aracerx

supp air fan is inoperative and giving chck eng lite. cannot operate blower via tester. cannot find where relay panel 2 is located on cayman

UH OH........did I JUST DO THAT??? YES, i did ACTUALLY

thanks in advance

other than a possible change in engine sound.....which already creates a nice audible tone..........there is nothing to gain.......nada

cannot find this info anywhere in poses

ANYONE HAVING SAME ISSUE?

Hi aracerx.... You may well have low fuel pressure and it may just be a coincidence to your plug/coil pak work. In my own '04 GT3 I had similar poor running in the minutes before my fuel pump quit. The original pumps in '04 used a variety of hoses on the in-tank pump. Remember that our cars are based on the C4 unibody for it's additional stiffness (as were the Cups cars). The C4 body requires a saddle shaped fuel tank and so the single pump has to have "jet pumps" to lift fuel out of the two low points in the tank (the pump is in a well right below the dome cover). The resulting plumbing is confusing. The pump has one short piece of hose that takes a tight turn in about two inches. It has been known to split at the tight turn. The result is that fuel leaks there reducing line pressure and eventually over working the pump to failure. Have a look.

Let us know what you find.

thanks for help.........too much of a coincidence though.......I broke something.......trying to locate fuel pressue regulator as maybe vac hose came off or broken

WELL, just changed plugs and coil pacs to discover 04 GT3 is now running very poorly. reinstalled parts with same results! changed oil at same time along with removing the front cover for debris removal. NO CODES SHOWING EITHER. Checked fuel pressure as when spraying carb cleaner into throttle valve, engine perked up and sounded good, albeit for a few seconds. Looks as if fuel pressure is low, possible 10lbs? any thoughts always appreciated-thanks

ran fine before-hah

Has anyone had any luck getting rid of these 2 codes. It's a 99 Boxster 5-speed with a new oil seperator. Any ideas? Thanks

what was the outcome of this problem, we have the same exact code problem-thanks Mark

I can find no information on the updated shaft for this 04 C4S, ANY HELP APPRECIATED-M

Hopefully someone had this same issue before. I have a '99 996 cabriolet. It has been running absolutely fine for the past 5 years. Never even had any problem. Did a 60k service 6 months ago (spark plugs, oil & transmission oil change, etc.) 2 weeks ago, I drove around for about 20 mins & parked. The car wouldn't start (cranks just fine but seems like not getting fuel) I waited for about 5 minutes & it starts again. Last week, while at a stop lights the car stalled. I notice the engine temp. is around 200F+. Now, if I let the car runs until temp. is over 200F, it would stall again

Anyone has any idea? Thank you in advance...

am having the exact same problem with 99 996 as I write this...........I notice no response from u for quite a while??

cannot seem to find any info on this system and would like to know how it operates.....any chances of that-I have DTC 401 and 402 indicating poor flow...cannot get it by NYS emmisions. NO check engine lite, just will not set monitor for secondary air injection. THANKS

same as on CGT.............instead of expensive "torque multiplier", you may simply use a 3/4 torque wrench...I have (weird) several available, if needed.

Get a hold of your nearest Snap-On or Stahlwille dealer - they will help you.

is there ANY quality alternative muffling changes that will make the sound more throatier? this is a '10 997 C4S-THANKS FOR ADVISE.

I am looking to purchase the rear package shelf for cars equiped with factory rs rollcage in black.....can someone give me the part number?-thanks mark-I did see it on the forum somewhere yet I can't seem to search it?

We seal Porsche flats on regular basis............If tire has been driven with low pressure or flat for any distance than it is junk.

We use an awesome old product that can be used in slicks also......when desperate though!

Found the directions & video. Looks like an easy 2 - 6 beer project.

if interested I make a stainless (handsome) grille insert for the front air intakes on GT3 and RS

Loren, Thanks for the reply.

I am looking for the part number for the factory rear roll bar that is in the 2010 GT3 RS, in red.

Any idea where it can be purchased.

Rich

I too am looking to purchase one for a 08 GT3RS FOR customer....dealer said nla? just yesterday and bought one from them 8 months ago?? any ideas of where to go for one?? the rear section of the factory cage is what we usually want to use in a RS....thanks Mark

Booo..scary.... Be careful..If they don't upgrade the DME be very skeptical. And anyone that Roock deals with is to be dismissed....

the upgrade to 7.8 has been my primary choice....it sucks though.....I will likely spend a tremendous amount of time and effort on the wiring conversion. After so many years of this issue, I thought this one time I could get even a small break by someone posting their "proper" conversion. I sure would pay for the experience too, since time is (afterall) money.

It may just be a pipedream though, as all my life I had to do these "conversion" thingys and it DOES SUCK.

I will not perform this job without doing it the proper way.......not sure though how much of a perfomance issue the dynamic cam timing would effect........If all.........I guess I'm up the creek and have to do it, sadly, I may only do this a few times more and the effort sort of doesn't equal the initial time involved in getting wiring acclimated. thanks for your insite, thanks to Porsche for their f++k up.

Some major challenges with this conversion. Different DME's, and the VarioCam vs. VarioCamPlus issue. It has been done. PhilipJ tried it with

Roock and ended up with horror stories, sold the car and bought a 997. Doo some searches here and on 6 speed and Rennlist and you will find lots of discussions.

It is definitely not just a bolt in project!

My "obvious" direction in this "project" lie within have lower end rebuilt/poss. increase in diplacement..or swapping everything over to a later engine with lower mileage or poss. new factory rebuilt. I am learning on how much of a performance issue the vario cam/lift if left without hydraulic operation? rest of job is simple swap to me? This should be an interesting job.-M

Some major challenges with this conversion. Different DME's, and the VarioCam vs. VarioCamPlus issue. It has been done. PhilipJ tried it with

Roock and ended up with horror stories, sold the car and bought a 997. Doo some searches here and on 6 speed and Rennlist and you will find lots of discussions.

It is definitely not just a bolt in project!

are there very many documented swaps to make this easier to understand. Is it workable to use the 3.4 wiring to ease the wiring issue and use the 3.4 intake for the throttle?

There are all sorts of pros and cons on this technique. I do it...as does a number of my friends, and my indy, and some of the racing guys...but some folks will decry the dangers of doing it this way. I use a short piece of 2 X 4 that I have a saw kerf down the middle that fits over the place where the casing comes together with an edge. There are a number of threads on this subject on Rennlist and maybe even here that show you pictures of where to put it...some guys put it in the wrong place and end up breaking something, but once you're centered on the right contact point, it's easy and it gets both back wheels up off the ground at the same time and allows you to slip in the jackstands.

a big issue is the liquid filled motor mounts....they sometimes give up when jacking up the back of the car via the drivetrain.

bingo. Replace your starter. Same issue a while back. It will last a while like this and eventually die.

HOLD ON THERE PARDNER!

owner said the car "ran" poorly on hot start-up...that has absolutely nada to do with the starter.