timbo

when cars do a lot of short journeys or never get to warm up completely, condensation mixes with the oil and forms an emulsion, this then gets cooked when the car does a longer journey and gets really warm. Only an opinion but used to see this a lot inside rocker covers and pollution control systems.

to me that looks like the kind of sludge you sometimes find in the top of an engine, often caused by short journeys, its definately nor black!

Hi Steve, I had a Boxster with these symptoms exactly, start fine in the morning, warm up and then idle roughly, give it some throttle and seemed to run fine. On the odd occasion it wouldn't do it at all. I think it turned out to be the AOS, if I remember correctly you can effectively blank off the AOS, there is a tube coming from it which you can disconnect and then blank off both ends to test it, not sure if its the same on the 911. I know that this might not explain the codes though. Only other thing that might be worth a go would be to clean/disconnect the MAF, but again not sure how this could relate to codes. Hope you get it sorted.

Did you get this sorted?

All sorted now, shows what corrosion can do, thanks to Lauren for help with colour codes, went with what came off the car in the end.

Thanks Loren, since replacing the rear springs, which you kindly helped with checking the colour codes, I seem to have a rather high ride height. I can get at least 3 of my fat fingers between the wheel and the wheel arch. I'll try to check these values tomorrow, but seeing as you and OPC agree on the colour codes I'm wondering what could cause this. I haven't fitted the fronts yet but am expecting the same issue. 

Just hope I can locate the required measuring points. Do I assume C2 and C4 values are the same.

Hi everyone, does anyone have a C2 mk1 with standard springs and 18" wheels who could measure the distance from the ground to the inside of the highest part of the wheel arch, front and back. I'm guessing ROW models as i think US cars are higher because of the bumperettes.

8 hours ago, jchapura said:

I don't think there should be bolts in there. I happen to still have mine open for putting in coilovers. The aluminum plate is what the Bose subwoofer shelf sits on and there doesn't seem to be any bolts/studs coming from it (that would mate with the holes). As for the broken clip - I don't have that on my 2005 C2S as can be seen in my pic. It's been a few months since I took mine apart so I may need some help from you when I put it back together. ?

Thanks for that, there are in fact threaded holes below the plate but perhaps its for another application. Having just replaced what I thought were stock springs with stock springs I'm a little concerned the height on mine is higher than I'd like so I may have to modify the springs. 

Interesting your top bolts seem to have washers under them, mine don't.

So in a previous post I mentioned that I had two springs break while the car was parked up, today I replaced the rears. While in the car came across a split aluminium plate with two holes in it,should there be bolts in there? The other pic is what looks like the remains of a plastic fitting, (tracker?) anyone any idea what it was.

Thanks Loren for the speedy reply, was a little concerned they had sent the wrong ones as they are different to what is on the car already.

16 hours ago, jchapura said:

Very weird. Never heard a story like this. What changed since it was last driven; what allowed them to not break the last time it was driven? Some sort of accelerated fatigue...

well we've had some cold weather, but not that cold, -5 or so for a few days, but not driven.

Can any one help me with front and rear coil spring colour codes, should they be the same for front and back? the replacements I got from the OPC are different.

have you checked the cat brackets, just saying as i recently replaced the water pump and started the car without this bracket, considerable vibration, also noticed the bracket was cracked. after fitting the bracket no vibration.

how old is the battery?

Difficult to see in the overall picture of the engine, but whats the tandem oil pump corrosion like. Just had to replace mine.The rest looks normal to me.

is it a continuous squeaking? belt off will get you started in the right direction, mine sometimes squeaks when cold, and I had a Boxster once which squeaked when throttle applied which turned out to be a loose spark plug.

Yes thanks, I pm'd you back, not sure about the suffix, some seem to be 01, others 02 and others 04, does it mean they are different batches of production or modified versions.

http://alternativecarparts.co.uk/shop/997-porsche/porsche-997-turbo-aircraft-grade-aluminium-replacement-pump-cover/

what do you think ! opinions gratefully appreciated.

2 hours ago, Captain Lockheed said:

http://www.brauntonengineering.co.uk

 

Hi, thanks, but it looks like they replace the whole pump.

On 16/11/2016 at 7:11 PM, Captain Lockheed said:

The stainless covers galled (wear between sliding surfaces) and wore away. Which is why ninemeister stopped I believe.

Have you spoken to Brauntons?

There was a company doing a replacement not protective cover, in plastic, can't remember the details though, who does the ally one?

Interesting, what parts slide with the cover,, or didn't they manufacture them properly? they told me it was because people weren't fitting them correctly, difficult to see how that is possible. Yes ACP manufacture a billet aluminium one, my name is on the list for when the next batch come in. I heard that the plastic one were too expensive to manufacture due to the type of plastic required. I'll search Brauntons, thanks.

Captain, I'm in North Dorset near Blandford. Ninemeister used to do the stainless ones but have ceased production, I have found a company who do a billet aluminum one but are out of stock. NB its a replacement for the original cover I'm after, not a protective cover.Seems ridiculous that you need to buy a whole new pump just for a mild steel cover. What is stainless galling?

Hi everyone, my tandem pump has started to leak due to corrosion of the cover, just wondering if anyone has come up with a solution other than buying a new pump. Thanks.

no one ever taken these off! seems like there is nothing connecting the adjuster knob to the vents.

Hi all, just moved over from the Boxster forum, had 8 great years with the Boxster looking forward to similar with the 997. Obviously been going through the car with a fine tooth comb and looks to be good. I have one small issue with the center air vents, the adjuster will move the flaps up and down but there doesn't seem to be any connection to the flaps for lateral movement in both vents.Something is missing or broken. How easy is it to remove this air vent module to have a closer look at whats going on.