RotorHead

Ok. Thanks for the info Loren.

1

Hmmnn...odd that there isn't another number on the bumper cover. :huh:

Are sure that is not an assembly number?

The part number for a MY99 Carrera is 996.505.411.08.G2X

Minus a RoW P/N (996-505-211-00), there are no other P/Ns on the item (see pic). Perhaps they made some bumpers with a different number originally?

Hi. I'm trying to cross-reference the P/N in the topic. Please advise...

Rotor

I sure would love to get my hands on this TSB. Please?

Rotor sends...

:renntech:

In the spark plug DIY, Loren mentions a 4" "wobble" extension. Craftsman makes a 3" type of this. Would this be adequate or is the extra inch important? Please advise...

Rotor

There is no way to "properly" lift the car using a free hanging engine.

Sure there is. The method that I describe which is done day in and day out in every Porsche workshop world-wide.

Keep in mind that the time that the car is being supported this way is just the time necessary (like a minute or two) to get the rear jack stands under the car. This process subjects the engine and motor mounts to far less stress that the they receive under normal road use. Because of this short duration there is absolutely not an issue. Keep in mind that the engine is normally hanging off of the chassis by the rear motor mounts, and the lifting of the engine simply puts compression on these mounts in exactly the same way that they get compressed in normal road use (like when the car hits a bump, or is driven on rough roads).

Now some will chime in that after lifting their car this way, that they experienced a ruptured motor mount. In those cases, the mount was going to fail anyway due to operational fatigue and it better that the mount failed during maintenance rather than unexpectedly where it might not be discovered for many miles.

How about the round jack pad adapters...are they necessary? Please advise...

One of the questions that comes up frequently is what is the best and safest way to put your 996/986/997/987 up on jack stands. The chassis and jack points are the same for all models, and lifting the car up off of all 4 wheels is easy. Here is a little DIY instruction on how I do it.

The 4 lift points as described in your owners manual are where you support the car with Jackstands. Here is the jack stand that I use. Any Jack stand with at least a two to three ton rating will do.

First, you put the front jackstands on by lifting the car from the rear lift point. Using a standard hydraulic jack, lift the car up on one side so that both wheels are off the ground, and the front is high enough to clear the jack stand.

Here is the front lift point.

After you have one jack stand placed, lower the jack, and do the other side. The car is so stiff, that the other sides front wheel will come up off of the ground. Other side is just like the first.

Note the orientation of the lift points and how the jackstands are arranged.

Next you have to lift the rear. There are 2 places that mechanics use as a lift point for the rear. One is the rear sub-frame cross member that is below the engine and the transmission, and the other is on the rear engine case just behind the oil sump cover. I prefer lifting from the engine case because my jack does not clear the engine oil sump to reach the crossmember.

There is a large metal stub that is cast into the engine case. That is where you lift, making sure that your jack does not contact the oil sump cover casting. Center the jack on the engine or on the subframe and lift the car high enough to put the remaining stands on the 2 rear lift points.

And with that you are done.

Just take your time and make sure that each jackstand is centered and aligned properly on the lift points and you will have no problems.

One last thing, it is to your advantage to break the torque on all of the lug nuts before your lift the car up off of the ground. Also when you are lifting the car, make sure it is on a level surface, and the car is in neutral and the parking brake is off so the car can pivot on its wheels as it is lifted.

Lowering the car is the opposite of the above. Once you get the hang of this, you can have your car up in the air in under 5 minutes.

I've heard of busted motor mounts when trying to lift the back of the car this way. Any truth or experience with this? Also, is it necessary to use the round jack pad adapters? Please advise...

Rotor

Fred Lavery, a dealer in Birmingham Michigan requested that I pre-approve 15 hours of labor so they can remove the transmission in an effort to troubleshoot the problem.

This equates to $ 1,950.

wife is pulling the 'i told you so...' routine.

daughter is demanding that I buy a hybrid to save the world.

son wants me to get the panamera.

Has anyone ever had success in dealing with Porsche financial to plead extra warranty time?

I'm so sick of hearing about engine problems. I think a class-action suit is in order!

Rotor

What's wrong with yours?

Loren,

Thanks for the quick response. Unfortunately, the covers are in Boston and I'm in Olympia, WA. The seller states the items are OEM and I'm simply trying to "trust but verify." I've asked for photos of the part numbers and what you see is the result. Otherwise, they appear to be in great shape and off a car w/less than 30K miles. Any way to cross the sub-assembly P/Ns?

Rotor

Juniinc,

I had a 17 year-old back into my 996 in a parking lot (no internal damage). So, I'm having both sprayed for the same cost as just the rear from Porsche. The dealer wants nearly $900 for just the rear bumper cover.

Ok...thanks for the feedback.

Loren,

Thanks for the quick response. Unfortunately, the covers are in Boston and I'm in Olympia, WA. The seller states the items are OEM and I'm simply trying to "trust but verify." I've asked for photos of the part numbers and what you see is the result. Otherwise, they appear to be in great shape and off a car w/less than 30K miles. Any way to cross the sub-assembly P/Ns?

Rotor

I don't have a way to cross the sub-assembly. maybe a dealer could by checking the numbers on their stock.

Loren,

I should have posted the pictures of the bumper covers earlier (see edited earlier post). Is it reasonable to assume that if there are sub-assy part numbers then the equipment is OEM?

The seller says they are off a '99 996.

Rotor

Loren,

Thanks for the quick response. Unfortunately, the covers are in Boston and I'm in Olympia, WA. The seller states the items are OEM and I'm simply trying to "trust but verify." I've asked for photos of the part numbers and what you see is the result. Otherwise, they appear to be in great shape and off a car w/less than 30K miles. Any way to cross the sub-assembly P/Ns?

Rotor

I'm thinking about purchasing these covers for my '99 996 C2 Cab. Problem is, I can't seem to confirm the part number. Please help if you can.

Thanks!

Rotor

Well, I've no experience rebuilding a Porsche engine but it can't be THAT complicated despite being a flat-6. I've rebuild V-6 & V-8 motors, some of which I could probably do in my sleep even after not doing that kind of work for nearly 20 years.

Besides the basic metric sockets, wrenches and perhaps a torque wrench or two and an engine stand, I can't imagine the tools being too expensive. After all, if you're going to rebuild the core it may be worth it to give it a whirl.

Mother, what's wrong with the engine you're replacing?

Rotor

You are probably having an issue with input leveling. The 5V pre-out your deck has is probably too much for the stock Haes amp. IMHO, you probably only have two options:

1) Use a line-leveler for your speaker outputs into the amp...or...probably a better option

2) Replace the useless factory amp.

Granted, you'll need cross-overs for the factory speakers or buy a six-channel amp with cross-overs built in. Beyond that, things get a little more complicated and therefore, expensive.

I was able to replace all four front speaker assemblies with MB Quart and Focal speakers, build a custom subwoofer enclosure that houses a JL Audio 10W3, install a decent Alpine HU and a nice used 5-channel JL Audio amp to drive the fronts/sub while my HU drives the rears within my wife's budjet of $1500.

If you want to try and "piece" the system together, most people here recommend replacing the speakers first, amp second and finally the HU. It appears as though your buddy might be trying the very opposite.

Hope this helps!

Rotor

Hmmmnn...I don't get it. Why not simply rebuild the engine? Are specific engine replacement parts, seal kits, torque values (etc.) unavailable?

Rotor

I have a friend with a 99 C2, non bose. Installed a pioneer head unit and hooked up to factory amp / speakers. sound is horrible!

Should it be wired RCA-level or speaker-level from the pioneer to the factory amp? both ways sound bad, static, etc.

The pioneer head unit is a new one with 5v pre-out on the rca lines. Best we can get is with the RCA output hooked up to the factory amp, but haveto turn volume all the way up to get reasonable output and even then it is staticy.

amp does tun on, all wiring seems right.

Thoughts?

How is it wired when you use the RCA pre-outs? What are you doing with the "negative" side of the RCA lines?

I have a MY99 996 Cab with the dreaded airbag light on as well. Upon further investigation, it seems the car has a bit of history with the dealer. Evidently, the buckles have never been replaced. It seems like a fairly easy task to me and one that I'm willing to try on my own.

There are several organizations (e.g., Pelican Parts) that sell the buckles for significantly less than the dealer (~$120 vs. $350). In addition, it seems logical that if I were to buy a used set (say out of a MY03) they should work as well in accordance with the TSB.

Any thoughts?

Rotor sends.

sweet, looks like you didnt lose too much cargo area (besides the loss of a passenger seat)

any reason you didnt go with grey carpet to match?

The interior color is black. These particular pictures show the contrast in the colors of the carpet.

Rotor

I just finished my custom subwoofer enclosure for the back seat of my 99 996 C2S Cab.

I chose to pull the lumbar and bottom cushion rather than trying to configure a speaker directly behind one of the front seats. There were a couple of reasons for this...

- I'm nearly 6'2" and need most of the room the seat provides for

- I was aiming for an enclosure around .6 to .8 cubic ft of air; therefore I needed space

In the box is a JL Audio 10W3-D6 that will sound quite nice once it's hooked up to a JL Audio 500/1 amp! Unfortunately, I have to wait on my Alpine IVA-W205 to arrive this weekend before completing the custom stereo install.

Comments/thought?

Rotor sends...

I am looking for a retail distributor of OEM interior trim (other than the dealer.) I am particularly interested in a trim piece to move my A/C controls from the upper to lower console.

Thanks!

RotorHead

I realize its a dealer, but I ordered the exact trim piece through Ray Catena Porsche in NJ and it only cost $5.93. Mine hasn't come in yet, its due in Monday.

Joe D.

Joe,

Thanks for the quick response. Is your trim piece for the middle or upper part of your lower console? I would like to find one for the upper side personally.

RotorHead

Hi,

I dont think the upper slot will hold the AC Heat controller. Its slightly larger and there are slots in teh frame that the components slide into. I think it can only go on the bottom. My trim piece was ordered for the bottom.

Thanks, Joe D.

Hi Joe,

Was wondering if you successfully moved your AC Heat controller to the bottom slot. I am thinking of doing the same to install a nav system. My question is, were the wires long enough to reach the bottom slot, and can you post the part # of the trim piece you got from Ray Catena Porsche for the lower slot. Thanks.

I dont have the part number yet. Its been in since Monday and I wont be able to get it until Saturday. I can post it then. Or, you can call them and ask for Allan. He is top notch. Just tell him its the same one Joe D. ordered.

Joe D.

Hi Joe,

Thanks for the response. No problem, I just picked up the trim piece at my local dealer in Newport Beach, also the 2 brackets required to install the A/C controller in the lower slot. I also picked up the top Boxter shelf, as it is smaller and fits where the CD caddy was with no modifications. If you need the numbers for the bracket or the top shelf, let me know. Good luck with your install.

John

John,

Can you post the part numbers for the brackets and the Boxster shelf? Could you also please include pics (if possible.)

Thanks!

RotorHead

Joe,

Did you have to modify the door openings any? I understand the factory speakers are 5 1/4". Do you have pics of the door & dash speakers as well?

RotorHead

I am looking for a retail distributor of OEM interior trim (other than the dealer.) I am particularly interested in a trim piece to move my A/C controls from the upper to lower console.

Thanks!

RotorHead

I realize its a dealer, but I ordered the exact trim piece through Ray Catena Porsche in NJ and it only cost $5.93. Mine hasn't come in yet, its due in Monday.

Joe D.

Joe,

Thanks for the quick response. Is your trim piece for the middle or upper part of your lower console? I would like to find one for the upper side personally.

RotorHead