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topmech0

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Everything posted by topmech0

  1. topmech0

    gt3 non start

    topmech0 replied to topmech0's topic in 996 GT3

    thanks loren. i found the problem. it was cam timing. the tools used were for early gt3 9661 with 9661/2 plates for inlet cams but as its 04 it should have been set with the gold 9661/3 inlet plates. reset it and all fine now. i was suprised it was that as the cam sensors threw faults up and would have thought even if timing out the sensors would still pick up signal from cams when turning. anyway all seems good now
  2. topmech0

    gt3 non start

    topmech0 posted a topic in 996 GT3

    hi all have 2004 996gt3 that friend just rebuilt engine. after initial start up all seemed fine at idle for about 10 mins. tried to rev slightly and holding back like air leak or fuel starvation. then it cut out. no mechanical noises etc. now just cranks with no efort to fire,not even splutter. on pst2 it comes up with three faults P0335 rpm input circuit p0344 phase sensor 1 p0349 phase sensor 2 so presumed crank sensor. swapped it for used one and put his in another car. his worked ok in other car. this gt3 still just cranks.looks like there was no spark. any ideas? we had to stop looking last night as it was getting late.
  3. topmech0
    the car has 54k miles on it. the fault codes are the usual of P0300 multiple misfire P0301 cyl 1 misfire P0302 cyl2 misfire P0303 cyl 3 misfire and if i leave it rough running for few minutes more it will then show in addition P0304 cyl 4 misfire P0306 cyl 6 misfire even when left for ages running badly and misfiring and spluttering i have never seen P0305 come up or any other fault related to the suspected variable cam timing solenoid on bank 1. when i compare the readings of bank 1 and two in actual values of cam adjustment it seems that values on bank 1 seem lazy hope this helps with your questions?
  4. topmech0
    i am glad i am not the only person who has paid porsche librarian and not had the goods!!! he went missing after initially saying it was customs fault.
  5. topmech0
    hi all,have 997 MY05 and have misfire codes and check engine light on. if i start car and drive its fine until i come to traffic and idle or low revs for a minute or so then starts to misfire and gets worse,sounding like bag of nails. if i then switch off and restart then problem gone until next time i hit traffic. had it on piwis and says misfire for cylinders 1,2,3 and if leave for longer misfiring then 4 and 6 appear. the problem also clears if i erase DME faults. i have changed all coils,spark plugs and aos but still have issue. also if i activate camshaft adjustment on piwis when running there seems to be no change in engine revs. any ideas before start looking deeper?
  6. topmech0
    sound good to me too!
  7. topmech0
    had this problem couple times but mainly on 2nd gear with 996 and always was the synchro assembley so unfortunately it will need a stripdown i expect.
  8. topmech0
    there is plenty things that could cause this but as it starts on cold start i would consider possibly the fuel metering head itself as had plenty that simply get gummed up or the metal strip inside has holes once stripped for overhauling. failing that i would check for air leaks on the intake!
  9. topmech0
    yes it is very easy to route the belt wrongly around idler,tensioner and deflection rollers and still have everything working.its not that its installed and driving pulleys wrong way its simply that the routing maybe wrong! i have used many contitech belts and only had problems with SOME 3.2 or 993 but never the polyrib type on 996,7,or boxster
  10. topmech0
    very similar to 996 except the tools needed are different in the fact 997 uses torx headed bolts for shields and coils and not 10mm bolts and 5mm headed allen bolts
  11. topmech0
    Loren: Thanks. The belt when cold is already stretched to the point where the tensioner is as far as it can go counterclockwise. It only squeals just after its started up. It makes me think that one of the driven devices (water pump?) seized up while it was sitting for 5 months and has some residual friction until it gets spinning. I hate to experiment with a $100 belt. I wouldn't hesitate to spend the money on the genuine belt for the next 60k miles, but if it stretches after 3 engine starts, it will get expensive fast. Thanks, Mike think its most likely the 'cheap' belt but double check you have the belt routed around pulleys correctly as it will fit in 2 or three ways but only works correctly in one!
  12. topmech0
    i also agree that in that area its more likely to be the AOS or at least the bellows tube that sits directly on the bottom of the unit
  13. topmech0
    i disagree! you should not sit with foot on clutch and in gear. that just wears out the clutch mechanisms like the pressure plate,disc and throw out bearing. i think the problem you are having is the first signs of clutch drag and hence when you remove foot from clutch and reapply then it slips in! when you release the pedal does it return fully? if not then you have air in the hydraullic system or a faulty cylinder.
  14. topmech0
    oh and nearly forgot. when adjusting the droplink lengths for sway bar it is absolutely vital that the front wheels are steered in the straight ahead position so the bar is not loaded!
  15. topmech0
    it will not matter which hole you use to set sway bar length as you should have both sides in same hole. by doing this it doesnt effect your droplinks length when stiffening or softening in future. the only thing you must watch is that the lengths are not too long that they bottom out on the bottom arm when on the ground. as for removing the bar you have to undo the small black boomerang bracket with the suspension bolt etc to lower the bar down. hope all this helps?
  16. topmech0
    my guess is the noise you refer to is the differential in the gearbox! some of the gt3 do this. but obviously check kug nuts and play in wheel bearings too first!
  17. topmech0
    sounds to me like you have two problems here; 1. the loss of 'guts' sounds like the MAF sensor or air leak? 2. is almost definately the igniton switch! change the switch with the VW/AUDI replacement and then do the MAF is my advice.
  18. topmech0
    if we are both thinking of the same hole (in the end of driveshaft/axle) then this is a breather hole and the grease is the grease for the cv joint. due to the use on the track it is getting hot and becomes thinner and being forced out the hole with temp and pressure. my advice would be once your done with a few track days simply peel back the rubber boots,both inner and outer and regrease the joints just to be safe and prolong their lives.
  19. topmech0
    Tx! That's quite helpful. So let's hope it is indeed just the push/pull cable. I'll get round to it this weekend (if the wife lets me ;) Tx, Hugo i would definately go for the cables. check that where the cables meet the holder bolted to side of transmission they are pushed in and secured fully. sounds as the push/pull cable is not seated correctly. i would not try adjusting unless you have the locking tool that holds the lever in neutral or you will end up chasing your tail. it should never need adjusting once set unless you change a cable.
  20. topmech0
    Just for clarification, the AOS was in fact the main issue. When pulled out the bottom bellows had practically been blown apart from the main body of the AOS. So thank you to everyone who accurately tagged the AOS as the problem to my incident on the freeway. hi there,good to hear it seems it was AOS and not something more serious. all the other little symptons you now have could be due to the fact when AOS fails it allows oil into intake(hence the smoke on freeway). you should remove and thoroughly clean the throttle body and if you can the intake manifolds of oil. eventually the residual oil still hanging around will clear after time. once you are sure all is clean then look with PST2,PIWIS or durametric and clear any remaining fault codes. give a long road test and recheck for new codes. good luck!
  21. topmech0
    also check the high pressure air hoses onto and from the turbo! i had one that seemed ok but one hose clamp had broken and was giving a leak that led to same warning lights!
  22. topmech0
    sorry i thought i said? i replaced the AOS anyway before last post. the vacuum never really changed much. there is a definate sucking and engine note changes. i also had a friend take his filler cap off and his does this also if it helps to clear any confusion on this board?
  23. topmech0
    Cleaning the MAF doesn't ALWAYS solve the problem from what everyone here and elsewhere has reported. If the MAF does really go bad, no amount of cleaning is going to fix the problem and it will need to be replaced thanks geoff. i am normally an advocate of replacing but wanted to see if the AOS replacement and cleaning TB works first. i only cleaned the MAF as two second job and didnt want to spend her money if MAF was ok. the CEL took month or so to show after clearing before so will wait and see. if it comes back on then sensor replacement will be first stop.
  24. topmech0
    i may be wrong but i thought it was only the C4 with the saddle tank that needed calibrating after battery disconnection. loren will know for sure though
  25. topmech0
    yes it sounds like the actual ignition switch needs replacing as this is the component that has the 'gates' and springs of the various key positions in it. some people think its the housing but without switch on the housing you can simply turn the key without any resistance. so change the switch first! Thnx for your reply if i replace the switch should i go to the dealer? coz in my country we only have one dealer which i have to ship my car. does the switch come with a new key or still use the old one?:) porsche dealer wont supply switch. they will only supply it with whole lock housing. you need to get it from audi or vw dealer as its same. if you take yours off you will see the part number. you dont get keys or anything. just switch! its about £10 here in uk.
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