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uladzislau

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About uladzislau

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  • Present cars
    Porsche Boxster '98
  1. Try 9616 Thank you very much! I'll try it out tonight! --vlad.
  2. I've got CDR-210 in my Boxster 986, model # BB 2282, serial # V5008370. Please help to unlock it, thank you!!!
  3. Guys, I have recently (yesterday :)) replaced my oil filler tube - the one that goes from the trunk to the engine and has a corrugated section. The new tube I've ordered is a bit different from the original one and I know that Porsche has changed the part number for both the filling tube and the filling pipe. The filling pipe is а plastic 90-degree angled elbow that's bolted to the engine block. Anyway, I was not able to fully push the new oil fill tube onto the original oil fill pipe. It is possible that the design has changed a bit and it's impossible now. It sits tight and I've put the original clamp on it, I don't think I have any air leaks. If I try to push harder I may break the oil fill pipe at the side of the engine and then it will hell of a lot of troubles to replace. So my question to you guys, if you have replaced the tube were you able to fully push it onto the original filling pipe? And if yes - how? Thanks!
  4. Guys, I just cleaned one of the O2 sensor (pre-cat, #1) connector using CNC electric cleaner because it was all in oil and dirt (I have the oil fill tube leak right above the connector) and now it gives me 0V readings :-). Knowledge comes with experience I guess, after I was not able to figure out what's going on I went searching and discovered Porsche's note in the service manual that tell for to use any liquid cleaner on the O2 sensor connector. After some more searching I've learned that the sensor actually "breaths" through the signal wires. I should have known better but I've leaned it hard way I guess . So, I've tried to heat the wiring up with a heat gun to evaporate the cleaner from the wiring if any. Also compressed air. Still 0V. For now I have left the connectors unhooked overnight in hopes that it will evaporate and the sensors will come back to normal. Now I have 2 questions: 1. Did I permanently killed the sensor or is there anything I can do? 2. Can I drive with a non-working O2 sensor or with a disconnected O2 sensors (pre-cat). I figure that disconnected sensor defaults to 0.45V which tells ECU that the air-fuel mix is fine while 0V tells that that the mix is super lean and will increase fuel ratio in the mix which can damage the cats at the end. All I need is to drop by part shop to pick up a new sensor Tuesday and I should be good to go again. This is in the case if I will be able to "resurrect" the sensor.
  5. Thanks! I'll try to get my hands on Durametric to check the values once more. Do you know if something special happens in Boxster engine around 40 mph speed? I never get this issue while driving at city speed limits and RPMs would always drop back to normal once I slow down below approx. 35 mph. Again the issue is erratic, it may occur or may not on high speeds but never on slow speeds. That's why I guess ECU opens up some valve after 40 mph and then fails to close... wild guess.
  6. Hi everyone! I have a '97 Boxster 2.5L and when driving and letting off the throttle (especially between shifts and 40+ mph) the RPMs stay hung up at whatever RPM I was cruising at and sometime would climb to around 3K. Its alot more noticeable with the AC is on. I've tried searching on all Porsche related forums but can't find anything. Throttle body was cleaned as well as the idle control valve. AOS is file as I did not find any oil in the throttle body. I was thinking that this might be a vacuum leak kind of doubt it as RPM drops back to normal in 3-5 seconds after the clutch pedal is pressed. Throttle cable is fine too - I've logged via OBD2 throttle position as I drive and I see that when the RPM get stuck throttle is closed but MAF continues to report some air flow. Next I have installed a new MAF, changes the engine air filter, and fixed a minor air leak in AOS tube. Did not help at all. Lastly I have replaced the ICV too (this was my best bet) - again no luck. At this point I'm out of ideas... Hope somebody would have any ideas about this issue. Thanks!!!
  7. Actually I re-did the fix with John L tip to use #31 O-rings. It was to stiff, my wife could not use it :-). So I removed the nylon spacers and switches to #31. Compared to #48 then are a bit smaller ID/OD. #48 is 5/8"OD x 3/8"ID x 1/8" wall and #31 is 9/16 in. O.D. x 5/16 in. I.D. x 1/8 in. Wall. So it just perfectly fits on internal rubber "tube" which get bolted to the wheel frame and does not fall off when you assemble the whole thing. Now the horn is back to normal feeling and you can actually press it with your fingers. Cost is $2, I've got the o-rings from OSH. You need long T30 screwdriver though. I've got one from Harbor Tools for like $10. $12 total cost compared to $87+tax+shipping for the new part and I've got to keep the screwdriver set :-).
  8. I've done this fix on my Boxster and it works just fine. Many thanks for the instructions and tips. Note that the O-ring number is actually #48, not #38. The horn is very stiff right now and I partially attribute it to the washers. I'll try to rebuild the horn without the washers and it's gonna ease it operation. But for now it's perfectly fine.
  9. It actually went away after a while. The car was sitting in a garage for a month. After a good drive the engine sound normal again. Hmmm.
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