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johnwink

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Everything posted by johnwink

  1. Sorry for the long delay... I've been off the board since my move to Seattle. It looks like you went through the same mental process as my with this replacement. My new speedo face goes up to 175 MPH. What I find odd is that there is a cruise control indicator light in the middle of the speedo, and another one in the idiot-light bar at the bottom (it's the last one on the right). I wonder why they'd put two of them, only one working. And I wonder if there's any way to set it to use the other one. I didn't find an obvious answer while working on the gauge cluster. Is this something that could be reprogrammed? Thanks for your help! John Wink 2001 Boxster 2.7 Frankenstein gauge face :-)
  2. Unfortunately, Becker only seems to have an aux cable for the CR/CDR-220 (part BNA - 1319 - 116). I have this kit and it works really well. :-) http://www.beckerautosound.com/parts/cable_part_number.html You could give them a call at 201-961-1399 and ask. They were really helpful when I called to order my kit. Take care, John Wink
  3. I do have another question... On the row of idiot lights along the bottom, there is a cruise control light, it's the last one on the right. This isn't used on my car, as I have a cruise control light in the middle of the speedometer. Problem is, FVD sent me a speedometer face that doesn't have the cutout for the cruise control light. Is it possible to reprogram the beast so that it uses the cruise control light in the row of idiot lights instead? Thanks! John Wink 2001 Boxster 986 (now with MPH gauges!)
  4. Never mind... :-) The black rings are only there to hold the gauge faces flush, so I broke them off and used a drop of glue under the new gauge face. Thanks! John
  5. Hi crew, I'm in the process of changing my gauge faces on my 2001 Boxster from km/h to mph in preparation for my move to Seattle next week. I've been following the great instructions at: http://www.iwantaporsche.net/cluster.htm I've also been taking fresh pictures to update the procedure for a 2001- 986. But I have a problem. Once I got everything open, I discovered little black plastic rings around the center of each gauge where the needle goes. I've attached a photo. I can't get these out, and I can't get the new faces in with them in place Any brilliant ideas? Thanks! John
  6. Here is the end of this sordid tale... The delearship observed no smoke on startup. They pressure-tested the cooling system and found no leak. I don't think they inspected the AOS. The oil leak was the RMS. They replaced the RMS and ISS with the new-style parts. While they had it apart, they called to tell my the dual-mass flywheel was on it's way out. I had them replace it ($1234 for the part, no additional labour). I kept the old part for posterity... So far I've driven this thing approximately 5000 km. I've spent approximately $5000 in repairs. Hopefully the experience will get better from here on in. Thanks for all your advice! John Wink 2001 Boxster 2.7 New RMS New ISS New DMF Empty bank account
  7. I am almost certain that those are the specs for my 2001 Boxster's 17" wheels, and I use 16" wheels off of a 97 Boxster for my snow tires. So my expectation is that they should fit just fine. If anyone has the Boxster electronic service manual handy, the specs are in there so we could confirm for azzor0. (Sorry, mine is at home...)
  8. Two weeks after dropping the car off, I finally got an assessment. 1.) They haven't seen any smoke at startup. Maybe the car was just having a bad day (or "it's a boxer engine" syndrome). 2.) The oil leak is the RMS, might as well do the IMS while they're in there. Here was my conversation with the service advisor: John: How bad it the leak? Advisor: Not that bad, really. Unless you're going to have the car inspected, it's no rush. John: I'm getting the car inspected in a month. Advisor: Uh-oh. So I'm down CAD$1475 for the two seals, which sounds in-line with what others have been saying on the forums. He'll check out the clutch while he's in there, but apparently the clutch kit is in the CAD$1000 range, so unless it's down to the rivets, no f---ing way. So, my tally to date for eight months of Boxster ownership: Regular maintenace including replacing a busted trailing link: $1800 16" Porsche rims (thanks again, Fred!) and snow tires: $1200 CAA membership to get dead car towed to the dealership: $200 Troubleshooting and a new battery (how did I miss that one??): $500 New RMS and ISS to correct an insignificant oil leak: $1475 Joy of driving a Porsche: Priceless. Or so I am trying to convince myself. <_<
  9. I once got just under 700 km (what's that, 450 miles?) on a tank of 93 octane. It was just after I got the car, so fresh oil change, tire pressures perfect, and yes, western Ontario to Montreal is technically down-hill all the way. :-) I can barely squeek 400 km out of the thing in the city with snow tires. Not so hot. Glad the summer wheels are back on. Cheers! P.S. And someone was bashing the Saabs... I got 1000 km out of a full tank of 93 octane on my 99 9-3, same "downhill" trip...
  10. Just a little counterpoint to all the pro-PSM comments... I don't have PSM on my 2001 2.7, and frankly I'm glad I don't. My last mid-engine was an 85 MR-2, with power SFA. So I'm used to it. Not having PSM forces me to pay more attention when I'm driving, and not get into trouble in the first place. I'm also a motorcyclist, so I definitely drive with the "careful and defensive is better" philosophy. Being male and hence foolish, I think I'd drive more agressively if I had PSM. Hey, somebody has to disagree! :P John Wink
  11. As a side note to whether Porsche wheels would get stolen... From my research (trying to buy rims for my winter tires), Porsche wheels pretty much only fit on Porsches anyways. I actually had to buy a second-hand set of 16" Porsche rims (Thanks Fred!) for my snow tires. So any thief with minimal knowledge wouldn't bother. Cheers!
  12. Hi folks, A question and and update... Question: I'm looking at the Porsche workshop manual for the Boxster, it it seems to indicate that the AOS (actually two of them) are under the oil pan. However everything we've discussed here indicates that it (singular!) is on top of the engine. Can anyone unfog my brain on this? Update: Dealership still has my car, going on two weeks. They've promised a diagnosis by Monday. Aside from missing two weeks of top-down weather, I'm really a little worried... I have to make sure this thing in running and not dripping so I can stick it on a transporter to Seattle in a couple of weeks. The stress is killing me. I know, I know... If you can't take the heat, buy a Toyota. :-) Thanks, John
  13. A quick update... It being "that time of the year" in Montreal when those who don't drive their Porsches through the winter bring them out and have their service done, I'm going to have to wait a week or so before the dealer will be able to look at my car. Less smoke yesterday when I started it up to drive it to the dealership, though that's probably irrelevant. I'll keep you posted. In the mean time, two wheels for me...
  14. I don't know about the ACC being dead, but twice now I've been in the situation where my dash would light up (and headlights, and the roof worked fine) but the engine wouldn't crank. It turns out that my huge size-13 boots keep catching one of the wires to the clutch interlock switch. If the wire becomes disconnected, the car will think you're not pushing the clutch and hence won't turn over. (I'm assuming you have a manual transmission.) It's a little brown wire, easily accessible under the dash. Just follow the clutch pedal up and you'll see it. Let me know if you need a photo. Cheers! John Wink
  15. Hey Fred, always great to hear from you! Thanks for the advice and the great mark-up on this photo. It makes it really easy to understand things! (I guess I owe you a beer too!)
  16. Sounds like I should take care of the AOS (assuming that's the smoke issue, which it probably is...) and leave the rest alone for now. Thanks for the tip on the RMS not leaking when the car is stationary. If it IS the RMS, it's such a slow leak that driving it on and off of the transporter won't cause it to leak. I'm moving to Redmond (or somewhere near there) some time in June. I can buy you lunch or a drink to thank you for all the advice. :)
  17. Hi again, Thanks for the wealth of advice. This is fantastic! I had another look at it. Not an easy thing to do... I live in an apartment building, so I don't have access to good tools or a lift. Essentially all I could do is shove a digital camera under the car at various spots and snap pictures. They're not great, and way too close range, but it looks as if the oil leak is only in the area shown in this version of your picture (red-circled area). Other parts that I got pictures of are pretty clean. I'd love to have a crack at this myself (I used to work on my cars), but unfortunately I'm going to have to leave this one to the dealer. Lack of tools aside, I'm planning on shipping this car the to U.S. in a few weeks (I'm moving to Washington state from Montreal), and the car will be refused if there is any evidence of a fluid leak. So sadly this is not a good time for me to try and learn about my new car. :( Given that this'll be a dealer thing... I trust my dealer. Should I ask him to change the RMS and IMS since he's already got it open? That way I'll have the RMS, IMS, and AOS all fresh and new. For sure I'll have him check the tubes at the same time, thanks for the tip. I have 30K miles (48K kms) on the car and the clutch still feels good, so I'd rather let that go unless it's contaminated (which I doubt, or I'd probably feel it). Your thoughts? I'll call the dealer in the morning. From the sounds of it, I should be able to drive the car there without too much trouble. Thanks again! John Wink Here is the mark-up:
  18. Thanks for the great description and pictures! The last photo (of the IMS or RMS problem) is where I was looking. On the right-hand side of your photo you have the square plate that I mentioned, with a bolt in the middle and a bit of oil, just like mine, so I'll assume that's nothing. :-) The oil in your photo from the RMS leak on the left is approximately where I'm seeing oil, but I have a lot less of it than in the photo. So maybe I have a smaller leak. Or if I'm really REALLY lucky then the oil may be travelling down the cross-member from the AOS or somewhere else like you described. I need to get a better look at the thing. My gut tells I've probably blown my AOS and RMS in the same week. I'll let you know the grizzly conclusion... Thanks again! John Wink
  19. Hi there, I am new to the forum, and mightily impressed with the great information here. Many thanks to the great people that make this happen! Hopefully some day I'll be able to contribute. I've only had the car for a couple of months, and haven't had a real chance to get under it yet, so please forgive my uninformed descriptions here. I have two problems. As of this morning, I am experiencing the white smoke at startup that is symptomatic of a faulty air/oil seperator. No smoke yesterday, so the problem came on very quickly. I'll call the dealership on Monday for that. At the same time that I was checking that out, I noticed some oil spots under the car. The oil spots are not huge, but big enough to worry me. The largest is perhaps two inches in diameter, and there are three of four smaller ones. I take the car out perhaps 2-3 times a week, so I suspect this leak started around 10-14 days ago. They are under the engine, a little left of center. There is a square plate of metal under the car with a bolt in the middle, looks like it could be an oil drain plug? There is some oil around that. However I think there is some oil futher back as well, not far from what may be the oil filter. I'm hoping that my air/oil seperator has been dying over the last two weeks and leaking oil and that is all. But I have a sinking feeling that that's a naive idea. The electronic readout when I turn on the key shows plenty of oil. I will check the dipstick to be sure before driving to the dealership (12 miles). My car is a 2001 Boxster with 30K miles on it. Does anyone have any thoughts on what this could be? Does an air/oil seperator ever leak under the car, or is smoke on startup the only symptom? Any help provided will be hugely appreciated. Many thanks! John Wink Montreal, Canada
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