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rrspikemarty

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Posts posted by rrspikemarty

  1. I was plagued by a low-pitch buzzing from the dash area. Only happened at v. low speeds when engine was at low revs (e.g. approaching a stop), but not present at idle. Seemed to be less noticable with lower tire pressure. Followed all the good pointers from folks on the board, here - CD tray, doors, etc. I could swear the noise was coming from within the cabin, somewhere near middle of the dash area . But these rattles are like a darned water leak in your roof. Turned out to be the carrying handle from the battery vibrating against the underside of the battery cover. Removed the handle.

    Happy Thanksgiving.

  2. Also, try ebay - i found quite a few when i was looking for some missing owner manuals/books for my 2003...

    You can download directly from Porsche.

    http://www.porsche.c...nanceintervals/

    Hello guys,

    I have boght a 2004 ' Carrera in USA. I have no service book to that car. Do you have one to sell or do you know how can I get it? Maybe you can at least scan one of your page for service and I will multiplay it + title site? Please. My @ - afulneczek@porscheclub.pl

    Regards,

    adam

  3. I'm curious if we are consider 2 seater carpool? Because GT3 doesn't have seats in the back and if the Carrera's back seats has been taken off.

    I live in California and I'm aware of the toll fee of $5 and $2.50 for carpool with Fastrack.

    I'm wondering if I take out the back seat will it be consider a 2 seater carpool? I've done this with my 350z which is a 2 seater.

    Try it and see what happens...

  4. True story: dropped the wife at the drug store and parked the p-car in the shade, pulling forward over the 'stopping block'. Spouse returned, got in the passenger seat, i reversed out and ripped the front air duct off the car. I guess this could be one more reason why spouses shouldn't ride in the p-car?

    Actually, this leads to a question. Since there was no scraping or impact when pulling in to park, my wife's weight in the passenger side (no comments please :rolleyes: ) obviously lowered the car enough for the air duct 's rear-facing lip to catch the parking block. It could have been as little as one millimeter. It would be interesting to know how much this car lowers/suspension travel at various loadings in the cab.

  5. I bought a Durametric for my 1999 996 C2. The problem I have is understanding what the actual values are? Where do I look to see what is "normal" after I check my actual values. I can't find anything on the Durametric cd or website. So far it's a bunch of numbers with no meaning. Any help?

    Here are the DME set points for your car.

    Howard

    c337cc - this is very good info to have on hand.. do you know where i can get the DME set points for my model-year 2003 996 C4S 6-sp ? rrspike

  6. Tough to know where to start...i strongly recommend you spend some serious time on all the usual p-car bulletin boards that have literally hundreds of posts containing good advice, anecdotes, tips, etc on the pluses and minuses of all the things you are asking about for all the models you are interested in. Then, I would obtain a handful of the best-regarded books on the subject of buying and owning a previously-owned p-car - there are many such books out there. Most would advise that you try to buy a car that has a full service record and maintenance records that suggests a car that has been well-maintained by owner(s) who cared. ..and before buying, have it thoroughly inspected to cover, at minimum, all the points included on the official Porsche certified pre-owned vehicle inspection report.

    Thanks for the reply. I've spent a lot of time in the past 2 weeks researching online the best I can and am not stopping that process anytime soon. I like the book recommendation, though. Do you have any particular books you'd recommend I pick up?

    I have inquired after a couple of cars and question #1 is always whether they have the full service/maintenance/repair records for the car, in large part because that not only shows that they cared for the car but also gives an indication of whether any of the known issues have been addressed (RMS and IMS bearing on the 996, for instance). I guess I will have to start googling around for the checklist of what gets inspected in a Porsche certified pre-owned vehicle. Thanks for the pointer on that, too.

    these books were very helpful for me (however, i'd already settled on a 996) :

    The Used 911 Story, Peter Zimmerman, RPM Auto Books

    , Compiled by RM Clarke, Brooklands Books

    Porsche 996 The Essential Companion, Adrian Streather, Veloce Publishing

    lots of others to choose from. I ended up with a very low mileage, 2003 C4S coupe 6-speed. I've never regretted the decision:lol:

    good luck with your search.

  7. This is my first post on the Renntech forum. If I step afoul in this post of any rules, please don't hesitate to let me know so I can adjust to the community as needed. My background comes from having loved a 1985 911 Carrera Targa as a teenager in the late 90's, courtesy of parents who had more love than good sense. I've spent the past decade missing that car, even while driving the 1996 Trans Am that I also had a blast with until an electrical fire took it from me 7 years ago. Since then, I've been a pickup man (thank heavens for my boxer-engined BMW motorcycle or I wouldn't even remember what performance feels like!)

    Presently, I have come into a modest stream of income and decided to look into what it would take to again ride in front of a flat-6 boxer engine. I have spent at least the past week shopping eBay and AutoTrader.com. Where I am being led to is that I can afford a 964 or 996 Carrera 4, or a 993 C2. (Or probably a poster of a 997 but not the actual car!) I live in snow (but fortunately, generally not salt) country and, while I of course wouldn't take a 911 out to bust through snow drifts, year-round drivability is something I would like to respect in my decision, such as by getting an all-wheel-drive coupe that can handle getting me down the road when there is some moisture on it. I should also note that the nearest Porsche dealership is 200 miles from where I sit.

    So, with that background in mind, what do I need to know about 964's, 993's, and 996's before I consider buying any of them? My main concerns are cost of regular maintenance and the likelihood and expense of major repairs. Are the air-cooled engines easier to work on and/or cheaper to keep running, or would the 996 be a better option? What does the maintenance schedule on these cars look like when you are around 100,000 miles and beyond?

    Thanks to any and all responders. Here's hoping that not long from now I am posting here as a fellow owner and not a mere neophyte enthusiast.

    Tough to know where to start...i strongly recommend you spend some serious time on all the usual p-car bulletin boards that have literally hundreds of posts containing good advice, anecdotes, tips, etc on the pluses and minuses of all the things you are asking about for all the models you are interested in. Then, I would obtain a handful of the best-regarded books on the subject of buying and owning a previously-owned p-car - there are many such books out there. Most would advise that you try to buy a car that has a full service record and maintenance records that suggests a car that has been well-maintained by owner(s) who cared. ..and before buying, have it thoroughly inspected to cover, at minimum, all the points included on the official Porsche certified pre-owned vehicle inspection report.

  8. i have one on my 2003 C4S. This is the manual for mine...

    K40 1000/2000 link

    Works great if you adjust appropriately. Although, i haven't been able to stop it from pinging (in 'city' mode) when i blow by the local 7-Eleven store - the unit is sensitive to a number of commercial motion detectors used for doorways.

    But it's definitely saved me more than a few times, especially when approaching those signs that display your speed in construction or safety zones, and - wouldn't you know it? - there's a highway patrol or local cop out of sight around the corner;)

    (Loren - hope posting the link isn't an infraction of the posting rules?)

  9. Greetings everyone! I've been lurking around the board for a little over a year now as I've waded through the tons of information out there on 996's. IMS, RMS, oil changes, tire size...you name it. About 2 weeks ago, I finally pulled the rip cord and purchased a 2003 996 C4S in arctic silver w/ boxster red interior and only ~20,000 miles on the clock.

    Took delivery in sunny California and proceeded to drive cross country home to Georgia. Truly outstanding trip. I've included a couple of pics from the road and here in ATL.

    Sorry on the headlight question. Problem solved!

    post-53954-1266417986.jpgpost-53954-1266417938.jpg

    post-53954-1266417920.jpgpost-53954-1266417958.jpg

    post-53954-1266417967.jpgpost-53954-1266417975.jpg

    post-53954-1266418370.jpg

    Oooooh yeah!!

    Great looking car! Had mine coming on 2 years now, and the honeymoon isn't over. Congrats!

  10. I'm looking at two 2001 966s; one is a 6-spd heavily optioned with only 13K miles, the other is an "average" optioned Carrera 4 Tiptronic with 23K miles. The Porsche dealer selling the 6-speed wants a huge premium for the low miles, the other is at a Cadillac dealer and priced pretty much where Edmunds is. Would I be facing any serious maintenance issues from vehicle age on either of these cars, even though both have very low miles? Should I be looking for any major items in the service records.

    You've come to the right place! I remember reading dozens of really good posts/opinions/admonishments from Renntech experts on this topic. Those threads helped me immensely when i was in the buying process. Have you tried a search on the web site?

    Good luck with the car search :renntech:

  11. To a lot of people, a good car has lots of room, is almost silent and gives a silky smooth ride. Basically, it's like you're sitting in your living room. It can be hard to imagine paying a lot of money for a small car that's relatively noisy and has a firm (if not harsh) ride. That's what cheap economy cars do.

    It has also become Very clear to me over the years that the experience of the driver & passenger are very different. You enjoy the control, performance and feedback from the car. The passenger has to sit through noise, bounces, changes in speed -- and can be relatively terrified by the way the driver is taking turns, going through traffic, etc.

    Consider trying to drive your car like a limousine when she is in it....as smoothly, quietly and as restrained as possible. Also, figure that she will never get the enjoyment out of a spirited drive that you do -- so keep recreational drives short & add food & rest stops along the way.

    (Now you know why married men are jealous of the wife - S/O who genuinely enjoys sharing the experience. It's relatively rare.)

    first time my wife got in the passenger seat, she asked "Where's the 'oh ****!' bar?". We'd barely left the driveway. Gotta admit, being a passenger in these cars isn't much fun. But, then again, I'm VERY rarely the passenger :D

  12. I took a look at a 2003 996 C4S at the local mercedes dealer this morning. The car only has 5600 miles on it, and is new to their lot. They haven;t even washed it since they got it from previous owner. Previous owner traded it in for a Benz. I hope to talk to the previous owner to understand his/her expereince.

    I went through the car in excrutiating detail, and am skilled enough from maintaining and fixing my 986S race car to feel confindent in assessing it as mechanically sound.

    I could only find two problems:

    * the black paint has light swirl marks from a buffer

    * there is a minor alignment issue - toe I believe, as it pulls slightly to the right - I am comfortable it is alignment and not something broken in the suspension

    With these two exceptions, the car is like it is brand new. It was pretty amazing.

    They are listing it at $45901.

    Edmunds, with the options added, is coming in for dealer retail in outstanding condition, $38386; and clean at $36175.

    Anyone have recent experience? Interested in opinions on how much you guys think it is worth.

    might be worth checking to make sure all numbers are in synch - engine number with chassis number and VIN, etc. Do the tyres show the wear pattern you would expect from steering that pulls to the right?

    Might also be good to know if the 5,600 miles are track miles, or "trips to the corner store". Get the read-out from the OBC for stage 1 and 2 ignitions. I would also zero in on the 'hours driven' reported by the OBC for this car. The low mileage may be a total red herring, if the hours driven is 60-65 or less, for example.

    If a bona fide car, sounds like a steal for the ebay current bid, not such a steal for the dealer listing price. If everything checks out on the car/previous owner opens up, you should be able to negotiate the price to close to Edmunds dealer. I would imagine the Merc dealer has no use for a 7 year-old p-car taking up space on his lot. Why would a dealer show a luxury car with a misaligned front-end and obvious to anyone who drives it? It's pretty clear they are looking to move it without putting in any investment to clean it up (e.g. detailing, alignment, etc), and are prepared to drop the price.

  13. i was reading the R&T article about the Lexus LFA, in it they describe how toyota actually pipes engine sounds into the car. why cant i do this? so i need to figure out where i would be able to put some penetrations in the chassis. this of course initially made me cringe, weakening the chassis will never be a good move. but i think, if i penetrated to the engine bay in a straight shot, just some small diameter pipe, then welded it into place, say down by the rear seat footwells, and added a high quality seal, i could control when i hear the sound. again, day dream, just chime in with thoughts. seriously though, i feel like everyone else gets a much better ear full than i do, i want to hear my baby sing!

    this one is more serious; ive been contemplating an exhaust system. instead of going to the PSE system or the hacked PSE, id like to maintain the quieter dba of the fully stock system, then incorporate some solenoids that open a dump pipe, see the link

    dump pipes

    this would go after the cat, and of course there would be 2 of them. im a little concerned about heat being dumped right there under the bumper, but on second thought, there is alot of heat generated down there and the bumper hasnt melted so i guess it cant be that bad so long as the exhaust is pointing fairly straight down. this raises my only other concern which is ground clearance, but i think that is a matter of orienting the pipe correctly. as well, a piece of pipe can be used to extend the exhaust away a little bit if need be, without hampering flow.

    please consider this carefully, i have a friend who tig welds offering to help me out, but i want to do some proper preliminary planning here. i plan on doing headers (hopefully those suncoast headers!) so the need to keep her quiet around town becomes a little more of a priority, hence the desire to use a solution such as i presented.

    Thanks for your thoughts!

    i would buy a CD with engine sounds on it. set the CD player to shuffle/random, and you will be a happy camper :huh:

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