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About tsweat

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  • From
    Dallas, TX
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    99 - 996 Cab Blk/Blk

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600 profile views
  1. Thanks for the good info, I posted a similar question a while back and still have the same issue... What if the window is not dropping at all, and also the "one-click" up/down will not work. In addition, when using the window switch in 'manual' mode it only moves 1/4" then you have to release and repress again and repeat until window up or down? :help:
  2. Thanks Izzy, I will try it out tonight if time permits. Once again, great write-up and thanks!!! Tim
  3. Good-day Izzy- It sure seems that our car's are sisters....as they keep having the same issues. :help: My top is now acting up and stalling in either direction. The motor is running, but sounds "louder", so I am thinking that this may be due to low hydraulic fluid as you mentioned in the post. This weekend, I plan to try out your method. I have a few questions... First, my stereo takes up the backseat area and is a pain to remove. It sounds like you are able to access the reservoir from the rear area (where the floded top sits). Is this correct? I do not need to remove the panel just behind the rear seats?? This would be great news! Second, Is this on the drivers side, or passenger side? Are there "fill lines"?? Third, fluid -- any ol' hydraulic fluid will work you think? Fourth, ever take any more pic's?? As always, thanks!!!! -Tim
  4. Izzy -- what did Sunset charge for the FOB's and how about the dealer programing fee? Thanks! Tim
  5. UPDATE WOW, what a difference this made. When I bought my car 2-1/2 years ago, the bonnet (trunk lid) popped up as I thought it should. Slowly over time it got worse until it would not work anymore and even triggered the alarm 'beep' fault. Today I finally got around to using Viper's tutorial and was amazed with the level of success. Not only did I save myself the time and money of going to the dealer, but the trunk lid now pops up with authority and a good two inches higher than it did when I bought the car. Thanks again to all who helped me out on this one!!! Bravo!!! :clapping: -Tim
  6. Wow...searched worked! :) Any updates on this? My 99' 996 Cab is starting to do this on the drivers side door. Also of note, the window will only "move" in small increments when using the window raise/lower switch?? I unhooked the battery to see if it would reset anything and seemed to help for a day or two, but now its back. Any thoughts? I would like to repair this issue myself if possible.... Thanks in advance!!! Tim
  7. Great Write-up Viper. Thanks...I will be using it this weekend. -Tim
  8. UPDATE It has been 700 miles (took a road trip to Austin) since I cleaned the MAF and replaced the air filter. So far, so good -- no Check Engine Light and no funny business. Hopefully this was the culprit (knock on wood). If anybody has questions about the process, or what I did, let me know. It was all fairly straightforward. -Tim
  9. Thanks for the heads-up Izzy. Mine is a 99' model and maybe it has just worn out as you suggest?? This weekend I will fiddle around and see what I find out and post the results. Thanks again! Tim
  10. Adjusting the Hood Latch Mechanism Eureka! I suppose during the time you guys were typing, I was arriving at the same conclusion. I pulled the latch mechanism out and examined it up-close. The tension spring was out of a pocket on the latch and not providing any push when the latch was released. Hence, the hood could be pulled up out of 'battery' but would not pop up on its own. I disassembled the mechanism, lubed it, and re-inserted the spring into the latch. Put it back together and now all is well. Very simple to do. This is how I did it and you may find it useful. Do so at your own risk, yada yada yada. 1st, open the hood and peel back the carpet cover just inside of the latch. Next, using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the four plastic 'screws' holding the trim plate between the bumper and the hood flange. They merely turn 90 degrees (so that they are perpendicular to the car's direction of travel) and pop out. Then remove the trim piece and place to the side. Next, using a ten millimeter socket, remove the two bolts securing the latch to the car. They are located just inside the trunk under the carpet you just peeled back. Once they are removed, the latch is now only held in place by two metal cables and the alarm pin switch wires. Carefully unplug the alarm wires. Push in on a small 'latch' on the lower half of the plug and pull out the lower half. Then carefully rotate the upper half about 45 degrees (it should be fairly easy to move, don't force it) and the plug will pop out of the metal holder. Then use a small screwdriver to gently push a release clip on the plastic mounting point. This will allow the small plastic mount to separate from the wiring plug. Now you need to gently remove the cables from their sockets. Take the tension off of the upper cable and gently pull the cable up out of its socket. Then remove the lower cable in the same way. The only thing holding the latch in the car now is the alarm wiring harness. Push the rubber grommet through the body toward the bumper. You can then pull the wiring through and the entire latch will come out of the car. Be sure to set the stainless steel shroud to the side. It was not attached on my car but may be on yours. Now that you have the latch out of the car, you can see the large diameter steel spring that is wound around the large post to the passenger side of the latch. That is the culprit. The small plastic shroud over it pulled straight out and off of my latch. This is the microswitch that tells the alarm that the trunk is open or closed. Set it to the side. You should now see the latch mechanism and the hole that the spring needs to be in to function properly. I used two screwdrivers to push the other end of the spring (the end on the release / catch mechanism ) over the catch. This allowed me to push the end into the latch more easily. I then popped the spring back over the catch. Now there should be tension on both the latch and the catch. Lubricate with white lithium grease, or some other semi-solid lubricant and work the mechanism to ensure that it is functioning properly. Once you have confirmed proper function, reassemble in reverse order (i.e. put the alarm switch back on - it should snap right back in place ), pop the cable back on, thread the wiring through and secure the grommet in place, place the stainless shroud on, insert the bolts and loosely tighten things. Once the bolts are in, line up the hood and the latch mechanism and tighten down the latch. Replace the plastic bumper/body trim piece but don't insert the 'screws' until you've tested the hood a couple times. Once it is clear that the hood is functioning properly, secure the trim, replace the carpet and smile at a job well done, for free. If I can figure out how to transfer my pictures out of my camera phone I'll add some illustration to this. Hope this helps. I was frustrated as *)*^*( until y'all help me realize what the problem was. Pictures ... Author viper501 Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 07/06/2005 08:16 PM Updated 03/17/2017 05:12 AM  
  11. Split. Check your PM. Are you here in Dallas (Valley Ranch)?
  12. Hello All... I have searched and read all questions and responses regarding error codes from check engine light notices. All provided insight, but I am still confused on what plan of attack MY SITUATION calls for... First off, I posted a note many months ago when the first CEL came on, inquiring about a dirty air filter and if that could be the culprit. The light went away, so I figured no harm (filter seemed as though it had some more miles left). Fast forward to now, and the CEL has been flickering on-&-off for about the last month, (I don't drive it that much). So this weekend, I checked the code (and cleared). I am receiving error code P1125 (Scan tool read out 'Fuel Air Metering Control'), Loren's list reads this code as (Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Cylinders 4-6). This is the only error code listed from the scanner. First Question: Cleaning the MAF Sensor seems fairly straightforward, is there any way that, if careful, cleaning can cause damage to an otherwise healthy sensor? Second Question: Could it in fact be my first guess months ago of a dirty air filter that needs to be replaced? I will be replacing filter tomorrow regardless. Third Question: Code is cleared, but will disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes "reset" the computer calibration for fuel/air mixture in case cleaning of the MAF and new air filter rectify the situation? Thanks in Advance!!!! -Tim
  13. Replaced mine myself. Under $10 part, and SIMPLE. The only hassle is removing the console, but that is fairly easy as well (just time consuming).
  14. Could an air filter that needs to be replaced cause a Check Engine Light to come on? Just a standard air filter, no mods done to the system. Thanks! -TS
  15. Great info once again!! Thanks Loren!! It really puzzled me (and worried me since mine is out of warranty). -TS
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