MY996TT

14 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

Unfortunately, Porsche stopped making the print versions of the manuals some years ago, so you are limited to doing an internet search for someone selling a set.  You also need to look for the turbo version, which is different from the standard 996.

Thank you JFP.

Just now, MY996TT said:

 

 

Loren,

Thank you for the information.  I have a real PST2 (not the PC version); how can I obtain the paper version of the service manuals.

Eugene

btw, I have a 996 Turbo.

25 minutes ago, Loren said:

 

Other instructions for key programming etc. can be found in the paper versions of the service manuals (17 volumes).

25 minutes ago, Loren said:

 

Other instructions for key programming etc. can be found in the paper versions of the service manuals (17 volumes).

Loren,

Thank you for the information.  I have a real PST2 (not the PC version); how can I obtain the paper version of the service manuals.

Eugene

On ‎10‎/‎13‎/‎2006 at 1:25 AM, Richard Hamilton said:

Here's a Quick Start Guide I made a while ago:

PST2_Quick_Start.pdf

And here's how to change units:

Unit_Setting.pdf

Hi Richard,

You seemed very knowledgeable on PST2.  Is there other detail information I can find somewhere?  Something like how to program a key or reset the car to readiness?

Thanks, Eugene

Unless you do the job yourself, you cannot find a better Porsche performance shop in the Bay Area.

Scientific hypothesis? Hell I can't even spell hippopatomus

This is funny!

I do agree with wross996TT; it should drop boost when leaking. Maybe when the DVs weren't properly installed, they actually block the flow.

You've all been almost right - not only did I fry my ECU by connecting the battery conditioner incorrectly, I also fried something in the alternator, so as the battery was dying, I got all the flashing lights. The dealer replaced the alternator, recharged the battery and checked everything out. It runs like it's supposed to now and I'm going to do the Softronic chip from Vivid in the next couple of days.

Major lesson learned - don't hook up a battery conditioner backward or be prepared to pay about $3000 to fix things. OUCH!

Or spend another $60 more to get the one plugs into your cig. lighter... then you won't connect it wrong.

I think it is the battery too. When my battery was dieing about two weeks ago, I had all sorts of lights coming on one after the other. Everything was back to normal so far, excepted for I needed to disconnect my battery (I did it over night, but some say 30 min. is good) to reset the ECU.

I have a Tip myself and love it; if you're thinking about tracking, go with 6speed. Some say 6speed are faster, but I know mine is fast. However, I know that 130-top is faster with 6speed.

I have not heard anyone needed to replace a Tip transmission and only heard a seal problem from one person. But manual clutch needs to be replaced especially you are going to high hp. The Tip should take up to 700hp without a problem.

Yes on dealer PPI.

Buying a mod car is fine, most abuse comes from tracking. My car is mod'd (stock when purchased), and I don't abuse the car; only do a wot once awhile. It is good to know the age of the owner too.

I have been trying to get one of these 8-track boxes... you're so luck and got one that came with the car.

Just realized there are two current threads running re battery/alternator issues. could this be an epidemic?

Well, in my case, it's not a dead battery - all's pointing to the alternator. Dropped it into my local indi this morning - they told me that they've had quite a few '01 and '02 facelift 996's in recently for new alternators, so it may be just things of a certain age starting to pack up :(

In my case, the Battery/Gen light didn't come on; but other warnings like PSM/ABS came on for about a second and went away. I replaced the OEM battery... hopefully that's it.

You can find a lot of P-car info here...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porsche_996

Look at the bright side, you don't have to hold the buttom to open your top. :D

I actually have the same problem with my RemoteTop; and I didn't change the battery. Since I bought the RemoteTop because of the Lock/Unlock when driving/pull key and the chirp when lock/unlock, I disabled the remote top up/down function.

However, I think this maybe related to the chirp function being set "on". You may want to turn off that function to see if the top still comes down when unlock.

The chirp function also affected my window... didn't close all the way. I turned off the function and re-enable the remote top function. All functions are working fine except for the disable chirp function.

Look at the bright side, you don't have to hold the buttom to open your top. :D

I actually have the same problem with my RemoteTop; and I didn't change the battery. Since I bought the RemoteTop because of the Lock/Unlock when driving/pull key and the chirp when lock/unlock, I disabled the remote top up/down function.

However, I think this maybe related to the chirp function being set "on". You may want to turn off that function to see if the top still comes down when unlock.

I say it's BS.

Check out this website...

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/

I used the swirl remover product (applied three times like the instruction) with a Porter Cable buffer. Most swirl marks were gone except for those deeper one. I have a dark red car and the production is especially for darker cars. This product doesn't remove clearcoat but to fill it. It came out really good.

Remember to wax it after, or the swirl marks will show up again after a few months. There are instructions on the website too.

I would say PSS9 and H&R Sway Bars (I will have them soon).

Will do, thanks again.

Hi there , I have similar HRE wheels, you should be able to get an extension from any good wheel shop I have both plastic and metal ones and both work well

Thank you for the info. I'm in the Bay Area and am not sure what kind of "wheel shop" you mentioned. We have tire shops here, but pretty sure they don't sell extensions. Do you have a picture?

I have a set of HRE 890R wheels with the valve stems inside the spokes. Pumping air at gas stations is difficult because most nozzles won't fit thru between spokes. Is there a tool (like an extension) or tricks to make the job easier?

Thank you.

Thank you Lightstream, I'll keep that in mind.

I actaully took the car to a local tire shop. The outcome is not bad. The mechanic spent 2+ hours aligning the wheels. I guess I got my money worth, $130 vs $400.

Hi,

I have a 996TT which I have all wheels aligned annually, once at OPC and other at Continental Tyre dealer with laser aligner.

I can say both do a fine job OPC costs more.

Some argue OPC place weights in the driver seat before aligning, but a good laser aligner operator can also do a good job. Make sure they have experience with exotic cars

The 996 TT has a number of adjustments front and back.

Googluck

Thanks Somahone,

It is good to know that they do about the same job.

Today I installed the Europipe Stage 1 exhaust system on the 02 X50 and I have to say that the sound is exactly what I wanted. You can tell there's an upgraded exhaust there, but it's not obnoxiously loud....however as you hit 4000 to 6000 rpms, it opens up very nicely. Since it has 100 cell cats, the turbos spool up quicker and the back pressure has been reduced considerably, but there's no CEL's thrown at all...and absolutely no drone at any rpm. I bought the system off another Rennlister who wanted to mod his Porsche to 700 and the Stage 1 is limited to 600 HP. I'm content to stay where I am and enjoy the wonderful sound of a great system. The downside of Europipe is the cost, but I couldn't be more pleased.

If you go to the Europipe website, it has all the db ratings from inside and outside measured at various rpms, and compared to the stock systems....so it gives you a fairly accurate way to judge the sound levels.

I currently run the Fabspeed on my tiptronic TT and the drone absolutely kills me. Have a friend with a tiptronic TT that has installed the Europipes.

Strangely he apparently still encounters drone with the pipes (though I have yet to sit in his car and see what his idea of drone is), and when he contacted Europipes they said that it might have something to do with the fact that he is running it on a tiptronic. I find that slightly strange though. In any case, thanks for the info, will look into the Europipes more seriously now.

Hi Harold 348,

Do you have the normal version of Fabspeed or the "quiet" version, which specifically for cabriolet with tip?

I just had my 04 996TT stage 2 completed a couple of weeks ago. It included a Fabspeed cat and a "quiet" exhaust, and V-flow intake. The sound is not "quiet" around 2000+ rpm; but it sounds really good when at lower or higher rpm. I noticed that there is no different before or after installing the Fab at low rpm. However, I can feel the car is faster at the top because the air flows thru so fast. This is true for TT but not sure for C2.

Thanks Dus10R,

I called a couple of dealers and both of them said the roads in CA are sloped to the right. As long as I let go the steering wheel for about 10 seconds and I don't end up in the next lane (at least a two lane road), the alignment should be fine. Based on reading from other threads, I think I'll take my car to the dealer, $399 out the door.

Eugene