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charlesl

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Everything posted by charlesl

  1. This is an amazingly contentious subject. I asked a friend here who owns not one but TWO cup cars and here was his explanation: There are two ways to fix the nail: 1) The gooey rope looking thing that's shoved in from the outside of the tire. This is fine for street and DE events. The tire will be fine but it will lose it's "Z" rating at that point. 2) Removing the tire from the wheel and patching it from the inside. The tire will retain it's "Z" rating and will pass tech inspection for a race. That said, it's completely up to you if you're willing to run a tire this way. I know some club racers that replace the tire at the smallest nail. I know others that'll run them patched just as hard. I haven't seen any solid data that indicates a tire patched from the inside was any more likely to fail. -Charles
  2. I have new shims but they are not installed at this time. The squeal is pretty much eliminated now. Every now and then I'll get a little squeak or squeal but it's very livable now. If it gets bad again, I'll take everything out and put the new spiders in. I'm quite convinced it was the EBC Green pads that did the trick. I talked to several mechanics and they never had any luck eliminated squeal with the OEM pads. -Charles
  3. Gang, I've made some more progress on the brake squeal issue. Here's what I have now: Rear Brakes Front Brakes I installed the brakes with the OEM anti-squeal "spiders" from Porsche. Initial Results: 1) Brake squeal is greatly reduced and is diminishing even further. According to the pad manufacturer, the pads need a few hundred miles before fully bedding and eliminating the squeal. This is consistent with what I am experiencing. The howl I used to get from the rear brakes is completely gone. That one was the worst. I'm still getting some of the high frequency squeal at once specific point in the pedal. If I press down a touch more or a touch less, it stops. 2) Brake dusting is reduced. Hard to say by how much. I do know that I can make about twice as many trips in the car before the compulsion to clean my wheels overwhelms me. FAQ: Q: Are these pads OK for track use as well? A: I don't track my car so I can't say for sure, but I really don't think so. They're specified as a street pad. If you're tracking your GT3, you probably have other pads for that anyway. Q: Can you use the OEM brake wear sensors with these pads? A: Yes. The EBC pads come with the notch for the sensor. I had to scrape a bit of the paint out of the notch to get them to slide in but they fit just fine. Q: How come the DP21514 pad is listed as a "front" instead of a "rear?" A: GT3 rear brakes are identical to front brakes on Boxsters, Caymans, and some Carreras. Porsche used the same caliper, rotor, etc. The parts sites haven't caught up on this yet. Q: What's the black square on the back of each pad? A: Factory anti-squal or anti-vibration padding. The OEM "spiders" may not be needed with this. I didn't try it that way. Q: Where can I get these pads? A: I ordered mine from AJUSA.COM but I assume other places have them. Note that I have no association with AJUSA. I'm not interested in selling brake pads. I'm interested in eliminating squeal in a GT3. Q: Do these style pads come in any other compounds? A: Yes. There are what they call "Yellowstuff" and "Redstuff" compounds. The redstuff are ceramic pads. Q: Do the EBC pads "feel" any different that the stock ones? A: I really can't tell any difference. I've tried braking easy, braking hard and I just can't feel any difference. That's about all I can think of for now. I'll continue to post updates as these pads bed. Thanks! -Charles
  4. UPDATE: Despite all my efforts, the brake squeal is still more than I can tolerate. The brakes are quiet when I leave the house for the first few miles. After that, they start squealing again. I'm pretty sure they're squealing a lot more when they're hot. I've ordered a set of EBC Green pads for the GT3. They shipped yesterday and I'll update this thread again once they're installed. -Charles
  5. UPDATE: OK, things are definitely better now. I loaned my daily driver to a friend since her car is in the shop so I've been driving the GT3 for three days now. The brake squeal is most certainly improved but not entirely gone. It is diminished to the point I can live with the car now. The final straw with me was when I stopped at a stop sign in my neighborhood and there were some people standing at the corner with their dog. Well, the brakes started howling and the dog howled right along with them... Ugh. Anyway, here's what I believe to be the tricks to making this work: 1) Clean everything with brake cleaner. Pad backing plates, anti-squeal spiders, pistons, everything. 2) Use PLENTY of anti-sqeal compound. The instructions say cover the entire back of the pad. Do so. 3) Make sure you push the pistons all the way into the caliper before reassembly. 4) Let the compound get pretty tacky before you put it back together. I waited about 20 minutes. 5) You'll still need to bed the pads. Run up to 80mph or so and romp down on the brakes down to 5mph. Repeat at least once. I'm looking into some EBC Green pads for this car. They reportedly dust MUCH less. If they also don't squeal as much it'll be a win all the way around. I'll update this thread again over the weekend. Thanks! -Charles
  6. Update: Using the anti-sqeal compound alone did not really fix the issue. I don't think they sqealed as much but it certainly wasn't what I was after. This past weekend I tackled it again. I took the pads back out and removed all of the red anti-squeal compound and cleaned it off the pistons as well. I then cleaned and replaced the anti-squeal spiders that I'd taken out last time. Next, I covered the back of each pad with red anti-squeal compound and let it sit for 20 minutes or so. Again, you want to get the pads back into the caliper without scraping all the compound off. Push the pistons back into the calipers with your fingers. Keep the pads against the rotors as they slide in. This seems to have eliminated the squeal from the front brakes entirely. I can't make them squeal anymore. The rears may or may not squeal when I stop. It seems to be impossible to predict. It does help to bed the pads in thoroughly. Get the car up to 75 or so and brake HARD down to 5mph. Repeat once or twice. I'll keep you posted... -Charles
  7. Gang, I got really, really tired of sounding like a school bus when approaching an intersection or something. After some work, I eliminated about 90% of the brake squeal on my 04 GT3. Here's what I did: 1) Take the brake pads out of the caliper. 2) Remove the anti-squeal shims. I did not replace them. 3) Clean the inside of the caliper and the metal back of each pad. These surfaces need to be really clean. 4) Cover the ENTIRE back of each pad with a thick coat of red anti-squeal compound. The instructions say let it dry for 10 minutes before replacing but I found it took about 30 minutes. You want the compound to be tacky. Again, cover the entire back of the pad. Not just the spot where the pistons will hit. The compound itself changes the resonant frequency and will help reduce squeal as well as bonding the pad to the piston. 5) Squeeze the caliper pistons back into the caliper. Just reach in there and squeeze them one at a time with your fingers. No need to use a tool here. 6) Slide the pads back into the calipers. Be careful to keep the pad against the rotor when you slide it in. You don't want all of your anti-squeal compound to be scraped off on the edge of the caliper. 7) Replace all of the retaining hardware. 8) Pump the brake pedel to push the pistons into the compound and repeat the process for the other three wheels. 9) If at all possible, let everything sit overnight to let the compound dry thoroughly. This really made a huge difference. I can still hear a bit of squeal on occasion and I have to listen closely. I've read about some other methods as well. Some owners have had good luck with using the OEM anti-squeal "spiders." They use the antisqueal compound between the spider and the pad plate. This effectively glues the spider to the back of the pad and reduces the sqeal. The downside is you have to remove the caliper to get the pad out now. There just isn't enough clearance with the rotor in there. If you're changing from street to track pads often this would probably be more pain that it's worth. -Charles
  8. Ugh... I should have found that. I did a search on "automatic door lock" but apparently that wasn't exactly what I needed to do. Thanks bud... -Charles
  9. Hi gang, I stopped by my dealer this morning to have the automatic door lock feature turned off on my 04 996. When we went into the software, we found four codes but they were just numbers. We had to find out what they meant by trial and error. 1 - Doors Lock when Ignition is Switched On. 2 - Doors Lock when 5mph is reached. 3 - Unknown 4 - Doors do not automatically lock. Anyone know what option 3 does?
  10. Rickster, You are a GOD. Seriously man. My brother's Boxster had a constant battery drain for years. They just kept it on the Porsche Battery Maintainer all the time. This treated the symptoms, but sure didn't cure the problem. After reading your post here, I disconected the stupid alarm horn beside the battery and for the first time in 3 years, they can leave the car without the charger attached! It's been a week now without the charger and before it would have been completely dead in two days. We're going to let it go another week before calling this done but I'm pretty sure you solved this annoying and nagging problem for us. Thank you SO MUCH! Charles
  11. Hey Philip, OK that would be cool. Probably more academic than anything else at this point. Any chance you could take a photo or two of your exhaust and post them here? Thanks! -Charles I took my GT3 to the local MOT station (annual vehicle inspection after three years old) and looked all around the exhaust while she was on the ramp - couldn't see any part numbers as I guess they're on the side that faces into the rear PU. I know the system was fitted by Porsche GB themselves - and they would never fit a non-Porsche part to a car within warranty period. I'll try calling Porsche UK and see what they say - might be able to get a copy of the original supply invoice to the previous owner although last time I tried they went on about 'data protection' etc etc. :censored: Philip
  12. Yea, I'd be really curious about that. I do know that it's a different engine but was wondering if the exhaust was the same. Honestly, I wouldn't be surprised if they were identical. If anyone has details, please share them! Thanks as always... -Charles
  13. Dude, Porsche should just hire you. Seriously. You know more about these cars than anyone I've ever met. -Charles
  14. Gang, Pardon me if this has been asked before but someone asked me and I can't seem to find any solid references in the archives. -Can the standard 996 PSE (Porsche Sport Exhaust) be fitted onto an MY04 GT3? -If the cans fit, then how about the vacuum and electrical installation? Thanks so much... -Charles
  15. This is pretty common. If it REALLY bothers you, take off the door panels and clean the oil off the little wheels that hold the glass in place. If not, just ignore it for a while and the oil tracks will eventually go away. -Charles
  16. Agreed. I like the idea, but these really aren't looking so good anymore. The Evolution Motorsport seems to be better, but I don't hear much about it here. -Charles
  17. Yea, I just checked that again and they are right there. Man, FVD is mighty proud of these things! I asked Eric (the Plug Guy) about getting into this once. I sure think someone could make these for a reasonable price and really sell a lot of them. I know I'd LOVE to have a set in red, but I'm not spending $500 on a set... reesestewww - I just logged onto the address given by charlesl and the gauges are there. Look under "Interior", then "Gauge Faces".
  18. I'm going to go with everyone else here. Leave it off. It's ugly, and doesn't really do much for you anyway. Talk to some people that have rear wipers and see if they really use them much. -Charles
  19. Hey David, That's pretty much what I was looking for. I really like the side skirts but I'm not interested in the whole AeroKit. The C2 already has a clean and classic look. Here's my 996. I think the Side Skirts would look really nice here. -Charles Mine - you'll need to cover the rear spoiler with your hand ! David 2002 C2
  20. My passenger side started doing that as well and stopped just as suddenly. Now I can't MAKE it happen. I wonder if there is some sensor in the door that tells it how far to drop when the door is opened. If you get an answer to this please post it here. There are at least two of us that are pretty curious about this one. Thanks! -Charles
  21. Gang, I'm half-heartedly looking into the Aerokit II Side Skirts for my Guards Red 996. Not really looking at the new bumper and wing at this time. Does anyone have a pic of a C2 with only the Side Skirts? Does anyone know how they install as far as drilling holes, etc.? Thanks in advance! -Charles
  22. You can get gauge faces here, but they certainly aren't cheap: http://www.fvd-web.com/fvd-usa/ -Charles
  23. Gang, I looked here for a post on how to change out the e-brake handle and never really found one. Perhaps I was searching for the wrong term. Anyway, I found a good one on the PCA website: http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...C-D5D122E2FD61} The article has you remove the console first. You can follow the directions in the link above, but the .PDF below from B&M is even better: http://www.bmracing.com/media/products/pdf/67.pdf Cheers!
  24. Yea, I saw that link but that means taking the entire section of pipe out. Removing or even loosening that clamp will mean re-aligning the tailpipes again. I just want to slide the tips off, polish them, and put them back. I think it's going to come down to the Dremel and a cutting disk to notch out the oval in the tip.... -Charles
  25. Thorsten, Yea, it's tricky. This link has a good photo: http://www.belladessa.com/auctions/exhaust/exhaust.htm The TSB makes it look like the tank is just to the right of the positive battery connection. It's actually several inches towards the front of the car. You're looking for a short bolt that's holding down a hose holder. It'll be under several other hoses that will block your view. If you look at the right side of the engine where the picture shows, move those hoses to your right and you should see the bolt to take out. Thanks! -Charles
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