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crwarren11

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Everything posted by crwarren11

  1. I had a similar problem not too long ago with the same codes. In my case it was a leak in the intake tube between the MAF and the throttle body. I used a smoke tester to locate the leak, repaired, and it has not come back. In the past I have dealt with these simultaneous codes and they have also been leaks in the intake (rubber boots cracked and/or torn between the plenum, loose connections of the same, cracked hose from the AOS). As others have said there are several root causes which you should not ignore but from a relatively easy first step I would look for sources of unmetered air getting into the intake after the MAF. If it is bad enough to cause a stall then it might be obvious…this usually happens to me when I forget to put something back together after some work that required removal of the intake and/or plenum.
  2. Some good news to report. Monitor went ready yesterday and passed smog. I know I’ll still need to deal with that cat at some point but I’ve got a couple of years now to look for a replacement.
  3. Agreed. I have a few more things to try before succumbing to new or used cats but definitely on the radar.
  4. Ahh likely the case here in CA. I know theft of cats are a big problem here. There are zero listings on Craigslist. Interesting that the entire x-pipe including cats are really easy to find for my M3.
  5. This is probably why I didn’t see many on a quick search. I’ll get into it more as I have time to really dig.
  6. Yep I am hoping to find some lightly used cats. I did a couple of quick searches without much luck but didn’t put a lot of time into it yet.
  7. Thanks for the help guys. I suspect bank 2 cat is bad. I just wish that it was good enough to give me a ready state to pass smog. Not quite ready to give up hope but getting there.
  8. Thanks. It is still confusing me why, if the cat is bad, that I am not getting the associated code. Just that the monitor is not ready.
  9. I typically use Durametric to read the values, but happened to have a wireless reader plugged in today so I can show you the readings. As you will see, Bank 1 looks good, O2 sensor after cat is steady (green line). Bank 2 O2 sensor after cat (green line) is oscillating, not as much as pre-cat (red line), but certainly less than ideal.
  10. Ok, finally smoke tested and had a couple of findings. The intake tube had a leak at the location circled in red. I repaired it with RTV silicone. Two locations on the intake manifold, also circled in red. I saw another post about someone having a leak at the place where the internal flap is located, so I'll look into that. On the SAI hose, I noticed that it does not have the bulge at the end of it like the other one. Wondering if this is the cause of that leak? All back together and everything is running great. No CEL and no codes stored at all. All monitors are ready...except for the catalyst once again. I will continue to drive and hope that it is just needing more drive cycles, but the voltage of the O2 sensor behind the cat on bank 2 is still not great, but maybe good enough to pass? Not sure. I would love to hear if anyone thinks this less-than-ideal voltage on the O2 sensor is what is causing the monitor to not be ready, even without any of the typical codes for cats going bad.
  11. Quick update...I put in the new O2 sensor behind the cat. The old one had a fair amount of fluid on it. It seemed like oil to me but not 100% sure. Also, I noticed that the O2 sensor ahead of the cat was quite loose - probably two full turns out of the threaded hole, so I tightened that one down. On the intake side, I removed the air filter, MAF, large intake tube, and throttle body. As someone else had mentioned, I found some debris and a fairly large leaf on the screen ahead of the MAF. I vacuumed all of that out of the filter area and intake tube. I cleaned up the throttle body, but it didn't seem too dirty to me. I put everything back together and then tried the smoke tester. I never got any indication of smoke coming from the intake system, even after ~10-15min of smoke going in. That said, I am questioning the location where I was putting in the smoke. I used the hole where the SAI hose goes into the right-side plenum. Sorry, first-time smoke testing here...is this a suitable location or is somewhere else better? I have not had the chance to run the car yet other than pulling into the garage. Hoping to get some more time to smoke test this week.
  12. Hi all, Looking for some guidance here on a 2000 Boxster Tiptronic with about 120k mi. I am intermittently getting P1128 (360) / P1130 (361) codes which will sometimes cause a CEL and also sometimes the CEL will also go away without resetting. Durametric specifies these as idle range codes. I know the typical reasons for these codes which I am chasing down right now. I have a smoke tester being delivered tomorrow to investigate further if there are any vacuum leaks in the intake. For context, I replaced the MAF about 6 months ago as I thought this could be the source. I did the oil cap test and idle changed when I took cap off, so that leads me to believe it is not crankcase vacuum leak. No smoke on startup and the AOS is relatively new (5ys, 10k mi on it). Put in a new fuel pump 4yrs ago (8k mi on it). SAI system does not appear to be an issue based on lack of codes and SAI readiness being good. I tightened the clamps around the intake boots last weekend thinking this could be the problem, but got the CEL again this week. I will check the air filter and throttle body this weekend for debris when I do the smoke test. Getting around to my question...I went to get smog check (California) when I had no CEL for quite some time, and all readiness monitors were good except for Catalyst. Before the CEL came on this week, I checked readiness monitors and again all were good except for catalyst. Are there any possible correlations between these codes and the catalyst not being ready? Does this lead you to suggest any other things that I should check? I have checked the O2 sensor voltages for all sensors. All look good except for possibly Bank 2 behind the cat...it basically follows the O2 sensor ahead of the cat. I ordered a new O2 sensor and will replace that this weekend to see if it helps. I am fearing that maybe that catalytic converter has gone bad due to the signal I am seeing, but I am not getting any specific catalytic converter codes and have not over the past two years of seeing this. Fingers crossed it's just the O2 sensor, but I changed that one about 6yrs ago (only 16k mi on it since then). Maybe irrelevant but I also get the occasional P0197 code for oil temperature sensor below limit. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks!
  13. I am far from an expert but I had a fuel pump go out and the tell tale sign for me was the pressure at the fuel rails. Easy to check at the schraeder valve on the rails. I had also gone through the process at the crankcase sensor but that turned out to be fine. You might also check out this thread.
  14. I would expect a mechanical problem in the transmission to issue a fault code. Bad solenoids or valve body, worn clutches, low oil, will all trip a fault code which will be seen in Durametric for sure. Wondering if it is the control module in the trunk? I have been told before that these can go bad and replacements are available through eBay for pretty cheap. Might be worth exploring? Someone here may also be able to offer you one to swap in temporarily to see if it resolves the problem.
  15. Is the transmission going into limp mode, flashing D and 4 on the display? What are you using to read codes?
  16. Thank you for the information! I checked today and no difference in deviation values, but I haven’t really driven it much. I am not sure if I have the access to adjust timing with the engine in the car but I’ll read up on this more soon. I’ve been running mobil1 5W-50 for many years now.
  17. I did not get a chance to read them yet and wanted to drive a bit first. Traveling this week so hopefully this weekend!
  18. Quick update. Replaced all three tensioners and oil/filter over the weekend. Pretty quick and straightforward. Homemade tool worked great for locking camshaft. Just needed to shave down thickness on the tip a bit to fit into the slot. Bank 2 tensioner was much easier than expected. No need to move the a/c to remove or install the new one. Just used a box wrench to loosen. New version has a hex recess which made install easy with the low profile hex ratchet on the torque wrench. Thoroughly analyzed the oil filter. No signs of chain guide fragments, so 🤞🏼on those. I have noticed much quieter engine on startup and improved performance. Maybe placebo but I’ll take it!
  19. As always, your rationale is strong JFP. Thank you for your wealth of knowledge. I am hopelessly optimistic that the hydraulic tensioners will bring the deviation values back close to normal and that maybe my wear pads are not too bad yet. Even though I know the likely outcome of the exercise. This is my daily for a short work commute and I know the engine-out work in my garage will put her out of service for a while. (Admittedly poor reasoning) My oil change intervals are less than 5k mi, I have owned since new, I have performed 99% of the work after warranty expired, and I do not hear any chain slap. I have also yet to see the wear pad particles in the oil filters. These are my likely unfounded optimistic reasons for hoping the wear pads are not yet in need of replacement (I think they call this false hope). But I have accepted the reality that the wear pads will need to be done at some point likely in the near future. I will replace the hydraulic tensioners only for now and pull the deviation values again periodically for the next few weeks to see if there is any positive effect. You said 4, I thought there were only 3?
  20. Hydraulic chain tensioners only for now. I understand that the wear pads are a common source for cam deviation, but this is my first step before I go down the path of replacing the pads. When I get to the point that I replace the wear pads, then I am planning for engine out. I do not yet have any cam deviation codes and my deviation values are less that 6...but creeping close (-5.34 / -5.80).
  21. Hi all, 2000 Boxster 2.7L Tiptronic, 117k miles. Geared up for an oil change and chain tensioner(s) replacement in the coming week. I would like to adjust timing while I'm in there (I have cam deviation readings at cold startup and after 30min drive, and have confirmed proper function of the variocam solenoids). I have not gotten under/in the car yet to determine if there is enough space to do this with the engine in the car as I am in the part-ordering stage. Just wanted to get your input on this so I can get all my ducks in row with respect to all parts I need to perform the work. Timing adjustment appears to be straightforward in itself. I just don't know if I will be able to see/access the camshaft sprocket bolts once the pump is removed from each bank. If access is achievable then I will go ahead and order the scavenge pump o-rings and new encapsulated bolts to perform the work. If this is an engine-out service, then, well, I'll just stick to the tensioners for now. Any input and guidance is greatly appreciated. On a side note, I have modeled and 3D printed a cam locking tool for the M96.22. It looked like everything out there for purchase was for the M96.23 and later models. I will let you know how it performs after I do the work, but if anyone is interested in the solid model or stl file just let me know. I have printed out a few extras just in case. Thanks for your help!
  22. Welcome to the group! Sounds like you got an amazing deal and all items are pretty typical for these cars, and you have come to the right place for assistance! 1 and 2. Sounds like you are on the right track. 3. You can get radio code on the thread dedicated to that here. 4. I just did mine. It is a bit tedious and messy but doable if you want to diy. Parts are very cheap - FCP, Pelican, ECS, pick your poison. 5. I suspect most will say infamous IMS but you can research and decide for yourself. 6. Not sure there! Best of luck!
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