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Max405

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Posts posted by Max405

  1. Found another post that gives more detail on the OEM brand from Autozone.

    Link click here

    I'd like to thank all the great folks here who helped me with this.

    I ended up calling another AutoZone and they had the 4 pc set in stock so I went and bought them. The bits are more substantial than I thought. They require a 1/2" chuck or Socket. They did the job perfectly!

    thanks for everything guys.

    Joe D.

  2. FWIW, I just bought this set of triple square sockets from Amazon:

    http://www.amazon.com/Vim-Products-VIMXZN4...e/dp/B0019COW5W

    Made in Taiwan, but claims be be S2 steel...seems to be decent quality and worked perfectly for removing the rear seats.

    Thanks for that. I looked down the list and found a 4 piece set that has the majority of what I think I will need.

    THANKS!!

    Joe D.

  3. Autozone sells a three bit set 10mm, 12mm and 14mm by OEM.

    I went my local Autozone here in NJ. When I asked them if they had any triple star bits, they looked at me like I had 3 heads and then told me to look in Eisle 4. When I turned the corner and looked up Eisle 4, there were 1,000's of bits hanging. I was in my glories.. 15 minutes later I left empty handed because they didnt have a single triple star bit.

    Today I called my local NAPA. I asked them if they had Triple Square bits. There was silence on the other end. Then I said they look like torx bits with double the amount of points. Then the guy said, Ooooh serrated bits, we got them". I will visit the store later with cautious optimism...

    JD

  4. 2010 997 2 C4S Cab

    Car is being delived later this week. I traded a '06 997 S Cab Midnight Blue/Tan Sport Exhaust.

    http://dealerrevs.com/gallery/photo.php?id=19036899

    It looks just like this picture and I'll post some pics next week. Very excited but I live in Boston so it won't see any action for a few weeks.

    This is it:

    Cream White

    Cocco top

    Cocco leather

    Makassar Wood

    PDK

    Sport Chrno

    Sport Exhaust

    Turbo Wheels

    and a few other things

    Don't know if you've seen the new sport exhaust tips but very nice high tech look.

    You spec'd your new car almost exactly as I would have if I was lucky enough to get a new one.

    I love the Makassar wood on Cocoa. It looks so rich. Did you get the Makassar center console?

    In my case, going from a Midnight Blue to a Meteor Grey (in my case) I was a little dissapointed at 1st. I loved the Dark Blue. However after owning my Meteor Grey 911 for a couple of months, I must admit, I am not as critical with a little nick here and chip there. I just cant see them as easily as I did with the Dark Blue. Now I honestly think I like the new color even more. Switching to a White will have an even greater affect.

    Consider yourself very lucky. Enjoy it!

    Joe D.

  5. Good catch. You will need an impact driver to tighten it properly. It's suppose to be super f'n tight. It's also a safety hazard if they aren't tight enough, plus if it slides again if you hit a hard enough bump the plate will slide and scratch your door jam.

    Carlos,

    Once again, I really appreciate you helping me. Just an FYI.. The T40 bit is not the correct bit. Its really a triple square and I dont have them. I've yet to find one in my area. I dont know what the triple square equivalent is to the t40, so I cant buy it online. Also, the torx bit that fits the latch mechanism on door is t30. That is a triple square as well. So both bolts were tightened with the wrong bit. I was able to crank it down good though.

    Thanks, Joe D

  6. Just an FYI on my DIY...

    I tried fixing this with a regular ratchet wrench and a t40 bit. It turns out the bolts were VERY loose. Not only the latch bar, but also the 2 bolts that hold the latch to the door. I moved them to the perfect spot, snugged them up and now the doors are perfectly aligned and I even hear less rattling when I hit big bumps.

    I think someone fell asleep on the assembly line.

    My baby is perfect now!

    Joe D.

  7. Its easy, youll need a some masking tape, hammer and manual impact driver with a bit that fits the 2 screws that hold the latch bar to the body, loosen them alittle, just enough to slide it inward to the vehicle the exact distance in question depending on your specific needs.

    place masking tape near 3 edges of the latch bar on the body of the car. i recommend tape on both top and bottom and the last on the outside facing edge of the latch bar.

    To use an Impact driver: place bit in the impact driver and then place the impact driver on the screw that holds the latch bar and twist the impact wrench counter clockwise 1/4 turn while on the screw, hold that tension and slam the back of the impact driver with a heavy hammer, reset your hand on the impact driver, twist counter clockwise again and hit it again until the screws move, and then twist them out 2-3 turns or enough to slide the latch bar around but snug enough to hold the latch in place while your not holding it.

    once you've got it where you want it, first tighten screws manually then place the impact driver on the latch bar screws, twist Clockwise now and hit the back of the impact driver with the hammer to tighten it, usually 2-3 hard slams does the job.

    Thanks for the response. I actually thought it would be easier than that. Considering I wouldnt know the difference between an impact driver and a TV remote, I'll probably leave this to an expert.

    I really appreciate the time you spent trying to help me.

    Thanks, Joe D

  8. If your doors are on the side where the doorlock are a little outwards in comparison to the chassis (B-pillar), then - believe it or not - that's how it must be, because otherwise you have wind noise at high speeds.

    It's not a bug, it's a feature.

    Cheers.

    Aha! Just the answer I was praying for. I should have known it was nothing. That puts my mind at ease.

    Thanks! Joe D.

    I went to a local Porsche dealership and looked at the new 911's. My doors are out further than the new one's are (when they are closed). So they will need adjustment. One tell-tale sign to me was the rubber molding along the beltline (by the bottom of the window) is not lining up with the molding (around the stationary rear seat window) before the B-pillar. It sticks out 1/8" farther than the molding before the b pillar.

    That said, does anyone have a good method for adjusting the door lock depth? I want the door to close better and set a little deeper into the opening so it lines up properly.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks, Joe D.

  9. I hope I understood your explanations correct.

    If your doors are on the side where the doorlock are a little outwards in comparison to the chassis (B-pillar), then - believe it or not - that's how it must be, because otherwise you have wind noise at high speeds.

    It's not a bug, it's a feature.

    Cheers.

    Aha! Just the answer I was praying for. I should have known it was nothing. That puts my mind at ease.

    Thanks! Joe D.

  10. Hi,

    I've taken a day or so to search for this all over and found nothing that helps.

    Can anyone sugggest a way to adjust the door stops on my 2007 C2 Coupe? The outside door panels on both driver and passenger sides are not perfectly flush when I close the doors. They are only off 1/16th of an inch or so. I dont have any air or water leaks. Its not a big deal but its been bothering me as of late. Its just not perfect like the rest of the car. I called the dealer and they told me to bring it in but I'd rather not.

    Anyone know how to adjust this?

    I'd appreciate it.

    Thanks, Joe D

  11. Max,

    Sweet set up. I think you've convinced me to go with the W205/B200 combo, looks pretty killer and available for under $1,200. Thanks for sharing!

    I am so glad to help. Its a nice setup. I cannot overemphasize enough the difference the 6x9's made in the back. Monday night I did some spirited (to put it lightly) driving with the top down and the bass stays in the car and sounds amazing. Bruce Springsteen's "Human Touch" sounds unreal.

    One more thing, The W505 is coming out in April. I already bought the 1st one due in, so I'll be sure to let you all know how that works out.

    Thanks, Joe D.

    *****UPDATE*****

    The Alpine IVA- W505 head unit was installed yesterday. I've had a month or so to live with the existing sound system and I decided that while the car was in, I'd have the system revamped a bit. The additions/replacements were as follows;

    IVA 505 replaced the IVA 205.

    The 4x150 Alpine power amp replaced the 2x150

    I added the imprint processor

    I added the Bill Jeuhle subwoofer enclosure with an 8" JL Audio sub.

    All work was done as professionally as possible by Anthony @ Zippo's car stereo in South Plainfield NJ.

    First let me say, the W505 is light years better then the W205. The Ipod controls are unbelievable. I believe the installer ran the USB connection to the Ipod. The ipod control is so smooth, it almost feels like its not a separate unit. It feels like its part of the 505. The Album art displays on the screen nicely. The touch screen is better than the 205's in the sense that it reacts quicker and more positively to the touch. The bluetooth connects to my phone without a glitch and using it is a real treat. Moving from screen to screen is flawless. The whole system has a much more "professional" feel to it. The installer tuned the system with the imprint unit. The processor has made the stereo sound as if its not installed in the inside of a little Porsche anymore. The soundstage is big and the music is well centered, fuller and even more accurate than before. Its unbelieveable. Alpine has listened to the consumer and put together a top-notch system. It even has 4 different screen colors to match the interior of most cars. (Amber, Magenta, Blue and Green).

    The subwoofer enclosure is JUST what the car needed. The molded plastic box comes barebones from Bill Juehle (billjehle.com). My installer carpeted the outside and sprayed the grill black. He fitted the box into the front passenger footwell and bolted it down. He installed a JLAudio 8" sub. It sounds WAY bigger than any 8" I've ever heard. Probably because the interior is so small. Trust me, you dont need any more than this 8" in the Porsche. The car now has bottom end in the sound. The fullness is incredible. The accuracy of the sound is great. No distortion, buzzing or false artifacts in the sound. Just clean fullness, with crisp highs and pounding (yes, Pounding) lows.

    In order to power the sub, my Installer had to change the 2x150 amp to the Alpine 4x150. What a difference that made. The clarity and power are amazing. The gain is only at the halfway point. My installer recommended this because he felt it would provide the cleanest power obtainable, while running very cool in the process.

    A word about the installer. If you live close to South Plainfield New Jersey, Zippo's is the only choice for professional sales/service and installation. Anthony who is the manager will take care of you. He really cares about what you want and he will set himself on fire getting it done for you. Trust me, I am just a customer and have NO stake in this whatsoever. Anthony is TOP-NOTCH. He knows Porsches and he will do a good job for you.

    All I can say is, this is the best sound system I've ever heard in the best car I've ever driven. I am as happy as can be. I hope that my experiences help anyone else interested.

  12. I have a 01 996 C2 and I have installed the IPD plenum from RPM. It took about an hour to install .The install on my brothers 03 Targa was less time! If you compare the IPD unit with the stock plenum, you will be convinced that it has to help. I have seen a post where dyno runs were made with the exact same car, same day, same dyno with the stock plenum and then with the IPD plenum. The IPD plenum showed , if my memory serves me correctly, a 20 to 25 hp gain.

    Palma308

    Thanks to everyone who read my post and responded. This place is a really nice place to visit. My car is a hobby for me and this makes my hobby alot more enjoyable.

    I contacted my local Porsche shop and asked about installation. Unfortunately, they told me that a modification such as this WILL void my warranty. I read my contract and yes in fact it says that in the fine print. I bought the car with a 2 year warranty, and I am only 4 months into it.

    I will upgrade once my warranty runs out. If I am blessed, maybe to a 997S or Turbo :thumbup: . If I still have my C4 cab, I will be fortunate and try the IPD and a cold air kit of some kind.

    Once again, thanks to all who tried to help me. You folks are great!

    Sincerely, Joe D.

  13. Hi,

    I am planning on upgrading to the IPD plenum (any chance of a group buy???). I talked to a local shop here NJ and they told me along with the Plenum, upgrade the cold air intake to the Fabspeed and keep the factory airbox. They recommended replacing the Porsche airfilter with a BMC filter. Overall, this doesnt sound like a bad idea. Anyone out there have this same setup? The reason I'd consider it is I am concerned about Check engine lights and fouled MAF sensors. However. I'd like to goose up the power in my 1999 C4 Cab.

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks, Joe D.

  14. I've been doing several days of spring cleaning (leather, carpets, etc) in my garage, and unwittingly let the battery run down via open doors, etc. When I attempted to raise the top to get to the back window, the process proceeded only a few inches before the battery gave up altogether.

    So, pop the engine cover and connect a trickle charger to revive my battery. Later, disconnect the charger and start the car. All is great until I attempt to finish raising the top. I can hear the relay clicking (its quiet in my garage), but the top will move neither up nor down.

    After a few minutes of increasing panic and head scratching (did I melt a top relay or something similarly horrible?) .... I remember the pointers I've picked up here at RennTech. Did I fully close the engine cover? A quick push, a reassuring click, and my top was running again.

    Just something for you Cab drivers to file away for when it happens to you.

    Kim,

    Great post. The same thing happened to me the other night. I heard the relay clicks and something told me to check the engine cover. It was open. Funny thing is, I think it opens on its own. I think if I travel on a bumpy road the jarring opens the latch. Weird.

    Thanks, Joe D.

  15. sweet, looks like you didnt lose too much cargo area (besides the loss of a passenger seat)

    any reason you didnt go with grey carpet to match?

    The interior color is black. These particular pictures show the contrast in the colors of the carpet.

    Rotor

    Rotor,

    Thats great! My installer wanted to do the same exact thing. I got impatient because he told me it would take 2 weeks and I punk'd out. The one thing you WILL notice is you wont have to crank up the volume so high to get good bass. With my 6x9 setup, I have to crank the volume to get thumping bass. There is no "warmth" at low volumes. You wont have that problem because you built an enclosure. I love it. Good for you rotor!

    Thanks for sharing.

    Joe D.

  16. I am looking for a retail distributor of OEM interior trim (other than the dealer.) I am particularly interested in a trim piece to move my A/C controls from the upper to lower console.

    Thanks!

    RotorHead

    I realize its a dealer, but I ordered the exact trim piece through Ray Catena Porsche in NJ and it only cost $5.93. Mine hasn't come in yet, its due in Monday.

    Joe D.

    Joe,

    Thanks for the quick response. Is your trim piece for the middle or upper part of your lower console? I would like to find one for the upper side personally.

    RotorHead

    Hi,

    I dont think the upper slot will hold the AC Heat controller. Its slightly larger and there are slots in teh frame that the components slide into. I think it can only go on the bottom. My trim piece was ordered for the bottom.

    Thanks, Joe D.

    Hi Joe,

    Was wondering if you successfully moved your AC Heat controller to the bottom slot. I am thinking of doing the same to install a nav system. My question is, were the wires long enough to reach the bottom slot, and can you post the part # of the trim piece you got from Ray Catena Porsche for the lower slot. Thanks.

    I dont have the part number yet. Its been in since Monday and I wont be able to get it until Saturday. I can post it then. Or, you can call them and ask for Allan. He is top notch. Just tell him its the same one Joe D. ordered.

    Joe D.

  17. Max,

    Sweet set up. I think you've convinced me to go with the W205/B200 combo, looks pretty killer and available for under $1,200. Thanks for sharing!

    I am so glad to help. Its a nice setup. I cannot overemphasize enough the difference the 6x9's made in the back. Monday night I did some spirited (to put it lightly) driving with the top down and the bass stays in the car and sounds amazing. Bruce Springsteen's "Human Touch" sounds unreal.

    One more thing, The W505 is coming out in April. I already bought the 1st one due in, so I'll be sure to let you all know how that works out.

    Thanks, Joe D.

  18. I am looking for a retail distributor of OEM interior trim (other than the dealer.) I am particularly interested in a trim piece to move my A/C controls from the upper to lower console.

    Thanks!

    RotorHead

    I realize its a dealer, but I ordered the exact trim piece through Ray Catena Porsche in NJ and it only cost $5.93. Mine hasn't come in yet, its due in Monday.

    Joe D.

    Joe,

    Thanks for the quick response. Is your trim piece for the middle or upper part of your lower console? I would like to find one for the upper side personally.

    RotorHead

    Hi,

    I dont think the upper slot will hold the AC Heat controller. Its slightly larger and there are slots in teh frame that the components slide into. I think it can only go on the bottom. My trim piece was ordered for the bottom.

    Thanks, Joe D.

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