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frenchy

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Everything posted by frenchy

  1. frenchy
    600$ for the 60K maintenance sounds cheap if this is done by the dealer. I called 3 of them (Claridge, Carlson and Steven's Creek) and they run between 1000 -1200$ ( depending if they replace the polyrib belt or not). 600$ might only be the "services" charge, oil, brake fluid, filters might be extra. The more usual problem on Boxster are: Rear Main Seal (aka RMS leak) Valve cover leak MAP sensor failure (it get dirty and the check engine come on) wheels bearing failure retractable top cable snap Collant reservoir leak Oil filler tube leak Most of these problem can be observed by monitoring your garage floor. Hopefully everything is going to be ok Jean
  2. frenchy
    It is probably inflation, but I called Carlson and they are asking 27$ for the 9204(oil filter socket)!
  3. frenchy
    I tried to remove the oil filter by hand, but was unsucessfull (almost cut myself..). Went to Kragen, got a "socket" that said fitted some Porches... well Murphy law stroked and it was not the right one... Any idiea witch socket I need (beside the Porche one that probably cost 90$ :-) ) Jean
  4. frenchy
    One of my friend has a Bue Tooth link to his sound system in his BMW. When his phone is within range of the car, the car sound system is used as a headset. The nice thing about that is you do not have to plug anything. you can even leave you mobile in your suit case in the trunk and it will still work (the car and the phone reconize eachother and link up automatically). He can even originate call. He presses a buton on his wheel and the sound system dial a phone number (voice activated) Very cool toy. II do not know if it is available as a 3rd part now, but I'm sure it will come soon as a feature on car radio/cd player (BMW buys that from a someone...). Jean
  5. frenchy
    Jeff would probably know if there are non "oily" cone filter. I think Madame NoFear has a EVO... Toolpant? Jean
  6. frenchy
    Let us know you new performance number if you run the dyno test again (find out if the modification paid off) BTW Make sure your cone filter is not a "oily" one (like K&N). The boxster (Bosh) MAF is very sensitive to oil residue. I know a few people that "busted" their MAF by using K&N. The oil on the filter get on the plate of the MAF, since these MAF rely on a termal difference between two point on the plate, that oil deposit (along with all the dust that will glue to the oil deposit) will screw up the MAF reading (and then the Engine check light goes on). Jean
  7. frenchy
    One trick used on my motorcycle (change the rear bearing last september) is to put the new bearing in the freezer for some time. The metal contract a little bit and it is easier to slide the bearing in the hub. Jean
  8. frenchy
    38K that sounds early for a clutch to wear off. The dealer had a chance to check my clutch 3 time now (everytime they change the RMS...). The last time was 2 weeks ago and they did not say that the car needed a new clutch, and mine is 50K old... I guess it depends how much the previous owner slipped to clutch. The clutch repalcement kit is not that expensive, the problem is that it takes a lot of time to do the job. You need to remove the muffler.... So I do not know if you can do it yourself without having a lift at home. Jeff should know... what is the diagnostic of Dr. Toolpant? Jean
  9. frenchy
    Where would you put a shim? From Jeff picture, I can't say I see aubvious bushings. This thing look almost like the cable/engine assembly for the retractable roof ! :-) Jean
  10. frenchy
    Unfortunately, my warranty just expired (11/27). So I guess I'm all by myself now. The window did not fall down. It still work fine. It is just the "automatic lowering" thing that does not work properly. Mark said that he had a similar problem, that a plastic bushing (white) was cracked. Do you know what he was refering to? If it is just a bushing, hopefully I do not need to replace the whole regulator ($250) to get a 0.25$ plastic thing... Jean
  11. frenchy
    I have some problem with my driver side window. When you open the door, usually the window goes down a little bit (2-3 mm). Since this morning my driver side window do not go down when I pull the door handle (interior or exterior) but I can still raise and lower the window (using the window control button). When I pull the door handle, I can hear the "microswitch' click, then I hear the motor that kind of try to lower the window, but nothing move... The problem is that the window "scrub" against the top frame when I open or close the door (actually it is kind of difficult to open/close now). I can deal with it by lowering the window (using my car key when I'm outside or the controll button when I'm inside) when I open the door but it is ennoying... Any idea what is the problem? How do you get access to the motor/sprokets that drive the window? Jean
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