judgejon

got the Durametics installed, and cleared the air bag light. hope it lasts.... I haven't checked the fault codes yet, 3 for supply voltage, and 46 for belt buckle driver. I still think it all has to do with taking out and putting in a cd with the key out and seatbelt not buckled.

ps: we've had 4 German cars and love them, but this situation does seem a bit too much.

any ideas re the fault codes?

Big thank you to Duram, and continuing thank you to Loren... jl

this is an open thank you to Duram of Durametrics for his knowledgeable help and patient assistance in helping me load the Durametrics software today.

thanks, help most appreciated....jl

Bummer, but glad its working out for cheaper than you thought.

I have a 2001 Boxster, & only one of the rear fog lights work. I replaced both bulbs, but the other one doesn't come on.

To confuse me further, I had a new Cayman in traffic with me recently, & only one of his worked also. Is this normal? Or was this coincidence?

on past P-cars with rear fog light there's only been one light attached. I've ssen them hanging off the left side of the rear bumper. my C4S has one light in the left cluster....so I'm thinking its a Porsche traditional approach. Cheers, ...

deal from Sunset sounds good.... Sonnen Porsche in Marin wanted $400 for the valet key...

thank you to Jeff Clark at Sunset....I think we found one.

How long was it in storage? Sometimes the clutch disc can seize to the input shaft and just driving the vehicle often cures the condition. I believe you have a clutch cable as the hydraulic clutch wasn't used until '86 I think.

sounds like a cable issue to me too. I think there are 2 helper springs on the clutch, might check there as well. good luck...

An airbag code will only show up on the Durametric software. a PST2 or PIWIS -- not on most generic readers.

right, the reader I used was at an open gas station, but it was worth a try. I was going to get a generic reader at Napa, but decided not to. I'll check with my local mechanic next week as he has all the right stuff, and probably buy the Durametric software cause it sure seems real helpful. thanks much to all....

I say just a coincidence....the durametric will find the codes and clear the airbag code.

Hello again. sure hope so.

(and continuing to fight on for old sc....)

i know for a fact that the panels HAVE been removed to upgrade speakers...

so, does water generally go in the door... and then drain somewhere?

i will remove the panels this weekend and have a look

thanks

Rod:

The rubber door seal at the base at the bottom of each window (when the window is up) does not make a completely waterproof seal, and some water migrates into the door cavity. The water that does get in there normally drains out onto the sides of the door sills.

When you remove the door panels, be sure to have the battery disconnected and the key out of the ignition so as to avoid getting an airbag light.

Regards, Maurice.

If you did get the airbag light, how would you clear it? trip to dealerville or mechanicland? thanks much....

I've checked the forums for air bag light issues and never saw anything like this one.

I ejected a cd and put in another with the key out of the ignition. when I started the car I had the air bag light come on.

checked on a code reader and there were no fault codes, so nothing to clear. this surely puzzled me.

sounds like a trip to my friendly mechanic for a computer hookup (he has durametric or similar software).

anyone heard of this problem? any other way to clear the light? thanks to all...

I'm Using Pennzoil 10/40.

The pressures indicated are for straight line (no cornering).

Admittedly I usually keep the oil level on the slightly lower end of the dip stick. I've added a quarter quart and the numbers have improved.

I've already bought the sender. Hopefully I'll be swapping it out soon.

Thanks for the input

yes. good thought re sender replacement. hopefully a relative cheap fix, and sounds like that could really be the problem. the key was the straight line rpm. I'd go to 20-50 for the SC. good luck. let us know if the sender swap is the solution.

Hello Gang,

I've got a 1983 SC Cab with 138,000 miles with the usual SC issues, oil leaks and oil burning (maybe 1.5-2 quarts per 1000 miles)

My question is regarding the oil pressure.

At Cold with thicker oil the revved Pressure is 5 or near 5, Idle is around 3.

When Warm the pressure is 3-4 revved and the idle pressure is 0-1.

Occasionally the needle will jump erratically. For instance at a constant rpm the oil pressure will be at 4 then jump spaztically to 5 then 4 to 5 then settle down at 4 again.

Some posts I've read says this is status quo for these vehicles. What are your thoughts about that? AND what is a good way to manually/externally check the oil pressure?

Thanks

ps: what oil are you using? maybe you need to use a different viscosity...?

Hello Gang,

I've got a 1983 SC Cab with 138,000 miles with the usual SC issues, oil leaks and oil burning (maybe 1.5-2 quarts per 1000 miles)

My question is regarding the oil pressure.

At Cold with thicker oil the revved Pressure is 5 or near 5, Idle is around 3.

When Warm the pressure is 3-4 revved and the idle pressure is 0-1.

Occasionally the needle will jump erratically. For instance at a constant rpm the oil pressure will be at 4 then jump spaztically to 5 then 4 to 5 then settle down at 4 again.

Some posts I've read says this is status quo for these vehicles. What are your thoughts about that? AND what is a good way to manually/externally check the oil pressure?

Thanks

I think there is a tool that goes on the oil filler for testing oil pressure, but not sure.

Does the problem happen when the engine is hot and you're going around a corner? If so, there is a traditional problems with older oil pumps that do not have a screen-like part on the pick up tube. on hot runs the intake on the older style pumps can be above the oil level in the sump. If that happens the car with either just stop or the oil pressure gauge will jump around.

If your just idling, hot or cold, I'd bet the problem is in the pump itself. shouldn't be as they are really realiable as far as I know. I replaced mine "just because" we were into the engine box anyway. It's been sitting on a bookshelf in my office for years, and very very few people have any idea that it's a Porsche engine heart.

Problem is that if your problem is the pump, you gotta take the engine apart completely to get to it, even taking the case apart, as far as I know. Loren would be the expert on this one I bet.... good luck.

I'm hoping someone can help me here. Every couple of weeks I turn on my CDR23 stereo with Bose premium package and hear no sound. The radio is on and shows the channel etc., except that there is no sound. Actually there is a very high pitched quiet sound, but no music etc. If I turn off the car for perhaps > 5 minutes the radio comes back.

Anybody got any ideas? It's like the systems doesn't 'boot' up properly and the car needs to be turned off fully to recover. A quick cycle of the ignition doesn't fix this, but > 5 mins does.

Oh, and this is a US 2004 996 C2 Cab

thanks,

Simon

Only happened once, and that was after I replaced the battery and alternator. Only the word Porsche came up on the radio. I turned off the ignition, turned it back on the radio must have rebooted. If your problem is consistent I agree that it's likely a problem with the amp. good luck....

I owned a new 1983 911 SC and sold it once I got married with only 5,000 miles. I always loved the car, but because of my job did not get a lot of driving time in it. I have owned two different 2000 911 Carerras, and now have a very beautiful Millenium Edition. Too beautiful to drive everyday, and have fun with, unfortunately. So I am back looking for my old 1983 to have some fun with. I am looking for a coupe. What should I look for, and what, more importantly should I watch out for?

and the back side....

I owned a new 1983 911 SC and sold it once I got married with only 5,000 miles. I always loved the car, but because of my job did not get a lot of driving time in it. I have owned two different 2000 911 Carerras, and now have a very beautiful Millenium Edition. Too beautiful to drive everyday, and have fun with, unfortunately. So I am back looking for my old 1983 to have some fun with. I am looking for a coupe. What should I look for, and what, more importantly should I watch out for?

I'm going to be selling my 1979 911sc. send me a PM if you're interested, and I'll tell you about the car. It's not officially listed on any sales lists just yet. Cheers.... Here's a pic ...

When you disconnect the battery, the windows have to re-learn their upper and lower travel limits. This is done by "teaching" the windows: pressing and holding the window switches until the windows are completely up or down and then vice versa. Basically, what you did. It's in the owner's manual somewhere. --Brian

right, been there, done that. sometimes you'll need to repeat the process a few times. also, the alarm will beep once if you set it and something, like the glovebox, is open.

reset per the manual BUT after opening either window it will come right back up rather than staying down untill door shut. 03-carrera coupe.

Any suggestions?

there was some good info on this at 6speed. basically, with key on, lower window, hold button for 3 secs, then raise and hold for 3 secs. I had to do this several times before the re-programming took hold. and, just flic the switch for a nanosecond, any longer and the auto feature is disabled. hope this helps.....

Personal Message.

of course. my chagrin. sorry.... jl

Your new engine should have all the latest parts.

Yes, all the latest parts...but does that include any parts or refinements to address the cylinder wall failure?

I am tracking that the only changes have been to address the RMS failure. Is this correct?

Chris

Chris, I'm a little discouraged by your experience, as I now use my 2003 as a daily driver. but, on the bright side, my '79 is going strong at 326K car miles, with about $11k in an engine rebuild at 160k miles. I know the sc's are probably the best Porsches ever, but I really hope to get some good mileage and reliability from the 2003. was your problem that required the new engine caused by the rms failure, or were there other related reasons? good luck to both of us...jl

ps: I'm selling the '79 if I can ever get it smogged.

Just realized there are two current threads running re battery/alternator issues. could this be an epidemic?

Does the noise change dependent on current draw? Lights and A/C off versus on.

long drive today, same sound with or without a/c, lights, etc. It must be generic to the generator I guess. It's a Bosch, purchased from Sonnen late March. is this an expected sound, or maybe my hearing aids are just too sensitive. thanks to all, jl

Easy enough to have the battery tested at your local auto parts store. I have seen batteries less than 1 year old go bad.

Oh man, this is almost exactly what happened to me. On Sunday the car was great on a long drive, on Monday the exact problem happened, low voltmeter, etc, and all the electronics went to hell. had to replace the alternator and battery. good luck with this, please advise what you find out....

You've got a PM...

Loren, I give up, what's a PM?

Ric, I had to replace the alternator and battery in my 2003 at about 14k miles. the car had not been driven much when I got it, and the battery had been previously replaced. No problems since, and I drive it pretty much every day. If I'm away for 2-3 days I start it up and drive it around a bit right after unpacking. good luck....