timbo

Update......having just removed a coil pack to investigate a misfire I discovered that they are all cracked, but the good news is that I also discovered that one of the plugs was loose....I now have a non ticking Boxster which I am obviously over the moon about. My only worry is that I have done a few hundred miles in the belief it was a noisy lifter is there any chance it could have damaged the threads?

It Does increase with RPM

Does any one have any opinions on additives which are on the market to solve the noisy lifter problem?

Yes, you can remove the tappets with the engine still in the car. Not trivial, but doable.

You say it doesn't change with RPM?

I would think if your tappets are ticking then they would increase in frequency,

I think I have one or more noisy tappets as well. Mine changes with rpms.

When my oil is fresh -- it usually goes away. I also tried Seafoam once and

it also quieted down the noise.

This is my daily driver and it has been doing it off and on for 20,000 miles.

I just have not been motivated enough to pull the valve covers off and search

for the noisy lifter.

M

No...mine increase in frequency and volume to a lesser extent with RPM too, quieter when cold.

Can the tappet/lifters be replaced with the engine in? or is it an engine out job.

Thanks Longray, would it be ok to take the electrical connection off the injector while running, would have thought no fuel issues then! I don't have a Durametric.

Update... I've just come back from my local Porsche specialist and he doesn't think its a lifter. He's not sure what it is, one suggestion was a noisy injector which seems feasible as the noise does not get louder with engine revs, what do people think? Would it throw a cel if I disconnected an injector while it was running? Has anyone any other ideas, the noise seems to be in time with the firing of a cylinder.

Hi, anyone know how to persuade one of my hydraulic lifters to stop taping? started about a couple of weeks ago, Its at its loudest when warm, its not a clatter just sounds as though the clearance is too big. I have heard that they can sometimes clear themselves. Its not affecting the performance of the car at all. Oil changed about 6 months ago. Car has done 70K., thanks.

Ok, I've had a closer look and the hood actually feels nicely tensioned, so I don't really want to play about with it too much. The rattle seems to emanate from the two plastic locating lugs, so as an experiment I've places a thin piece of rubber under the latch to see if it pulls the 'hood' closer to the windscreen frame. Strangely,if if roll the d/s window down a tad the rattle stops, but its definitely not the window itself that rattles when I go over rough roads, and there are plenty of those over here.

On an un related matter, took a look at the front control arms this morning after feeling a little slack when stabbing the brakes on at low speeds, and the center bush which holds the hub is knackered. I replaced the track control arms 2-3 years ago so I'm a little peed off. Was intending to replace the rear TCA's because the inner bushes squeak annoyingly, looks like I'have to replace all 4 now. I was wondering if its possible to replace the middle bush as the rest of the arm is only 2-3 years old and seems ok. Don't think its a job I can do, but do you know if it can be done?

Cheers, Timbo.

Will have ago this weekend, thanks again.

Many thanks Maurice, very comprehensive reply. I should have remembered that we don't all speak the same kind of English. Do I take it that there is no actual adjustment of the latch itself? If so then I presumably need to lengthen the push rods by unscrewing the ball joint. Perhaps I should have said that the noise I get is from the front of the hood/convertible top where it attaches to the windscreen frame.

Hi, does anyone know if there is any adjustment in the catch that pulls the hood towards the front screen? Rattling hood is starting to bug me, and it doesn't look as though the catch pulls the hood up tightly enough.

Many thanks for spending time to put this together, I can now see the need for a camber check afterwards, just got to find some one suitable to do it. Thanks again.

Many thanks, out of interest how is the camber adjusted?

Having replaced my front control arms about two years ago I want to do the rears. I was just wondering if the rear are in any way more of a problem to replace, don't want to start a job I may not be able to complete. Had to have the track adjusted last time, is this likely to be an issue with the rear tca's. Would be grateful for any advice.

Interesting, although mine has only done 70k.

Defo had mine pushed to the floor.

Hi all., recently while overtaking I've put the pedal to the floor and asked for a change down, none was forthcoming even though I felt a down shift should have been possible bearing in mind the revs, I'm not sure if the kick down switch is working. Normal gear changing apart from this, push the throttle down and it will down shift. Is there anything I could check....fuse etc?

I had a similar leak on my Boxster, it was the transmission seal, see if you can get some to smell, its different to engine oil.

Hi, I think if you sent your insurance company a picture of the damage they would see thats it unlikely you could have cause this damage by rear ending the other driver.

This might sound odd, but do you have any coolant loss? I say this because I once had a problem (non Boxter) where coolant leaked into a cylinder overnight, caused a misfire but once warm was ok, seems strange that the problem clears after 45 seconds,

How is enrichment achieved? this is what I would look at or what lauren says, have you tried changing a coil pack, maybe start it in the dark and look for any tracking.

Stargate 823, if its part 6 on the diagram thats your track control arm its the most likely candidate for any squeeks and creaks. You will need to remove the front wheel, you will also need a ball joint splitter. Its not too difficult, 1-2 hours depending on level of ability. I managed to do mine without removing the lower tray completely, just removed a couple of the fixings. The only thing you need to remember is to align a mark on the control arm with the chassis before tighttening the bolts which secure it, this entails raising the suspension with a trolley jack or lowering it onto a block, its so the car is at normal ride height before the bolts are tightened.

Hope this helps.

I personally like 5,000 mile oil changes, MAX...

-Wayne

Won't make any difference to the IMS though.

It all depends.

Do you worry about it? Do you prefer to spend ~$1.5k for preventative maintenance or ~$15k for a replacement engine if it should need one at some time in the future? Do you have access to someone who has done the replacement of the IMS before and who you'd trust?

My choice and your choice may be different.

I don't think there is any preventative maintenance for the IMS its a sealed bearing lubricated by its own grease not engine oil.

+1, its a small percentage that suffer this, can't hurt to touch some wood though :drive: