dcdrechsel

There are people who do rebuild them and do a professional job .I used Cabriolet Hydraulics in Florida and they work perfectly .In fact their website also covers removing and replacing .

Don't think that kit will solve anything .Take a close look at the cylinders -the ends are machine crimped and must be drilled out to get at the real seals .Plus the hose ends need to be modified and resealed .It's  not a easy diy project

It  probably needs  to be recalibrated  which would require the Durametric software ,the shop manual and an incredible amount of patience .It sounds like the  sensor (lever) that moves with the top is out of synch or is not attached correctly .The shop manual pictures pictures will help -too hard (for me) to explain .

Without a load  (Valves) the sprocket would probably turn and look normal .Simple fix is to have the sprocket  pinned .

I am doing an LS engine swap and need to determine the characteristics of the Bosch Speed signal Output .I believe that it is an AC voltage Sine Wave but need to know pulses per mile .

As an fyi the Vehicle Speed is needed for completing the emissions drive cycle test .

Any and all input will be appreciated .

Dave

I bought rebuilt ones and they were prefilled.

One more idea-is there a small blue wire on the alarm unit ?

I don't think connection point 39 is important at this juncture .The blue wire is being powered by something -abs-instrument cluster or psm .If all three are disconnected -visibly making sure the blue wire is in the connector - and disconnected from the alternator for measurement there should be 0 volts .The next test would be a test for shorting -ohm meter-blue wire at alternator and ground with blue wire disconnected at instrument cluster-abs and psm .

There is always a possibility that a previous owner modified something but unlikely .

I do not know exactly where 39 is but you should be able to find the blue wire from the instrument cluster and trace it back to the connector .It is probably buried in the wiring harness which could require removing some pieces .Question-does the charge indicator lamp work ?Illuminated with key on and engine off and then not illuminated with engine running .

Right hand drive  - weldpoint 39 looks like it is behind instrument cluster .

39 is a splice point on the wiring diagram .The wire from the alternator  branches (at 39) to the charge indicator light on dash and the abs/traction control .It is referred to as terminal 61 which is positive generator output .It appears that either the dash light or the abs unit is producing voltage  it shouldn't .Unless the wire has somehow shorted to a switchable positive voltage .

My first response was too brief .The wire I was referring to is the skinny one on the alternator .I am pretty sure that it is used as a input signal (terminal 61 ) for the abs/tcs  and should be o when disconnected from the alternator with the ignition key off . Not sure any of this helps but it is not a regulator wire .

If I have the right wire- that is connected at cp 39 to the psm-abs and dash light .Ashai's  suggestion of  scanning is a logical next step .

Electronic copy of the Porsche Workshop manuals.You might try the Porsche Librarian member on this site to help track down a source . .

The workshop manuals group 1 starting on page 294 covers ring placement and rod bolt torque steps .

I was going to start calling around to find an Autologic shop .The local BMW shop has Autologic but only for BMW's -he didn't know anyone who had a Porsche capability .I live in New Hope, PA so there must be one someplace .The dealer is not an option .

My fear is that if Durametric isn't working nothing else will either .Code is Code .

The other thing is that with the alarm and windows working correctly it could be a circuit in the unit itself .If I disconnect the battery and reconnect the lights are out until I open the door .That part works it's the lights out that doesn't .

Sure -in addition to the trouble codes the alarm unit can be scanned for the status of the individual micro switches.Example door closed -door contact micro switch open .Door open -door contact microswitch closed .Great capability except not working right .

Yes-Durametric -no codes .Unfortunately Durametric pulled the input signals code due to unreliable data which makes it nearly impossible to figure out if it's ; a bad relay , a bad input or a code issue ..

I pulled the bulbs after 1 hour (tried multiple sessions to make sure it wasn't a fluke ) . .Ignition switch was replaced last year -I haven't noticed any other flaky electrical issues to suggest the switch again .

I am stumped -the interior lights do not go off .The alarm unit is apparently functioning correctly -no beeps on locking .The windows drop when the doors are opened and raise when doors are closed -which suggests that the right signals are being sent to the alarm unit .

Looking at the wiring diagrams -the interior lights are controlled via the alarm unit and I have no clue on the logic used .There are no fault codes being triggered .Does anyone have any ideas ?

It's not the dome light switch -already checked that .

I don't have a 2004 wiring diagram but suspect it's the same as my 1999.There isn't a freestanding relay .The lights are controlled buy the alarm unit .I have the opposite problem my lights won't turn off when door is closed .So far I am stumped -no trouble codes and the alarm functions all work .This maybe one of those rare dealer only fixes .

Thank you

Wait-Loren could I have both grommet part numbers ? I will also order the other grommets .

Thanks Loren -I will reorder clips and see what happens ............

Yes I did -the issue is that the clip doesn't fit in the grommet .Further complication is that I do not have the old parts to compare to .(Previous owner did a field expedient which I want to fix ) If there never was a part change - maybe I just have the wrong clips .