea. Did you buy from a dealer? Hopefully Some of the GURU's will help you with what the causes may be for your symptoms
well sounds like you lucked out keep an eye on it and see what happpens. But it definately would not hurt to do it but take it for a full drive and take it thru the RPM range just to see if that fault registers again. Then clean or replace one item at a time with a CEL clear and driving in between to isolate teh problem. I would do the TB first because the MAF is pricey!
Yeah certain things do sound similar, however I am wondering why only the one bank of cylinders was registering the fault. And also your shudder may be the clutch. My judder was more so in the throttle response it felt like a choppy power delivery. BTW :welcome: to the site.
Well as discussed earlier I had both 1128 & 1130 which as Loren pointed out is lean air fuel mixture in both cylinder banks. I figured since it was in both banks it would be one problem before the system split to both banks. I checked extensively for air leaks using carb spray and I also checked all the separator breather hoses etc. Then I went after the MAF I tried cleaning it and reset the CEL but it was back after a while. So I got a new MAF. I took out 986 606 125 00 which was discontinued and put the new MAF for all e gas cars 986 606 125 01 This got rid of the CEL but gave me a loping idle. I thought that maybe it was not the MAF at all. But when I put the Old one back in the car would run crappy with less power and CEL. with the new one it ran great more power but loping/ hunting idle. So I thought that perhaps my ECU needed a software patch but when I ran the VIN I found out that e gas cars did not need the software patch. So I started going after just the loping Idle I went after the IACV valve in the Throttle body and found something else my Throttle Body was gummed up pretty bad so at Idle the car was huffing and puffing to breath with the new MAF where with the Old MAF it had adapted overtime with power loss. So After I cleaned that up I was good to Go. So in short. I had 2 problems. A faulty MAF and a gummed up throttle body which was giving me. - P1128 P1130 ( MAF in my case ) - Less power and judder at take off ( MAF & Throttle body) - Hunting / loping Idle ( exclusively Throttle body) Hope this helps :lightbulb: P.S i tried attaching the pdf in the PM function it would not fly, check your yahoo account you have mail!
If you cannot find it on the site I have a PDF that I got from TP. I sent you a PM with the PDF attached I had the same code triggered and I went through quite a few possibilities. In the end the problem was a combination of 2 isolated problems that was super positioning Good luck
If your CEL is constantly on you wont know if another fault has poped in the DME. If you have an OBDII scanner it may be worth while to read your codes regularly to ensure there isnt any extra unwanted guests in there. I loath the CEL