JamesD

Cheers Loren,

I am going to buy the Enthusiast Package then.

I hope this stuff is easy to understand and use :)

Thanks guys.

I think maybe the Enthusiast Package is the one to go for,

but the only thing I'm a bit confused with is the differences between the Enthusiast & Pro kits

on the Enthusiast Package from what I understand, is that there is a,

NO coding feature? does that mean I can't read the fault codes which is

the whole point of my need for this software?

This is what it say's on there website.

* Beginning with Durametric version 6, differences between the Enthusiast and Professional kits include:

• Number of supported cars (Enthusiast kit limited to 3 cars based on VIN, no limit on Pro kit) This bit I understand.
• Control unit Coding feature (not included in Enthusiast kit) This I don't.
• Control unit Command Console feature (not included in Enthusiast kit) Nor this.

I'l either buy from Hinkleys (the shipping is cheapest) or Durametric direct.

Does anyone have the Enthusiast kit can you read the fault codes.

Thanks.

Hi all,

So I have decided to buy a Durametric Diagnostic software but which one?

I was going to buy from the UK from Design911 but it's a bit pricy,

Then I saw one from PelicanParts in the US better value but my question is?

If I buy one from the US would it work on my RHD Irish/UK spec car?

2001 996 C4 Cab, 6sp.

DURAMETRIC PRO Fault & ECU Reader €666 from Desing911 UK

Durametric Diagnostic Tool for Porsche (1996 - present) Enthusiast Package €350 from PelicanParts US

Many thanks in advance guys.

James

Dublin.

Dam you guy's are fast

Thats the fastest response ever many thank's.

What type make/model of software should I look for to buy for reading fault codes?

Hi all

2001 996 C4 6s.p Cab. (76000 miles)

So this evening while driving my 996 (last time to drive was 3 weeks ago,yeah yeah I know she's a garage queen) and so anyway,

I got the famous Check Engine Light for the first time.

Now from what I understand this can mean a few things and the only way to know for sure is with a Fault Code Reading Software?

Which I don't have so the Question's????

1. Is it bad for the car if I drive it with a continuously solid-light CEL for a few days until I can get to the garage?

2. Is it just a coincidence that it came on when the odometer reached 76000miles?

3. I have a DesignTek sports exhaust but still there with cat's and over a year old could this be it something to do with it?

4.What the heck can it be?

Many thanks in advance.

I suspect that is used make sure the radiator fans pull air through the condenser and not around it.

Thanks guy for the fast reply, I too think it's not a major deal,

I'm just a bit lazy at the moment so when I have a bit of time I'll

sort it out. Once it's not bad for the car it's ok with me!

Although I wonder would the absent of this cover reduce the efficiency

of the condenser in keeping the car cool in city traffic?

I was washing my 996 the other day and while I was cleaning the vent with the power hose,

I notice a part came lose it's the CONDENSER COVER STRIP.

part no:996.573.711.00

My question is could this cause any problems if I was to drive without replacing it?

I know it's there for a reason but how important is it?

Any idea's much appreciated.

26 and 27

I changed mine to DesignTek Sports exhaust it gives a deep sports car sound, throaty at idle and medium speeds, don't know why but after a few thousand miles it seems to sound better more throaty more in tune and responsive? Good guy's good service, nice exhaust's.

Or I wished I looked at europipe exhaust's first, there based in Belgium and have a amazing sound deep & throaty, I've talked to the guy's and they are very informative and not pushy at all, but there not the cheapest there exhaust's look expensive just by looking at the weld's on them, very nice hand made piece's.

Check out:

www.design911.co.uk

www.europipe.be

One thing to always check with any exhaust set up is Lambda Oxygen Sensor's always make sure there installed properly

(i talking from rough experience)

Thank's Philip & Bill

Philip, I was thinking it cloud need an gear oil change but my mechanic is strongly against this?

he says whenever this is done it cause's problems? to don't change it! not until it's really needed.

I cant see why this would cause a problem? I don't know how many mile there's on the clutch,

but I know at about 55000 miles the 2nd gear synchro was changed (and a new engine)

And there's no grinding at all so I'm hoping it's the shift cable's.

Bill, I would not have even though of the engine mounts going to look into it.

And I too think a bit of grease is needed for the clutch.

So basically it sound's like the solution to my sticking gears is some KY-Jelly sweet :)

Now how do I explain this to my mechanic.....

Cheers guys

Thanks for the help I'll keep you's posted

p.s. Is that true that changing the gear oil can cause more problems?

Anybody any ideas?

Hi all,

Ahhh the joy's of 996 life, another day another problem, but I still love her.

So here's the story.

2001 996 C4 6sp Cab. RHD 75880miles on the clock.

My gears have become noticeably more difficult to change.

1st 2nd & especially more so the reverse gear.

I have to wait a moment paying attention to fully engage the clutch and try again sometimes with force for reverse to fully engage.

I've also notice a squeaking noise from the clutch when I press down, it can sometimes be heard from outside the car too?

Could it be one of the following:

1. A syncro issue?

2. Gearbox oil change?

3. Cable's realignment?

4. New gearbox? (not this one please)

What do you's think?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

As always, the expertise from you all is much appreciated, and really does help.

:renntech:

This is normal.

The rear of the hard top hang's over the body a little like a lip, enough to fit your fingers.

I think it's to allow for better water drainage? When you tighten the top with the (red handle) alan key

make sure (with a bit of force) you turn it until you hear and feel a click.

As far as I know it's not possible to adjust the height.

Oh and hard tops creek and rattle lots :rolleyes:

I'll try and post pictures of mine.

Maybe so, but it's too much coincidence I think?

I've smelt burning rubber before, but it's from the rear tyre's after a long fast run.

What are the tell-tail signs of Clutch Failure?

Had a new engine 2 years ago, and also got a new 2nd gear.

National Car Test- Horror in Ireland

So today I took my 2001 996 C4 6sp. cab. (75000’ish miles on clock)

for it’s legally obligatory every 2 year’s roadworthiness check up.

It’s like the English MOT.

And was disappointed to find out it failed, for a second time 1st because of side lamps not working (a few months ago) and now 2nd time for Front suspension wishbones/brush’s worn and Dip beam too high... But it more so, disappointed me to see him take my car for a test drive outside the test centre or more like a rally drive, he said he was just testing the suspension? yeah right.These guy’s are not even mechanics.

So as I get into my car I suddenly start to hear a squeaking noise when I depress the clutch pedal it’s even more louder from outside the car you can hear a squeaky grinding noise every time the clutch pedal is pressed?

It’s was definitely not there previous to the test.

In doing his so called “test drive” this fake mechanic damaged my car’s clutch somehow. So now I have to make a formal complaint in writing.

The advice I need form the forum is what cloud cause this type of damage?

Many thanks in advance guy’s.

(It make’s me sick that I did not speak up more at how he treated my car :angry: )

Here is a scan of the report.

Model & year of your car please.

I think somebody is taking you for a ride.

My C4 2001 cab, Hardtop has a wire with a plug connector on the end,

(which you, well yes you guessed it,) connect when you install the top.

And this powers/controls the defrost function in the glass.

Maybe the wire's where damaged when the top was once removed,

in the cars manuel they say not to forget to disconnect the plug before removing the top as to not damage the wire/plug.

Now thats what I call a fast reply,thanks Loren.

Will do, I'll check them out tonight.

And post back later.

Thanks

Hi all,

Well got back home safe from euro road trip.But on the way theses lights came on the dash!

first the Break Pad Ware, then the PMS OFF, followed by the ABS light.

Had it checked by Porsche Centre France and they said that the pad’s & fluid are all fine(only new)

and that they think it’s the (Sensor Ware Contact) that's to fault, and that it’s no danger.

Mind you I did drive 4282 mile’s (6892 km) with no problem’s with the break’s.

From Ireland all the way to Poland & back

via a few stop’s in south France, Swiss, Austria, Germany & Belgium. All in 4 weeks.

The package I used to change the Pad’s & Disc’s front & rear is:

4 x Brake Disc (SEBRO)

2 set x OEM Brake Pads (TEXTAR)

4 x Brake wear sensors

+ Brake pad dampering shims

What do you’s think the problem could be.

Thanks in advance.

on the autoban all is happy Oil, Coolant, but not the light's

I too have a new engine in my 1999 996 C4 and have experienced what appears to be high temps even after normal freeway driving in cool (65F) weather. The engine temp rises above the “180” mark with A/C on in warm (80’s) weather and the warning light starts flashing. The gage can almost gets to the next mark (what ever temp that is) in hot (90’s) weather. I also notice that the engine compartment fan consistently runs for a few minutes after shut down. The old engine never did that. In an earlier thread I was advised to clear the radiator and then if needed, replace the thermostat. I’ve cleared a few bits of debris (with the bumper still on) and viewed the back area with a bore scope; mostly clear, just a couple of leaves still stuck in the far back. I plan to take the radiator off when I have more time.

I admit to being hypersensitive as I've already had one major failure with the new engine; oil in the coolant. The oil cooler had to be replaced and the cooling system repeatedly flushed to remove the oil. It is thought the thermostat may be faulty due to residual oil contamination thus causing the flashing light. The car was at the dealer for almost two weeks while they repeatedly flushed out the oil. Also the coolant tank had to be replaced as they were not sure they could get all the oil out of it.

I’ve got a trip planned for the weekend after next and will plug in my laptop and track temps et al with Durametric software, with my wife recoding the data. That may help understand what all is going on.

\Bob

Sound familiar, I too had similiar situation.

I was going to suggest that you change your coolant tank + hose's but you've already done that? So I would maybe give the radiators a major clean out (bumper off job) aslo try replacing the thermostat. I have been using RedLine Water Wetter you can also mix this with your porsche coolant to help stop any hot spots forming in the engine. I find it wont harm the motor it's just some extra protection.

Best of luck with this, keep us informed.

C2 MY99

The Brembo pads were quite dusty. I found my wheels covered with black brake dust after driving ~100 miles.

VTX promised less dust but after I installed them they were very noisy at stops. The VTX pad does not have a vibration shim adhered to it like OEM. The VTX pad also stops better after warming up.

Textars are quiet and somewhere in between the other two mentioned on the dust. They are not too dusty like the stock Brembo 996 pads but do shed some light brown powder after ~200 miles.

Both the Textar and the VTX have provisions for wear sensors and are counter balanced (front).

My 2 cents.

D.

This topic really answers a question I had, I recently changed my 996 C4's pads & disc's, and on a long road trip I too noticed a light brown powder on my wheel's more so on the rear, I though it was from the motorway surface, but I now know!

I also notice that I have 3 warning lights on the display (psm off light, break pad ware & abs light)

I've had the car checked over the pad's are fine so it's not them I'm thinking it cloud be just a faulty contact on the wear sensor somewhere.

Anyway I think the Textar are stopping great & not too much noise.

There's two things I find I'm always looking at and that's the Tempature & Oil,

(I'm obbsessed with this since a new engine install a while back)

This tempature reading in the picture looks normal for city driving.

But I'd say once your speed reached say about 60/70 mph it should settle down to around the 180 point? (increse a bit if AC is on)

I find when doing slow movement driving of any sort (traffic) the 911's tempature is never happy.

On my 996's last major service I added to the coolant tank RedLine Water Wetter you can mix this with the porsche coolant,

it help's to eliminate hot spot's forming in the engine maybe it's just my imagination but I find it really help's to keep the motor running cool.

When I'm doing between say 60/100 mph the tempature is perfectly on 180 even a little behind the number 8 and the oil is right up at mark 5

then say at 40/50 mph the oil is at 4 mark and the tempature is still at 180. (of course this all increse's to about 190 if the AC is on)

When in slow stop/start traffic the tempature is well over 180 and oil is inbetween 1 & 2 or just above 1. (not nice to be in)

I guess the more speed the more cool fresh air is been sucked in. This and a nice clean coolant tank, clean radiators & fresh coolant + water wetter

all make the differance to keeping the tempature down.

I've never been able to find anything in writing that states that Water Wetter is safe to use with Porsche extended coolant. Water Wetter ststaes it's safe for all coolants, butit came out way before the Porsche extended stuff did, so I'm not sure it has ever been tested. ASny info you have on it would be great. I used it on all my other cars, and it was a noticeable improvemnt in temperature, but both my "03 Passat and the 996 have similar coolant that I'm hesitant to "experiment" with.

Hey Perry,

I've never found anything in writing too, but I found the Water Wetter at www.porscheshop.co.uk a porsche specialist in the uk, so that was good enough for

me :) and I find it has made the differance, I've drove for about 4000k in the last 2 weeks and its has deffently proved itself.

There's two things I find I'm always looking at and that's the Tempature & Oil,

(I'm obbsessed with this since a new engine install a while back)

This tempature reading in the picture looks normal for city driving.

But I'd say once your speed reached say about 60/70 mph it should settle down to around the 180 point? (increse a bit if AC is on)

I find when doing slow movement driving of any sort (traffic) the 911's tempature is never happy.

On my 996's last major service I added to the coolant tank RedLine Water Wetter you can mix this with the porsche coolant,

it help's to eliminate hot spot's forming in the engine maybe it's just my imagination but I find it really help's to keep the motor running cool.

When I'm doing between say 60/100 mph the tempature is perfectly on 180 even a little behind the number 8 and the oil is right up at mark 5

then say at 40/50 mph the oil is at 4 mark and the tempature is still at 180. (of course this all increse's to about 190 if the AC is on)

When in slow stop/start traffic the tempature is well over 180 and oil is inbetween 1 & 2 or just above 1. (not nice to be in)

I guess the more speed the more cool fresh air is been sucked in. This and a nice clean coolant tank, clean radiators & fresh coolant + water wetter

all make the differance to keeping the tempature down.

Thanks a mill Loren,

I'll give it a shot, sounds pretty simple, (famous last words ha ha)

The roads over here in Poland are in very bad shape, pot hole's everywhere, only the big citys have smooth surfaces.

I think the best road's so far on this trip have been in France there even better than the German autoban, much wider & smoother.

After a few thousand mile's & a few bumpy roads,

I have notice that my right side Exhaust tail pipe tip is about 2 inch's OFF CENTRE & slightly lower than the left one?

I cant post any pictures yet because I'm on vacation & am using the hotel computer.

Has anyone had a similer situation and any advice on how to fix this.

Thanks

Hey b_creative3

I recently got new pad's & disc's package for my 2001 C4 the brand for the pads is Textar. (from www.Design911.co.uk)

I did a bit of research before I bought them and they are perfectly fine, in fact I think they actually make the Porsche OME pads.

Just with a differant stamp and price tag on them. The only thing that I notice is the the "break pad ware sensor contact" has become faulty,

causing a warning light to show, but it's no big deal as I know all is fine, just have to replace the contact.

Other than this, I'm happy with the Textar brand there fine if it's just for every day driving, but I'd maybe choose an other if the car is going to be

used on a the track.

Safe driving:)